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So I got into the service menu -- now which setting controls the ABSL?
...and if just one person would kindly spell out the four words that A. B. S. L. stands for, I for one would be most grateful.
 

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...and if just one person would kindly spell out the four words that A. B. S. L. stands for, I for one would be most grateful.


Automatic brightness static limiter. So if a static image is maintained for a length of time, the screen will begin to dim. Most annoying for people attempting calibration


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Automatic brightness static limiter. So if a static image is maintained for a length of time, the screen will begin to dim. Most annoying for people attempting calibration
Fantastic, thanks. I understand its function and could guess most, but not the "S" word :)
 

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Here is a video of LG Autocal HDR10 failing at/below 15%. Take a look at the odd patterns generated starting at 00:35. Additionally, the 3D LUT calibration totally messes up the colors, as can be seen during the sweeps in the end of the video. The video is a timelapse (speed 10x). The inset shows what is on my TV.


My settings can be seen in the screenshots below. I use the Videoforge HDMI with HDFury Linker to switch the C8 into HDR10/BT2020 mode. My meter is an i1Display. I think this is the same issue, Pwondrak32 described. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Robert
 

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^ There is clear persistence during the full gray patterns.
Something better needs to be done during the blanking. Something like the snow when tuning a black channel would probably work better.


- Rich
 

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^ There is clear persistence during the full gray patterns.
Something better needs to be done during the blanking. Something like the snow when tuning a black channel would probably work better.


- Rich
Definitely. These are the pattern insertion settings recommended by Calman, but based on the posts here, I set the level to 20%.

Robert
 

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Here is a video of LG Autocal HDR10 failing at/below 15%. Take a look at the odd patterns generated starting at 00:35. Additionally, the 3D LUT calibration totally messes up the colors, as can be seen during the sweeps in the end of the video. The video is a timelapse (speed 10x). The inset shows what is on my TV.

https://youtu.be/BI4wdjOo1qo

My settings can be seen in the screenshots below. I use the Videoforge HDMI with HDFury Linker to switch the C8 into HDR10/BT2020 mode. My meter is an i1Display. I think this is the same issue, Pwondrak32 described. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Robert
I have two questions: 1-why did you choose display type "Oled"? Are you sure that display are a truly WRGB Oled display? On CalMAN Oled display it was Oled RGB in old version I don't know on the new release. But anyway it doesn't matter if you use an spectrophotometer correction matrix for HDR and DV you should use a "RAW" Display type.

2-The frame insertion in HDR mode I wouldn't use a Full 20%... Try with a black 0%.

3-Most important thing meter delay 1,5 seconds for HDR mode I think also is too much probably you have to decrease that to min. 0,75.

Give it a try and let us Know how it goes :)
 

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^^ Tyler suggested to use LED LCD for WOLED LG in Calman.
 

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I have two questions: 1-why did you choose display type "Oled"? Are you sure that display are a truly WRGB Oled display? On CalMAN Oled display it was Oled RGB in old version I don't know on the new release. But anyway it doesn't matter if you use an spectrophotometer correction matrix for HDR and DV you should use a "RAW" Display type.

2-The frame insertion in HDR mode I wouldn't use a Full 20%... Try with a black 0%.

3-Most important thing meter delay 1,5 seconds for HDR mode I think also is too much probably you have to decrease that to min. 0,75.

Give it a try and let us Know how it goes :)
Tyler recommended 20% full field pattern insertion recently.

Where does your suggestion for using 0% come from?
 

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Tyler recommended 20% full field pattern insertion recently.



Where does your suggestion for using 0% come from?


From many many tests he others and I did on the 2016 models. We tested many different pattern Inseration values and 0% is the best method to cool down the panel.
 
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From many many tests he others and I did on the 2016 models. We tested many different pattern Inseration values and 0% is the best method to cool down the panel.
I have no doubt 0% will cool the display more quickly.

What does it do for the image retention induced by the window patterns when calibrating HDR and DV?
 

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I have two questions: 1-why did you choose display type "Oled"? Are you sure that display are a truly WRGB Oled display? On CalMAN Oled display it was Oled RGB in old version I don't know on the new release. But anyway it doesn't matter if you use an spectrophotometer correction matrix for HDR and DV you should use a "RAW" Display type.

2-The frame insertion in HDR mode I wouldn't use a Full 20%... Try with a black 0%.

3-Most important thing meter delay 1,5 seconds for HDR mode I think also is too much probably you have to decrease that to min. 0,75.

Give it a try and let us Know how it goes :)
^^ Tyler suggested to use LED LCD for WOLED LG in Calman.
Thanks for the input. I have my meter profiled with a i1Pro, but I will give the LED LCD Display type a try. With the meter beeing profiled, does the display type setting make any difference at all?

Regarding the frame insertion and delay settings, I will give it a try this evening here and report back. Thanks, Robert
 
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From many many tests he others and I did on the 2016 models. We tested many different pattern Inseration values and 0% is the best method to cool down the panel.
I have no doubt 0% will cool the display more quickly.

What does it do for the image retention induced by the window patterns when calibrating HDR and DV?
It dipend of the single display itself, like my set, neither in HDR mode during calibration reading Grayscale and colorchecker it doesn't happen. But I saw others displays with image retention issues, only reading a simple grayscale 21 points in SDR mode, really weird by the way.

Thanks for the input. I have my meter profiled with a i1Pro, but I will give the LED LCD Display type a try. With the meter beeing profiled, does the display type setting make any difference at all?

Regarding the frame insertion and delay settings, I will give it a try this evening here and report back. Thanks, Robert
If you use an i1pro2 consider to do two differents profiles corrections, both at exactly the same point of the readings.

One contact mode other one distance mode in a very dark room (obviously) spectrometer at 17cm then colorimeter (i1D3) at 13cm or less... Consider this only like a test for try find out best compromisse solutions.

@Ips: My friend @BlackJoker answered for me :) but anyway I gave @robbeh81 just an advice and nothing more I'm not a professional calibrator I just trust to what I've been trying many times on my set.

LCD LED has a different spectral light you don't need to use it if you have an spectrophotometer already, at least that is what I understood too using CalMAN not many years until now.
 
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Absolutely correct if you have a 1pro2 for profiling it's not necessary to use the LED profile which makes no sense. I don't own a id3 anymore but the XYZ RAW profile fits best use this for profile if it's available in the latest CalMAN versions as a starting point for your profiling.
 
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Calibration display is not a simple thing, there's many variabilities and you will miss the "target reference" because to me it means only this. If so if I have a colorimeter like a i1D3 this one it need to be "corrected" by a reference spectrophotometer if is possible, on the interested display. Also a Klein-10A by the way. Just I'm saying all colorimeters has errors and all of them are very different, mostly with less differences others with big differences and until you try to see this differences, only with a reference spectro will show this.

If you have a friend with a spectrophotometer you can ask him for it or someone else to send your i1D3 to be corrected in a C8 Oled display. It Will be more useful than using a generic profile display.

P.S: By the way also the spectro's need to be retified over a year more or less, they soffer changes over time and it can be insignificant or not but this is also "part of the game" and it can't be ignored.
 

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Calibration display is not a simple thing, there's many variabilities and you will miss the "target reference" because to me it means only this. If so if I have a colorimeter like a i1D3 this one it need to be "corrected" by a reference spectrophotometer if is possible, on the interested display. Also a Klein-10A by the way. Just I'm saying all colorimeters has errors and all of them are very different, mostly with less differences others with big differences and until you try to see this differences, only with a reference spectro will show this.

If you have friend with a spectrophotometer you can ask him or someone to send your i1D3 to be corrected in a C8 Oled display. It Will be more useful than using a generic profile display I think.

P.S: By the way also the spectro's need to be retified over a year more or less, they soffer changes over time and it can be insignificant or not but this is also "part of the game" and it can't be ignored.
Obviously the meter must be profiled. You are not telling nothing new. For those like me that can't profile the meter is better to follow Tyler's recommendation. Above Tyler, only GOD (about Calman).
 

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I think most of the problems that people are having are related to ABSL.

I highly recommend buying an LG service remote or programming a Harmony so you can shut it off during calibration.

ABSL Works by detecting APL changes. That is why I suggested 20% pattern insertion so it resets ABSL.

Also configuring your meter for a five second exposure for low light handler, probably causes a problem with the pattern insertion that is also set to 5 second interval.

Tyler
 
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