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Thanks to the forum i was able to get better results by targeting 2.2 intead of 2.1 and by turning on LLH for my i1D with Sync Mode off.



I want to support the previous question: why not BT2020 HDR? And what would be the targets for the new DV process?
 

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Thanks to the forum i was able to get better results by targeting 2.2 intead of 2.1 and by turning on LLH for my i1D with Sync Mode off.







I want to support the previous question: why not BT2020 HDR? And what would be the targets for the new DV process?


Which Meter Settings did you used for readings and which for LLH?
 

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Which Meter Settings did you used for readings and which for LLH?
Sync Mode Off
Standard Exposure 2s
LLH enabled
Low Light Mode 5s
Trigger 5cd/m2
Custom Profile for my OLED
 

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Sync Mode Off

Standard Exposure 2s

LLH enabled

Low Light Mode 5s

Trigger 5cd/m2

Custom Profile for my OLED


You can optimize by using 2cd/m2 instead of 5cd/m2 because the id3 is stable till 15-20 IRE.

LLH 1.5s fix

Standard Exposure 1.5-2s is ok
 

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You can optimize by using 2cd/m2 instead of 5cd/m2 because the id3 is stable till 15-20 IRE.

LLH 1.5s fix

Standard Exposure 1.5-2s is ok
Why would you recommend LLH 1.5s? Wouldn't higher dwell times reduce noise/increase accuracy?
 

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Why would you recommend LLH 1.5s? Wouldn't higher dwell times reduce noise/increase accuracy?


Higher values don't mean automatically more accuracy especially in HDR Mode it can end up in a longer calibration run which let the panel drift more even with pattern Inseration.

I made some tests and 1.5s is the best option in term of time and accuracy.
 
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Higher values don't mean automatically more accuracy especially in HDR Mode it can end up in a longer calibration run which let the panel drift more even with pattern Inseration.

I made some tests and 1.5s is the best option in term of time and accuracy.
Okay I‘ll consider those changes. For this evening, my wife takes the TV and wants to see real content and no colorful pattern frames. :rolleyes:
 

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And why not BT2020 HDR?

Because BT.2020 HDR is ST 2084 EOTF. This calibration process for HDR and Dolby Vision turns off all of the HDR mapping and we calibrate the panel to its native 2.2 gamma curve.

All TVs have native 2.2 gamma panels, even if they are HDR. At some point in the video pipeline they have to convert to 2.2 gamma to drive the panel.

My SMPTE paper/presentation last fall was on this topic. You can watch it on the SMPTEconnect YouTube page. If you want to understand the reasoning behind this new calibration process for HDR and Dolby Vision, my presentation should be a good starting point.

 

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My SMPTE paper/presentation last fall was on this topic. You can watch it on the SMPTEconnect YouTube page. If you want to understand the reasoning behind this new calibration process for HDR and Dolby Vision, my presentation should be a good starting point.
Question - did the gentleman who asks the question at 24 minutes in come to speak to you, and did you convince him? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #470
@tyler

I have always understood this is the way the LG works as described above but why if you are calibrating the native panel in HDR do you have to do it again for DV when in both cases the set is taking the native 2.2 calibration and using a transfer function to get the HDR and DV result? Why couldn't you just calibrate the native 2.2 panel once and use that base calibration for both HDR and DV?
 

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@tyler

I have always understood this is the way the LG works as described above but why if you are calibrating the native panel in HDR do you have to do it again for DV when in both cases the set is taking the native 2.2 calibration and using a transfer function to get the HDR and DV result? Why couldn't you just calibrate the native 2.2 panel once and use that base calibration for both HDR and DV?
Those viewing modes use separate memories, John. When word of this new capability surfaced several months ago, I asked a somewhat different question, but the answer to mine is also the answer to yours.:)
 

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Discussion Starter #472
That i understand but my point is you can calibrate the native 2.2 and then run each transfer function, HDR and DV, and copy the results to their prospective memory.

From what i know about the set, things like the above can be programatically done. It doesn' take a lot of code to make the above happen.

With the Sony, when you calibrate expert 1 or 2 SDR, they then use these transfer functions to generate the HDR and DV results.

It's kind of like the copy to all function for CMS. They never implemented it until at last June's ISF class, there was a software developer from Korea sitting behind me. I literally wrote the pseudo code for him on a napkin and had Sam Ahn translate everything. When he understood what i was talking about, he said he could make the change and 2 firmware releases later we had that function. ;)
 

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Like the guys from Flatpanels HD I discovered the exact same bug during my calibration. After the first run the TV doesn't seems to load the 3D LUT correctly. You have to unplug the TV so the 3D LUT loads correctly.

https://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1525423234

After my Grayscale run and 101p Lightning LUT to Rec.709 I got this result.



Is this on the bug list Tyler?
 

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Discussion Starter #474
^^^
He knows about it because we discussed it a while back. So from my experience, sometimes i see the LUT not loading properly and other times it loads fine. Either way you have the workaround. :)
 

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Like the guys from Flatpanels HD I discovered the exact same bug during my calibration. After the first run the TV doesn't seems to load the 3D LUT correctly. You have to unplug the TV so the 3D LUT loads correctly.

https://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1525423234

After my Grayscale run and 101p Lightning LUT to Rec.709 I got this result.



Is this on the bug list Tyler?
Do you mean one would have to load the LUT to the TV, then unplug, plug in and the previously loaded LUT will be active? Or do I haveto upload the LUT again after plugging in?
 

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Discussion Starter #476
I believe you need to unplug the TV then upload the LUT again or do another autocal. I only had this happen to me once and i decided to re-do the autocal session.
 

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I believe you need to unplug the TV then upload the LUT again:D or do another autocal. I only had this happen to me once and i decided to re-do the autocal session.
Okay, so one Autocal, hard reboot and all troubles gone for future calibrations? Odd, but ... okay
 
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Another issue I encountered: Once a slot underwent some sort of Autocal it will be impossible to do a manual calibration on this slot as the corresponding controls will be grayed out, even if you reset the slot in Calman (Full DDC reset) or reset the slot via the OSD control. I did not try to do a full factory reset.
 

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Another issue I encountered: Once a slot underwent some sort of Autocal it will be impossible to do a manual calibration on this slot as the corresponding controls will be grayed out, even if you reset the slot in Calman (Full DDC reset) or reset the slot via the OSD control. I did not try to do a full factory reset.
That has been already pointed out here or in another thread, can’t remember. Anyway, if you do a factory reset it will work but you’ll lost all your calibrations. Tyler and LG are working on a backup solution.
 
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That has been already pointed out here or in another thread, can’t remember. Anyway, if you do a factory reset it will work but you’ll lost all your calibrations. Tyler and LG are working on a backup solution.
Sorry for doubling this issue.
 
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