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If you use pc black level for the Xbox you cannot see the eye on the Xbox calibration - so use standard level and low.
You're not supposed to see the eye after adjusting the brightness. With an OLED, the blacks are so low that it's difficult to see where it really completely disappears. If you put the console at standard(16-235) and the C9 on high (0-255) you'll see that the closed eye is the same as the first box on the scale which is outside the tick marks. The tick marks are at 16 and 235. Here's what I'm talking about with standard/high so you can see that it's outside the 16-235 range:

IMG_0021.jpg

If you look at the sun screen you'll see that it's also outside the tick marks on the colour scale. But here they put a warning that it might not be visible on some TVs. Ironically the C9 doesn't clip at 235 and does show the sun (when using standard/low).

So if you don't want to adjust your set outside of the recommended settings, don't try to get it to show the closed eye. Just make sure you can see all the boxes between the tick marks. If you're running standard/low then the sun will be visible and if you're running PC/high it won't. Both those are OK.

I think this is a result of the C9 (and other OLEDs) super low black level. There's just no room to show "blacker than black" signal levels without cranking the brightness way out of calibration.
 

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I don't have a Xbox, but try Standard in the Xbox color space, Low for Black level.
Set Gamma to 2.4 Increase the Oled light to compensate for the Gamma, like 60-70 for 200nits
Ugh, no. My set is calibrated, not going to butcher the settings to throw it out of calibration.

I can change to standard/low and it looks exactly the same. My boxes between the tick marks are still all distinct.
 

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If you use pc black level for the Xbox you cannot see the eye on the Xbox calibration - so use standard level and low.
Forgot to mention.

IMG_0022.jpg

It says to adjust brightness until the closed eye just disappears (stops being visible). That happens to me at 52-54 (still have a bit of ambient light and my eyes are getting old). Close enough that I can leave it on the calibrated 50.
 

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Has anyone played Control?
The blacks and dark scenes in this game are so grey and highlighted it's an eye sore. I know it's not my TV or my settings as all my other games are jaw dropping.

I feel like it's so inconsistent, one area will look absolutely amazing in its full ray tracing glory, the next will look like this: (skip to 3mins50)
https://youtu.be/5wty70bih3I

Any opinions?

Yeah, just started playing it - really annoys me. Looks pretty awful.


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By the way, on the topic of Control, what is your in-game brightness setting? The default is 50 and it says adjust it so the middle icon is barely visible. On my c9 (with gsync enabled) 40 is when the middle icon completely disappears so I leave it at 41, but I feel like the game crushes black (evident during the loading screen of that spinning crystal thing. At brightness 41 the right half of the screen is too dark to see any details). Should I just ignore the instruction by not touching that brightness slider and leaving it at default 50?
 

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Forgot to mention.

View attachment 2707064

It says to adjust brightness until the closed eye just disappears (stops being visible). That happens to me at 52-54 (still have a bit of ambient light and my eyes are getting old). Close enough that I can leave it on the calibrated 50.

Mine disappears at 55. I feel if I drop it to 50 it’ll definitely crush blacks. Also, the Xbox calibration has my contrast at 95. I have mine on black levels low and standard on my Xbox.


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Mine disappears at 55. I feel if I drop it to 50 it’ll definitely crush blacks. Also, the Xbox calibration has my contrast at 95. I have mine on black levels low and standard on my Xbox.
I can still see mine at 55. At 54 it mostly is gone. At 53 I can barely see it.

I can switch between standard/low and PC/high without any difference to the grey ramp boxes. The whiter than white (sun) disappears but games don’t use WtW.

When you have time, try Gamma 2.2, OLED light 40, Contrast 85 and Brightness 50. Does the brightness ramp have all the distinct boxes between the tick marks for you with these settings?
 

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Ugh, no. My set is calibrated, not going to butcher the settings to throw it out of calibration.

I can change to standard/low and it looks exactly the same. My boxes between the tick marks are still all distinct.
Was it calibrated by a pro or by yourself through Autocal, Also I don't have a x-box but do games not have there own in-game brightness control or brightness control in the main x-box menu
If the Tv was pro calibrated I wouldn't mess with either but if it was autocal that may be the issue
 

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Was it calibrated by a pro or by yourself through Autocal, Also I don't have a x-box but do games not have there own in-game brightness control or brightness control in the main x-box menu
If the Tv was pro calibrated I wouldn't mess with either but if it was autocal that may be the issue

Pro.

The Xbox system settings don’t have brightness controls. Just calibration screens. The grey ramp looks perfect there for me. People mistakenly think that the closed eye image needs to be visible when in fact it’s outside the standard/low range.

Many games have brightness controls. The ones that do get a fine tuning there. Especially for HDR.
 

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I can still see mine at 55. At 54 it mostly is gone. At 53 I can barely see it.

I can switch between standard/low and PC/high without any difference to the grey ramp boxes. The whiter than white (sun) disappears but games don’t use WtW.

When you have time, try Gamma 2.2, OLED light 40, Contrast 85 and Brightness 50. Does the brightness ramp have all the distinct boxes between the tick marks for you with these settings?

I think the problem with the Xbox is it does a bad job at explaining things. For contrast it say raise the contrast until the sun is barely visible which is 95, but then you can see that white is clipping at that point. At 85 I can see all the white distinct boxes. With brightness it says turn it all the way up then turn it down until the large closed eye just disappears. But, when it disappears which is 55 for me I can’t see the last 2 black boxes. The last for black boxes all look the same level of black. I’ve always had gamma set to 2.2


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I think the problem with the Xbox is it does a bad job at explaining things. For contrast it say raise the contrast until the sun is barely visible which is 95, but then you can see that white is clipping at that point. At 85 I can see all the white distinct boxes. With brightness it says turn it all the way up then turn it down until the large closed eye just disappears. But, when it disappears which is 55 for me I can’t see the last 2 black boxes. The last for black boxes all look the same level of black. I’ve always had gamma set to 2.2
Yeah, I think it was designed for LCD.

Now when you say you can’t see the last 2 black boxes, are those the ones to the left or the right of the two white tick marks?

IMG_0010.jpg


The first two boxes, which are to the left of the white ticks, are supposed to be black. The third box, which is to the right of the ticks, is also supposed to be black. The fourth box is not supposed to be black and distinct from the third box.

The OLED Light of 75 was to get a better picture. I normally have it at 40. And it’s at my normal 50 brightness.
 

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I think the problem with the Xbox is it does a bad job at explaining things. For contrast it say raise the contrast until the sun is barely visible which is 95, but then you can see that white is clipping at that point. At 85 I can see all the white distinct boxes. With brightness it says turn it all the way up then turn it down until the large closed eye just disappears. But, when it disappears which is 55 for me I can’️t see the last 2 black boxes. The last for black boxes all look the same level of black. I’️ve always had gamma set to 2.2
Yeah, I think it was designed for LCD.

Now when you say you can’️t see the last 2 black boxes, are those the ones to the left or the right of the two white tick marks?

View attachment 2707238


The first two boxes, which are to the left of the white ticks, are supposed to be black. The third box, which is to the right of the ticks, is also supposed to be black. The fourth box is not supposed to be black and distinct from the third box.

The OLED Light of 75 was to get a better picture. I normally have it at 40. And it’️s at my normal 50 brightness.
You're exactly right in my experience! I think its pretty safe to set contrast to 84 or 85 and Brightness to 50 or 51 depending on the panel unless there are some unforeseen issues. I agree that it seems poorly designed for oled tvs.
 

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Yeah, I think it was designed for LCD.

Now when you say you can’t see the last 2 black boxes, are those the ones to the left or the right of the two white tick marks?

View attachment 2707238


The first two boxes, which are to the left of the white ticks, are supposed to be black. The third box, which is to the right of the ticks, is also supposed to be black. The fourth box is not supposed to be black and distinct from the third box.

The OLED Light of 75 was to get a better picture. I normally have it at 40. And it’s at my normal 50 brightness.

Thanks for the info. I guess like you said this wasn’t design for OLEDs. I have the blacks setup properly now. I but my brightness on 50. For contrast I left it on 85 which I can see a difference with all of my white boxes. Thanks man..


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So this pulsating oval-shaped banding is still an issue in game mode on the c9. Switching to other modes will make it go away. Luckily Instant Game Response gives us low input lag on all modes. If you are gaming on the c9, enable Instant Game Response and switch to other modes instead of game mode. Gsync that comes with Instant Game Response will screw up the near-black gamma as pointed out in my earlier posts (still unresolved at this point) but at least this oval will not be there.

https://i.imgur.com/d79xdxw.jpg

FFS this issue has been there since the C6. It's frustrating that it's so hard to contact LG and let them know.
 

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So this pulsating oval-shaped banding is still an issue in game mode on the c9. Switching to other modes will make it go away. Luckily Instant Game Response gives us low input lag on all modes. If you are gaming on the c9, enable Instant Game Response and switch to other modes instead of game mode. Gsync that comes with Instant Game Response will screw up the near-black gamma as pointed out in my earlier posts (still unresolved at this point) but at least this oval will not be there.

https://i.imgur.com/d79xdxw.jpg

FFS this issue has been there since the C6. It's frustrating that it's so hard to contact LG and let them know.
Ah Okay, I never use games mode since "instant game mode" was introduced, Before I used Pc mode choose ISF Dark/Night, Now in VRR I do the same ISF Dark/Night.
Reason being that there the two modes I calibrated for. Dark for 100nits DAY 220 nits
I always had a thing for Game mode going back to the B7
So is this case closed with this near-black uniformity on your side besides stating away from Game Mode
 

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Ah Okay, I never use games mode since "instant game mode" was introduced, Before I used Pc mode choose ISF Dark/Night, Now in VRR I do the same ISF Dark/Night.
Reason being that there the two modes I calibrated for. Dark for 100nits DAY 220 nits
I always had a thing for Game mode going back to the B7
So is this case closed with this near-black uniformity on your side besides stating away from Game Mode

I still use game mode for hdr games so I can use hgig which turns off the tonemapping of the display. Most games allow you to adjust the peak brightness so you can avoid clipping without having to tonemap at all.
 

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I still use game mode for hdr games so I can use hgig which turns off the tonemapping of the display. Most games allow you to adjust the peak brightness so you can avoid clipping without having to tonemap at all.
If you turn off tone-mapping rather than HGIG, it defaults to 4 different tone map Curves built in the Tv. One being 10000nit, this is was made for gaming and other content and should show little to no difference compared to HGIG. This has been my experience so far anyway, I actually prefer DTM myself, but it does depend on the content(game)
Again since you have VRR you can use any preset you want, only game-mode has HGIG which is not a standard in games just yet, not to my knowledge anyway haven't googled it in a while
 

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If you turn off tone-mapping rather than HGIG, it defaults to 4 different tone map Curves built in the Tv. One being 10000nit, this is was made for gaming and other content and should show little to no difference compared to HGIG.
I’ve done some comparisons on scenes with very bright areas. There is a noticeable difference between HGIG on or off in those areas.
 

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I’ve done some comparisons on scenes with very bright areas. There is a noticeable difference between HGIG on or off in those areas.
Ya I have recently done some research since the last post and it seems there something more to it alright. Even if the game is not HGIG (I think COD is the only one at the moment) people have found difference's between the two. I have not touched it myself for a while so just using the knowledge I have, Which do you prefer? DTM-HGIG-OFF
 

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Ya I have recently done some research since the last post and it seems there something more to it alright. Even if the game is not HGIG (I think COD is the only one at the moment) people have found difference's between the two. I have not touched it myself for a while so just using the knowledge I have, Which do you prefer? DTM-HGIG-OFF
HGIG for any game that has a max brightness calibration. Off for everything else. DTM is never use on my TV, games or movies.
 
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