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I use the CalDay/Night modes which I calibrate with CalMAN Enthusiast and never have seen that, but I only use a BD player and DirecTV. All that Smart stuff is turned off.

I calibrated SDR with the new FW at a non-standard 300 nits and wow it looks great. Took me a bit to get used to the bright picture (I watch a lot in a dark setting) but amazed there's no white crush, everything is brighter but relatively the same. Black crush is barely there, nice shadow detail and dimming appears better behaved. I found it better to have a higher Backlight with a lower Contrast to get the 300 nits. With the higher Contrast I get some pinkish cast in the brighter white levels after calibration. Could be my panel maybe, but this is now my best looking calibration.

I watched some 4K discs in my CalDay mode. HDR calibration uses separate settings and I can't currently calibrate (no HDR pattern generator) but it looked great with Backlight 45, Contrast 40, Brightness 1, Local Dimming Low, ColorSpace Auto, Gamma ST.2084 0. All enhancements off.
Thank you AnotherDude,

I haven't used my calibration disk yet since the tv is only a few weeks old and still burning in. I have it dialed in very nice by eye thus far. I'm not one guys that likes my tv as bright as the sun, my settings are:
back light 26
brightness 0
contrast 35
sharpness 4
color 28
tone warm 2
gamma BT.1886 +3
color space native

these settings in my room create a nice natural looking picture with inky blacks and little or no Black crush. I found that all of the other gamma settings crush the blacks too much for my liking.

I mostly watch cable and their premium channels e.g. hbo, showtime etc. I'm giving allot of thought to getting DirecTv again since the last time I had it the picture was superior to cable.

The flickering issue only seems to happen or be noticeable during movie credits except for once when I was playing an xbox game where i could see it really bad till I switched picture mode to Game.

I will likely dial in the picture with my calibration disk during the xmas week since I'm on vacation that week and the tv will have 100+ hours on it by then.
 

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Thank you AnotherDude,

I haven't used my calibration disk yet since the tv is only a few weeks old and still burning in. I have it dialed in very nice by eye thus far. I'm not one guys that likes my tv as bright as the sun, my settings are:
back light 26
brightness 0
contrast 35
sharpness 4
color 28
tone warm 2
gamma BT.1886 +3
color space native

these settings in my room create a nice natural looking picture with inky blacks and little or no Black crush. I found that all of the other gamma settings crush the blacks too much for my liking.

I mostly watch cable and their premium channels e.g. hbo, showtime etc. I'm giving allot of thought to getting DirecTv again since the last time I had it the picture was superior to cable.

The flickering issue only seems to happen or be noticeable during movie credits except for once when I was playing an xbox game where i could see it really bad till I switched picture mode to Game.

I will likely dial in the picture with my calibration disk during the xmas week since I'm on vacation that week and the tv will have 100+ hours on it by then.
Have you tried using Brightness rather than Gamma to get rid of black crush? It's effect is more linear and natural to the original grayscale.

One thing we need to realize is that HDR content will kick a different set of settings you can set separately from the SDR settings and some different choices for Gamma and Colorspace.
 

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Have you tried using Brightness rather than Gamma to get rid of black crush? It's effect is more linear and natural to the original grayscale.

One thing we need to realize is that HDR content will kick a different set of settings you can set separately from the SDR settings and some different choices for Gamma and Colorspace.
What firmware version are you using? Will you be posting your calibrated settings in the settings thread? Thanks!
 

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What firmware version are you using? Will you be posting your calibrated settings in the settings thread? Thanks!
I'm using 1202.3 which I got from the Korean site. I found the FW affected the calibration so it's good to match the FW to the settings. I'll wait until the 1202.3 comes up in the US server then put the settings. I may still tweak them.
 

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Have you tried using Brightness rather than Gamma to get rid of black crush? It's effect is more linear and natural to the original grayscale.

One thing we need to realize is that HDR content will kick a different set of settings you can set separately from the SDR settings and some different choices for Gamma and Colorspace.
I tried using brightness at first but the level required to fix the black crush ends up adding too much haze to the whites for my liking
 

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I tried using brightness at first but the level required to fix the black crush ends up adding too much haze to the whites for my liking
That's weird. Brightness should affect the darker levels not the lighter ones (the name is an oxymoron for black level).

From this link:

Light Output vs Brightness

For TVs and Video Projectors, Nits and ANSI Lumens are both measures of light output (Luminance). However, where does the term Brightness fit in?

Brightness is not the same as actual quantified Luminance (light output). However, Brightness can be referred to as the ability of the viewer to detect differences in Luminance.

Brightness may also be expressed as a percentage more bright or a percentage less bright from a subjective reference point (such as the Brightness control of a TV or video projector - see further explanation below). In other words, Brightness is the subjective interpretation (more bright, less bright) of perceived Luminance, not actual generated Luminance.

The way a TV or Video projector's brightness control works is by adjusting the amount of black level that is visible on the screen. Lowering the "brightness" results in making dark portions of the image darker, resulting in decreased detail and "muddy" look in darker areas of the image. On the other hand, raising the "brightness" results in making the darker parts of the image brighter, which results in dark areas of the image appearing more gray, with the overall image appearing to look washed out.

Although Brightness is not the same as actual quantified Luminance (light output), both TV and video projector makers, as well as product reviewers, have a habit of using the term Brightness as a catch-all for more technical terms that describe light output, which include Nits and Lumens. One example is Epson's use of the term "Color Brightness" that was referenced earlier in this article.
 

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That's weird. Brightness should affect the darker levels not the lighter ones (the name is an oxymoron for black level).

From this link:

Light Output vs Brightness

For TVs and Video Projectors, Nits and ANSI Lumens are both measures of light output (Luminance). However, where does the term Brightness fit in?

Brightness is not the same as actual quantified Luminance (light output). However, Brightness can be referred to as the ability of the viewer to detect differences in Luminance.

Brightness may also be expressed as a percentage more bright or a percentage less bright from a subjective reference point (such as the Brightness control of a TV or video projector - see further explanation below). In other words, Brightness is the subjective interpretation (more bright, less bright) of perceived Luminance, not actual generated Luminance.

The way a TV or Video projector's brightness control works is by adjusting the amount of black level that is visible on the screen. Lowering the "brightness" results in making dark portions of the image darker, resulting in decreased detail and "muddy" look in darker areas of the image. On the other hand, raising the "brightness" results in making the darker parts of the image brighter, which results in dark areas of the image appearing more gray, with the overall image appearing to look washed out.

Although Brightness is not the same as actual quantified Luminance (light output), both TV and video projector makers, as well as product reviewers, have a habit of using the term Brightness as a catch-all for more technical terms that describe light output, which include Nits and Lumens. One example is Epson's use of the term "Color Brightness" that was referenced earlier in this article.
I didn't properly convey what I wanted to say, when the brightness control is too high, it adds a certain haziness to the overall picture. This takes away from the actual contrast (not White level) of the image. I'm very sensitive to this. When I post process digital raw photos, I usually nudge up the gamma in photoshop to eliminate this haziness too. It's just something I don't like in my images
 

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I didn't properly convey what I wanted to say, when the brightness control is too high, it adds a certain haziness to the overall picture. This takes away from the actual contrast (not White level) of the image. I'm very sensitive to this. When I post process digital raw photos, I usually nudge up the gamma in photoshop to eliminate this haziness too. It's just something I don't like in my images
I love contrasty images too, but realize stills (which I do as a long term hobby, back to developing my own film, through Photoshop and currently Lightroom - don't get me started on Adobe :rolleyes:) and video are very different :). Yep, too much brightness increase will wash out the video image by diminishing overall contrast. I get good removal of black crush and increased shadow detail without washed up detail or lost black level with one or at most two up-clicks of Brightness. That could be because my grayscale is calibrated though. There's two different approaching goals of course: what it actually looked like and what I'd rather it looked like :). Neither is wrong. I oscillate between them (especially in photos).

In TV PQ one problem with settings that just look good to me is that content gets done with different goals by the creators, and settings based on one content can seriously wreck another set of contents. You can here the complains "this looked great but that looked like crap" when that originally looked damn good as it was released, in its own fashion.

I make these comments not directly at you but as general chatter. Ultimately it's our particular eyes each of us want to make happy :).
 

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I'm using 1202.3 which I got from the Korean site. I found the FW affected the calibration so it's good to match the FW to the settings. I'll wait until the 1202.3 comes up in the US server then put the settings. I may still tweak them.
I thought that the latest firmware improved black crush. You are still seeing it as a big negative with the latest firmware?
 

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I thought that the latest firmware improved black crush. You are still seeing it as a big negative with the latest firmware?
Not at all - as I pointed out in my previous post it is barely there :)
 

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Not at all - as I pointed out in my previous post it is barely there :)

Damnit I'm tempted to download from the Korean site but I won't have the time to do a recal until after Christmas.
 

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So I just swapped my older Panasonic plasma (complete with burned-in images from static UI content from a game I used to play) for a Samsung Q9FN 65".

I've been running a series of solid color images for a while now breaking in the panel before having it calibrated and noticed some non-uniform coloring. I asked my calibrator about it and he said to come here and check. Reading through the thread I see this talk of Dirty Screen Effect and how it's really just "normal" for this TV. Honestly I don't think mine is too bad but watching solid colors I did notice it more on the green slides than anything else.

I guess this is just something to live with? I don't really think I'd even notice it on real, dynamic content. I just wanted to post here (say hello) and make sure I don't have something truly wrong with the panel I received from Amazon. :)

Thanks!

- Paul Braman
You will have uniformity issues of some kind on all displays, yes it is normal to a degree. If it is to bad, that's a whole different story.
 

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Hey guys long time reader first time poster!
I just bought this beast of a tv and it’s been good, I’ve tried many different settings from you folks here. Thank you. They’ve been great. I’m having an issue and I’m not sure if this is a “bring back tv because panel is crap” scenario. My kids were watching you tube and this Channel is about kid content. I noticed that the right side of it screen from top to bottom is dim compared to the rest of the screen. I tried on my laptop to make sure it was the content and it wasn’t. So, I am at a cross roads could you guys help me out!? Is this return worthy? Let me know. All the best! Attached is a picture not sure if you can see it.
Gabe
 

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It could of been the channel but It’s gone now - not sure if anyone else has had this issue? Not sure if it was a live channel or what but I’d love to hear your thoughts.
 

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It could of been the channel but It’s gone now - not sure if anyone else has had this issue? Not sure if it was a live channel or what but I’d love to hear your thoughts.
I would test the tv with a fully white screen, with local dimming on and off, to see if you can reproduce the issue, and looking at a variety of content as well. If it’s a problem with the array, that could be a faulty panel that needs to be exchanged.
It certainly doesn’t look good on your picture, and if it’s not from the source, I would get this addressed ASAP, as it’s not acceptable on a tv at this price point.

Edit: typo fix
 

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Yet Another Q9FN Problem Post

Hello all! I'm new to the Q9F club, I've had mine for nearly two weeks now.

Backstory: I owned an LG B7 that suffered from severe banding. It was somewhat noticeable out of the box, but easy to ignore. Unfortunately, the problem only got worse. After nearly a year of ownership, it was too much to take and I ended up contacting LG. After much back-and-forth and sending photographic evidence, I was granted a full refund via store credit at the outlet I'd purchased the OLED from.

Fast forward to present day.

I now have a 65" Q9FN, version AA01. It is (generally) amazing. 90% of the time, I could not be happier. That said, naturally, I'm here because the other 10% exists!

Just another run-o-the-mill case of gray scale uniformity issues.

Now, coming from a bad relationship with a banded OLED, I'm hyper sensitive to this stuff. That said, I didn't whip out the USB with my gray/white test slides until I started seeing the DSE. I'd post the pics if I could, but I need a minimum of 5 posts. Soon!

With *most* content, there is no issue. On dark/gloomy scenes in movies, where the OLED banding would have drove me nuts, the picture is excellent. I've tested most of the movies that caused me distress during my OLED days and I've been pleasantly surprised across the board. HDR movies look amazing. Netflix is fantastic (even without Dolby Vision).

The problem now is with cable television and gaming. Cable TV, especially commercials with bright blocks of solid colors and screaming whites, the most extreme banding is noticeable even without panning. Game console menus are of course a horror show, but I've come to expect that. Gaming itself is hit and miss. On games with limited camera movement, such a fighting games like Smash Bros. Ultimate on Switch or Dragon Ball FighterZ on PS4, everything looks amazing. As soon as I'm rotating a camera in an FPS game, however, or something like Zelda: Breath of the Wild or Red Dead 2, the DSE is very noticeable.

There is banding, and one particular band is bad enough to pop up here and there when the stars align. But it's way off to the left and I can ignore it well enough. The biggest issue is the DSE that's front and center, and impossible to look beyond.

There also appears to be a weird "border" around the entire edge of the panel. Maybe 3/4 of an inch of ... brightness? It's not backlight bleed or anything, it's just a uniform abnormality the frames the entire picture. It doesn't bother me that much to be honest, and it's easy to ignore, but it's definitely there (though seemingly impossible to catch on camera).

This topic has been covered numerous times. I suppose I'm looking for advice. Are there settings I can try to offset the worst of it? Do I just return it and try a replacement? Demand that they try to find me a Samsung panel and not an AUO? Do I return and opt for a Sony LED or give LG another shot with a C8?

I'm hesitant to go back to OLED, despite hearing that the banding situation is much improved. I game a lot more than anything else, so even the slightest risk of burn-in puckers my butt. And yet, I'm so used to OLED blacks that the Q9FN may be the only acceptable replacement (or is it?). On paper, it looks like the perfect TV for me. Even the limited viewing angles aren't an issue as my viewing space is essentially a bowling alley ...

Any help/advice would be appreciated. Thanks for reading.
 
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