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Hey guys!


I just picked up the 55" C9, yeah! She's going into my bedroom (tempted to put her in my living room and move my Sony 65"A1E OLED into the bedroom). 65" may be too much screen/brightness in the bedroom when watching TV though.


As a complete noob with this stuff should i just follow the RTings settings and i'm good to go? With my Sony A1E i leave it on Cinema Pro....what's best practice for the C9?


I can't wait to set it up later and compare her to my Sony OLED. I want to thank my wife for being a badass and saying "yes, whatever" to make the purchase for a gaming TV in the bedroom.


Usage will be 70% Netflix/Prime TV shows (not movies) and 30% Xbox One X gaming. Thanks for any tips/hints. I'm starting to read this owners thread...on page 2 of 306 (not sure how much i will get done today).
 

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Guys I've scheduled with LG to have the mainboard on my TV replaced due to continued occasional "black screen" on some of my HDMI inputs.

I assume when this happens my TV is going to be reset back to factory so I will need to record all of my picture settings.

Is there anything else I should be aware of in preparation for this kind of repair?
 

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Hey guys!


I just picked up the 55" C9, yeah! She's going into my bedroom (tempted to put her in my living room and move my Sony 65"A1E OLED into the bedroom). 65" may be too much screen/brightness in the bedroom when watching TV though.


As a complete noob with this stuff should i just follow the RTings settings and i'm good to go? With my Sony A1E i leave it on Cinema Pro....what's best practice for the C9?


I can't wait to set it up later and compare her to my Sony OLED. I want to thank my wife for being a badass and saying "yes, whatever" to make the purchase for a gaming TV in the bedroom.


Usage will be 70% Netflix/Prime TV shows (not movies) and 30% Xbox One X gaming. Thanks for any tips/hints. I'm starting to read this owners thread...on page 2 of 306 (not sure how much i will get done today).
Most accurate to actual calibrated sets is ISF Dark, ISF light is very good too




LG C9, C8, C6 w/Pioneer SC-LX502 AVR, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Nintendo Switch
 

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Netlfix and other streamers have much more limitations than HDMI connection. HDMI 2.0b is what 18Gbit/s, Netflix wants to send you 10 bit 4k HDR video on about 25Mbit/s internet connection. You can bet they are using all sorts of lossy compression tecniques to bring the bit rate down, 4:2:0 is a lot lighter on HEVC encoders, and gets you better quality encodes for the same (low) bitrate, you can bet they are using 4:2:0.
That's the thing. This is how it is supposed to be as said by the other guy.

But in reality, looking at the HDMI information from the LG Secret Menu tells you another story. It's 4:4:4 8-bit for SDR videos. Not the menu. You can try being in HDR mode all the time and all in the Apple menu, as long as you turn on Content Matching, 8 bit 4:4:4 is what you'll get for SDR videos.
With content matching On, HDR videos will be in BT.2020 automatically even if you are on 4:4:4 SDR on the Apple menu.

If you disable Content Match, then of cos you can get 4:2:0 but whether it is accurate or not is another thing.

Looks like they are using lossy encoding elsewhere and not on the chroma value specifically.
 

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Guys I've scheduled with LG to have the mainboard on my TV replaced due to continued occasional "black screen" on some of my HDMI inputs.

I assume when this happens my TV is going to be reset back to factory so I will need to record all of my picture settings.

Is there anything else I should be aware of in preparation for this kind of repair?


Make sure you are not logged in in Apps like Netflix etc.. Resetting your TV to factory defaults is the fastest way when you are logged in into multiple Apps. Who knows what they are going to do with the old mainboard...

Other than that there is no need to worry. The repair guys will take care of the rest.
 

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Gee who could have predicted there would be issues when you wait until the last minute to release the app

It’s working on my Fire Stick though so it appears to be an LG issue
Firestick is such a cheap solution...... works fine over here.

Guys I've scheduled with LG to have the mainboard on my TV replaced due to continued occasional "black screen" on some of my HDMI inputs.

I assume when this happens my TV is going to be reset back to factory so I will need to record all of my picture settings.

Is there anything else I should be aware of in preparation for this kind of repair?
Yep, you will need your settings, you may need to tweak them again too.
 

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That's the thing. This is how it is supposed to be as said by the other guy.

But in reality, looking at the HDMI information from the LG Secret Menu tells you another story. It's 4:4:4 8-bit for SDR videos. Not the menu. You can try being in HDR mode all the time and all in the Apple menu, as long as you turn on Content Matching, 8 bit 4:4:4 is what you'll get for SDR videos.
With content matching On, HDR videos will be in BT.2020 automatically even if you are on 4:4:4 SDR on the Apple menu.

If you disable Content Match, then of cos you can get 4:2:0 but whether it is accurate or not is another thing.

Looks like they are using lossy encoding elsewhere and not on the chroma value specifically.
I'm not convinced the content was encoded in 4:4:4 just because Apple's "content matching" setting outputs such. It just doesn't make sense. UHD bluray bitrates and optical disk read speeds are MUCH higher than the typical internet speeds the streamers target. but bluray uses 4:2:0 because it saves the encoder from wasting bitrate on less noticable chroma data and therefore can use more bitrate to avoid noticable macro blocking on fast motion, 10 bit color, etc. Streamers are even more bitrate constrained, I just can't believe they would use 4:4:4 in even their SDR encodes.

If I had to guess, Apple's content matching output's 4:4:4 in SDR because it doesn't try to autodetect the chroma value of the content, and just outputs 4:4:4 as the safe output choice. Upconverting 4:2:0 to 4:4:4 is a lossless zero padding process, the quality will match exactly the 4:2:0 source with no improvement and no loss. So there is no downside to using 4:4:4 when there are no HDMI limits to worry about (as is the case with 8bit SDR @4k).
 

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Just purchased the 55" C9. It was delivered last Friday and I spent a lot of time trying to find the best user settings for my setup. The main source is Directv, but I did pick up a 4K player. The only disc I own at the moment is the Spears and Munsil UHD test disc. When viewing the demonstration material, I have to be honest, it doesn't look any better than any 1080 source. When choosing DV or HDR, it looks the same as the SDR choices.
I borrowed a 4K disc and it too looks underwhelming. The same holds true for the Home page APPs, netflix or Amazon Prime. The HDR logo appears on screen, but it doesn't look any better than HD.

Is there something that need to be implemented in any setting that will improve what I am seeing with HDR sources?

I had a Sony 55" A9G and even though there were some problems with it and it was returned, overall, I think the picture quality was a tad bit better.

Prior to either of these OLEDs I owned a Pioneer Elite Kuro. It was a real gem and I'm kicking myself for selling it.
 

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I'm not convinced the content was encoded in 4:4:4 just because Apple's "content matching" setting outputs such. It just doesn't make sense. UHD bluray bitrates and optical disk read speeds are MUCH higher than the typical internet speeds the streamers target. but bluray uses 4:2:0 because it saves the encoder from wasting bitrate on less noticable chroma data and therefore can use more bitrate to avoid noticable macro blocking on fast motion, 10 bit color, etc. Streamers are even more bitrate constrained, I just can't believe they would use 4:4:4 in even their SDR encodes.

If I had to guess, Apple's content matching output's 4:4:4 in SDR because it doesn't try to autodetect the chroma value of the content, and just outputs 4:4:4 as the safe output choice. Upconverting 4:2:0 to 4:4:4 is a lossless zero padding process, the quality will match exactly the 4:2:0 source with no improvement and no loss. So there is no downside to using 4:4:4 when there are no HDMI limits to worry about (as is the case with 8bit SDR @4k).
I agree. After all, the 4K SDR 4:4:4/4:2:0 only applies to the Apple TV menu. With match content, it will automatically switch the chroma subsampling automatically for you to match the content.
So as you said, for SDR, it's 4:4:4 but because content is in 4:2:0, it won't look any different.
And for HDR video being played, the signal automatically switches to 4:2:2 and BT2020 colourspace.

Resulting in the discussion on which chroma subsampling to use mute the moment we enable Content Match. As mentioned, whatever default Chroma we choose only applies for the Apple TV menus. :D
 

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Is anybody getting more than stereo audio from the Disney+ app?
 

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Good morning! I jumped on the C9 Train (55") on Saturday. Coming from a TCL P Series. The TV itself is absolute BLISS! Mine is primarily for gaming and the quality and input lag is phenomenal. The OS... well not so much, but I knew that already as I have a 2018 LG 4k HDR LCD with webos on it. Seriously though I don't understand how such SIMPLE functions could be made so complicated (or non existent). Video settings in weird places, sluggish and frustrating to use UI, slow to update apps, etc.. Even picking your INPUT is quite the task on this TV. (is there really no way to add HDMI inputs to the "bar" like the older version of WEBOS?)

Startup input - is it so much to ask to force it to a set startup Input? I loved that my TCL would just go to HDMI1 every time. The other 10% when I wanted to do something else I could hit home and choose. This makes sense!


You can't turn off the internal speakers? Really? (or am I missing something?). IE: If I set to ARC, but then I turn off my soundbar to use my headset, the internal speakers switch on. Why does ARC not persist? (and more annoyingly if I turn my soundbar back on it does not go back to ARC). Using MUTE is also not an option as it leaves a gaint no sound logo on the screen that never goes away! The only option I have found is to manually turn my soundbar volume to 0, annoying and a waste of electricity. Please tell me I am missing something!?


Thanks for any pointers/solutions anyone may have.
 

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Good morning! I jumped on the C9 Train (55") on Saturday. Coming from a TCL P Series. The TV itself is absolute BLISS! Mine is primarily for gaming and the quality and input lag is phenomenal. The OS... well not so much, but I knew that already as I have a 2018 LG 4k HDR LCD with webos on it. Seriously though I don't understand how such SIMPLE functions could be made so complicated (or non existent). Video settings in weird places, sluggish and frustrating to use UI, slow to update apps, etc.. Even picking your INPUT is quite the task on this TV. (is there really no way to add HDMI inputs to the "bar" like the older version of WEBOS?)

Startup input - is it so much to ask to force it to a set startup Input? I loved that my TCL would just go to HDMI1 every time. The other 10% when I wanted to do something else I could hit home and choose. This makes sense!


You can't turn off the internal speakers? Really? (or am I missing something?). IE: If I set to ARC, but then I turn off my soundbar to use my headset, the internal speakers switch on. Why does ARC not persist? (and more annoyingly if I turn my soundbar back on it does not go back to ARC). Using MUTE is also not an option as it leaves a gaint no sound logo on the screen that never goes away! The only option I have found is to manually turn my soundbar volume to 0, annoying and a waste of electricity. Please tell me I am missing something!?


Thanks for any pointers/solutions anyone may have.
Sounds like you need to do a reset of your tv, I have none of those issues on my 65C9.

No sluggish menus, turns on to the input that is connected to the device I use. There is an option to turn off internal speakers. .

Maybe I'm missing something but no issues that you stated

LG C9, C8, C6 w/Pioneer SC-LX502 AVR, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Nintendo Switch
 

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Hi all.

Question regarding G-sync on the LG C9

I have an Nvidia 2080ti and my PC currently connects to an older Denon X3200W AVR (no EARC) with HDMI 2.0. This is so I can send a Dolby Atmos signal.

The AVR then connects to the TV for video pass-through

The trouble is that the TV only sees the Denon AVR as a monitor, and therefore I can't enable G-sync on it.

Is there anyway around this, other than connecting the PC directly to the TV, and therefore losing Dolby Atmos?

Thanks
 

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Unlucky

for a new C9

What is it ?
You have to give the screen time to break in. The usual break-in period for this tv is about 200 hours.

You just got the tv, just enjoy it. Don't look for issues. If it's not an issue that is apparent or damage, just enjoy

LG C9, C8, C6 w/Pioneer SC-LX502 AVR, Xbox One X, PS4 Pro & Nintendo Switch
 
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