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Dumb question, when you calibrate a LG C9 and copy settings to all inputs, I assume that is the HDMI inputs only? If you want the calibrated settings to the built in apps how do you do that, or can you?
 

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Dumb question, when you calibrate a LG C9 and copy settings to all inputs, I assume that is the HDMI inputs only? If you want the calibrated settings to the built in apps how do you do that, or can you?


You can copy the white balance and cms settings to all inputs too. But that is only valid for a manual calibration. When one does an autocal calibration, the settings are stored in the memory of the tv and overwrites the default settings, also to the built in apps.
 

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Anyone having significant audio sync issues in the C9 YouTube app?

I have a very noticeable audio delay even just using the internal TV speakers (sub-second delay, but definitely intolerable). The lipsync settings on the TV are turned off (setting them to manual and 0 does not make a difference.)

(There's even more delay when using eARC to my Yamaha RX-V685, but it works fine with USB videos from the C9 as well as with the HBO app, so I don't think it's my setup. In any case, as mentioned, it happens with just the TV speakers, too.)
I was just noticing the same thing! We can't be the only ones noticing the YouTube delay. I am seeing it also with the sound bar just as you.
 

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New LG C9 owner here. Haven't posted in a LONG time on these forums.

My trusty Panny VT30 died 2 months ago and finally laid my plasma to rest after a 2nd round of the 7 blinks of death. I've always self-calibrated my Panny and Kuro plasmas, going way back to use the 'Steaming Rat Method' that always gave some great results.

With my C9, I'm just using out of the box settings for now, I've tried Cinema and ISF Bright on HDMI 2. TBH, I'm a bit underwhelmed though might be due to the fact I'm just trying my Tivo Premiere recorded content and live sports. I will note that I'm using a Denon 3310CI to switch sources. With my plasma, it always looked quite good, now that same content, not so much. Blacks look pretty muddy.

Netflix 4K directly on the C9 looks great, I tried the Irishman. Used my Tivo to play the same content (granted not 4K) and it looked pretty darn good, which surprised me. Even through Tivo's Netflix app, I could see the leather creases on Pacino's jacket quite well.

1) I tried looking at the FAQs. Is there a list of things to do during the first 100+ hours of viewing as precautions? I remember things like reducing brightness was a thing.

2) Suggested Picture Options? I watch a lot of TV via Tivo (OTA and cablecard) and I HATE the soap opera effect. For Cinema User, I have
Smooth Gradation: low
Real Cinema: On
Motion Eye Care: Off
TruMotion: Off

3) I'm not concerned w/ power savings, heck I came from a plasma. What settings should I be changing to improve PQ at the expense of power savings?

4) Any other calibration suggestions (links welcomed) that I might study to improve general PQ? I do notice that black detail just isn't there. I know, I'm trying to pretty much fix 720p/1080i content on a 4K display, but that's my reality.

5) Is the WOW disc a good option for calibrating by eye?

Thanks in advance for all your help.
 

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Anyone having significant audio sync issues in the C9 YouTube app?
Same here. Youtube app is just unusable. Happens with any audio output I tried (bt headphones, built-in speakers, eARC soundbar). Netflix app and built-in media player works without any perceivable lag.
 

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Is Technicolor really more accurate out of the box than Cinema?
Most guides seem to recommend Cinema for HDR. And I can see a noticable difference in color between those two.
Try "Warm1" with Technicolor - the usually recommended "Warm2" was way to brownish-green for me, "Warm1" looks better to my eyes.
 

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What is the consensus regarding the “smooth gradation” feature? My set is calibrated, but will it effect the picture quality in a positive or negative way? If positive, which setting is best?
 

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What is the consensus regarding the “smooth gradation” feature? My set is calibrated, but will it effect the picture quality in a positive or negative way? If positive, which setting is best?
Smooths color banding at the expense of loss of fine detail.
 

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Please do not mount on drywall. If you can't center on studs, screw a length of 1x3 across 2 adjacent studs, so that it will allow your mount to screw into that and NOT into drywall.

That's what I thought. A lenght of 1x3 of what? Plywood you meant? Can you link me to any image that is similar to what you're saying?


Also, are those strap toggles for drywalls without studs any useful? According to our condo developer, the drywall of our condo does have some "metal furrings" behind them.
 

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Looking for feedback on Dynamic Tone Mapping. On my 7jA9G it is on by default with the Sony looking to maintain a consistent APL. What is the thinking around DTM, does it work as well as the Sony does? My understanding is that during calibration you can set the C9 to use the panel peak brightness to adjust the EOTF curve and let DTM preserve the details that would otherwise be lost du to hard clipping. Has anyone compared LG DTM to that in the Sony as to how they compare?
 

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Somebody lied then because the elevated blacks are still there lol

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

For HDR Games turn Dynamic tone mapping off, then don't forget to calibrate in game. If you just go from DTM on to DTM off things will look off before you recalibrate with the in game settings. After this you should no longer have the elevated blacks (at least this has solved it for me in all the games I play).



DTM on I get massive elevated blacks, especially Modern Warfare.
 

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That's what I thought. A lenght of 1x3 of what? Plywood you meant? Can you link me to any image that is similar to what you're saying?


Also, are those strap toggles for drywalls without studs any useful? According to our condo developer, the drywall of our condo does have some "metal furrings" behind them.
Here is one way to do it.

Wall Mounting


You could also open up the drywall and put a 2x4 between the studs, as suggested. But, you would have to patch the drywall. I have seen people use a length of wood 1x3 (get at any home center) mounted over the drywall, instead of metal strips.

Toggle bolts are a disaster waiting to happen. I would never suggest using them, for anything.
 

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Toggle bolts are a disaster waiting to happen. I would never suggest using them, for anything.
I would never use a articulating mount with toggle bolts. However flat and tilt mount work with toggles as long as no one is going to be grabbing, hanging on the TV.
 

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I would never use a articulating mount with toggle bolts. However flat and tilt mount work with toggles as long as no one is going to be grabbing, hanging on the TV.
Agreed.

But, who wants to hang their C9 using a mount that "might" work? :)


...and, for how long?
 

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Please do not mount on drywall. If you can't center on studs, screw a length of 1x3 across 2 adjacent studs, so that it will allow your mount to screw into that and NOT into drywall.

That's what I thought. A lenght of 1x3 of what? Plywood you meant? Can you link me to any image that is similar to what you're saying?


Also, are those strap toggles for drywalls without studs any useful? According to our condo developer, the drywall of our condo does have some "metal furrings" behind them.
Hire a professional and don’t listen to these people. Your place most likely has metal studs and not wood. Do not use a full motion mount with drywall or into metal. Use a tilt or advanced tilt mount instead.
 

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Hire a professional and don’t listen to these people. Your place most likely has metal studs and not wood. Do not use a full motion mount with drywall or into metal. Use a tilt or advanced tilt mount instead.
Which is exactly why you use a cross member, between the (metal) studs. But, I'm out.

Good luck OP, with whatever you do.
 
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Here is one way to do it.

Wall Mounting


You could also open up the drywall and put a 2x4 between the studs, as suggested. But, you would have to patch the drywall. I have seen people use a length of wood 1x3 (get at any home center) mounted over the drywall, instead of metal strips.

Toggle bolts are a disaster waiting to happen. I would never suggest using them, for anything.

Ok, I see what you're saying. For my case, I think it would be easier because the mounting hardware that I'm planning to use is this: https://www.screenmounts.com.au/cantilever-tv-mount-p4 . But I know it's the same concept, as long as I don't mount directly to the drywall.


Also, what is the ideal height and viewing distance for a 55" TV? Viewing distance I'm not so much concerned about because my room is small and I really don't have any choice anyway. But for height, it's a different story because I can control that of course.



I would plan on using a sound bar in the future. Where do you install those? Obviously, I'm a noob and this is my first major TV purchase.
 
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