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Hey everyone.

C9 owner here. I'd like to use the autocalibration feature. Is there a recommended colorimeter to use with the CalMAN software?

Thank you!
 

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C9 owner here. I'd like to use the autocalibration feature. Is there a recommended colorimeter to use with the CalMAN software?
A better place to ask this question would be in a thread here. E.g. this one or this one.
PortraitDisplay employees will most likely recommend their (imo overprized) C6 which is a custom branded and certified X-Rite i1Display Pro OEM Rev. B.

Btw. are you aware what "AutoCal" actually means and that there's no 'magic' involved? I.e. you still have to perform a lot of manual steps for a proper calibration.
 

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Hello,
My AVR requires an analogue input to display its settings onscreen. Is there an analogue input on the back of the LG C9?
It varies by region. In Canada you'll have an Antenna/Cable in connector and an AV connector. There is a supplied cable which breaks out the AV connector into standard video and stereo audio connectors (yellow, red and white RCA connectors).
 

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I thought in Calman that option is the Dynamic Tone Mapping tweak. My panel follows the curve perfectly until 700 nits. Content above that is tonemapped, instead of the whole picture. I checked it with the Spears & Munsil disc after calibration. Details are more visible in the high end of the spectrum without the low and mid tones being altered.

Maybe I should try to disable it and see how it looks like on movies.
In Calman there is some settings for HDR around where to start the roll-off I believe so that it is more subtle as you approach the panel peak brightness, I may be wrong but on 1000 nits I believe the default was 70% if I am understanding that correctly. It is explained in this article. I thought this HDR tone mapping was separate form the Tone Mapping option in the settings.

https://referencehometheater.com/2019/commentary/2019-lg-tvs-custom-tone-mapping-explained/
 

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Hey everyone.

C9 owner here. I'd like to use the autocalibration feature. Is there a recommended colorimeter to use with the CalMAN software?

Thank you!
I used an i1Display Pro from X-Rite with Autocal works with no issues. The LG C9 already has built in pattern generator so you can save plenty of money by using it. Also you will need a usb drive to play hdr and dolby vision sample videos provided by Calman on their website that is to force the display to switch to the correct picture modes.



This walkthrough should get you started with Autocal: https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough
 

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I used an i1Display Pro from X-Rite with Autocal works with no issues. The LG C9 already has built in pattern generator so you can save plenty of money by using it. Also you will need a usb drive to play hdr and dolby vision sample videos provided by Calman on their website that is to force the display to switch to the correct picture modes.







This walkthrough should get you started with Autocal: https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough


I tried this earlier - very simple and straightforward. Also have that meter.

Only thing to make sure you do is to play the correct video file before starting calibration, otherwise it will disconnect after a few minutes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I tried this earlier - very simple and straightforward.
In the beginning everything seems so simple and uncomplicated. Then you find out many things that are not in the tutorial or any manual. For example after how many hours of operation you should calibrate your TV for the first time, that you should warm up your TV 30 minutes before each calibration, that the Raw XYZ mode is not ideal and that you should use a different EDR that is not provided by CalMAN.

Or that you should turn off the TPC option in the Service Menu for calibrations, that the Lightning LUT method is not ideal but the other methods have other problems. And much more ...

The 'simple and straightforward method' may or may not give you decent results.
In my experience, you can get lost quite quickly if something does not work directly. Then you spend many hours trying to figure out what went wrong.
 
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I used an i1Display Pro from X-Rite with Autocal works with no issues. The LG C9 already has built in pattern generator so you can save plenty of money by using it. Also you will need a usb drive to play hdr and dolby vision sample videos provided by Calman on their website that is to force the display to switch to the correct picture modes.



This walkthrough should get you started with Autocal: https://calmankb.groovehq.com/help/calman-home-for-lg-walkthrough
Is this all we need to do our own calibrations or do we need software as well?
 

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Since installing the new firmware and the latest Nvidia driver, I have a problem that my monitor loses the signal as soon as I turn off the TV.

I connected the following:

1. PC - GPU - via displayport cable to my monitor
2. PC - GPU - via HDMI cable to HDMI port 3 of the LG C9
3. PC - GPU - Displayport-to-HDMI-cable to my AVR (I have to do this so that I get 5.1 sound when playing, since LG unfortunately only offers PCM 2.0 sound via "eARC" at the moment)
4. AVR via HDMI cable to HDMI Port 2 (ARC) of the LG C9.

The problem is now: If I activate ARC on the TV / AVR and switch off the TV, my monitor loses the signal. When I pull the Displayport to HDMI cable out of the GPU, the signal comes back.

If I turn off ARC on the TV as well as on my AVR, the signal is retained, but only if the TV AND AVR are switched off. As soon as I switch on the AVR again, the monitor loses the signal. If I leave "Standby-passthrough" on my AVR (Yamaha rx-v385) under the HDMI control, then I do not get any signal when the AVR and TV are switched off.

I somehow don't get through there anymore. Before the new firmware / driver installation, it worked perfectly. I had already installed the previous Nvidia driver, but it didn't work.

I guess that is because of the new firmware, or the handshake between this whole ARC thing and the devices among themselves has changed.
I've gone through something similar with my 2080ti and yamaha 685 after the newest update, honestly i had changed a few other things at the same time so I hadn't narrowed it down to the update yet. my solution for the short term was to cycle resolutions which would then "wake" the screen up.

http://www.bcheck.net/apps/reso.htm was my quick way, setup so that a hotkey would run that program, which automatically changes resolutions as long as a program is active, then switches back to your previous one, so i set it to open up a fake program which immediately then closes so it changes resolutions twice, which gives me my screen back at my starting resolution

https://funk.eu/hrc/ this one also just directly changes resolutions to match whatever hotkeys you set for it, should work the same way, probably slightly easier since you can trigger it without seeing the screen and don't need some other means to launch it if it's already running

Even when using a device that hides hot plug event, it still loses picture on power cycling the display

Haven't tried disabling ARC in the receiver yet, maybe I'll give that a shot
 

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OLED to Soundbar with Directional HDMI Cable

Folks:
I just purchased a 65"C9 and I have a late model LG Soundbar that are both ARC. I noticed the new Monoprice cables I purchased are directional. I have a Roku, Tivo, Antenna and Cat7 all going to the TV.
The directional cables are marked "Source" on one end and "TV" on the other. In my case, is the "source" not the TV? In which case the source end would go to the ARC input in the TV, but that leaves the TV end going into the ARC input of the soundbar. And somehow, that just don't seem right.
Thanks in advance.:D
 

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i believe you are correct. I don't own the HT-ST5000 but I have the HT-Z9F and have no audio sync issues. They do exist but switching from passthrough to auto or vise versa fixes it. I use passthrough for pretty much everything except netflix via the TV's built in app.
Thanks for the advice! So your media devices are plugged in through your Z9F?

I'll be hooking up my PS4 Pro, which is the main media device, to the TV's HDMI port so I don't need to switch Game Mode on and off, but am concerned whether this configuration allows LPCM passthrough for Atmos audio.
 

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OLED Low Profile Wall Mount

Hello - can anyone recommend a high quality very low profile wall mount to that can swivel 60 degrees (I do not need it to tilt)? I’ll be using it with a Sony or LG OLED TV. It’s important that it allow the TV to sit very flush with the wall given the mounting location. B&O makes a high quality swivel mount for their TVs but I don’t want to be forced to use one of their TVs. Thanks for your help.
 

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In the beginning everything seems so simple and uncomplicated. Then you find out many things that are not in the tutorial or any manual. For example after how many hours of operation you should calibrate your TV for the first time, that you should warm up your TV 30 minutes before each calibration, that the Raw XYZ mode is not ideal and that you should use a different EDR that is not provided by CalMAN.

Or that you should turn off the TPC option in the Service Menu for calibrations, that the Lightning LUT method is not ideal but the other methods have other problems. And much more ...

The 'simple and straightforward method' may or may not give you decent results.
In my experience, you can get lost quite quickly if something does not work directly. Then you spend many hours trying to figure out what went wrong.
Yeah I found with both my 55" FZ950 and 77" C9, some colorimeter corrections i found online for a C7 OLED to be much more accurate than RAW Mode on the i1 DisplayPro .... eg here..

https://colorimetercorrections.displaycal.net/?get&type=ccss&manufacturer_id=GSM&display=OLED55C7P&instrument=i1 DisplayPro, ColorMunki Display, Spyder4&html=1
 

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Hello - I bought the new LG 65' C9 2 weeks ago and all seems well. I have it hooked up to my Alienware Aurora R7 with a new RTX 2080Ti so I'm looking fwd to the G-SYNC feature plus the upgrade of a new TV from 55'.

I can't seem to figure out is some threads I see say choose PC as your input using HDMI (current setup) and some say NO don't select PC as the post/image I just saw. Why is selecting game console input over PC better?? Whats the advantage? I see no difference in colors, HDR, no lag, or difference in clarity etc.. maybe with the latest firmware I have - that corrects a lot of this issue people some users experience. I'm a technical person (IT Professional by trade) so I understand a lot but this seem like a hit or miss. I'm keeping it on PC input for now based on rtings recommendations.


I saw a tweet/screenshot previous page from EvilBoris saying "So Something for C9 PC users. Do not use PC mode for HDR content. It is broke big time. Change the source to game console..

I see threads on Reddit with users going back and forth. I'd post the link but this is my first post. :)
 

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Are other owners seeing motion stutters on 24P content from Netflix?

I’m seeing micro stutters periodically while watching The Witcher from my ATV4K and no combination of settings seems able to eliminate it.

I have the ATV set to match source frame rate, am watching in DV and 24P with Real Cinema is engaged.

Even with True Motion completely disabled I am getting tiny micro stutters every few minutes ... it’s somewhat distracting. More so as I had not been observing them previously.
 

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Since installing the new firmware and the latest Nvidia driver, I have a problem that my monitor loses the signal as soon as I turn off the TV.

I connected the following:

1. PC - GPU - via displayport cable to my monitor
2. PC - GPU - via HDMI cable to HDMI port 3 of the LG C9
3. PC - GPU - Displayport-to-HDMI-cable to my AVR (I have to do this so that I get 5.1 sound when playing, since LG unfortunately only offers PCM 2.0 sound via "eARC" at the moment)
4. AVR via HDMI cable to HDMI Port 2 (ARC) of the LG C9.

The problem is now: If I activate ARC on the TV / AVR and switch off the TV, my monitor loses the signal. When I pull the Displayport to HDMI cable out of the GPU, the signal comes back.

If I turn off ARC on the TV as well as on my AVR, the signal is retained, but only if the TV AND AVR are switched off. As soon as I switch on the AVR again, the monitor loses the signal. If I leave "Standby-passthrough" on my AVR (Yamaha rx-v385) under the HDMI control, then I do not get any signal when the AVR and TV are switched off.

I somehow don't get through there anymore. Before the new firmware / driver installation, it worked perfectly. I had already installed the previous Nvidia driver, but it didn't work.

I guess that is because of the new firmware, or the handshake between this whole ARC thing and the devices among themselves has changed.

I came here to post about how switching to an active DP/HDMI fixed some issues I was having and then saw your post. I'd give it a shot instead of a passive DP/HDMI cable. Active adapters are one way only I believe and so won't interfere with any existing ARC connections in the rest of your AV system. This is the one I bought and use. The only issue I have with it, is it won't pass Dolby Atmos. 7.1 PCM works just fine though.
 

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I just wanted to put a quick post here in regards to my woes since getting the C9 for integration as a PC monitor and entertainment display. I've found solutions to issues I couldn't find straight forward advice to and was hoping this might help someone who ends up in a similar issue.


The issue: C9 requires to be hooked directly to GPU for GSync to function. This causes issues for folks like me who also have a surround sound setup and are used to plugging directly into the AVR. The issue revolves around LG's incompetence to properly pass PCM 8 channel audio via ARC from an external HDMI source. My ideal setup would be 2080ti GPU -> TV -> AVR while passing LPCM audio and no lipsync issues.

My first buggy solution: using a passive DP/HDMI adapter from a DP on the GPU to my AVR, and an HDMI direct from the GPU to the TV. This worked well with a few caveats:
1)Passive DP/HDMI adapters appear to cause a total meltdown of ARC/CEC capabilities while unpowered. So if my PC is sleeping, ARC will no longer send sound from internal apps to AVR, nor will AVR power on with TV. I don't care about CEC, but losing ARC on internal apps (or just in general) was a deal killer.
2)if running from GPU's DP, it causes maxed out memory clocks and elevated core clocks, resulting in about 30-35% TDP and idle temps of around 36C while liquid cooled (normal idle with one monitor is 28c).
These caveats, while few, were deal breakers for me. Which after hours of buying different products, searching forums and googling until my head almost exploded, I finally have my new, much less buggy, solution: Using an Active DP/HDMI adapter and running it from the motherboard.


This solves the issue of the high idle temps on GPU by running from the motherboard (also note, my motherboard's HDMI never worked when plugged to the AVR, no idea why) instead of a DP on the GPU. This also completely fixed the issue of ARC/CEC failing while my PC was off. So now, if I'm watching Netflix and my PC goes to sleep, I don't lose all my audio and I keep my LPCM 7.1 audio from my PC.

This solution does, however, come with one caveat: I can no longer pass Dolby Atmos from my PC. I've been searching quite a lot and haven't quite determined if it's just an issue with my particular adapter, or if it's an issue with all active DP/HDMI adapters. I do miss Atmos in the few games/apps that supported it, but I love still getting 7.1 surround on everything without breaking ARC or GSync. At this point, if I have to wait until 2nd quarter 2020 to receive that coveted update LG is promising that fixes ARC not passing LPCM audio from HDMI sources, I'll be pretty content. However, if someone has any experience with a different *active* DP/HDMI adapter that correctly pass Atmos and doesn't break ARC for the internal apps, I'd def appreciate hearing about it. Thanks for reading and hopefully this info helps someone out there.
 
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