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Good points thx. I’ve got a 5.1 setup myself and old AVR does ARC (not eARC) neither does it do Atmos. I’m hanging out for HDMI 2.1 AVR with Atmos etc when they start dropping. But I think I’m limited to 2.0 sound via the TOSLINK period, right?
For LPCM yes. Dolby Digital and DTS can still do 5.1 lossy.
 

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For LPCM yes. Dolby Digital and DTS can still do 5.1 lossy.
Ah thank you, that makes sense as my AVR is saying its decoding Dolby Digital from the Xbox, I checked Xbox is it outputting bitstream and I did seem to be getting 5.1 for movies. That's good for me then for the moment but not a 7.1/Atmos solution. I do have Atmos for Headphones running straight off Xbox wireless which sounds good (for those late night don't-disturb-the-family movies).
 

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Do you guys turn on or off quick start ? What’s the difference ? Power consumption / functionality? How much ? And does pixel refresher still work when it’s off ?
 

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I'm not sure Best Buy's panel replacement policy, so can't help you there. Burn-in was an issue with older OLED tech, but within the last couple years LG taken measures to protect the display. I haven't heard a single report of burn-in on a C9, which has been out for over a year. I'm not saying it will never happen, but with reasonable care it should look great for years and years. The only habit I had to break was leaving the TV on unattended, especially on paused games. And bothering to turn on Windows 10's screensaver.
To be honest you have to wait a few years to see about burn in. The 6 series for example, burn in did not start showing its face for more then a few years.
 

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Has D-Nice posted his setting for the C9?
He posted settings for CX just curious if he did the same for the C9 and I missed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Has D-Nice posted his setting for the C9?
He posted settings for CX just curious if he did the same for the C9 and I missed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Link to CX settings?

I have not seen him post C9 settings, but I could have missed it.
 

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Do you guys turn on or off quick start ? What’s the difference ? Power consumption / functionality? How much ? And does pixel refresher still work when it’s off ?
I turned it off on my C9.
To me there is no real benefit in using it.
With Quickstart set to on the boot time is only 1 or 2 seconds faster.
And for the UI it takes a few seconds to become available. But in my eyes
this is not worth the higher power consumption in standby.

I have not measured the power consumption in standby myself. But I have seen numbers from 10 - 25 W while Quickstart = on. Without quickstart the power consumption is locked at 0.5 W (after the small cycle is finished).
 

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I recently got a C9 and am loving it! However, there are two things I'm trying to work through.

I'm moving from an E6 and the motion on the C9 is better. I understand it is better, but I legit cannot stop noticing it now so much more than I used to. It just seems to me that I see a lot more motion blur. Weirdly enough I noticed it most when I was watching stand-up comedy on Netflix. I get the quality of the source isn't as high, but it just seemed like the edges were always a millisecond out of focus. It's hard to describe, but I can't figure out what to do to get motion nailed down.

Secondly, I'm trying to still figure out how to best make CEC work. Right now I'm struggling because my receiver does not support Dolby Vision passthrough so I'm connecting all of my inputs directly to the TV and then using ARC to send the audio back to the receiver (with the exception of my BD player since that supports a second audio out). I know this isn't ideal, but I do like the fact that everything generally seems to work well together. The issue is that I have HDMI 2 go to my receiver for ARC, but often my TV will switch to it when I'm attempting to watch a BD for some reason (even though the BD player is HDMI 1). Again, I know I'm not doing the best job of describing this, I apologize. I wish I could just turn CEC off for a specific input. If I want to watch a BD I should be on HDMI 1 and the AVR should be on AV1, however CEC automatically switches the AVR to Audio 1 (which would be correct for everything else) when I correct this and switch the AVR to AV1 CEC then switched the TV to HDMI 2. It is caught in an endless loop. Any advice?
 

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Secondly, I'm trying to still figure out how to best make CEC work. Right now I'm struggling because my receiver does not support Dolby Vision passthrough so I'm connecting all of my inputs directly to the TV and then using ARC to send the audio back to the receiver (with the exception of my BD player since that supports a second audio out).
Try removing your second HDMI (audio out) from your BD. I found that having it set that way caused CEC issues.
 

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Has D-Nice posted his setting for the C9?
He posted settings for CX just curious if he did the same for the C9 and I missed it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No.
 

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Try removing your second HDMI (audio out) from your BD. I found that having it set that way caused CEC issues.
I might be confused here, but the second HDMI out is how I get audio from the BD Player to the AVR. Removing it would then kill the sound. Or are you advocating for something different?
 

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Hi

I have flashing bar problem with dark seen in my C9 yesterday I watch the house with a clock in its walls and I noticed the flashing bar in the dark seen I had this problem with my B7 before but it’s goes away with update I am now on the last update 04.71.25 is there anyone noticing this problem and I am planning to calibrate with atoucall in my C9 is there a chance this problem goes away.
 

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Hello all, just pulled the trigger on a 77" c9 that will be replacing my Pany VT65 plasma. Also snagged a Denon x4500 to replace my 4000 and a Pany UB820 player for my physical 4k media. I'm hoping the motion will not be an issue coming from plasma but most of the content we consume is movies, streaming Sling and NF, and some gaming.

Does D-Nice have recommended settings for this panel or am I good going with the ISF preset options?
 

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Every panel and tv are different. Honestly, you should never use another person's calibrated settings.

The main user settings are fine but using the rest could make things undesirable

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 

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I'd never use the color point settings, but the rest of the user settings seem to be pretty much in line with the generally accepted and widely used settings - quite similar to RTINGS.

My C9 does not have auto black level; but is set to low. And, I also usually always keep all the motion stuff OFF. I do run my OLED light a tad brighter, also. Somewhere around 37-39. I don't watch TV in a dark cave.

I used D-Nice settings on my old Kuro plasma. It looked amazing. Since then, I had a professional calibrate my projector and Vizio. The Kuro held its own. I wish D-Nice would post settings for the C9.....they may not be perfect but they will be real close!
You really should not use the color point settings. As someone said above, they will be different, or could be different from panel to panel. You can use the other settings, though. I'm sure they will be just fine.
 

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I might be confused here, but the second HDMI out is how I get audio from the BD Player to the AVR. Removing it would then kill the sound. Or are you advocating for something different?
Could you check that you did not disconnect the audio/video HDMI cable from the BD instead of the audio only cable? You should not have lost sound or video.

Re: "Something different" -- there are two ways to connect. 1) connect your BD's audio/video-out HDMI cable to BD HDMI-out-->HDMI-in BD on AVR to Monitor (ARC) HDMI-out-->TV HDMI(1, 2, 3, or 4), or 2) have your AVR HDMI-out -->TV HDMI2 and BD HDMI-out -->TV HDMI(1, 3, or 4).
Way #1 is a direct connection from your BD to your AVR, then your AVR to your TV. That will provide the most channels of audio, at least for now.
Way #2 is an eARC connection. If your AVR has eARC, that is the easiest way to go, but will have a restriction to stereo on any LPCM signal from your BD. Make sure that you pass "bitmap"; no restriction on that.
 

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I recently got a C9 and am loving it! However, there are two things I'm trying to work through.

I'm moving from an E6 and the motion on the C9 is better. I understand it is better, but I legit cannot stop noticing it now so much more than I used to. It just seems to me that I see a lot more motion blur. Weirdly enough I noticed it most when I was watching stand-up comedy on Netflix. I get the quality of the source isn't as high, but it just seemed like the edges were always a millisecond out of focus. It's hard to describe, but I can't figure out what to do to get motion nailed down.
I must ADMIT that I am having the exact same issue.

The C9 is a fantastic OLED, but, to my eyes, there is definitevely something wrong with motion/blurriness. I come from a Sony A1 and I never struggled with motion issues (even if that set had its own problems..).
From the moment I started watching videos with the C9, though, I never stopped (even now, 3 months later) trying to find the best combination of motion settings that are acceptable to my eyes.

Note that I am not saying "to my taste", but "to my eyes", because I actually have sight issues when whatching something on the C9: maybe there is something that my brain does not digest in some way....

It's a real pity, because otherwise I could be extremely satisfied.
 
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