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Found the change log, and it seems this is the only fix (using Google Translate):

Improved delay time of HDMI ARC audio output when TV off / on (03.60.45)

Nothing about Gsync as far as I can see, sadly.
Well, this is actually something that most users will appreciate. Glad to see that they (hopefully) fixed this issue!!!
 
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I have the option but it’s greyed out. Can’t select DEVICE LIST either. I have the PUA. Don’t have the dongle.
My AUA has no such option.

I'm surprised this didn't come up before when all the discussions around "do all versions have WiSA" were happening. This is pretty conclusive, IMO. AUA's do not support WiSA.

I read an article yesterday about Klipsch is releasing WiSA speakers. From the looks of it, at least with that manufacturer, it's not an inexpensive choice, the 5.1 version expected to sell for around $1K. And, they also touched on the audio sync concerns, too.

Since I have no plans for audio other than the sound-bar with my display, WiSA is a non-issue to me. I would like to hear some reports from folks with PUA's who try WiSA, though :) Seems like a cool idea, if it works and sounds good.
 

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In terms of C9 from top to bottom comparison being almost 100nits difference, I would say thats pretty significant. As I said in my question which you answered and provided this data in support, my current set is much noticeably dimmer than the last. The data you have is in regard to peak brightness, but how does this translate to real content viewing? I may be misunderstanding the tables, but the third row down is peak brightness but it looks like the numbers become much closer in comparison right around the 30 to 50 range according to the table. So in really bright highlights some tvs are really outperforming others but in terms of general overall picture brightness in terms of real scene viewing, what numbers in the range would translate to what would be a typical scene in a movie?


Im not sure why I'm struggling to word this, but hopefully you understand what I'm trying to get at here.

Overall I am happy with the pq, but it's hard to determine just using your eyes the difference between peak brightness at a 5% window, but in my case the overall picture in real content viewing seems noticeably less bright than the previous. Its barely watchable during the day even with the blinds closed (my blinds let in some light).
Unless you have "trained" eyes, you wouldn't be able to see the difference of 50 or so nits. 100 nits, maybe but usually you need another set side by side to make the comparison. This is because as you say, the variation in brightness is going to vary with the content. I believe you are seeing a difference but I think at this point it's how you are perceiving what you remember to what you have right now. The only other thing I can think of is the first or the second set might be out of calibration making the difference in white make the picture look brighter or dimmer. So if your second set is pushing red, which a lot do recently, the picture may appear warmer and less bright than the first set in addition to any peak brightness difference.
So now I'm wondering if my set is actually dimmer than the last or if I have just a different variation. After changing the white balance to be less warm and more cool, yes, things appear brighter. I think the real difference between this set and previous is maybe how the grays ale is observed. Highlights seem very vibrant in sdr and even in HDR, but any dark scene just appears overly dark. When there is a scene with medium or low lighting, the highlights are vibrant, but items in scene appear to have less shadow detail and I think 8 may be experiencing black crush that was not observed on the previous set. Is it possible to have 2 tvs with similar peak brightness but have one appear less bright due to black crush or lack in shadow detail? Essentially, would calibrating the TV alleviate this issue? Additionally, do you want to come to Michigan and calibrate my set LOL!
 

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The October/November issue of Sound & Vision did a feature on the Sony. There were a few references to the LG (E9) throughout. In the end, they concluded that the Sony was "a nose better" than the LG. Subjective? Of course. But, it still seems too close to call and personal preference is usually the deciding factor.

Nothing new here. Both displays are great and not much else even comes close.
 

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I have been occasionally seeing similar activity, sound staying with the previous input after changing. I'm attributing it to the same xfinity cable box HDMI handshake issue I'm experiencing. Hoping that firmware updates on the HDMI 2.1capabilities eventually fix this. Other than trying a new cable and ensuring all settings on all devices are synced, I don't think there's much else to be done.

Yes......all those are set properly............The cable box and Blu Ray player are connected to the TV from the receiver ARC to the TV input with ARC. I CAN hear sound from the cable channels and Blu Ray player. However, the TV itself has apps installed.....when I go to THOSE, I get NO sound from any of them. As a matter of fact, if I switch from a cable tv channel to say like Netflix, I can see the picture from Netflix, but the SOUND is still the sound coming from the cable tv channel.

I can hear the sound of the TV's internal apps only if I switch the sound output to the TV's internal speakers, but that of course isn't as good as the sound coming from my Home Theater system. All help is appreciated.
 

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I have been occasionally seeing similar activity, sound staying with the previous input after changing. I'm attributing it to the same xfinity cable box HDMI handshake issue I'm experiencing. Hoping that firmware updates on the HDMI 2.1capabilities eventually fix this. Other than trying a new cable and ensuring all settings on all devices are synced, I don't think there's much else to be done.
Quite possibly the cable. There might be an issue with one, or both of his HDMI cables.

I have an Xfinity X1 (new version w/4K) and it is connected to HDMI 1. My sound bar is connected to HDMI 2 (ARC). We switch back & forth between cable & Netflix & Amazon & YouTube all evening. I even have a USB stick that I use to bring content to the display.

There is no problem with the audio following whatever is displayed. Granted, the only external input is the X1 box in my configuration.
 

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I've recently been having issues with HDMI handshake between the C9 and my Denon AVR. Almost daily when I turn them "On", I get a "No Signal" screen on the TV. I then have to power cycle either the AVR or the TV to get a signal back on the TV. Does this indicate a bad HDMI cable? I didn't have this problem (at least as often) as within the last few weeks.
I had the same issue with a brand new C9 running through a marantz sr6012. No issues with the TV that was replaced. I switched to a new input which seems to be working. One thing I did notice was that it would do that most often when using a firetv stick and leaving it on the home page or pauses show after just a couple minutes. Instead of getting the firetv picture slideshow I would get the no image from source screen. I think it's a bad HDMI input on the TV on my set.
 

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Found the change log, and it seems this is the only fix (using Google Translate):

Ⓕ Improved delay time of HDMI ARC audio output when TV off / on (03.60.45)

Nothing about Gsync as far as I can see, sadly.
They said "in the coming weeks" 5(?) weeks ago and the newest beta firmware doesn't have anything about it? They're still advertising the TV as GSYNC and asking support for an update results in "we have no information about firmware updates".

It says "GSYNC Compatible" on Amazon and Best Buy. That's pure false advertisement and I will be demanding a partial refund if it isn't out this month. The 77" TV is $500 cheaper now than what I paid for it a month ago and I would have never upgraded yet if it wasn't for GSYNC announcement.
 

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Hello there!

I was bored.
That is why I downloaded the Alexa App from the LG Content Store to use Alexa.

Everything worked well so far. But I ran into something really interesting:

- If I talk to my "LG Alexa" I have to press the Prime Video button. So far so good.
Alexa understands me and everything is good.

- Now I got bored and wanted to see what happens if I press the "Prime Video button" (I programmed a button for that) on my Logitech Harmony Elite.
Long pressing the button shows that Alexa is ready to listen as well. Surprisingly I was able to talk to "LG Alexa". She even understood what I was telling her.

I do not want to say that I was shocked. But I was shocked. I thought that I had to use the original Magic Remote in order to give voice commands to my TV...
After 20 or 30 the TV always gave me a message that the "connection between the mic and the TV is unstable". Now it did not work anymore. No Alexa-is-ready-logo.

After a couple of more tries I put my Magic Remote in another room after I talked to my "LG Alexa" once again.
The "Alexa is ready to talk to you" button in the bottom right corner popped up. But she did not understand me.

My guess is:
The microphone and/or connection between TV and Magic Remote stays active for like 20 or 30 more seconds even though there is no sign of the mic still being active.
(real Alexa always gives you a visible light if the microphone is recording).
 

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They said "in the coming weeks" 5(?) weeks ago and the newest beta firmware doesn't have anything about it? They're still advertising the TV as GSYNC and asking support for an update results in "we have no information about firmware updates".

It says "GSYNC Compatible" on Amazon and Best Buy. That's pure false advertisement and I will be demanding a partial refund if it isn't out this month. The 77" TV is $500 cheaper now than what I paid for it a month ago and I would have never upgraded yet if it wasn't for GSYNC announcement.
On the LG website, it specifically states that G-SYNC will be "available with a firmware update later in 2019". See attached.

Considering that it is only October, they do have a little more time to meet their commitment.
 

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Forgive me if this is not the right place for this question but I’ve searched high and low.....

Previous OLED generations and guidance via the web indicates a setting of 50 for OLED when using Dolby Vision. I have seen no OLED Dolby Vision guidance for 2019 C9 panels - other than to use the default settings which I do.

My 77 C9 seems to default to an OLED Light setting of 100 (using Cinema mode) when watching Dolby Vision content.

What is right 50 or 100 for OLED Light setting when watching Dolby Vision content on new C9 OLED panels???

Thanks
 

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Forgive me if this is not the right place for this question but I’ve searched high and low.....



Previous OLED generations and guidance via the web indicates a setting of 50 for OLED when using Dolby Vision. I have seen no OLED Dolby Vision guidance for 2019 C9 panels - other than to use the default settings which I do.



My 77 C9 seems to default to an OLED Light setting of 100 (using Cinema mode) when watching Dolby Vision content.



What is right 50 or 100 for OLED Light setting when watching Dolby Vision content on new C9 OLED panels???



Thanks
50 was right for prior model TV's

According to multiple calibrators online, this year's LG models, 100 is correct & if I'm not mistaken is actually the same as 50 in the past.

Just watch Darko or Vincent Teo calibration videos and they explain it

TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch
 

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I'd have thought the firmware and any Nvidia drivers would be ready to go as of September when the Toms Hardware article came out (clearly it was working behind closed doors for media). So either the firmware still isn't launch-ready or they are waiting to release it for some reason. If it was ready you would think they'd have included it in the very next firmware update, which would be this one from today. I'm relieved I no longer have to be concerned about it but hopefully they get it out sooner rather than later for those who are waiting; I know there are a lot of folks really pining for it.
 

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Any gamers out there who game On the C9 but don’t turn on the logo luminance adjustment setting to low or high and just leave it off. Am I taking a risk with burn in or as long as I vary my content I should be fine.
 

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50 was right for prior model TV's

According to multiple calibrators online, this year's LG models, 100 is correct & if I'm not mistaken is actually the same as 50 in the past.

Just watch Darko or Vincent Teo calibration videos and they explain it

TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch
Found this info buried in the last few minutes of the Vincent Teo C9 calibration video. You are correct 100 is the correct and default setting for OLED Light with Dolby Vision content for 2019 C9 panels - a change for this year.

Thank you!!! :D
 

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Any gamers out there who game On the C9 but don’️t turn on the logo luminance adjustment setting to low or high and just leave it off. Am I taking a risk with burn in or as long as I vary my content I should be fine.
I don’t think that setting works for gaming.
Anyway I game with it on the default settings which should be LOW and I don’t notice any dim menus or HUD....
 

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I don’t think that setting works for gaming.
Anyway I game with it on the default settings which should be LOW and I don’t notice any dim menus or HUD....
Correct me if I'm wrong but I thought it was mainly for gaming due to stationary logos. For my C8 I did keep it on low settings. I might just do the same on the C9 and call it a day.
 

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I just bought thw Klipsch 2019 series and the axiim link, it works perfectly. I do however want to know if you use them with the 2019 LG C9 OLED, with a blu ray player, playing a movie with DTS-HD MA sound is it playing true lossless sound? As it only appears as “DTS” on my tv display. Furthermore, maybe if I switch the output to PCM, would it play true lossless sound? Or maybe it already is, but the LG only displays DTS?
 

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Any gamers out there who game On the C9 but don’t turn on the logo luminance adjustment setting to low or high and just leave it off. Am I taking a risk with burn in or as long as I vary my content I should be fine.
My E6 didn't have that feature and I put 17,000 hours on it mostly in-games. I also had pixel shift and ABSL disabled. On the C9, I am leaving pixel shift on (it's less aggressive than the E6) and setting logo luminance to low because it's barely noticeable and better to be safe. I plan to keep this longer than the E6.

If you are playing a game for 12 hours a day, multiple days in a row, then might want to set it to high.
 

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How do I find out the current frame rate of the signal I am viewing? When I press the ... button the remote and click the Info option, it does not show the current frame rate.
 
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