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How about motion? You notice any real improvement?
Not exactly. Since they have the same internals with the exception of the speaker set up, they kind of perform the same. The ironic thing is that motion for me was actually the one area of a hint of disappointment, because I felt my 900e actually performed better in the motion department than my 950G. But that's just a nit pick for me..... otherwise it's a great set!

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Thanks all for your responses. I haven't been disappointed with the black levels or blooming on my set. Perhaps coming from plasma I like a slightly darker picture and the Custom defaults with Brightness around 15 in moderately lit family room setting works pretty well.

On the other hand, coming from a plasma the motion is the one area I feel I lost as not nearly as fluid as my prior plasma. I was rather happy with my 59" plasma but got the upgrade bug and got caught up in finally getting a 4K TV as been considering for 3 years. I was looking at oled but was concerned with potential burn in with our family room use case and then just couldn't pass up the incredible deal I got on the 65" G set. I went with the Sony because of its motion processing but I'm still struggling a bit in this area so was hoping for some improvement and curious if H firmware on G may be beneficial.
 

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Thanks all for your responses. I haven't been disappointed with the black levels or blooming on my set. Perhaps coming from plasma I like a slightly darker picture and the Custom defaults with Brightness around 15 in moderately lit family room setting works pretty well.

On the other hand, coming from a plasma the motion is the one area I feel I lost as not nearly as fluid as my prior plasma. I was rather happy with my 59" plasma but got the upgrade bug and got caught up in finally getting a 4K TV as been considering for 3 years. I was looking at oled but was concerned with potential burn in with our family room use case and then just couldn't pass up the incredible deal I got on the 65" G set. I went with the Sony because of its motion processing but I'm still struggling a bit in this area so was hoping for some improvement and curious if H firmware on G may be beneficial.
When you say Brightness on 15--are you referring to SDR ? I believe HDR has a default brightness of MAX
 

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Yes as watching sports on Fios TV broadcast in 1080i.
Got it. I will have to try that, I have yet to find settings that I love for everything (all formats).
The TV overall looks pretty great, but always room for improvement.
I got a bunch of color balance settings from someone who had a calibration done recently, but to my understanding, every panel is different so maybe these wont look so hot on mine.
I continue to be amazed at just how well this TV upscales non-4K content.
I watch things like the Office on Netflix and can't believe it isn't 4k.
Conversely, I had an H9G recently and although that set had an excellent HDR picture(but red blurring motion issues, hence return), it really cant hang on upscaling at all(in comparison).
 

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Does anybody have the 85 inch version of this tv and installed the x900h firmware and found a good difference in quality?
Wasn't aware that you could download the 900h firmware for the x950g..... especially considering they have different internals.

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I do and I have. Not sure about the quality difference. I liked it before and still like it. I definitely like the new menu.
Did you really install the 900H firmware or was it actually 950H? Quite honestly, I don't think it would work with 900H, but I may be mistaken.
 

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Thanks all for your responses. I haven't been disappointed with the black levels or blooming on my set. Perhaps coming from plasma I like a slightly darker picture and the Custom defaults with Brightness around 15 in moderately lit family room setting works pretty well.

On the other hand, coming from a plasma the motion is the one area I feel I lost as not nearly as fluid as my prior plasma. I was rather happy with my 59" plasma but got the upgrade bug and got caught up in finally getting a 4K TV as been considering for 3 years. I was looking at oled but was concerned with potential burn in with our family room use case and then just couldn't pass up the incredible deal I got on the 65" G set. I went with the Sony because of its motion processing but I'm still struggling a bit in this area so was hoping for some improvement and curious if H firmware on G may be beneficial.
Hello fellow plasma appreciator and 950G owner.

To cut through any bull, a modern sample-and-hold television cannot match the effortless/natural motion handling of a plasma. Period. Thanks to their impulse/subfield driving methodology, plasmas were effectively refreshing 600 times per second. Modern LCD/LED/OLED televisions can’t touch that no matter what gimmickry they use. (BFI/scan/interpolation/etc) You’re either dealing with blur due to low motion resolution, stutter due to high frame hold, or artifacts/SOE due to interpolation. The only way to level the playing field is to watch nothing but 120fps content, but that’s not happening. Motion handling remains one of my highest priorities when it comes to PQ and, as such, my plasmas remain the displays I watch the most in my home. They have an overall better picture than the CX I returned and a better picture than the 85” 950G I have in my media room. (running 220v and tracking down a large screen commercial plasma is just a bridge too far)

But I’ll give you some advice on your motion concerns. First thing to know is that Sony TVs do not have ideal settings that handle both 60fps and sub-60fps (ex 24p) content. You’re ideally going to want to set up two profiles that are identical save for the motion settings. The best way to do this is to unlock your custom for pro 1 and custom for pro 2 calibration profiles. To do this, download the Calman for Bravia app on your TV via the Play store. Launch it and make sure you have a PC/tablet/phone on the exact same network as your 950G. (ex. have them both connected via your 2.4ghz WiFi band) Bring up your browser of choice on your device and type in the address with port number exactly as it appears on your TV. (ex. http://192.168.1.71:9022/) Once your TV displays its status as “connected” you’re done and these profiles will be available for use on all inputs. (they measure identically to the Custom profile — you can also use Cinema as your secondary to Custom as that also measures very close with all settings equal)

My “primary” profile that I use with most content has Motionflow set to custom with smoothness at min and clearness at 1. This is ideal for all sub- 60fps material. My secondary profile for 60fps material (ex. sports) has motionflow set to 2 with clearness at 1. Cinemotion is set to off for both profiles. To explain Cinemotion, it does nothing unless motionflow is activated. If it’s active with smoothness set to min, it will not touch 60fps content while attempting to interpolate sub-60fps content. It will also take 24p content in a 60hz wrapper (i.e. most content on your cable television provider or movies/shows from internal smart apps) and display it at 5:5 without judder. While this sounds good, the processing is noticeable and it looks stuttery or appears as though there’s additional ghosting when this is active. Furthermore, if this processing detects multiple framerates (like a news ticker at the bottom of a broadcast) it tends to freak out, cause erratic stutter, and/or dropped frames. In short, use Cinemotion at your own risk. Nobody wants judder, but the trade offs aren’t anywhere close to worth it IMO. Another thing to note, motionflow smoothness higher than min will always cause interpolation/SOE on sub-60fps content but will not cause interpolation on 60fps content unless Cinemotion is activated.

The sub-60fps motion settings are self explanatory. You add smoothness to these framerates, it adds interpolation/SOE. An easy way to subjectively test the 60fps settings is YouTube via the internal app or external streaming device. (I primarily use an Apple TV 4K) This video and this video can be used. Turning clearness from min to 1 reproduces cleaner lines and more legible text. Going to 2 doesn’t yield much, if any, discernible difference. This does, however, greatly limit light output. That isn’t such a big deal for SDR content, but it absolutely kills a lot of HDR content. Bringing smoothness from min to 1 yields a difference as does 1 to 2. Going to max smoothness doesn’t yield much, if any, discernible difference but I have seen it cause motion artifacts. It’s also slightly less jarring going from a 60fps football game to a 24fps commercial when smoothness is at 2 instead of 3. And again, turning up this smoothness setting will increase motion resolution on 60fps content without introducing SOE. It will produce SOE on sub-60fps content and should remain off for this content. Clearness will not negatively impact motion but will lessen smearing/ghosting on all content.

Bonus: let’s talk blooming because it’s certainly the Achilles heel of this television. (but, IMO, is preferable to intrusive dimming that crushes detail) It’s really not a problem with SDR content but can be obvious with HDR content. An easily accessible stress test is Hereditary on Prime Video. About an hour in there’s a dinner scene. In SDR, (use search, there’s two versions) it’s handled by the 950G without issue. With the UHD/HDR version, as the camera is cutting from family member to family member you’ll notice the backlight obviously increasing/decreasing where lamps are placed behind the actors. Rewatch this scene with multiple local dimming settings. Medium is technically considered to be the most accurate setting, but high barely makes a difference on 99%+ of content. This, however, is one scenario where it improves PQ as it lessens this blooming. It’s still plenty noticeable, but any improvement is welcome. I keep local dimming set to high for all sources/dynamic ranges and can’t claim to have noticed any adverse effects. X-tended dynamic range seems like it should make a difference here, but doesn’t. Setting that to anything other than high for HDR/Dolby Vision will also clip white detail which can be mostly retrieved by adjusting contrast, but that leads to another whole host of issues. So keep XDR set to high for HDR/DV and off for SDR. I’ll also throw out that SDR is reproduced exceedingly well by this television and I have no problem with watching something like Hereditary this way even if HDR is available. Whatever let’s you best watch the content and not the display tech is the way to go, IMO

Worth noting, Dolby Vision Bright tracks correctly for external devices but Dolby Vision Dark doesn’t. DV Dark tracks correctly for internal apps but DV Bright doesn’t. So use DV Bright for external devices and DV Dark if you’re using the built in apps.

Another note, I updated to the H series firmware. Reason being is because I install televisions and it ran so much better than what was on the G. I would also get random reboots and flashing that firmware solved that problem completely. I have not, however, noticed any difference in blooming, motion, or PQ in general since updating to the H firmware and believe any such differences that anyone has noticed is placebo. (alternatively, I’m just cynical) Update to that software if you want a smoother interface, but I’ve read this may lead to updating issues with internal smart apps. (again, I run off of an external device for everything save for the occasional 4K HDR YouTube videos since ATV4K still doesn’t support it)

Full settings because why not? Note my media room is light controlled but I always have it fully lit. Your ambient lighting or personal preference may dictate a different brightness setting.

SDR
Custom/ For Pro 1/For Pro 2

Auto Picture Off
Light Sensor Off

Brightness 12
Contrast 90
Gamma -2
Black Level 50
Black Adjust Off
Adv Contrast Enhancer Off
Auto Local Dimming High
XDR Off

Color 50
Hue 0
Color Temp Expert 1
Live Color Off

Sharpness 50
Reality Creation Off
Random/DiNoise Reduction Off
Smooth Gradation Off

Motionflow Custom
Smoothness Min for sub-60fps, 2 for 60fps
Clearness 1
Cinemotion Off

Video Signal
All Auto

Adv Color Temp
All Default (do not adjust without a colorimeter)

HDR

All the same as above except
Brightness Max
Gamma 0
XDR High

Dolby Vision
Dolby Vision Bright

All the same as SDR except
Brightness Max
XDR High

Cheers!
 

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Hello fellow plasma appreciator and 950G owner.

To cut through any bull, a modern sample-and-hold television cannot match the effortless/natural motion handling of a plasma. Period. Thanks to their impulse/subfield driving methodology, plasmas were effectively refreshing 600 times per second. Modern LCD/LED/OLED televisions can’t touch that no matter what gimmickry they use. (BFI/scan/interpolation/etc) You’re either dealing with blur due to low motion resolution, stutter due to high frame hold, or artifacts/SOE due to interpolation. The only way to level the playing field is to watch nothing but 120fps content, but that’s not happening. Motion handling remains one of my highest priorities when it comes to PQ and, as such, my plasmas remain the displays I watch the most in my home. They have an overall better picture than the CX I returned and a better picture than the 85” 950G I have in my media room. (running 220v and tracking down a large screen commercial plasma is just a bridge too far)

But I’ll give you some advice on your motion concerns. First thing to know is that Sony TVs do not have ideal settings that handle both 60fps and sub-60fps (ex 24p) content. You’re ideally going to want to set up two profiles that are identical save for the motion settings. The best way to do this is to unlock your custom for pro 1 and custom for pro 2 calibration profiles. To do this, download the Calman for Bravia app on your TV via the Play store. Launch it and make sure you have a PC/tablet/phone on the exact same network as your 950G. (ex. have them both connected via your 2.4ghz WiFi band) Bring up your browser of choice on your device and type in the address with port number exactly as it appears on your TV. (ex. http://192.168.1.71:9022/) Once your TV displays its status as “connected” you’re done and these profiles will be available for use on all inputs. (they measure identically to the Custom profile — you can also use Cinema as your secondary to Custom as that also measures very close with all settings equal)

My “primary” profile that I use with most content has Motionflow set to custom with smoothness at min and clearness at 1. This is ideal for all sub- 60fps material. My secondary profile for 60fps material (ex. sports) has motionflow set to 2 with clearness at 1. Cinemotion is set to off for both profiles. To explain Cinemotion, it does nothing unless motionflow is activated. If it’s active with smoothness set to min, it will not touch 60fps content while attempting to interpolate sub-60fps content. It will also take 24p content in a 60hz wrapper (i.e. most content on your cable television provider or movies/shows from internal smart apps) and display it at 5:5 without judder. While this sounds good, the processing is noticeable and it looks stuttery or appears as though there’s additional ghosting when this is active. Furthermore, if this processing detects multiple framerates (like a news ticker at the bottom of a broadcast) it tends to freak out, cause erratic stutter, and/or dropped frames. In short, use Cinemotion at your own risk. Nobody wants judder, but the trade offs aren’t anywhere close to worth it IMO. Another thing to note, motionflow smoothness higher than min will always cause interpolation/SOE on sub-60fps content but will not cause interpolation on 60fps content unless Cinemotion is activated.

The sub-60fps motion settings are self explanatory. You add smoothness to these framerates, it adds interpolation/SOE. An easy way to subjectively test the 60fps settings is YouTube via the internal app or external streaming device. (I primarily use an Apple TV 4K) This video and this video can be used. Turning clearness from min to 1 reproduces cleaner lines and more legible text. Going to 2 doesn’t yield much, if any, discernible difference. This does, however, greatly limit light output. That isn’t such a big deal for SDR content, but it absolutely kills a lot of HDR content. Bringing smoothness from min to 1 yields a difference as does 1 to 2. Going to max smoothness doesn’t yield much, if any, discernible difference but I have seen it cause motion artifacts. It’s also slightly less jarring going from a 60fps football game to a 24fps commercial when smoothness is at 2 instead of 3. And again, turning up this smoothness setting will increase motion resolution on 60fps content without introducing SOE. It will produce SOE on sub-60fps content and should remain off for this content. Clearness will not negatively impact motion but will lessen smearing/ghosting on all content.

Bonus: let’s talk blooming because it’s certainly the Achilles heel of this television. (but, IMO, is preferable to intrusive dimming that crushes detail) It’s really not a problem with SDR content but can be obvious with HDR content. An easily accessible stress test is Hereditary on Prime Video. About an hour in there’s a dinner scene. In SDR, (use search, there’s two versions) it’s handled by the 950G without issue. With the UHD/HDR version, as the camera is cutting from family member to family member you’ll notice the backlight obviously increasing/decreasing where lamps are placed behind the actors. Rewatch this scene with multiple local dimming settings. Medium is technically considered to be the most accurate setting, but high barely makes a difference on 99%+ of content. This, however, is one scenario where it improves PQ as it lessens this blooming. It’s still plenty noticeable, but any improvement is welcome. I keep local dimming set to high for all sources/dynamic ranges and can’t claim to have noticed any adverse effects. X-tended dynamic range seems like it should make a difference here, but doesn’t. Setting that to anything other than high for HDR/Dolby Vision will also clip white detail which can be mostly retrieved by adjusting contrast, but that leads to another whole host of issues. So keep XDR set to high for HDR/DV and off for SDR. I’ll also throw out that SDR is reproduced exceedingly well by this television and I have no problem with watching something like Hereditary this way even if HDR is available. Whatever let’s you best watch the content and not the display tech is the way to go, IMO

Worth noting, Dolby Vision Bright tracks correctly for external devices but Dolby Vision Dark doesn’t. DV Dark tracks correctly for internal apps but DV Bright doesn’t. So use DV Bright for external devices and DV Dark if you’re using the built in apps.

Another note, I updated to the H series firmware. Reason being is because I install televisions and it ran so much better than what was on the G. I would also get random reboots and flashing that firmware solved that problem completely. I have not, however, noticed any difference in blooming, motion, or PQ in general since updating to the H firmware and believe any such differences that anyone has noticed is placebo. (alternatively, I’m just cynical) Update to that software if you want a smoother interface, but I’ve read this may lead to updating issues with internal smart apps. (again, I run off of an external device for everything save for the occasional 4K HDR YouTube videos since ATV4K still doesn’t support it)

Full settings because why not? Note my media room is light controlled but I always have it fully lit. Your ambient lighting or personal preference may dictate a different brightness setting.

SDR
Custom/ For Pro 1/For Pro 2

Auto Picture Off
Light Sensor Off

Brightness 12
Contrast 90
Gamma -2
Black Level 50
Black Adjust Off
Adv Contrast Enhancer Off
Auto Local Dimming High
XDR Off

Color 50
Hue 0
Color Temp Expert 1
Live Color Off

Sharpness 50
Reality Creation Off
Random/DiNoise Reduction Off
Smooth Gradation Off

Motionflow Custom
Smoothness Min for sub-60fps, 2 for 60fps
Clearness 1
Cinemotion Off

Video Signal
All Auto

Adv Color Temp
All Default (do not adjust without a colorimeter)

HDR

All the same as above except
Brightness Max
Gamma 0
XDR High

Dolby Vision
Dolby Vision Bright

All the same as SDR except
Brightness Max
XDR High

Cheers!
Interesting. I immediately noticed a difference when I updated my firmware to 950H.
AFTER I did a hard reset (via physical buttons). Prior to that, I noticed the menus changed to the 950H menus, but nothing changed PQ-wise.
If you think the 950 G/H AND the CX OLED has inferior motion to an old plasma than you are going to have problems with pretty much every TV on the market.
I own a older Panny plasma, a 950G (with H firmware) and a CX7 OLED.
The CX7 is hands down has the best PQ of the three and I don't see any motion issues with any of them.
But I understand some people are very sensitive to motion(I think you fall into this category maybe ?). I don't know many people though who would choose a 1080P plasma over ANY 4K OLED.
 

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Interesting. I immediately noticed a difference when I updated my firmware to 950H.
AFTER I did a hard reset (via physical buttons). Prior to that, I noticed the menus changed to the 950H menus, but nothing changed PQ-wise.
If you think the 950 G/H AND the CX OLED has inferior motion to an old plasma than you are going to have problems with pretty much every TV on the market.
I own a older Panny plasma, a 950G (with H firmware) and a CX7 OLED.
The CX7 is hands down has the best PQ of the three and I don't see any motion issues with any of them.
But I understand some people are very sensitive to motion(I think you fall into this category maybe ?). I don't know many people though who would choose a 1080P plasma over ANY 4K OLED.
-So you did the hold up on remote/power button on TV hard reset? Or did you do the hold down power button soft reset?

-I do have a problem with every TV currently on the market as I’ve always had with sample-and-hold displays. They’re measurably inferior to impulse-based displays. Subjectively, some believe that the combination of faster panels and improved BFI/interpolation algorithms has closed the gap. I am not in this camp.

-Most people buy a cheap TV or the brightest one on the wall, take it home, and run it in out-of-box settings.
 

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After 4 months with this TV I have list of issues which I already live with but I hope some new firmware might solve:
1. Motion blur (When I play FIFA and the ball is kicked in a distance I see this blur from the players over the pitch)
2. Motion (Partially solved by smoothness - 2, clearness - 1 and cinemotion - auto)
3. Blooming (very noticeable once you are not right in front of the TV, no fix for this...I got tired to make tests and I try to carry on with it)
4. One last weird thing...when I watchhuman faces for example it is like something is glowing behind them...like there is a projector or something. I can not describe it. Have you ever noticed? I believe this is it:
With the UHD/HDR version, as the camera is cutting from family member to family member you’ll notice the backlight obviously increasing/decreasing where lamps are placed behind the actors.
Is local dimming suppose to fix it?
 
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