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So I wanted to post a few updates on my 65C8/77C9 comparison:

1) I have found that I need to set Brightness to 49 in all HDR/DV modes on C9 to compensate for raised blacks which do not exist at Brightness 50 on the C8. Even with the lower brightness setting, the C9 still displays much more shadow detail!
2) I can compensate somewhat for the duller/more aggressive ABL on full bright scene HDR/DV content of the C9 by switching the TV to the Cinema modes. I don't know why this is. Of course, I have to set color temp to at least Medium because I cannot STAND the sepia look of any of the Warm modes in Cinema/Cinema Home.
3) There is something really weird going on with HDR/DV modes and the "Cinema" mode. It's almost like it raises the color gamma in some scenes to where they look like the C8 on Standard. But on Standard the C9 gamma is much darker only with those same scenes (many of the HDR screensavers on Apple TV 4K.) And yes, this is with gamma set to the proper equivalent of 2.2 in all modes. Like a forest or a body water will be WAAY to dark on the C9, unless I set it away from Standard to Cinema. And there's literally nothing I can do in Standard mode to get them looking the same as Standard on the C8.
4) Bright yellow continues to be a huge problem for the C9 vs the C8, but I think the Cinema modes might be helping. Otherwise, the C8 on Standard produces much more vibrant yellows than the C9 on Standard, and I think it has to do with slightly more aggressive ABL on the C9.

It's been kind of a pain to get my C9 to look AS GOOD AS the C8 does on brightly colored content thanks to my ABL findings. Bright yellows are the hardest for some reason. This is evident in the first couple of scenes of The Lego Movie 2 especially.

I know what you're thinking: Get a pro calibration! Yeah, except I'm terrified the result will be a dim and sepia looking image that is reminiscent of the default Cinema/Technicolor modes which would make it a waste of money. If dim and sepia is "accurate", I don't want accurate! I hate Vivid don't get me wrong, but tweaked Standard USUALLY produces the most natural image to my eyes. For the C9 I have to break down and try tweaked Cinema modes for their apparent gamma and bright yellow color HDR advantages.

All that said, I'm still loving the much more natural out of the box skin tones and better dark detail of the C9. I wish I knew what accurate was. Maybe I need to buy my own calibration equipment. I can't wait for the new 4K HDR/DV version of the Spears & Munsil disc!!
 

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I have created the "OFFICIAL" 2019 LG C9 Consolidated Info, FAQ, Troubleshooting, Firmware & more thread where there is a lot of distilled pieces of information from this thread (and others), useful for owners that search for grouped data about LG's C9..
This is great! Thanks for including the ABL aggressiveness which has been my main pain. I wouldn't say the incidence is low as I can get it to happen frequently. Maybe you mean incidence as in number of complaints? Also all my ABL complaints have been with AI Brightness OFF, not ON. I don't want to set an expectation that folks can fix this by disabling AI brightness.

Also you said "Power - prety loud coil whine from the power supply, prevalent on the 77" models" I do NOT have this thank the gods! It would driven me nuts. Very sensitive to this kind of thing.

I also continue to find zero improvement in Motion Handling and zero improvement in very temporary image retention over the C8.
 

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Discussion Starter #3,824 (Edited)
So I wanted to post a few updates on my 65C8/77C9 comparison:



1) I have found that I need to set Brightness to 49 in all HDR/DV modes on C9 to compensate for raised blacks which do not exist at Brightness 50 on the C8. Even with the lower brightness setting, the C9 still displays much more shadow detail!

2) I can compensate somewhat for the duller/more aggressive ABL on full bright scene HDR/DV content of the C9 by switching the TV to the Cinema modes. I don't know why this is. Of course, I have to set color temp to at least Medium because I cannot STAND the sepia look of any of the Warm modes in Cinema/Cinema Home.

3) There is something really weird going on with HDR/DV modes and the "Cinema" mode. It's almost like it raises the color gamma in some scenes to where they look like the C8 on Standard. But on Standard the C9 gamma is much darker only with those same scenes (many of the HDR screensavers on Apple TV 4K.) And yes, this is with gamma set to the proper equivalent of 2.2 in all modes. Like a forest or a body water will be WAAY to dark on the C9, unless I set it away from Standard to Cinema. And there's literally nothing I can do in Standard mode to get them looking the same as Standard on the C8.

4) Bright yellow continues to be a huge problem for the C9 vs the C8, but I think the Cinema modes might be helping. Otherwise, the C8 on Standard produces much more vibrant yellows than the C9 on Standard, and I think it has to do with slightly more aggressive ABL on the C9.



It's been kind of a pain to get my C9 to look AS GOOD AS the C8 does on brightly colored content thanks to my ABL findings. Bright yellows are the hardest for some reason. This is evident in the first couple of scenes of The Lego Movie 2 especially.



I know what you're thinking: Get a pro calibration! Yeah, except I'm terrified the result will be a dim and sepia looking image that is reminiscent of the default Cinema/Technicolor modes which would make it a waste of money. If dim and sepia is "accurate", I don't want accurate! I hate Vivid don't get me wrong, but tweaked Standard USUALLY produces the most natural image to my eyes. For the C9 I have to break down and try tweaked Cinema modes for their apparent gamma and bright yellow color HDR advantages.



All that said, I'm still loving the much more natural out of the box skin tones and better dark detail of the C9. I wish I knew what accurate was. Maybe I need to buy my own calibration equipment. I can't wait for the new 4K HDR/DV version of the Spears & Munsil disc!!


“I don’t want accurate!”
I’m not sure there’s people here that can help you then. Isn’t accurate PQ the main point on AVS? What are you trying to achieve?
Anyway, I had my C9 calibrated by the @jrref and very happy with the results. The C9 can produce incredibly accurate (reference level) colors. Accurate can also mean very punchy and vivid especially with WCG.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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My main gripe was ABL with 50% chrome windows when windows 10 was set to HDR

Chrome was way too bright.

Now with the special chrome flag that dampens the whites, i think it's perfect.

Using Potplayer with MADVR, and i can watch HDR movies, and browse chrome without getting blinded.

removed the borders of potplayer, and set up hdr passthrough, not sure about all the madvr settings, but i think it looks ok.

The TV also changes to 23.97hz when i double click potplayer to make it fullscreen.

It's a freaking amazing TV, and only going to get better with a hdmi2.1 card with [email protected] :)

Here's an image:
 

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This is great! Thanks for including the ABL aggressiveness which has been my main pain. I wouldn't say the incidence is low as I can get it to happen frequently. Maybe you mean incidence as in number of complaints? Also all my ABL complaints have been with AI Brightness OFF, not ON. I don't want to set an expectation that folks can fix this by disabling AI brightness.
There have been very diverse reports on both ABL (whole screen dimming) & ASBL (icon/banner dimming). Early owners and a couple reviews reported good things. More recently there have been a few people (AppleTV and people using as a monitor) unhappy with them (mostly ABL I think, though people often confuse the 2, so it can sometimes be hard to tell which they are referring to.)

I also continue to find zero improvement in Motion Handling and zero improvement in very temporary image retention over the C8.
Improved motion handling I believe got on the list due to claims by LG and early comments from professional calibrators. Though I expect such differences would be hard to tell without a side-by-side comparison.
Improved temporary image retention is on the list purely because of the rtings review.
 
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I have created the "OFFICIAL" 2019 LG C9 Consolidated Info, FAQ, Troubleshooting, Firmware & more thread where there is a lot of distilled pieces of information from this thread (and others), useful for owners that search for grouped data about LG's C9.

The thread is composed of the following sections:

General Info & Summary
Main differences C8/C9
Known problems
Tested devices/compatibility
LG C9 Firmware Changelog
FAQ - Frequently Asked Questions
Troubleshooting

Not all sections are completed, most are under construction...
Please continue to use THIS thread (and not mine) - I will update my thread as new info will become available.

Thanks, if you want to add the chrome fix, it might help a few people who use windows on their C9

It's basically a SDR chrome on a HDR screen., but you can still watch HDR youtube.

It's like the windows slider for HDR/SDR ratio that never effected chrome.


chrome://flags/#force-color-profile into chrome browser


https://www.thefreewindows.com/21668...eversible-fix/
 

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You should work in the media, you're sure great at taking people's quotes out of context! :D
Nah, just having a little fun but you're not too far off... :D

Having a pro calibration is eye opening. The C9 in Cinema User mode is surprisingly accurate out of the box.
Its simple, use Cinema User for all HDR content and the ISF (Dark and Bright) for everything else. Again, Im aware not everyone will want to spend the extra money for a pro calibration. However it can alleviate ones OCD regarding PQ.
 

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You should work in the media, you're sure great at taking people's quotes out of context! /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Nah, just having a little fun but you're not too far off... /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Having a pro calibration is eye opening. The C9 in Cinema User mode is surprisingly accurate out of the box.
Its simple, use Cinema User for all HDR content and the ISF (Dark and Bright) for everything else. Again, Im aware not everyone will want to spend the extra money for a pro calibration. However it can alleviate ones OCD regarding PQ.
What’s your opinion on applying the white balance settings that RTINGS has on their site for SDR?
 

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Quite possible. Unless it can do HDR with 4:4:4 chroma.
Well, so far there is no indication of features of a HDMI 2.1 source device. I find it suspicious that the specs of this platform indicate a HDMI 2.1 transmitter but does not boast features of 2.1. No 4k120, no 8k60, no VRR, and it indicates 4k60 limit but does not say 10bit HDR at 4:4:4.
 

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I mean I hate to rain on parades, but the tv is made for tv use. I understand it can be used as a pc monitor as some do, but to complain how it has abl, etc. ruining the experience as a pc monitor is not important to the majority and not something I would knock this tv for...
The only way to ever get the most out of a TV or a projector is with a HTPC so that is your loss
 

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What’s your opinion on applying the white balance settings that RTINGS has on their site for SDR?
All panels have some variance so I wouldn't get that granular applying someones white balance.
It won't hurt either so no harm if you're curious. Observe the PQ and see if skin tones still look natural etc...

Also, I recommend looking a CNETs PQ settings. CNET's setting cover the broad strokes and I find them to be very good.
 
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I have opened a new discussion on the LG Comunity for the C9 video/audio freeze problem.

@macmane @Baldrekr and @Markalark you should all login to that site and comment on that discussion for your particular case, so LG can see that is not a rare incident and it should take it into consideration.
I'm quoting myself because I opened that ticket for LG support for the above forum members and now LG wants to get me scheduled for service, for a problem I do not have...

This is a lesson for future me - do not do that again!
@macmane, @Baldrekr and @Markalark should all step up and talk to JamalofLG because I will be in "radio silence" on that ticket!
 

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You should work in the media, you're sure great at taking people's quotes out of context! /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif
Nah, just having a little fun but you're not too far off... /forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif

Having a pro calibration is eye opening. The C9 in Cinema User mode is surprisingly accurate out of the box.
Its simple, use Cinema User for all HDR content and the ISF (Dark and Bright) for everything else. Again, Im aware not everyone will want to spend the extra money for a pro calibration. However it can alleviate ones OCD regarding PQ.
What’s your opinion on applying the white balance settings that RTINGS has on their site for SDR?
Don’t do that. You can’t copy calibration settings from one tv to another...well you can but they aren’t going to be correct and could make things worse than ootb.
 

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I have now had my 65C9 for just under two weeks. This was an upgrade from a 55EC9300. I had a relatively issue free 9300. No banding, fairly consistent when viewing solid grays etc... My biggest issue was how mottled some dark scenes could get. This would not only happen with compressed DTV signals but also reared its ugly head on some Blu Rays such as the Dark Knight (just happened to remember this one). So far the C9 was much easier to setup and configure (I won't say calibrate since I have no gear so cannot begin to look at white balance). I am so impressed with how much better dark scenes are rendered. This is true of satellite TV as well as streamed content (Netflix, Amazon) and Blu Rays. All in all this was a very good upgrade and now in addition to this spectacular set in my den I also have an awesome OLED in our bedroom.
 

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So I wanted to post a few updates on my 65C8/77C9 comparison:

1) I have found that I need to set Brightness to 49 in all HDR/DV modes on C9 to compensate for raised blacks which do not exist at Brightness 50 on the C8. Even with the lower brightness setting, the C9 still displays much more shadow detail!
2) I can compensate somewhat for the duller/more aggressive ABL on full bright scene HDR/DV content of the C9 by switching the TV to the Cinema modes. I don't know why this is. Of course, I have to set color temp to at least Medium because I cannot STAND the sepia look of any of the Warm modes in Cinema/Cinema Home.
3) There is something really weird going on with HDR/DV modes and the "Cinema" mode. It's almost like it raises the color gamma in some scenes to where they look like the C8 on Standard. But on Standard the C9 gamma is much darker only with those same scenes (many of the HDR screensavers on Apple TV 4K.) And yes, this is with gamma set to the proper equivalent of 2.2 in all modes. Like a forest or a body water will be WAAY to dark on the C9, unless I set it away from Standard to Cinema. And there's literally nothing I can do in Standard mode to get them looking the same as Standard on the C8.
4) Bright yellow continues to be a huge problem for the C9 vs the C8, but I think the Cinema modes might be helping. Otherwise, the C8 on Standard produces much more vibrant yellows than the C9 on Standard, and I think it has to do with slightly more aggressive ABL on the C9.

It's been kind of a pain to get my C9 to look AS GOOD AS the C8 does on brightly colored content thanks to my ABL findings. Bright yellows are the hardest for some reason. This is evident in the first couple of scenes of The Lego Movie 2 especially.

I know what you're thinking: Get a pro calibration! Yeah, except I'm terrified the result will be a dim and sepia looking image that is reminiscent of the default Cinema/Technicolor modes which would make it a waste of money. If dim and sepia is "accurate", I don't want accurate! I hate Vivid don't get me wrong, but tweaked Standard USUALLY produces the most natural image to my eyes. For the C9 I have to break down and try tweaked Cinema modes for their apparent gamma and bright yellow color HDR advantages.

All that said, I'm still loving the much more natural out of the box skin tones and better dark detail of the C9. I wish I knew what accurate was. Maybe I need to buy my own calibration equipment. I can't wait for the new 4K HDR/DV version of the Spears & Munsil disc!!
If you think Standard usually produces the most ‘natural’ image, then yes, never get your display professionally calibrated. Ever.
 

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^^^
Ken, it's really funny when you get these guys with these observations that sound like they are from years ago when the sets were not that great from the factory. Everything so out of context lol. I almost sounds like someone cut and paste a review from circa 2012.

I was talking to Robert yesterday about ootb for Sony and LG and basically using any of the expert picture modes, if you set is not out of spec, will give you a very accurate picture. The 2018-2019 sets have really improved so much you really only need to adjust the brightness and set the motion processing to your liking. But if you want to take it up a notch and get the most out of the set, then you may want to consider calibrating it.
 
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