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For my setup, I don't use or need ARC/CEC. So I use an optical cable from the C8 to the 780 for Comcast audio. I have my Comcast STB connected directly to the C8 for local HDTV stations only. I do this because I have legacy cable boxes (1080 only) and they don't play nice with Deep Color so I need to connect the cable box directly to the C8 and disable Deep Color on that input only. Local HDTV is 5.1 audio only so that's why I use an optical connection. All of my streaming is via an ATV4k so I don't bother with the on-board apps. ARC, like optical is limited to 5.1. Some ARC systems can pass DD+ so you will get lossy Atmos. eARC allows for HD Audio (Dolby TrueHD, DTS-MA, lossless Atmos, etc) but is not possible with an optical connection so you need to enable eARC on your devices that support eARC. ARC compatibility does not automatically mean you have eARC ability. That depends on what the device mfr chose to do. CEC, like I said is a pain in the ass so I've disabled that function on all of my devices and just use a programmable remote like a Harmony to control all of my devices with a single remote. For example, you can press a button on the remote that says Watch TV and the receiver, cable box, and tv turn on. You can then control volume, change channels, etc. Or, you can just select Devices, and then select which device you want to use and have almost complete functionality for that device like you would have with its own remote.

All of this depends on how much control you have over ARC/CEC on your connected devices. Some devices allow for separate control over ARC/CEC, a lot don't, so it's either/or. That's why I use the 780 as my hub for the ATV4k and the UHD BD player, and just use optical for the local HDTV stations. Whether your dish remote can be programmed as a universal remote I can't answer. CEC (Consumer Electronic Control), in theory, will allow for that but compatibility with other devices can be a problem. All you can do is try. Being as your system is a little more complicated than mine. I don't have a need to connect my laptop example, and if I do, I just use Airplay. I would write down your connection setups and then see what works. If it doesn't try another configuration setup and keep track of what works and what doesn't. You may have to compromise on something.

Thank you for the detailed response. So here's the current situation:
1. My AVR (Yamaha AX-R780) is connected via HDMI to my Dish DVR.
2. The AVR HDMI out is connected to tv (LG oled c9). External sound and video for all the channels, dvr and included apps (Netflix, YouTube, etc.) work perfectly.
3. I hooked up my blu-ray player (Samsung BD-P3600) the exact same way.
My AVR (Yamaha AX-R780) is connected via HDMI to my blu-ray player. The same single AVR HDMI out is connected to tv (LG oled c9).

The blu-ray and dvd discs display an excellent picture but there is no sound.

There is no sound whether earc is on (with CEC on) or off.
I tried changing audio out on blu-ray player from PCM to bitstream. No change.
Also, none of the apps included with the tv have any sound either.

Am I going to need an optical cable for the blu-ray player?

 

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Thank you for the detailed response. So here's the current situation:
1. My AVR (Yamaha AX-R780) is connected via HDMI to my Dish DVR.
2. The AVR HDMI out is connected to tv (LG oled c9). External sound and video for the all channels, dvr and included apps (Netflix, YouTube, etc.) work perfectly.
3. I hooked up my blu-ray player (Samsung BD-P3600) the exact same way.
My AVR (Yamaha AX-R780) is connected via HDMI to my blu-ray player. The same single AVR HDMI out is connected to tv (LG oled c9).

The blu-ray and dvd discs display an excellent picture but there is no sound.


There is no sound whether earc is on (with CEC on) or off.
I tried changing audio out on blu-ray player from PCM to bitstream. No change.
Also, none of the apps included with the tv have any sound either.

Am I going to need an optical cable for the blu-ray player?

It sounds like a setting config somewhere. I only need the optical cable from Comcrap local HDTV stations only. If you want DD or DD+ audio from the internal apps then you would need ARC enabled, otherwise an optical cable would work fine but you would be limited to DD (5.1) and possibly DD+ (lossy Atmos). Are you using Atmos or 7.1 with the 780. There is only 1 ARC imput on the A-780 (HDMI 1) so make sure that your connection is from that input to whichever input is designated for ARC on the C9. What firmware version is the A-780 on. I believe that 1.65 added eARC functionality but ARC was active for previous versions.

What is troublesome is that you don't get any audio with a direct connection from your BD player to the 780. I would disable ARC/CEC on everything as a test and then see if you get audio from the BD player. Are you sure that the correct input is selected on the 780 when the source is the BD player? The same would be true for the tv apps.
 

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So now I am seeing flashing in the black bars during stranger things. Is there any way to fix this. Why is this happening?


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I'm not noticing flashing in the letterbox but notice a lot of artifacts in the black scenes. This is probably due to either a lower bit rate stream or poor render. I'm starting to realize Stranger Things is not the show to scrutinize tv quality. But this season is awesome!
 

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I'm not noticing flashing in the letterbox but notice a lot of artifacts in the black scenes. This is probably due to either a lower bit rate stream or poor render. I'm starting to realize Stranger Things is not the show to scrutinize tv quality. But this season is awesome!
I have Sony 65 A1 OLED and 55 C9..
Stranger things looks WAY better on the Sony. Blacks doesn’t ”artifact” on the SONY.
Example is the all black ”blindfolded” scenes with eleven is PITCH BLACK on the SONY and eleven really pops and stands out. No artifacts what so ever. While on the C9 it doesn’t look good. Artifacts like crazy - not good looking black background.
Anyone know if I need to tweak any settings? I’m using rtings.com settings.
Must be same source from Netflix even though one is AndroidTV and the other WebOS. So any bit steam or poor tender should be the same?
 

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I have Sony 65 A1 OLED and 55 C9..
Stranger things looks WAY better on the Sony. Blacks doesn’t ”artifact” on the SONY.
Example is the all black ”blindfolded” scenes with eleven is PITCH BLACK on the SONY and eleven really pops and stands out. No artifacts what so ever. While on the C9 it doesn’t look good. Artifacts like crazy - not good looking black background.
Anyone know if I need to tweak any settings? I’m using rtings.com settings.
Must be same source from Netflix even though one is AndroidTV and the other WebOS. So any bit steam or poor tender should be the same?
You might want to try Gamma BT.1886 or 2.4, instead of the 2.2 Gamma which rtings suggested. See https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/1450925-what-bt-1886-gamma.html for more about this.
 

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I have Sony 65 A1 OLED and 55 C9..

Stranger things looks WAY better on the Sony. Blacks doesn’t ”artifact” on the SONY.

Example is the all black ”blindfolded” scenes with eleven is PITCH BLACK on the SONY and eleven really pops and stands out. No artifacts what so ever. While on the C9 it doesn’t look good. Artifacts like crazy - not good looking black background.

Anyone know if I need to tweak any settings? I’m using rtings.com settings.

Must be same source from Netflix even though one is AndroidTV and the other WebOS. So any bit steam or poor tender should be the same?
That's really interesting because I have actually noticed black levels change during the scene. From grey to pitch black. Almost like ABL is kicking in or dynamic contrast gets all screwy. I'll wait for LG to pump out some more firmware updates. This thing is awesome when it gets it right but all over the place when it gets it wrong
 

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That's really interesting because I have actually noticed black levels change during the scene. From grey to pitch black. Almost like ABL is kicking in or dynamic contrast gets all screwy. I'll wait for LG to pump out some more firmware updates. This thing is awesome when it gets it right but all over the place when it gets it wrong
I just watched the black scenes in season 1 ep5, and s2 ep2 (via internal app). I didn't notice anything odd with flashing or blacks switching to greys. The scenes looked the way I expected them to look.

Since it is Dolby Vision, I am using Cinema (User), and my tv is calibrated.

I have Dynamic Contrast turned off. Both noise reductions set to low, smooth gradation low. Real cinema on, trumotion off
 

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I have Sony 65 A1 OLED and 55 C9..
Stranger things looks WAY better on the Sony. Blacks doesn’t ”artifact” on the SONY.
Example is the all black ”blindfolded” scenes with eleven is PITCH BLACK on the SONY and eleven really pops and stands out. No artifacts what so ever. While on the C9 it doesn’t look good. Artifacts like crazy - not good looking black background.
Anyone know if I need to tweak any settings? I’m using rtings.com settings.
Must be same source from Netflix even though one is AndroidTV and the other WebOS. So any bit steam or poor tender should be the same?



Can you post the season and episode number? Did you use Netflix built-in app or external device?


I can give it a test since I have Shield TV as a separate source to confirm if the issue exists.
 

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We are getting used to the differences between the C9 and our old Kuro 141. It's still pretty close, IMO. And, I expect the C9 to shine after a real calibration.

I'm very surprised to see this note - I also had the Kuro and the Panny VT65, and when I watch 4k HDR content on the LG, i am floored.


Also, I am curious - does calibration make a material difference compared to getting the basic settings right?..
 

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Agreed it may be subtle, but it is Dynamic which is why Dolby Vision gets all the praise. And HDR10+ due to the fact that it’s Free will be adopted by all game publisher and Game Consoles going forward. So it will defeat Dolby Vision in the long run. Many say but Dolby Vision is 12-bit and HDR10+ is only 10-bit, and to that I say wake me up when you have a 12-bit Panel.
I would say that’s pure conjecture at this point as to which will dominate. Both can coexist too.
 

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I'm very surprised to see this note - I also had the Kuro and the Panny VT65, and when I watch 4k HDR content on the LG, i am floored.


Also, I am curious - does calibration make a material difference compared to getting the basic settings right?..
I haven't had an opportunity to sample any 4K content, yet. I would expect to be equally floored when I do so :)


Whatever settings you are currently using (good, bad or, other) will have ZERO effect on the calibration, since part of the calibration is to undo all of the settings currently in use and replace them (well, most of them, anyway) with settings that are correct for your display.
 

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What setting is that? I have had user with a 1 in both settings and smooth. Also I noticed it severely in s2 ep 9 with flashing in the black bars basically the whole time.


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In the settings you note here ('User' in TruMotion), if you turn OLED motion on, that's the black frame insertion.

I just tried a few things on S2E9, but i can't replicate the problem, it looks fine on my tv..
 

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I just had this happen on my brand new C9 on latest FW.

Just froze for a second then sped up really fast to catch up and did the same thing you said. It also locked up the TV to where I had to unplug it. It was completely unresponsive. I have fairly fast internet (500 Mbps). Using Ethernet - and never happened on my old C8....
What equipment do you have? I am trying to see if there is something in common we all have, since not everyone experiences this issue: I am using a Marantz SR7010, another guy with the problem is using a Denon something (same company), how about you? It could be the receiver has a bug dealing with the TV's HDMI audio output. One experiment would be to try using the TV's built in sound and not send it to a receiver.
 

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If I wanted to put more hours on this panel while I am not watching, in order to get it to 100-200 hours break-in faster, what is the safest way to do that? I have the picture settings closely matching Rtings. I have the break-in slides that have 13 slides. They have Red, Green, Blue, Whites, Grays. Are these safe to cycle all day? Does the built in app for pictures rotate through slides and is reliable for that?
 

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I'm very surprised to see this note - I also had the Kuro and the Panny VT65, and when I watch 4k HDR content on the LG, i am floored.


Also, I am curious - does calibration make a material difference compared to getting the basic settings right?..
I haven't had an opportunity to sample any 4K content, yet. I would expect to be equally floored when I do so /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


Whatever settings you are currently using (good, bad or, other) will have ZERO effect on the calibration, since part of the calibration is to undo all of the settings currently in use and replace them (well, most of them, anyway) with settings that are correct for your display.
Sorry, i was not clear. I meant, if you compare a calibrated tv with a tv using, say, the rtings settings, will you see a material difference?
 

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In the settings you note here ('User' in TruMotion), if you turn OLED motion on, that's the black frame insertion.



I just tried a few things on S2E9, but i can't replicate the problem, it looks fine on my tv..


What settings do you use for motion?


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I started with everything off but the stutter (https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/motion/stutter) was annoying me, so i played with dejudder, which i found to work best at 10 without creating soap opera effect.
In short, dejudder 10, deblur 0, oled motion off.
 

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Sorry, i was not clear. I meant, if you compare a calibrated tv with a tv using, say, the rtings settings, will you see a material difference?
You will most definitely see a difference between a properly calibrated display and one that has been "adjusted" using someone's suggested settings.
 
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