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Using CalMAN Home for LG, what am I supposed to calibrate Technicolor and Technicolor HDR to? The white point seems different than the ISF Expert settings (seem to be aiming for D65)
In the C9, the Technicolor Expert Mode does use a different white point for the Warm 1 preset than the other picture modes do. Warm 2 is still aimed for D65, but the default in Technicolor Expert is Warm 1. I believe the desired coordinates for the Technicolor Expert Warm 1 are x=.300 y=.327. It has been reported that Technicolor arrived at this white point by perceptually matching a Xenon DCI Cinema Projector. (There has been debate over the merits and downfalls of this.) Others have arrived at their own preferred white points by attempting to perceptually match other display types.

Ultimately it is up to you which white point to use for calibrating the Technicolor Expert modes, and whether you calibrate that picture mode at all. The same goes for all the other picture modes. You can stay true to Technicolor's intent and use their whitepoint, use one that someone else came up with, try to do a perceptual match to come up with your own, or use D65.

Here's a good post regarding the issue: Color Matching Functions & Metamerism. However I must note that I find the last part of this post regarding different mixtures of primary color luminance to be potentially confusing, and of questionable relevance. The different color spaces use different mixtures of their primaries to achieve the same D65 because their primaries are different from each other. It's NOT the same red, green, and blue in each example. And on top of that, the primary colors of the sub-pixels in the display of our C9s don't perfectly match any of the colorspaces mentioned, and add a white sub-pixel in the mix as well. So if the point here is supposed to be that you can only correctly achieve perceptual matching by using a D65 reference created using the exact same colorspace/mixture of primaries, then only another C9 (or WOLED using the same panel) could be used as a reference. The author of the post is very experienced and is very helpful with a tremendous amount of information, and I may very well be missing what his true point is.
 

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Any reason why my YouTube TV app on the fire 4k would produce MASSIVE motion issues? The TV app is perfect with Trumotion to off, the fire 4k has really really bad stutter.. Anything to try?

Reason I want to use firestick app is for the sound, I can get dd from the firestick connected straight to audio system, the lg app is soooo off because of arc... Any solutions to that issue??
Anyone? Would like to watch YouTubetv from the fire tv with 5.1 audio instead of pcm from the tv
YouTube TV doesn’t currently have surround sound. It’s stereo only. It doesn’t matter what device you watch it on.
 

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OK guys, getting there...


I hooked my HD DVD player up to a separate input than my Oppos (so I could turn "Deep Color" off), and ran a digital coax to the SPDIF for audio. So far, so good. Picture, audio finally work together great. Then I take a look at the "info" from the C9. It shows "1080p" (which is what the HD DVD player is set to output). I thought the C9 automatically upconverted an incoming signal? Or is what is being displayed under info the incoming signal, and the upconversion is what I am watching. I absolutely love this set, but if I ever get a hold of the people who decided just to provide a (mostly useless) online user guide only... :)
 

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I'm really liking my new TV and receiver. The Yamaha RX-A1080 (upgraded from the RX-A750) has better sound, more power, and I also can confirm eArc is working perfectly, as well. I can't comment on DV, as I don't have any DV content downloaded on my home server, and the 2017 Shield doesn't support it. I do get it from the TVs native apps (Altered Carbon via Netflix). I'll be getting the 2019 version of the shield, and moving the 2017 to the bedroom with the 60" Panny ST30 in the next month or so.

My panel looks pretty darn good. Just watched some 4k grey scale slides and I can't notice any banding or even lack of uniformity until I get to the 5% slide at 100% screen size. Even then it's just some slightly darker patches around the bottom left side of the screen, but nothing that is noticeable in regular content. Slight yellowish tint to the 100% white screen, but, again, I really have to look for it and it seems to be fading with screen-on time. Still no dead/stuck pixels.

I am relieved, only issue is that high pitched buzzing from the power board, which will be swapped out this week...looks like I got a keeper!

In 8 days I'm up to over 150 hours, been running the color slides whenever we're not viewing content.

Can't wait for my calibration in April! Although, to be honest, I'm really wanting to grab a meter and Calman home license and start doing it myself. :D
 

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OK guys, getting there...


I hooked my HD DVD player up to a separate input than my Oppos (so I could turn "Deep Color" off), and ran a digital coax to the SPDIF for audio. So far, so good. Picture, audio finally work together great. Then I take a look at the "info" from the C9. It shows "1080p" (which is what the HD DVD player is set to output). I thought the C9 automatically upconverted an incoming signal? Or is what is being displayed under info the incoming signal, and the upconversion is what I am watching. I absolutely love this set, but if I ever get a hold of the people who decided just to provide a (mostly useless) online user guide only... :)
The C9 is a 4K TV and always displays whatever format that it receives in 4K. The 1080p you see is the incoming signal.
 

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^^^ Thanks!
 
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Do you have an Apple TV box to try? AirPlay 2 from that works better than the tv. The image and latency is markedly better.

Are you using a wired connection or WiFi to the tv? The WiFi has been known to cause issues with the remote. They are completely different frequencies than Bluetooth but who knows. It could be something to try. I use AirPods Pros and they work quite well via Bluetooth from the tv. (10 feet or less)
Unfortunately I don't have an Apple TV box. My hope was to avoid the need for buying one since the TV has AirPlay built in.

I am also using WiFi to the TV so there could be some interference I guess. I might try streaming from a FireTV instead of the built in apps to see if that clears anything up. Appreciate the suggestions.
 

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For some reason, my c9 has stopped sending audio to my Denon x2600. It’s still set to hdmi out and arc - anyone else experienced this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not that you would do this, but when shifting from the TV's (eARC) input to a Blu-Ray disc (directly connected to the AVR), I forget to press the Blu-ray button on my Denon X3400H's remote control. No sound out until I do.
 

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YouTube TV doesn’t currently have surround sound. It’s stereo only. It doesn’t matter what device you watch it on.
You can up grade the YouTube sound from stereo to 5.1 by turning on AI Sound. But of course this only works when using the Internal TV speakers.
 

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My local Costco is selling the PUA models. It's on the price ticket that's displayed and on all the boxes.
Sorry, I think the AUA models are specific to Costco in USA. I don't believe Canada has an AUA model, and I'm not sure about elsewhere.
 

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Thank you, don’t really need that anyways, as long as it has all other features I’m good!
I noticed your location shows Japan. What I said applies to the USA models only. I'm not certain what the models and differences are elsewhere.
 

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AUB models are in Costco USA. We picked up ours 2 weeks ago.
 

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I noticed your location shows Japan. What I said applies to the USA models only. I'm not certain what the models and differences are elsewhere.
Thanks, I think it’s just like the retail versions
 

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I want to use eARC for the build in apps Neflix, Plex, etc but when enabling eARC it enables CEC/Simplink. I don't want CEC just only eARC. Is there a way fix this on a 65" C9?
 

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I want to use eARC for the build in apps Neflix, Plex, etc but when enabling eARC it enables CEC/Simplink. I don't want CEC just only eARC. Is there a way fix this on a 65" C9?


Nah there isn’t. I bought a Lindy CEC blocker for a few pounds from amazon and put it in between my tv and receiver. It works great.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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In the C9, the Technicolor Expert Mode does use a different white point for the Warm 1 preset than the other picture modes do. Warm 2 is still aimed for D65, but the default in Technicolor Expert is Warm 1. I believe the desired coordinates for the Technicolor Expert Warm 1 are x=.300 y=.327. It has been reported that Technicolor arrived at this white point by perceptually matching a Xenon DCI Cinema Projector. (There has been debate over the merits and downfalls of this.) Others have arrived at their own preferred white points by attempting to perceptually match other display types.

Ultimately it is up to you which white point to use for calibrating the Technicolor Expert modes, and whether you calibrate that picture mode at all. The same goes for all the other picture modes. You can stay true to Technicolor's intent and use their whitepoint, use one that someone else came up with, try to do a perceptual match to come up with your own, or use D65.

Here's a good post regarding the issue: Color Matching Functions & Metamerism. However I must note that I find the last part of this post regarding different mixtures of primary color luminance to be potentially confusing, and of questionable relevance. The different color spaces use different mixtures of their primaries to achieve the same D65 because their primaries are different from each other. It's NOT the same red, green, and blue in each example. And on top of that, the primary colors of the sub-pixels in the display of our C9s don't perfectly match any of the colorspaces mentioned, and add a white sub-pixel in the mix as well. So if the point here is supposed to be that you can only correctly achieve perceptual matching by using a D65 reference created using the exact same colorspace/mixture of primaries, then only another C9 (or WOLED using the same panel) could be used as a reference. The author of the post is very experienced and is very helpful with a tremendous amount of information, and I may very well be missing what his true point is.
Thanks for the info; I really appreciate your help. I wanted Technicolor expert to retain it's intent but increase accuray.
 

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I want to use eARC for the build in apps Neflix, Plex, etc but when enabling eARC it enables CEC/Simplink. I don't want CEC just only eARC. Is there a way fix this on a 65" C9?
Just turn HDMI control OFF on all of your other devices, including the AVR, and you won't have any issues.
 
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