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I can't see any film on the front of my C9 65", the front had one big one of course with red tabs on the bottom. I goofed and ran the unit for 3-5 hours before remoivng it "Just in case" I returned it or it was faulty. But nothing happened of course. Still I shouldn't have left it on.


I'll check one more time on the back but I swear there is nothing.
 

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I can't see any film on the front of my C9 65", the front had one big one of course with red tabs on the bottom. I'll check one more time on the back but I swear there is nothing.
Yes, the front is easy because it has the red tabs, both for seeing it, and for giving a place to pull from. The film on the back has no tabs.
 

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I can't see any film on the front of my C9 65", the front had one big one of course with red tabs on the bottom. I goofed and ran the unit for 3-5 hours before remoivng it "Just in case" I returned it or it was faulty. But nothing happened of course. Still I shouldn't have left it on.


I'll check one more time on the back but I swear there is nothing.
I'm assuming the warning for film removal from LG is only posted on their Indian website because ambient temperatures are much higher in many parts of India and air conditioning is rare. LG probably doesn't feel there's any risk of cooking an OLED with the film on at room temperature, hence the lack of warnings on their other regional websites.
 

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I can not believe this thread has fallen to this level where the discussion revolves around plastic film on the freakin back on a C9.
Thankyou for your contribution.
 

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AutoCal features in every market?

Does any one know if the C9 Autocal feature is available in every market (Thailand in particular). I ask because I have on a occasions run into an issue where an expected feature is not included in the local model. My Panasonic VT65 Thailand release did not included any ISF modes, presumably for cost savings or licensing issues. I've asked the local dealer and they have no idea what I'm talking about, which is to be expected. Its not mentioned in either the local manuals I downloaded, but its not mentioned in the USA manual either.


I have no idea how to test this other than to try to bring a laptop to the show room and see if I can get it to connect the display model to a network and my laptop to the C9.
 

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It's similar. Flickering might be a bit more noticeable on the OLED, but just as with all things, if you let your eyes adapt, it's like the flicker isn't there. You gotta remember, our eyes are like our ears. The longer we let them acclimate to a change, the easier it gets. You can't see in the dark when you first go into a dark room, then as you spend some time there, you can start seeing. The same can be said with flickering. You notice it at first, then as you start playing and focusing on other things, it fades into the background, and stops being noticeable. But you will always get a the huge benefit of motion clarity. It's not as good as an LCD with BFI, but it's on the level of a plasma, which tend to have like 700 lines of motion resolution. OLED is close to that. I believe 600 lines or so. By comparison, LCD and OLED without BFI is 300 lines of motion res. I can't accept that when gaming. It's too blurry.
I was wondering about that. You say LED is 300, but I was checking out some reviews, and CNET says the Q9 has a motion resolution of 1000.

Also they say my other TV, the KS8000 has 1200 according to their review. I feel I definitely notice that on my C9 vs my KS8000.
 

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Man this is a lot better than mine. I've only had my C9 for a day but I opened a blank page on a web browser and zoomed in so the screen was fully white, there is a vertical band with a yellow tint, maybe 5 inches wide. I'll try to take a pic, its pretty subtle and haven't noticed it on normal viewing of course but if played NHL it might be noticeable. Would you folks exchange it or let it be? I don't really want to go through the hassle of a return.



Never had good luck with panel lottery, my plasma was pretty bad with banding and stuff. Even tried 2 panels got a worse one so I asked for my original back.



On the topic of BFI, I haven't tried a 30fps game yet but the 60fps games looked great to me. I never noticed flickering on my plasma so maybe BFI is an option but I don't want a dim screen. Can't lie I am thinking about the Vizio now if this becomes an issue. Plus I can get the 75" for the same price.


I was in the same boat. I tried 65” B8, C8 and C9 and it was awful, each had 4 different tinted strips on whites and I watch hockey and play NHL too and it wasn’t possible for me to accept.

I then tried a 55” C9 and it is perfect.


Also, I’m not sure you will like the Vizio. I had the tried 2 P65 a few years ago and it was horrible for uniformity and DSE was even worse. Both I tried also had yellow tinting on whites. Finally it had bad grey uniformity that caused the sides to be really washed out on certain colours. Here is a good example. I would try and find a good C9.



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Petitions rarely work but I signed regardless. I think it would be more effective to get in contact with a popular calibrator or tech person with LG contacts so they can talk to them directly.
Yea. I am not a big fan of petitions either.
But it is still better than doing nothing.
@dfa973 already send a message to John Archer and Vincent Teoh.
I tried to contact digitalfernsehen.de (they are a well known german magazine + they have a YouTube channel).
Unfortunately their contact form is not working.
 

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I will post an image of the damage tonight. I want to take a look at it under a bright light. It was just using my fingernail, perhaps a bit aggressively, to pick at the corner.
That is what I was afraid of. Also, when looking close, it looks damaged. I was usinf my fingernail at the corner to try to find the screen protector and there is a very thin plastic shield at the top that I though was the protection. I pulled at it a little but not that hard. It peeled up a bit. Looking at it I think they may object to the return. I may see if they will accept the return and will call BB tomorrow.

When you received yours, was there a screen protector on it?

See image attached...
I will give BB a call and see if they will allow the return. Hopefully the fact that I purchased it 2 days ago will help my cause.

I don't know about the C7, but I can say that the C9 is gorgeous. I can only image what the 77" would look like (I purchased the 65").
Seeing the pic, there had to be an issue there before hand. There had to be slight delamination before you touched it, sure you may have made it a tad worse, but there was an issue prior. The only way you do not get an exchange is if you talk the rep out of it, do not talk the rep out of the return ;)
 

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How exactly do I do that with 1x? Turn off 4k and go from there?
I recommend you visit this thread if you haven't already: Spears & Munsil UHD HDR Benchmark Disc - Discussion.

Also visit Getting started with the UltraHD Benchmark on the Spears & Munsil website, and look for the section "SDR First, Then HDR."

The disc has an “SDR 709” menu section. It's near the bottom in the main menu. This will allow you to evaluate and adjust SDR in 4k.
Yeah I've been reading. Just hard to figure out where to start.
 

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Q

Hi, everyone:

After 13 years, my Panny 42" plasma is getting long in the tooth (ya' think?), but with a possible family room reno coming I could be in the market for a new TV this fall.

I'm out of the loop on all the tech that's been developed in the past decade (UHD, OLED, QLED, etc.), but the C9 55" looks great (and not obscenely expensive). However, I'm wary of OLED (which like any new-ish tech, will have teething problems as it matures). There seems to be lots of FUD out there relating to burn-in (part of the reno could include an XBox for the kids), short lifespan (I've read customer reviews of sets going green after only 3 years), and the general fragile nature of OLED tech.

What's true and what is truly FUD?

Sorry if this a dumb post. I will delete it and flee if I've violated any kind of forum rules.

A.F.
 

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That is what I was afraid of. Also, when looking close, it looks damaged. I was usinf my fingernail at the corner to try to find the screen protector and there is a very thin plastic shield at the top that I though was the protection. I pulled at it a little but not that hard. It peeled up a bit. Looking at it I think they may object to the return. I may see if they will accept the return and will call BB tomorrow.

When you received yours, was there a screen protector on it?

See image attached...

You peeled part of the screen. :(:(


That's the protective film for the glass which is different from the film used to protect the tv during shipping...
 

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After 13 years, my Panny 42" plasma is getting long in the tooth
I had a 42" 720p Panny that I bought in 2007, the C9 blows it out of the water. Even if you have the 1080p version.

There seems to be lots of FUD out there relating to burn-in (part of the reno could include an XBox for the kids)
Burn-in becomes less of an issue every year, just like with plasma. If your 13 year old Panny doesn't have burn-in, I wouldn't be worried. The only thing to be cautious about is not letting your kids play the same game for 100s of hours straight. Make them take a break and watch tv, movies or a different game on occasion.

short lifespan (I've read customer reviews of sets going green after only 3 years)
If you are running the tv for 12+ hours/day, it will get a bit dimmer after a few years. But, even then, if you are running it that many hours/day, you are still getting your moneys worth out of it.

and the general fragile nature of OLED tech.
Your Panny has a glass front on it, but it survived 13 years. Unboxing and setting your tv in its place is the riskiest time. Don't drop your new OLED, don't let your kids play baseball inside, you should be fine.

What's true and what is truly FUD?
Mostly FUD. OLED looks great, but it truly shines in a dark room. QLED can look better in a bright room, but it has other issues. The vast majority of people in this thread have been very happy with their C9, and most of us are tech savvy people who are very picky about our audio/video toys.

Unless you get unlucky and get a tv with some serious issues (which can happen with any of the tv technologies), you should be very happy with a C9. And, if you get a bad one, return it for a new one.
 
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Hi, everyone:

After 13 years, my Panny 42" plasma is getting long in the tooth (ya' think?), but with a possible family room reno coming I could be in the market for a new TV this fall.

I'm out of the loop on all the tech that's been developed in the past decade (UHD, OLED, QLED, etc.), but the C9 55" looks great (and not obscenely expensive). However, I'm wary of OLED (which like any new-ish tech, will have teething problems as it matures). There seems to be lots of FUD out there relating to burn-in (part of the reno could include an XBox for the kids), short lifespan (I've read customer reviews of sets going green after only 3 years), and the general fragile nature of OLED tech.

What's true and what is truly FUD?

Sorry if this a dumb post. I will delete it and flee if I've violated any kind of forum rules.

A.F.
I've been playing rocket league for a while now, which has a huge fugly boost meter (red colour burns more easily, and it did burn my plasma), and it's all fine.
Vincent Teoh made a video recently, he also found it clean.

I think you'll be fine. But allow me to digress - unless you will be sitting extremely near the tv, i think you should also seriously consider a 65 (be it LG or not).
 

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I got some questions for you:
Ever since I got my C9 I watched like 20 Blu-Rays in SDR (my UHD-Player should arrive within the next few days :D).
While watching a movie I turn all my light sources off.

At first I was using the ISF Expert Dark Room Setting as it is. I lowered OLED Light to around 35.
While watching The Amazing Spiderman I had the feeling that blacks were crushed. Details in darker areas were
simply missing. Then I started to increase OLED Light. Even with OLED Light 100 was not that much better.

In my next step I switched to ISF Expert Bright Room (even though I was sitting in a dark room).
Once again I lowered OLED Light to 35. Turns out with this picture modes details in darker areas were much better.
Even better than ISF Dark Room with OLED Light 100...

After reading the recommended settings on RTINGS I noticed that they were using ISF Dark Room with Gamma 2.2 instead of BT.1886.
Now I compared ISF Dark Room vs. Light Room while both picture presets were set to Gamma 2.2. Surprise. Now there is zero
loss in black details between Dark Room. Unfortunately I still have the feeling that I am missing some details in darker areas. At least from time to time. Increasing the Peak Brightness to Minimum will make this even better. But I do not think that this is an option I am supposed to use in SDR?

I already tried to adjust contrast/OLED Light with test patterns. But I always end up increasing/decreasing the brightness slider on my OLED. Which ruins the
picture even more. That is why I leave it at 50. With OLED Light and Contrast I am simply not able to hit reference blacks and whites. Then I do but best. But I usually see black/white bars in those images that I am not supposed to see. But that is another story I guess.

So now I decided to use RTINGS settings for now. With Peak Brightness set to off. But I do not get the point with Gamma 2.4/BT.1886.
I know that those settings will darken the image. With my old Panasonic television I never had the feeling that I lose that much details when using Gamma 2.4. As a matter of fact I am still using Gamma 2.4 on my Panasonic LCD because it just looks better in dark room. So yea. I never had a Plasma or OLED before. Is it normal that blacks appear to be more dominant on these televisions?
 

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I got some questions for you:

Ever since I got my C9 I watched like 20 Blu-Rays in SDR (my UHD-Player should arrive within the next few days :D).

While watching a movie I turn all my light sources off.



At first I was using the ISF Expert Dark Room Setting as it is. I lowered OLED Light to around 35.

While watching The Amazing Spiderman I had the feeling that blacks were crushed. Details in darker areas were

simply missing. Then I started to increase OLED Light. Even with OLED Light 100 was not that much better.



In my next step I switched to ISF Expert Bright Room (even though I was sitting in a dark room).

Once again I lowered OLED Light to 35. Turns out with this picture modes details in darker areas were much better.

Even better than ISF Dark Room with OLED Light 100...



After reading the recommended settings on RTINGS I noticed that they were using ISF Dark Room with Gamma 2.2 instead of BT.1886.

Now I compared ISF Dark Room vs. Light Room while both picture presets were set to Gamma 2.2. Surprise. Now there is zero

loss in black details between Dark Room. Unfortunately I still have the feeling that I am missing some details in darker areas. At least from time to time. Increasing the Peak Brightness to Minimum will make this even better. But I do not think that this is an option I am supposed to use in SDR?



I already tried to adjust contrast/OLED Light with test patterns. But I always end up increasing/decreasing the brightness slider on my OLED. Which ruins the

picture even more. That is why I leave it at 50. With OLED Light and Contrast I am simply not able to hit reference blacks and whites. Then I do but best. But I usually see black/white bars in those images that I am not supposed to see. But that is another story I guess.



So now I decided to use RTINGS settings for now. With Peak Brightness set to off. But I do not get the point with Gamma 2.4/BT.1886.

I know that those settings will darken the image. With my old Panasonic television I never had the feeling that I lose that much details when using Gamma 2.4. As a matter of fact I am still using Gamma 2.4 on my Panasonic LCD because it just looks better in dark room. So yea. I never had a Plasma or OLED before. Is it normal that blacks appear to be more dominant on these televisions?


How many hours and have you done a pixel refresh?

Here is how my 10% slide looked out of the box before a pixel refresh. I was getting black crush all the way over 10% on part of the screen initially and my 5% slide was completely dark. Here is what my 10 looked initially and now my 5% and 10% are clean and look like the proper grey.

Edit- but if you have watched 20 movies you should of had a bunch of auto cycles clear it up. One think I also noticed when calibrating via the Xbox calibration, in order to have the proper brightness where the closed eye just disappears I had to have brightness at 54.




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How many hours and have you done a pixel refresh?
Probably around 100 to 150 hours. I have not run a manual compensaction cycle yet. Only
the small cycles after my TV went into standby
This my OLED with 10% grey (settings as recommended in the Uniformity Thread):


From what I can tell this looks pretty decent. I am going to watch some more movies.
Let's see how they will look.
 

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Probably around 100 to 150 hours. I have not run a manual compensaction cycle yet. Only

the small cycles after my TV went into standby

This my OLED with 10% grey (settings as recommended in the Uniformity Thread):






From what I can tell this looks pretty decent. I am going to watch some more movies.

Let's see how they will look.


Yeah, that definitely isn't the issue then, thought I would throw it out there cause my blacks were being crushed like crazy. Here was mine after the refresh, crazy the difference.
 
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