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The audio return channel (ARC) is used so you can play audio FROM your TV through your AVR. Your Yamaha is being automatically switched to AUDIO 1, because that is how it receives the audio FROM your TV (the TV's internal OTA tuner, internal apps, and any devices connected directly to the TV) over the ARC HDMI cable. For any devices that are connected directly to your Yamaha AVR, you must select the appropriate input (such as AV2 for your cable box). If the cable box were connected to the TV instead, then you could use the ARC over HDMI OUT 1/ARC/AUDIO 1.

Because ARC is inseparable from CEC (Consumer Electronic Control) I don't know of any way to have ARC active without CEC turning the AVR on and triggering the AVR's ARC input with the TV. I just turn the TV on, and then after it's done turning the AVR on and switching to the ARC input, I switch to whatever input I want to use. The C9 is of course insistent on switching my AVR back to the ARC input anytime I switch inputs or apps on it.
There seems to be some weirdness in Yamaha’s CEC implementation. I’ve been playing around with it and re-reading manual as I’m using a Sharc. I have an older Yamaha AVR 679. As soon as I switch HDMI Control on (even with ARC off, as I’m not using the AVR ARC input now and its not wired to C9’s ARC port) the AVR always thinks its receiving an TV input signal (i.e. ARC) and duly switches the speaker sound to AV1 input (or whichever AV audio input you’ve configure). I can’t see why its doing this and my AVR won’t let you specify the HDMI inputs as the “sound source” from TV - my Sharc feeds into AVR HDMI1.
Not sure that helps! Probably best in the eARC thread though...


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Why so low?
Actually 30 is on the high side for Reference SDR (where the peak white should be 100 nits). For models with Filmmaker mode, OLED light is 25, and on my C8 in SDR Technicolor mode again OLED Light is 25 which when I measured mine was closer to 100 nits. It's definitely not an accident that Filmmaker mode has OLED Light=25.

But for some people, Reference SDR is a little bit too dark, so you can target 120nits. For me ISF Dark SDR I personally use OLED Light=35 which gave me 124.7 nits. Some people go even higher still - every panel is different but for me, OLED Light=50 gave 162.2 nits and OLED Light=60 gave a whopping 185.1 nits. I don't even go that high for daytime viewing, but every room is different.

But higher values than that, would be torch mode / TV sales-floor stuff in a super-bright environment, and miles away from Reference / mastering intent.
 

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Discussion Starter #16,083
Does anyone get a white line at the bottom of their C9 when watching content from Apple's store?
 

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I understand that during HDR mode, the TV will auto-detect and set OLED light to 100 but it isnt the case for mine. So for example, if I watch the usual news channels at 50 than I switch to Amazon Prime or Youtube HDR, it doesnt automatically increase to 100. Any settings that I need to enable?
 

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Does anyone get a white line at the bottom of their C9 when watching content from Apple's store?
Yeah noticed this the other day, I usually get it for like a millisecond when switching between apps on the Apple TV.

I’ve started to use the WebOS apps more now since I don’t THINK there’s any difference in audio/video quality between the WebOS apps and the AppleTv apps
 

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i'm having lipsync issues despite both receiver yamaha v585 and c9 as eARC (which i was told should fix this). Anyone else still have issues? and if so are you using the tv lipsync adjustments or your receivers? Not sure if the issue is only from external devices (directv/ps4) or also with internal apps like netflix and plex.
I would check to see if it is from apps only or your external devises only. If it is one or the other you can narrow it down to the receiver or the TV.
 

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On another issue, anyone pairing the TV with bluetooth headphones like Sony XM3/XM4 or B&W PX7?
I use another brand. I have a pair of SteelSeries headphones. (In my Sig.) always go in to sounds selected BT and they pair.
 

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I understand that during HDR mode, the TV will auto-detect and set OLED light to 100 but it isnt the case for mine. So for example, if I watch the usual news channels at 50 than I switch to Amazon Prime or Youtube HDR, it doesnt automatically increase to 100. Any settings that I need to enable?
Are U sure HDR was triggered ?

HDR or Dolby Vision won’t come on until you play a movie or TV show. If u are still on YouTube or prime video menu, it is still on SDR

Once you start playing a HDR movie or TV show, u will see a notification or flag at the right top corner saying HDR is now on. Your OLED light should go up to 100

The whole process is automatic. No need to make any setting change


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for the eARC crowd, passthrough or auto?

The LG web manual doesn't seem to provide a lot of info here other than dts-hd and truehd may be supported with passthrough?
 

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Pass through in the sound out menu. Bitstream on the HDMI input menu.
any reason bitstream? I just tested with both passthrough and pcm selected as the manual suggests selecting pcm if there are lagging issues and in some sampling across a few devices it looks like my lipsync is fixed, but of course I'm not sure which option did the trick or what the ramifications of pcm mode under the hdmi menu are.
 

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any reason bitstream? I just tested with both passthrough and pcm selected as the manual suggests selecting pcm if there are lagging issues and in some sampling across a few devices it looks like my lipsync is fixed, but of course I'm not sure which option did the trick or what the ramifications of pcm mode under the hdmi menu are.
There is no pass through in the HDMI input screen, only Bitstream and PCM. You do not want PCM on either of the two screens. Auto tends to try to convert things so leave the one in the Sound Out menu on Pass through.

Sound Out.jpg HDMI Input.jpg
 

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There is no pass through in the HDMI input screen, only Bitstream and PCM. You do not want PCM on either of the two screens. Auto tends to try to convert things so leave the one in the Sound Out menu on Pass through.

View attachment 3028190 View attachment 3028191
ok so forgive me again for asking, but why do I not want PCM? After rechecking the settings I realize that comment in the manual was only regarding instant game response, but when I had this enabled my receiver was still showing dts, dd or dd+
Capture.PNG


the below also had me hopeful I could pass dts-hd and truehd through from the plex app, but alas it would downconvert to dd+ and dts
Capture2.PNG
 

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ok so forgive me again for asking, but why do I not want PCM? After rechecking the settings I realize that comment in the manual was only regarding instant game response, but when I had this enabled my receiver was still showing dts, dd or dd+

the below also had me hopeful I could pass dts-hd and truehd through from the plex app, but alas it would downconvert to dd+ and dts
PCM on either menu will force LPCM Stereo. You do not want this.

Setting Sound Out to Auto will downmix to what will fit over ARC. You want Pass through here.

What AVR do you have?
 

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yeah i understand PCM, just odd that my receiver isn't showing PCM, and yes I get that it should. I have a yamaha v585.
 

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I personally love a steal, thats a great price but not a slap you in the face deal. You could call LG and see what they think or return the set. Anything wrong with the 65B6? Sure the C9 is 3 years newer but that B6 is no slouch.
65B6 was fine. I was just itching to upgrade. I ended up returning the refurb 65C9 to Microcenter. I'll slum it with the B6 awhile longer ;) At least until the 77"s drop just a touch more.
 
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