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I've posted this before, but again: Color gamut on PC input => Game Mode is locked to Auto, which, as has been pointed out, is the correct setting.
 

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I don't get it. Accurate colors are now dull and lifeless?


I'll take that all day in PC mode compared to turning peoples skin into oranges with a wide color gamut.



I personally can't tolerate WCG for PC use. If it doesn't have a sRGB mode or something close enough, I'm out.
 

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I don't get it. Accurate colors are now dull and lifeless?


I'll take that all day in PC mode compared to turning peoples skin into oranges with a wide color gamut.



I personally can't tolerate WCG for PC use. If it doesn't have a sRGB mode or something close enough, I'm out.
To each their own. You know, some people use Reshade and the like to achieve some of that POP!, so if you can get that universally through TV processing, it saves a lot of work :p
 

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I am unable to completely hide my task bar consistently. There is a single line of white pixels that shows at the bottom of the screen when it hides (top and sides as well) in Windows 10 w/ RTX2080ti (446.14 driver).


I am able to make it disappear sometimes times altering resolutions, but then this morning when I turned on my TV its back again. Its maddening and its keeping me from reliably being able to have a completely black background.


What can I do to rectify this permanently, I searched this thread but found nothing.


Thanks all.
 

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I am unable to completely hide my task bar consistently. There is a single line of white pixels that shows at the bottom of the screen when it hides (top and sides as well) in Windows 10 w/ RTX2080ti (446.14 driver).


I am able to make it disappear sometimes times altering resolutions, but then this morning when I turned on my TV its back again. Its maddening and its keeping me from reliably being able to have a completely black background.


What can I do to rectify this permanently, I searched this thread but found nothing.


Thanks all.
I've noticed this too. One thing that helped was to right-click on the Taskbar and under Cortana, select 'Hide'. I also found that using the PC input icon helped with limiting some of the overscan I was getting previously on the desktop.
 

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I've noticed this too. One thing that helped was to right-click on the Taskbar and under Cortana, select 'Hide'. I also found that using the PC input icon helped with limiting some of the overscan I was getting previously on the desktop.

Its set as PC on my input. It hides, it just doesn't hide completely, or at least not consistently.
I just managed to get it to completely hide again this morning after coming back by switching resolution several times again, but for how long? Its gotta be a bug in how its reporting or something.
 

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Technically anything other than "Auto" is wrong - it chooses between BT.709 / BT.2020 for SDR / HDR.
"Extended" evenly oversaturates BT.709 in SDR, but it's still based on the correct BT.709 colour space for SDR.
"Wide" is completely uncalibrated and exposes the native gamut of the panel - it should not be used outside of a fully colour managed workflow. Without calibration, colours will shift towards different colours altogether and not just become oversaturated.

"Extended" is what you want for more saturated colours in SDR, and you can tweak the colour settings from there. The CX allows full calibration in Game mode.
Someone else can confirm whether "Wide" is available, but you should be able to achieve the same effect by tweaking the colour settings in "Auto" or "Extended".
Thanks for the great explanation, I was looking for this. What about HDR? I know that auto is correct, but in HDR, is "extended" still bt2020, but a little more saturated? I only change the color space for games, I like a little more saturation of color, even if its not correct.
 

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I am unable to completely hide my task bar consistently. There is a single line of white pixels that shows at the bottom of the screen when it hides (top and sides as well) in Windows 10 w/ RTX2080ti (446.14 driver).


I am able to make it disappear sometimes times altering resolutions, but then this morning when I turned on my TV its back again. Its maddening and its keeping me from reliably being able to have a completely black background.


What can I do to rectify this permanently, I searched this thread but found nothing.


Thanks all.



I use translucent taskbar which makes the whole taskbar invisible other than the icons.

I also use TaskBarHider, which allows me to set a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. (I use ctrl+shift+Z personally since it seems like a corner pocket hotkey that corresponds to the low taskbar postion, at least the way my brain works).



That is for my windows taskbar on my primary monitor. For my side monitors I use displayfusion pro's taskbars.





Translucent Taskbar app (TranslucentTB) and set my taskbar to hide, being 100% see-through it doesn't leave the taskbar sliver anymore. As long as the icons are hidden there is nothing static in the taskbar area at all.

TransluscentTB - Microsoft store


You can also install Taskbar Hider to always hide the taskbar and show/hide toggle it with a custom hotkey.

http://www.itsamples.com/taskbar-hider.html

A few things I found out with taskbar hider after experimenting with it:

-You have to close and restart the app in the system tray if you change the hotkey for the new hotkey to work
-If you have windows set to hide the taskbar automatically ("hide taskbar in desktop mode"), the taskbar hider app only works as a "lock" on the taskbar state. E.g. hiding the taskbar even on mouseovers until you hit the hotkey to unlock it again.
-If you have windows "hide taskbar in desktop mode" turned off, the taskbar hider app's hotkey acts as a toggle, showing or hiding the taskbar. It stays locked in either position until the hotkey is hit again.
-unlike when your taskbar is hidden normally, hitting the windows key to bring up the windows menu does not "wake up" and show the taskbar anymore. Thats a good thing to me.
-you can still just alt+tab / shift +alt+tab(reverse), ctrl-alt-tab (leaves open apps selection window open even after keys are released), and win+tab opens tiles of all open apps on all monitors to choose from, so unless you are launching an app from the taskbar or using right click on it's icon you could just keep the taskbar hidden more often.
-there is about a 1 to 2 second delay on bringing the taskbar up but I haven't found that bothersome. It hides pretty instantaneously.
-It can show/hide the windows taskbar on all monitors in the array if you run it in admin mode
- It obviously doesn't work with the displayfusion pro taskbars on other monitors but displayfusion has it's own hotkeys and functions if you need that.

I set my taskbar hider app's hotkey to ctrl + shift + Z since I'm unlikely to use mod keys with z in a game much, and Z is on the bottom of the keyboard sort of so it seems to fit there. I could set it to a streamdeck key but that wouldn't be as quick.
 

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I use translucent taskbar which makes the whole taskbar invisible other than the icons.

I also use TaskBarHider, which allows me to set a hotkey to show/hide the taskbar rather than using mouseovers. (I use ctrl+shift+Z personally since it seems like a corner pocket hotkey that corresponds to the low taskbar postion, at least the way my brain works).



That is for my windows taskbar on my primary monitor. For my side monitors I use displayfusion pro's taskbars.

TB works so long as I remove the search box. There's still a short white line the search box it if I leave it there when hidden. That's good enough for me though, I can live without it!


thx
 

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TB works so long as I remove the search box. There's still a short white line the search box it if I leave it there when hidden. That's good enough for me though, I can live without it!


thx

No problem :)

I forgot that I removed the search box for that white line reason way before I later found out about Translucent Taskbar. You can still click on the magnifying glass to bring up the whole search panel and then search even when the search field/box is not shown on the taskbar. That's not even 1 extra mouse click since the cursor is active and waiting for your to type in the search field as soon as you click the magnifying glass to bring up the search panel. It might even be easier to hit WinKey + Q to bring up the search panel. When you hit Win + Q you can have both hands on the keyboard already ready for typing rather than one having to be on the mouse in order to click the search field in the first place. So either way you don't really need the search box to stay resident on the taskbar. It also wastes space that can be used for icons.



I still recommend trying out taskbarhider too. I use ctrl+shift+Z to show or hide the taskbar instead of using mouseovers. When you hit the windows key it doesn't show the taskbar anymore either which is good imo. You have complete control over when the taskbar is shown and so it can be locked away. I've had times when the default show/hide taskbar functionality of windows would be buggy and not hide in the past. It's also handy to use the whole screen height for different windows.
 

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I can tell ya that games that aren’t created around HGIG will appear dimmer, but if HGIG is built within the game, you will see a much more vibrant picture with correct pq. There’s not many games that currently support it at this time.
How do we know if a game supports HGIG or not?

I am playing The Witcher 3 on a XBox One X on my CX 77". Image is an amazing upgrade over my Sony XBR-65X900A (circa 2013!).

I have noticed that switching from Dynamic Tone Mapping ON to HGIG ON significantly reduces the brightness. Not that it is bad or wrong, but definitely less bright. Just trying to understand which is the more accurate setting. It is really too bad that there is not some bit that can signal to the console or TV that HGIG should be used. Or even a logo when booting the game...

If HGIG is only supposed to be used when the game "supports" it, it would be nice to have a game compatibility list. Then again, HGIG seems to be more of a set of guidelines for a game developer to follow, as opposed to an actual format like HDR10 or Dolby Vision. Which makes me understand even less why there would be an HGIG setting...
 

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I've posted this before, but again: Color gamut on PC input => Game Mode is locked to Auto, which, as has been pointed out, is the correct setting.
Even if its the correct setting the fact its completely washing out the gamut to a VERY dull look vs normal tv look is the issue that's being discussed here that many have run into. It's one thing for it to Auto (with it actually enabling wide ) but the problem is that the Auto is selecting the WRONG gamut type, so its not "to each their own" that's a bit messed up , kinda the equivalent to telling someone that has a bug to just accept it as is vs try to do something about it.

And no , reshade won't make it pop, it literally takes "Natural" saturation and HALVES it for Gaming, its VERY dull. This CLEARLY is a bug in the firmware.


So if you want to play in PC input/game mode you are locked to a pale color gamut? Are there any other low input lag modes to get around this with full color? Does his affect HDR games too?


Very interested in these answers. It seems like people in various threads are so excited about the availability of these oleds that these concerns are getting swept under the carpet.
Haven't tested HDR but despite selecting limited or Full it definitely defaults to the WRONG "auto" selected which is clearly a bug in the firmware, and hopefully something they fix, and agreed, like the person quoted above you people often seem to just get angry at others claiming they should just "accept it or gtfo" which doesn't help anyone.
 

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Yes one of the eARC configurations is passing the hdmi audio through the TV and then back out of the eARC hdmi port to the surround system. This allows you to use all of the hdmi ports on the TV for switching devices instead of going through your receiver. Passing video and audio through a receiver first can also add lag (even ruining lip-sync) and otherwise change a pure signal so eARC out from the TV is really the best way to do it imo.


https://www.crutchfield.com/S-54nx2IhTbaH/learn/what-you-need-to-know-about-hdmi-arc-and-earc.html


That means you can use a receiver that has hdmi 2.1 features for receiving a eARC audio passthrough IN even though the receiver doesn't have the bandwidth or capability to accept 4k 120hz 444, HDR video signals and pass them OUT. (So you could probably save some money vs. buying a 4k 120hz video pass-through receiver).


I'd definitely make sure that any DENON models are fully working by checking reviews of people that own one and are using off of a modern C9, E9, CX, LG OLED before I'd buy one though since DENON had issues with LG OLEDs.
Just a heads-up that the CX does not support DTS, and also will not pass-through DTS over eARC. Bummer, but a feature downgrade vs the C9.
 

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I've posted this before, but again: Color gamut on PC input => Game Mode is locked to Auto, which, as has been pointed out, is the correct setting.
Even if its the correct setting the fact its completely washing out the gamut to a VERY dull look vs normal tv look is the issue that's being discussed here that many have run into. It's one thing for it to Auto (with it actually enabling wide ) but the problem is that the Auto is selecting the WRONG gamut type, so its not "to each their own" that's a bit messed up , kinda the equivalent to telling someone that has a bug to just accept it as is vs try to do something about it.

And no , reshade won't make it pop, it literally takes "Natural" saturation and HALVES it for Gaming, its VERY dull. This CLEARLY is a bug in the firmware.


So if you want to play in PC input/game mode you are locked to a pale color gamut? Are there any other low input lag modes to get around this with full color? Does his affect HDR games too?


Very interested in these answers. It seems like people in various threads are so excited about the availability of these oleds that these concerns are getting swept under the carpet.
Haven't tested HDR but despite selecting limited or Full it definitely defaults to the WRONG "auto" selected which is clearly a bug in the firmware, and hopefully something they fix, and agreed, like the person quoted above you people often seem to just get angry at others claiming they should just "accept it or gtfo" which doesn't help anyone.
EXACTLY. The C9 color gamut in PC INPUT / GAME picture mode was locked to “Extended”. But there was something far worse about it, like it actually under saturated and put color volume into a negative versus sRGB.

It looked absolutely TERRIBLE compared to every other picture mode. The question is: is the CX also doing this... is the color gamut being locked to AUTO on the CX for PC use selecting “Extended” or “Wide”? I have no idea why LG would go out of their way to keep locking this damn setting which is incredibly annoying, unless it affects input lag for some reason. Which if so, is completely ridiculous.
 

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I've posted this before, but again: Color gamut on PC input => Game Mode is locked to Auto, which, as has been pointed out, is the correct setting.
Even if its the correct setting the fact its completely washing out the gamut to a VERY dull look vs normal tv look is the issue that's being discussed here that many have run into. It's one thing for it to Auto (with it actually enabling wide ) but the problem is that the Auto is selecting the WRONG gamut type, so its not "to each their own" that's a bit messed up , kinda the equivalent to telling someone that has a bug to just accept it as is vs try to do something about it.

And no , reshade won't make it pop, it literally takes "Natural" saturation and HALVES it for Gaming, its VERY dull. This CLEARLY is a bug in the firmware.


So if you want to play in PC input/game mode you are locked to a pale color gamut? Are there any other low input lag modes to get around this with full color? Does his affect HDR games too?


Very interested in these answers. It seems like people in various threads are so excited about the availability of these oleds that these concerns are getting swept under the carpet.
Haven't tested HDR but despite selecting limited or Full it definitely defaults to the WRONG "auto" selected which is clearly a bug in the firmware, and hopefully something they fix, and agreed, like the person quoted above you people often seem to just get angry at others claiming they should just "accept it or gtfo" which doesn't help anyone.
EXACTLY. The C9 color gamut in PC INPUT / GAME picture mode was locked to “Extended”. But there was something far worse about it, like it actually under saturated and put color volume into a negative versus sRGB.

It looked absolutely TERRIBLE compared to every other picture mode. The question is: is the CX also doing this... is the color gamut being locked to AUTO on the CX for PC use selecting “Extended” or “Wide”? I have no idea why LG would go out of their way to keep locking this damn setting which is incredibly annoying, unless it affects input lag for some reason. Which if so, is completely ridiculous.
Are people forced to use PC mode? It bypasses the video pipeline and results in a worse picture than just simply using Game mode.

Is the CX/C9 reading the EDID and forcing PC?
 

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I can tell ya that games that aren’️t created around HGIG will appear dimmer, but if HGIG is built within the game, you will see a much more vibrant picture with correct pq. There’️s not many games that currently support it at this time.
How do we know if a game supports HGIG or not?

I am playing The Witcher 3 on a XBox One X on my CX 77". Image is an amazing upgrade over my Sony XBR-65X900A (circa 2013!).

I have noticed that switching from Dynamic Tone Mapping ON to HGIG ON significantly reduces the brightness. Not that it is bad or wrong, but definitely less bright. Just trying to understand which is the more accurate setting. It is really too bad that there is not some bit that can signal to the console or TV that HGIG should be used. Or even a logo when booting the game...

If HGIG is only supposed to be used when the game "supports" it, it would be nice to have a game compatibility list. Then again, HGIG seems to be more of a set of guidelines for a game developer to follow, as opposed to an actual format like HDR10 or Dolby Vision. Which makes me understand even less why there would be an HGIG setting...
Dynamic Tone Mapping is artificial. I use HGIG for every game.

Switch between DTM off and HGiG. You will notice specular highlights are brighter, and color saturation is increased at the top end.

Dynamic Tone Mapping is like turning on Vivid mode. It's inaccurate.
 
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Anyone knows how to adjust HDR settings for the PS4 pro where you adjust the logo visibility? I'm confused on how to adjust it, I'm using CX55.
 

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Are people forced to use PC mode? It bypasses the video pipeline and results in a worse picture than just simply using Game mode.

Is the CX/C9 reading the EDID and forcing PC?
No, and you're not even forced to use the Game picture mode of PC mode either. In PC mode (SDR) you can use ISF expert picture modes and choose the color gamut you prefer. The input lag is virtually the same, at least for me it's very hard to notice a difference on my C9. Only in HDR on PC mode you're forced to color gamut "Auto", but that's pretty accurate.
 

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Are people forced to use PC mode? It bypasses the video pipeline and results in a worse picture than just simply using Game mode.

Is the CX/C9 reading the EDID and forcing PC?
Yes, PC input is the only way you get true 4:4:4 chroma mapping on PC.

No, and you're not even forced to use the Game picture mode of PC mode either. In PC mode (SDR) you can use ISF expert picture modes and choose the color gamut you prefer. The input lag is virtually the same, at least for me it's very hard to notice a difference on my C9. Only in HDR on PC mode you're forced to color gamut "Auto", but that's pretty accurate.
Virtually is not the same... I tested higher input lag with my high speed camera on the C9 with every other picture preset outside of Game mode. I don't want to sacrifice the stellar low input lag just to get non-washed out colors.

And for those of us that want to use BFI, Game Mode is required.
 

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PC input is the only way you get true 4:4:4 chroma mapping on PC.
If I dont care about 4:4:4 and PC Mode, are gamut / color ok in Game Mode OUTSIDE of PC Mode? Can it be chosen freely? It was locked to wide in SDR on the C6. Very annoying.

I don't really see a difference between 4:4:4 and 4:2:2 from my viewing distance in games. In text, yes, but I dont plan on using my TV as a giant eBook reader.
 
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