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Yeah, logos, like we don't know which channel we are watching.
Wish they would get rid of them.
You wouldn't believe how many times I've said that.
The BS logo's they put on our screens is beyond ridiculous. We need to start a movement against the networks!
The fact that I want to buy a nice TV and have to worry about them F'N it sucks!
 

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Yeah, logos, like we don't know which channel we are watching.
Wish they would get rid of them.
You wouldn't believe how many times I've said that.
The BS logo's they put on our screens is beyond ridiculous. We need to start a movement against the networks!
The fact that I want to buy a nice TV and have to worry about them F'N it sucks!
You really don’t have to worry about it.
 

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My LG 77" OLEDC9 Died ~200 hours. "Break In" Thoughts w/ OLEDs… HDR/Gaming to blame?

Okay, so here goes… Finally, after years of waiting for prices to drop, technological features to align (OLED, GSYNC, HDR, HDMI 2.1, etc.), then an additional six months of hunting for the best possible deal… I bought an LG C9 77”. I had read conflicting reports online about the necessity of breaking in the panel before pushing it to the limit.

I set the TV up in my basement home theater area, ran a 100-foot optical HDMI cable 2.1 to my centralized gaming PC rig, proceeded to configure the expert profile settings from rtings.com, and got to binging lots of content. I watched all nine Star Wars movies in 4K HDR, watched lots of standard 1080P content up until around 80 hours on the screen, then got into gaming on it (Middle-earth - Shadow of War) @ 4k/100/HDR for around 70 hours.

I had been keeping an eye on the run time of the display, I was about 180 hours in, when BAM in the middle of a game cut scene, a vertical red line appeared from top to bottom approximately in the middle of the screen (see photo). The bright red line would appear whenever the display was turned off (or during fade-to-black transitions), and during normal video content all of the pixels within that red line were faded out @ around 50% brightness, so it appeared like a faded vertical line in the screen during normal video. I called LG, gave them my serial number and within a couple of weeks they showed up and swapped out the panel for a new one and now I am back up and running. Phew.

My thoughts on OLED break-in:

  • LG OLED TVs only come with a one-year warranty. Perhaps it is better to push your TV hard for that first year to force a failure out of any weak components during the warranty. This way you are not screwed later if something happens after the one-year period. In my experience most weak components in electronics tend to fail early in their life. With such an expensive panel making up for almost 100% of the value of this display perhaps it makes sense to try and push it to failure early?
  • A friend of mine works at LG corporate, he seemed to feel the reason for my display failure was I pushed it too hard, too early in its life without giving it a proper break in.
  • Personally, what I think killed this display was long sessions of 4k HDR, early in its life. Apparently, HDR basically pushes all of the TV settings to the max including brightness which perhaps is the reason that vertical bar of pixels died in my display. We know for a fact it was the panel, not the electronics that actually died because only the panel was replaced and the issue was corrected. After my personal experience with panel failure this is the best I can come up with.
My new plan:

  • I am going to run my new panel for ~200 hours, mostly with non-HDR content (nothing longer than a movie) This should take around 2-3 months. After I hit 200 hours, I will proceed to game on it at 4K/100/HDR intensely (6+ hour sessions of HDR) to see if any issues with my new, second panel arise before my one-year warranty is up and I am screwed.
Other thoughts:

  • I have never in my life purchased an extended warranty through a retailer or third-party. This is literally the first time in my life I am seeing the potential value in an extended warranty for any device. If the panel fails on your brand new $4000 TV 18 months into ownership, you basically own a $4000 brick. It certainly might be worth considering using 3rd party like square trade in this case to get some kind of additional protection. A one-year warranty for an electronic component at this price point is offensive in my opinion. I don’t care about burn-in and issues caused by negligence, I just want protection from non-user related failures like the one I just experienced.
Tell me what you think? I think there are lots and lots of people like me out there that waited specifically for the combination of features: HDMI 2.1/4k/120/HDR so that they could use these OLED panels for gaming in addition to movie watching. Gaming pushes these displays considerably harder than your standard scenario of binging a non-HDR TV show or watching a few movies.

Gaming sessions are of longer session duration, at high resolutions and frame rates, and when paired with HDR (max pixel brightness) and with HDMI 2.1 just recently becoming available I’m not sure there has been enough long-term testing not come with some sort of a early warning failure…

Something like “no continuous sessions longer than 4-hours @ 4k/HDR for the first 200 hours” or something along those lines… Maybe I just got a bad panel, but I am being cautious after this considering I only have 7 month left of warranty.

Some Pics:


Red line of doom :(


Swapping out PCBs to the new 77" panel.
 

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You mean three "lines" (not dots), right? If so, then by default when you click that it will turn off/on demo mode (for demoing AI scaling). AM I missing something?
Three dots on Magic Remote. It is under the 9 key.

Sorry, I thought you were wanting to use the Magic Remote for controlling the Shield Pro. That's all I use now.

But, my Shield remote controls volume too no problem.

You may want to try to re-pair it to the Shield and toggle CEC.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

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Oh. I wanted to have it the other way around, control the tv and shield with the shield remote.

This happened with both my 2017 shield and 2019 shield so I doubt it's a pairing issue. Which shield version do you have? And do you have volume cec turned on or volume ir? Volume ir works for me just fine.

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Oh. I wanted to have it the other way around, control the tv and shield with the shield remote.

This happened with both my 2017 shield and 2019 shield so I doubt it's a pairing issue. Which shield version do you have? And do you have volume cec turned on or volume ir? Volume ir works for me just fine.

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
I have the 2019 Shield Pro. I never expected the Shield remote to navigate the tv, menus and internal apps.
Is there somewhere stating it is suppose to? Not that I would want it to. The Magic Remote is just much better when it comes to settings and having the pointer at my disposal.

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Thinking of replacing my Panny P65ZT60 with the C9. How much brighter will it be?
And if ya'll feel like it could ya give me a couple +'s and -'s about the C9. Appreciat it.
HAPPY FOURTH!
I did the same thing about six months ago, replaced Panny 65ZT60 with 77 C9. Both are calibrated professionally. As good as the Panny plasma is, there really is nothing the C9 doesn’t do better than the Panny, except maybe motion on SDR sports broadcast. I didn’t check the calibration printouts, but know that brightness is significantly improved with the LG OLED, at least one order of magnitude.
 

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I have the 2019 Shield Pro. I never expected the Shield remote to navigate the tv, menus and internal apps.
Is there somewhere stating it is suppose to? Not that I would want it to. The Magic Remote is just much better when it comes to settings and having the pointer at my disposal.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
I don't want to control all features of the tv with the shield remote. My main goal is to control the tv's power and volume with the ahield remote which it clearly states it can when you go to the shield settings. And again, I do not have issues doing this with my old Toshiba 1080p tv.

You said you don't have issues controlling the tv'a volume with the shield remote through cec. Can you post a screenshot showing your volume cec/ir settings in your shield?

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I don't want to control all features of the tv with the shield remote. My main goal is to control the tv's power and volume with the ahield remote which it clearly states it can when you go to the shield settings. And again, I do not have issues doing this with my old Toshiba 1080p tv.

You said you don't have issues controlling the tv'a volume with the shield remote through cec. Can you post a screenshot showing your volume cec/ir settings in your shield?

Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk
Here is my settings.


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Here is my settings.


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So I'm guessing it's because you are controlling your soundbar through CEC, not your TV and that's why it works. In my case, I'm directly connected to the tv, no receiver/soundbar in between.

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Can someone please help me figure out what is this on my xbox one x,it only happens when having the tv on standard mode,its like a circle around txt on the my apps section and sometimes while using the browser on xbox,it dosent happen on any other picture mode only on standard..i tried to connect 3 other sources and i cannot see anything wrong at all only on the xbox one x and on standard mode
 

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I Linked To This Post Of Mine For New Buyers To Read.

Yesterday I Did The Firmware Updates from 3.60 and I Swear The Picture Improved.

Did It Experts? Colors More Vivid Cleaner Picture, More "Depth", Just An Overall Improvement.

The Break-in I Experienced For Sure. Did The firmware Updates Improve The Picture Now Too?
Please stop with the break-in stories - as, for audio, no TV needs a break-in. OLED panels have a natural aging compensation mechanism that may seem to result in a break-in, but that is just the norm for organic light-emitting materials. Please read the FAQ mentioned in the first post of this thread before you post.




My thoughts on OLED break-in:
LG OLED TVs only come with a one-year warranty. Perhaps it is better to push your TV hard for that first year to force a failure out of any weak components during the warranty. This way you are not screwed later if something happens after the one-year period. In my experience most weak components in electronics tend to fail early in their life.
True.

With such an expensive panel making up for almost 100% of the value of this display perhaps it makes sense to try and push it to failure early?
No need to push anything. Your panel failed because it had a hidden defect.


A friend of mine works at LG corporate, he seemed to feel the reason for my display failure was I pushed it too hard, too early in its life without giving it a proper break in.
Nope, your panel failed because it had a hidden defect.
No need to break-in the panel, just use your TV as you want, please read the FAQ mentioned in the first post of this thread.


Personally, what I think killed this display was long sessions of 4k HDR, early in its life.
No, your panel failed because it had a hidden defect. Vertical lines on the panel are quite a common defect. And a vertical line can be sourced also on the motherboard, not only on the panel.

Apparently, HDR basically pushes all of the TV settings to the max including brightness which perhaps is the reason that vertical bar of pixels died in my display.
Nope, you, the owner cannot induce this type of panel failure by just using the TV as any human can do.


I am going to run my new panel for ~200 hours, mostly with non-HDR content (nothing longer than a movie) This should take around 2-3 months. After I hit 200 hours, I will proceed to game on it at 4K/100/HDR intensely (6+ hour sessions of HDR) to see if any issues with my new, second panel arise before my one-year warranty is up and I am screwed.
No need to do any of this, just use the TV as you normally should do.

Did I tell you to read the FAQ?

Please do.
 

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Please stop with the break-in stories - as, for audio, no TV needs a break-in. OLED panels have a natural aging compensation mechanism that may seem to result in a break-in, but that is just the norm for organic light-emitting materials. Please read the FAQ mentioned in the first post of this thread before you post.





True.


No need to push anything. Your panel failed because it had a hidden defect.



Nope, your panel failed because it had a hidden defect.
No need to break-in the panel, just use your TV as you want, please read the FAQ mentioned in the first post of this thread.



No, your panel failed because it had a hidden defect. Vertical lines on the panel are quite a common defect. And a vertical line can be sourced also on the motherboard, not only on the panel.


Nope, you, the owner cannot induce this type of panel failure by just using the TV as any human can do.



No need to do any of this, just use the TV as you normally should do.

Did I tell you to read the FAQ?

Please do.
Well Thank you For Telling Me That My Eyes Did Not See What They Saw. What They Saw Was A Profound Change.

This TV Was Going Back Based On the First Several Hours Of Viewing.

The Longer It Played The Better The Picture Got. Never Experience "break in" in a TV before, the picture has always been the picture.

This TV Changed Profoundly From Out Of The Box. QUOTE: Profoundly.

A friend in the high end printing business says they won't even calibrate their Printers until after 300 hours use.

Again, Yellows were Wrong, Reds were Wrong, and The Entire Picture Looked Tan. All That Self Corrected with "time."

150 Hours Was Way Better, at 300 Hours or Thereabouts It Was An Incredible Picture.

My Question Was Did The Firmware Update From 3.60 Improve The Picture?

Picture is Incredible, Did The Update Take It To Yet Another Level, Or Did I forget How Incredible It Is. Marvelous Picture.

Don't Have The Time Nor The Inclination To Search Through The Book At The Beginning Of This Thread.

This Thread is for People to Help People, Not to be Nasty To People.

Oh, and Two Dealers Agreed With My Assessment.
 

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My Question Was Did The Firmware Update From 3.60 Improve The Picture?
My question is: did you read the FAQ? I guess not...
Because there are LOTS of updates after the "3.60"...

Don't Have The Time Nor The Inclination To Search Through The Book At The Beginning Of This Thread.
No s*it...


This Thread is for People to Help People, Not to be Nasty To People.
You get help when you prove that you make at least an effort to be helped.
 

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Well Thank you For Telling Me That My Eyes Did Not See What They Saw. What They Saw Was A Profound Change.



This TV Was Going Back Based On the First Several Hours Of Viewing.



The Longer It Played The Better The Picture Got. Never Experience "break in" in a TV before, the picture has always been the picture.



This TV Changed Profoundly From Out Of The Box. QUOTE: Profoundly.



A friend in the high end printing business says they won't even calibrate their Printers until after 300 hours use.



Again, Yellows were Wrong, Reds were Wrong, and The Entire Picture Looked Tan. All That Self Corrected with "time."



150 Hours Was Way Better, at 300 Hours or Thereabouts It Was An Incredible Picture.



My Question Was Did The Firmware Update From 3.60 Improve The Picture?



Picture is Incredible, Did The Update Take It To Yet Another Level, Or Did I forget How Incredible It Is. Marvelous Picture.



Don't Have The Time Nor The Inclination To Search Through The Book At The Beginning Of This Thread.



This Thread is for People to Help People, Not to be Nasty To People.



Oh, and Two Dealers Agreed With My Assessment.
You also need to put some effort into reading & searching as well.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk
 
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