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Multichannel eARC is supposed to come next year. Right now, connecting two HDMI cables from the card seems the only way to get multichannel PCM. That is, one to the TV directly and one to the receiver. That seems to work just fine.
Too bad that my Gainward 2080ti has just one HDMI port, like most of the cards. So now there is nothing i can do except waiting?
 

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Too bad that my Gainward 2080ti has just one HDMI port, like most of the cards. So now there is nothing i can do except waiting?
You use onboard HDMI to receiver (for sound only) and GPU HDMI to TV. Then you set it up as 2 monitors as extended in windows. It's either that or don't use VRR/GSYNC and go through a receiver.

Sadly, that's our only options until HDMI 2.1 receivers come out. Hopefully they put 2x HDMI 2.1 on the 3080Ti.
 

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Too bad that my Gainward 2080ti has just one HDMI port, like most of the cards. So now there is nothing i can do except waiting?
You can do as many of us have done buy a cheap DP to HDMI adapter, even 1.4 works, and then send a second 1080p signal to the receiver as a second monitor, capable of receiving a 7.1 (and ATMOS) LPCM signal, and connect the 2080 directly to the TV. It's the best way as VRR/4K120Hz receivers will be stupidly expensive the next years
 

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Damn, feeling so stupid, have not thought about using my motherboard HDMI port. LOL. Thx guys.
 

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I get 4k 66hz @ YCbCr 4.4.4 via my Denon X7200WA. Seems like your receiver isn't great for PC usage. Try direct connection and see if it works as intended.



It's the first GSYNC OLED 4K120hz display. PC Gamers are going to flock, it's only going to get more and more gaming focused I think. Its bar none the best gaming display on the market in my opinion, and the 55" isn't much more than the best gaming monitors which still have far inferior PQ.

Done that, cabled direct and it remains the same, so now I am considering it's perhaps one of the following that is the issue.


1] AMD drivers (since most here are talking Nvidia cards it seems)

2] Length of HDMI cable run, which is from the PC to the C9, 15m, causing the pixel format to drop to 4.2.0


checking with a shorter run of cable is not easy, as the PC is wired up to loads of other stuff in a dedicated room away from the room the C9 is in...hmmm.

Also, even when cabled direct, when trying to set the desktop to 1440p, the 'active signal resolution' in windows still comes out at 4k (so obviously the Marantz is not responsible for that desktop and active signal res difference showing up in Windows)
 

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What would lead you to believe that 4k 120hz isn't capable on a set that supports HDMI 2.1?

Well within spec so no reason for it not to. To continually post about your long returned set just because you bought it knowing there's no HDMI 2.1 sources out yet is kind of silly.
I bought it with the hopes that 4K/120hz @ 4:2:0 would become a thing in 2019 as it is on the Samsung. Doesn't seem to be likely, hence returned it before I was "stuck" with it. I only picked it up in an attempt to have 4K/120hz immediately in 2019. I'm sorry that bothers some people. I don't need to excuse myself for that.

You need a source that support HDMI 2.1 genius you should've already known this but once the 3000 series Nvidia cards drop they'll be HDMI 2.1 next time educate yourself google is your friend
:rolleyes:

You seem like a very pleasant individual! Hope your day gets better.
 

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Done that, cabled direct and it remains the same, so now I am considering it's perhaps one of the following that is the issue.


1] AMD drivers (since most here are talking Nvidia cards it seems)

2] Length of HDMI cable run, which is from the PC to the C9, 15m, causing the pixel format to drop to 4.2.0


checking with a shorter run of cable is not easy, as the PC is wired up to loads of other stuff in a dedicated room away from the room the C9 is in...hmmm.

Also, even when cabled direct, when trying to set the desktop to 1440p, the 'active signal resolution' in windows still comes out at 4k (so obviously the Marantz is not responsible for that desktop and active signal res difference showing up in Windows)
Just to let you know, it only works with Nvidia. It was made just for Nvidia.

Amd will not work unless software and driver's are made for their cards.

TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch
 

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This thread is like a windows support forum now.
It is really getting out of control. Something has to be done.

I have been politely requesting the Mods to get the gaming posts out of this thread and into a dedicated thread for "Gaming On The C-E9". They are going largely unanswered.

Perhaps if enough people would also do the same, we can get thread back on topic. Just click on REPORT for every gaming post and ask them to create another thread, move all of the gaming conversations there and (most importantly) make this thread a NO GAMING TALK ALLOWED.

If enough people request that, hopefully we can make it happen.
 

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Just to let you know, it only works with Nvidia. It was made just for Nvidia.

Amd will not work unless software and driver's are made for their cards.

TV - LG C9, C8 & C6 - AVR - Pioneer SC-LX502, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Switch

Ahh, as suspected, it's drivers then, AMD is limited to 4k 8 bit @60hz YCbCr 4.2.0. Which will come first then I wonder, me being able to splash out on a next gen HDMI 2.1 GPU, or AMD releasing drivers that can finally do that ?:)
 

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what percentage is that? 20 percent grey?
Yes that was at 20%
I am going to run some more percentages tonight and see how the rest look as well
How many hours do you have on the set? Like five! You need at least a hundred hours to start doing these kind of tests. You're totally wasting your time. If you want to do something, find some content to play on the TV to accelerate the time for your TV to settle in...and it WILL improve. Just make sure you turn off the set every 5 hours or so, so the TV can do its thing and cycle the screen.
 

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Yes that was at 20%
I am going to run some more percentages tonight and see how the rest look as well

Check that. I've got visible vertical zones in the left side of the display as well as a fingerprint sized spot that are visible whenever there's that specific gray in the image.
 

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Can anyone recommend a really flush wall mount for the C9? I don't care about being able to do anything with it other than maybe tilt a bit to get my hand back there. The front door and hallway put you on a direct path with the side of the wall the TV will be mounted on so I want it as flush as possible. I will route everything through my receiver so there should only be one HDMI cable going to the TV.
https://www.amazon.com/05319-Monitor-800x400-143lbs-Panasonic/dp/B007HQW0HQ

My E9 is mounted on this - same deal as you too, front door and hallway leade directly to the wall the tv is mounted on. There is some play where you can tilt the bottom of the tv forward to access the back panel.

Keep in mind though that you mount will only be as flush as the thickness of the hardware box at the bottom of the screen - so there will always be space between the upper 3/4 of the panel and the wall.

Edit: mine is a 65". If your C9 is 77", this mount may or may not work.
 

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How many hours do you have on the set? Like five! You need at least a hundred hours to start doing these kind of tests. You're totally wasting your time. If you want to do something, find some content to play on the TV to accelerate the time for your TV to settle in...and it WILL improve. Just make sure you turn off the set every 5 hours or so, so the TV can do its thing and cycle the screen.
Yeah I have very few hours. I didn't expect to notice any banding during normal usage, but I did so I loaded up the grey screen.
I don't want to end up going past my return period and being stuck with this TV. If it will actually go away great, but if it is always there and expected behavior I will return it. I went with OLED because I was tired of DSE on LCD, but the vertical banding on this TV is just as bad as DES while watching hockey...
 

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In terms of C9 from top to bottom comparison being almost 100nits difference, I would say thats pretty significant. As I said in my question which you answered and provided this data in support, my current set is much noticeably dimmer than the last. The data you have is in regard to peak brightness, but how does this translate to real content viewing? I may be misunderstanding the tables, but the third row down is peak brightness but it looks like the numbers become much closer in comparison right around the 30 to 50 range according to the table. So in really bright highlights some tvs are really outperforming others but in terms of general overall picture brightness in terms of real scene viewing, what numbers in the range would translate to what would be a typical scene in a movie?


Im not sure why I'm struggling to word this, but hopefully you understand what I'm trying to get at here.

Overall I am happy with the pq, but it's hard to determine just using your eyes the difference between peak brightness at a 5% window, but in my case the overall picture in real content viewing seems noticeably less bright than the previous. Its barely watchable during the day even with the blinds closed (my blinds let in some light).
Unless you have "trained" eyes, you wouldn't be able to see the difference of 50 or so nits. 100 nits, maybe but usually you need another set side by side to make the comparison. This is because as you say, the variation in brightness is going to vary with the content. I believe you are seeing a difference but I think at this point it's how you are perceiving what you remember to what you have right now. The only other thing I can think of is the first or the second set might be out of calibration making the difference in white make the picture look brighter or dimmer. So if your second set is pushing red, which a lot do recently, the picture may appear warmer and less bright than the first set in addition to any peak brightness difference.
What causes red push? Panel or board? Thanks!
 

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It is really getting out of control. Something has to be done.

I have been politely requesting the Mods to get the gaming posts out of this thread and into a dedicated thread for "Gaming On The C-E9". They are going largely unanswered.

Perhaps if enough people would also do the same, we can get thread back on topic. Just click on REPORT for every gaming post and ask them to create another thread, move all of the gaming conversations there and (most importantly) make this thread a NO GAMING TALK ALLOWED.

If enough people request that, hopefully we can make it happen.

Do you know that sound your car makes when you don't plug your seat-belt in?... you know, that really annoying 'meep-meep-meep' sound. That's what I hear now Steve, every time you post one of your 'anti-gamer' pitch-fork driven rhetorics* about the great unwashed posting in your forum thread.

I calculate this as being (give or take) approx every other post... and most certainly always after someone else says something even remotely negative about PC usage on a display which was of course "never designed for gaming as its primary use case" (cause Steve doesn't game) and is hence wholly irrelevant content for discussion on a C9 owners forum.

Coincidentally I'm thinking of emailing the admin and (equally politely of course) asking them if they can get all 'annoying meepy car seat-belt noise' posts out of this thread and into a dedicated 'meep-meep' only thread, so that they may meep to each other, fully 'on-topic' and in perpetuity.

...this meeping is totally out of control people... out of control I tell you. Most importantly, make a stand, please report all meeping (and pesky meepers) and let's make this thread back on track + labelled as 'NO MEEP, MEEPERS or MEEPING ALLOWED!'


(*Def: language designed to have a persuasive or impressive effect, but which is often regarded as lacking in sincerity or meaningful content).
 

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It is really getting out of control. Something has to be done.

I have been politely requesting the Mods to get the gaming posts out of this thread and into a dedicated thread for "Gaming On The C-E9". They are going largely unanswered.

Perhaps if enough people would also do the same, we can get thread back on topic. Just click on REPORT for every gaming post and ask them to create another thread, move all of the gaming conversations there and (most importantly) make this thread a NO GAMING TALK ALLOWED.

If enough people request that, hopefully we can make it happen.

There is already a thread made for you to post in
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/40-oled-technology-flat-panels-general/2962154-2018-lg-c8-e8-owners-thread-no-price-talk.html


C9 - gaming features = C8
 

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Is this guy really crying about people discussing one of the use cases for the display (gaming)?

I mean 50% of posts in every TV sub in this forum consists of people having some sound or HDMI handshake issue with their AVR. How is that any different than people discussing compatibility issues with their PC on a TV heavily advertised for it's PC centric features.

This is about enthusiasts gathering to inform one another.
 

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