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guys ill admit im not the sharpest tool in the shed but how in god's name am i supposed to attach this aftermarket stand with an M6x12 (as mentioned in the TCL manual)?!?!

the top of the stand sits flush after screwing in the VESA adapater so the M6x12 seems to sit fine. obviously not true of the bottom.

and neither the stand nor the tv came with the M6x12 so i had to run to Home Depot. ugh.

help, please?!


P.S.

for reference the stand came with m4x12, m4x30, m6x20, m6x35, m8x20 and m8x35.
What stand is that? And how were you able to resolve? I'm looking to pick up this TV soon, eventually want to wall mount but will need something like that in the interim (my existing stand won't work with the wide base of this tv).
 

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guys ill admit im not the sharpest tool in the shed but how in god's name am i supposed to attach this aftermarket stand with an M6x12 (as mentioned in the TCL manual)?!?!

the top of the stand sits flush after screwing in the VESA adapater so the M6x12 seems to sit fine. obviously not true of the bottom.

and neither the stand nor the tv came with the M6x12 so i had to run to Home Depot. ugh.

help, please?!


P.S.

for reference the stand came with m4x12, m4x30, m6x20, m6x35, m8x20 and m8x35.
Might have to use the spacers and washers to make it even.
What stand is that? And how were you able to resolve? I'm looking to pick up this TV soon, eventually want to wall mount but will need something like that in the interim (my existing stand won't work with the wide base of this tv).
As @mattbooty noted it would be helpful to know the brand/model of the stand. My after market stand needed spacers which I THINK came with the TCL but I don't recall for certain. I also had to position my stand mount above the "bump" but I can't tell from your picture if that is possible with your stand.
 

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As @mattbooty noted it would be helpful to know the brand/model of the stand. My after market stand needed spacers which I THINK came with the TCL but I don't recall for certain. I also had to position my stand mount above the "bump" but I can't tell from your picture if that is possible with your stand.
Do you recall which stand you purchased? It sounds like yours worked well with this TV.
 

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I received the update to 6453 (well I had to run the update myself). I had received 6452 a few days ago. My local dimming was not fixed. Still only 2 modes on and off. I’ve read today here and on other sites that this was back to normal with the 6453 build. Not for me. I’ve seen that some get updated with 6453-88. Anyone else having this problem? Is it time for me to call TCL? I’ve not seen a dash number like -88 on any of my updates so is this for something other than this TV like a Roku stick?
Do you mean you have only "on" or "off" -- or does the TV have all the modes ("off", "low", "medium", "high") but they seem indistinguishable from one another? If the latter, well, I don't think there is a lot of difference between the 4 gradations; it really only becomes a material difference when you go from "off" to "high". If the former, then it seems the issue is not fixed for you.
 

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I found the -88 in another location on my tv so I do have 6453-88. I started watching jack ryan in HDR and I will say that on local contrast high I can see a tiny change but med and low are still the same. Tiny and I mean very slight brightening only noticeable in one corner of the screen. Nothing like before.
Are you saying that when you have local contrast set to "high" you notice that it is doing something, but at some point in the past, it was doing more than it is doing now?
 

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Are you saying that when you have local contrast set to "high" you notice that it is doing something, but at some point in the past, it was doing more than it is doing now?
Checked it all again. I checked Dolby vision, HDR via streaming YouTube Netflix and prime and checked direct tv via hdmi. My conclusion at this point is that this works as it did before only in Dolby vision. When it’s in other formats it’s on and off. And in reply to your other question I’m saying on for “low” “medium” and “high” and off for off. I could not tell a discernible difference in low med or high. I had mentioned that I was watching jack Ryan and i had seen a slight difference in the high setting while in HDR. Tried to do that again and for whatever reason jack ryan now plays in Dolby. I viewed a YouTube HDR video and low med and high are the same. In DV only, there is with no doubt a difference in low med high and off. 2 weeks ago all inputs and all content was this way.
 

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Checked it all again. I checked Dolby vision, HDR via streaming YouTube Netflix and prime and checked direct tv via hdmi. My conclusion at this point is that this works as it did before only in Dolby vision. When it’s in other formats it’s on and off. And in reply to your other question I’m saying on for “low” “medium” and “high” and off for off. I could not tell a discernible difference in low med or high. I had mentioned that I was watching jack Ryan and i had seen a slight difference in the high setting while in HDR. Tried to do that again and for whatever reason jack ryan now plays in Dolby. I viewed a YouTube HDR video and low med and high are the same. In DV only, there is with no doubt a difference in low med high and off. 2 weeks ago all inputs and all content was this way.
Interesting. I'll try to do some testing tonight. I'd like to see if/how it impacts stuff like SDR Blu Ray 1080p rips playing through Plex. I wonder if it does or doesn't. What I can say is, I am still finding the black levels to be pretty ink/pitch black, regardless of whether this feature is working as one would hope it would based on how it is listed in the settings...if that makes sense.
 

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What stand is that? And how were you able to resolve? I'm looking to pick up this TV soon, eventually want to wall mount but will need something like that in the interim (my existing stand won't work with the wide base of this tv).
As @mattbooty noted it would be helpful to know the brand/model of the stand. My after market stand needed spacers which I THINK came with the TCL but I don't recall for certain. I also had to position my stand mount above the "bump" but I can't tell from your picture if that is possible with your stand.
hey guys, this was the stand: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HE1IVNA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i used the M6x35 + spacers for the bottom bolt. for the top bolt i had to run to Home Depot to grab some M6x12.

seems to be working fine (fingers crossed).

think we'll ultimately grab a cheap, wider TV stand from IKEA this weekend and just use the OEM stands once we do.
 

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Do you recall which stand you purchased? It sounds like yours worked well with this TV.
My TV is the 55" 2018 6 Series, stand is AVF B602BB...the Tilt and Swivel version (available on Amazon). It was a little tricky to assemble but it does the job very nicely. With the 55" version of the TCL it leaves about 8" clearance. I managed to attach the TV to it alone but I was impatient and had the advantage of a tall/wide sofa to support the TV while dong so. I recommend the help of a 2nd person for that part.
 

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as an aside, what kinds of tests can i/should i do to make sure i got a decent panel? bit of a noob here.

thanks!
Load some Youtube "dirty screen effect" videos. They will show an all white or all gray screen so you can see if your screen has any areas where the backlighting and panel come together to create darker/shadowed areas. What you want to see is if the screen is "uniform" across the panel. With this TV (and many others in this price range) you probably cannot get a 100% uniform clean panel. They always have some degree of this "dirty screen effect". How much of it you can live with is up to you.

If you feel like the screen is OK based on those tests, then load some actual content -- I would try live or recorded sports, particularly soccer, football, and hockey. These will do two things for you. They will let you know if the "dirty screen effect" is really visible on real content (I don't know about you, but blank white screens are not my normal viewing habits). These will also let you see how the tv handles motion -- both in terms of fast-moving objects like players and the ball/puck, as well as panning, when the camera moves left and right across the field/rink.

If you've passed the torture tests of sports and dirty screen videos, then try to find some fast-action movies and slow panning shots in real content. Any action movie works, the newer, generally, the better, to test the limits of what the TV can reproduce. In terms of panning shots -- youtube search for 4k or 8k drone footage.

Good luck, and have fun!
 

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as an aside, what kinds of tests can i/should i do to make sure i got a decent panel? bit of a noob here. ...
There are two schools of thought: a) use the most rigorous images to ferret out the tiniest imperfection, or b) set up the TV to give the best image quality and ignore imperfections that are only visible when following path (a).

For example, a lot of defects can be found using full screen images with only one color. Grey levels from black (17,17,17) to white (235,235,235) as well as colors from white to saturated (50% Red is 128,0,0). You will almost never see a fully-uniform color image in normal programming. That means that defects you see in those images may never be visible to users.

The danger to new folks is that once you can see a defect, it becomes hard to ignore.

Conversely, there are reasonable tests for easily-seen and so likely-objectionable defects. I'll leave it to others to list them, but I would include a mid-tone grey full-screen image, along with some idea of "good" and "bad" expectations. Perfection only comes when cost is no object.

So I'll emphasize that I expect the display will be set up well (contrast/brightness/color/tint as well as gamma/color temperature), with most features turned "off" to start, so you see the effect of each. Many features will provide benefits in one aspect of quality at a price to other aspects. The panel is not defective if the "defects" have on/off switches!

HAve fun,
Frank
 

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TCL Support Experience

To those of you who have had to engage TCL USA support, what is the most effective way to go about it?

Right now my 2018 55R617 is dead. It had been perfect since I bought it (Amazon) in February but last night while watching Amazon Prime there was a flash in the back, an electrical POP, the faint smell of a short circuit and it all went black.

I called the TCL Customer Support number from my Amazon order last night and was supposed to have received a call back by now if they really do go by "preferred call back time." Maybe I'm just impatient...they quoted 24 hour turn around and that won't be until later tonight. I don't want to be that annoying customer leaving multiple messages and emails and Tweets but I also don't want this to drag out any longer than necessary.

This was my first new TV in 10+ years and its the only one in the house. I just want everything to be working again.
11/1 Update: I have a working TV again!

I know my box is the 2018 version but this is more of a TCL Support story and not model/model year specific. I've cross posted in the 2018 6 Series "First Looks" thread.

In my follow up service call (troubleshooting) they told me it would take 3 days for the part to be delivered to the technician so I expected my call back on Friday 10/25. I had trouble connecting with the repair rep to schedule the appointment but that was mostly a problem on my side. I finally caught up with him on Monday (10/29) and set the appointment for today (Friday 11/1). He ran late in arriving but was in and out in about 30 minutes. I'm sure it sped things up considerably that I was able to pinpoint where the "flash" originated so he was able to confirm the issue with the first system board he looked at (the power board).

I'm itching to sit down and test it out but have outside commitments tonight so Jack Ryan is just going to have to wait.

For initial response I give TCL an A, follow up an A and the Technician I give a B+...overall it was good customer service/customer support experience.
 
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Hi.... I bought a TCL 55R625 Roku TV on Sunday October 20th and it has restarted itself twice since unpacking it. Upon initial startup it updated the software when it connected to my wifi.



First time was while I was switching around the settings and making adjustments while it was showing my DirecTV HDMI feed. Second time was last night. I had just turned it on and was still in the Roku homescreen for about 2-3 minutes when it restarted itself.



My feeling is that if any electronic that's brand new has had to reboot itself twice in less than 2 weeks, it's not a good sign of things to come. So before I return it to Best Buy this weekend, I was wondering if anyone else has this situation and if you were able to resolve it? Also, is there a way to make it funciton like a regular tv where it goes directly to the HDMI1 feed (DirecTV) when turned on instead of booting up into the Roku homescreen?



Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks all!


John
 

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Hi.... I bought a TCL 55R625 Roku TV on Sunday October 20th and it has restarted itself twice since unpacking it. Upon initial startup it updated the software when it connected to my wifi.



First time was while I was switching around the settings and making adjustments while it was showing my DirecTV HDMI feed. Second time was last night. I had just turned it on and was still in the Roku homescreen for about 2-3 minutes when it restarted itself.



My feeling is that if any electronic that's brand new has had to reboot itself twice in less than 2 weeks, it's not a good sign of things to come. So before I return it to Best Buy this weekend, I was wondering if anyone else has this situation and if you were able to resolve it? Also, is there a way to make it funciton like a regular tv where it goes directly to the HDMI1 feed (DirecTV) when turned on instead of booting up into the Roku homescreen?



Any feedback would be helpful. Thanks all!


John
In the system menu go to power, then power on, then choose which input you want at start up. I own 5 TCL TVs all of them reboot on their own from time to time. I have never been able to figure out why. It always seems that the remote locks up first and then it's followed by a reboot. This has been going on since early 2017.
 

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In the system menu go to power, then power on, then choose which input you want at start up. I own 5 TCL TVs all of them reboot on their own from time to time. I have never been able to figure out why. It always seems that the remote locks up first and then it's followed by a reboot. This has been going on since early 2017.

Wow, that was a fast response. Thanks! I'll do it as soon as I get home.
 

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guys ill admit im not the sharpest tool in the shed but how in god's name am i supposed to attach this aftermarket stand with an M6x12 (as mentioned in the TCL manual)?!?!



the top of the stand sits flush after screwing in the VESA adapater so the M6x12 seems to sit fine. obviously not true of the bottom.

and neither the stand nor the tv came with the M6x12 so i had to run to Home Depot. ugh.

help, please?!


P.S.

for reference the stand came with m4x12, m4x30, m6x20, m6x35, m8x20 and m8x35.
Not being a dick but come on, use common sense. I had the same issue and used the spacers that came with the TV.
 

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Just wanted to throw my 2 cents in.

I got the 625 a few days ago at BB. I am coming from a 3-yr old Vizio E series (not 4k). I love it, amazing picture (Blue Planet looks absolutely ridiculous... very dark blacks and amazing brights). The real test came from my wife. After I got the thing set up, the first she saw some of the UHD stuff on Netflix she couldn't stop saying how good the pictured looked. I couldn't be happier with the purchase.

I did have a couple of questions:

-Why does YoutubeTV only show in 720p. Am I doing something wrong?

-How do you reduce the amount of fuzziness seen in some of the darker areas of the picture? When Walter White is in the basement of Jessi's house in Season 1, there are fuzzy's everywhere.
 

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It's hard for me to imagine how TCL would approve a design that (apparently) is so problematic for third-party stands. Then again it's hard for me to imagine how TCL would approve the extreme-wide-stance legs that the TV comes with in the first place. I wish every company would use a "central" stand like LG uses on their higher-end LCDs and OLEDs.
 
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