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overall the picture quality for the switch and ps4 pro in game mode is a bit disappointing to me. I was expecting it to look a bit more vibrant and bright like it does with hdr content in standard mode when watching videos.
 

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r anyone who's interested, I've created a new portable version of my Windows app (ColorControl), which is available here: Maassoft
It's best to uninstall the previous version and just unzip this new version where you like it. I've also incorporated some .NET code to communicate with LG TV's now, so the LgController.exe is no longer necessary. This way, the install size is only
Hi mate thanks for the app, what's the best format to select for the c9 with a 2080ti?

12bit RGB Full with HDR, or YUV444 Limited with HDR?

Also see the nvidia cpanel when i select YUV444 - see below. See the Output Color Format in nvcpanel is blank
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Switch Screen Shift off. It zooms the image in addition to panning, destroying 1:1 pixel mapping and making everything blurry.
I set Logo Luminance Adjustment to High but did not see any difference.
Is this true I heard it doesn't, also why would you turn off a setting designed to protect against burn in, especially for gaming that has lots of static images?
 

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Is this true I heard it doesn't, also why would you turn off a setting designed to protect against burn in, especially for gaming that has lots of static images?
Because it has issues. At 4K 120 Hz screen shift will blur the image. At 4K 60 Hz it's fine. It's a bug in the firmware.
 

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Because it has issues. At 4K 120 Hz screen shift will blur the image. At 4K 60 Hz it's fine. It's a bug in the firmware.
Cheers, doesn't effect me then on console currently, I presume next gen it might unless they fix the issue?
 

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Can you make it possible to send number presses? I would like to make a shortcut for the HDMI diagnostics and HDMI override menus. Looking at other projects using the LG API they mention that 0-9 should be valid if they are sent as strings. When I try to use the numbers though it just seems to exit the menu.

Also the DPI scaling on the app seems to be broken unless I set compatibility settings to "scaling performed by Application".
Yes, I will add more buttons in a new version. I haven't noticed anything with the scaling myself, probably because I'm always running at 100% scaling.

Hi mate thanks for the app, what's the best format to select for the c9 with a 2080ti?

12bit RGB Full with HDR, or YUV444 Limited with HDR?

Also see the nvidia cpanel when i select YUV444 - see below. See the Output Color Format in nvcpanel is blank
With my C9 and 1080ti YUV444 is a bit better with less banding, but it's better if you check it yourself. I can only run HDR with 8-bit and dithering, not 10 or 12-bit at 120Hz. It could be different with higher bit depths. For a simple grayscale gradient I always look at this site: Gradient (banding) - Lagom LCD test Just leave HDR active in Windows and look at the banding in de gradient.
There are several bugs with the NVIDIA control panel at this time (I saw you came across some of them earlier), one of them not showing all possible color formats. So if the missing format is the one that's active at the time, it results in an empty selection of the dropdown. But if you check the TV HDMI diagnostics screen, you will see that the format is indeed YCbCr instead of RGB.
 

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Yes, I will add more buttons in a new version. I haven't noticed anything with the scaling myself, probably because I'm always running at 100% scaling.
Sweet! I will test it as soon as you have a new version out. I still urge you to put it on Github as open source so others can contribute and it's easier to track releases. Thanks for making the software, I think it will turn out to be very useful.

I run at 125% scaling because it is a more comfortable text size for me. The app is definitely blurry if I do that. It might be just some build flag that needs to be set to make it scale correctly depending on what you use there.
 

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Yes, I will add more buttons in a new version. I haven't noticed anything with the scaling myself, probably because I'm always running at 100% scaling.


With my C9 and 1080ti YUV444 is a bit better with less banding, but it's better if you check it yourself. I can only run HDR with 8-bit and dithering, not 10 or 12-bit at 120Hz. It could be different with higher bit depths. For a simple grayscale gradient I always look at this site: Gradient (banding) - Lagom LCD test Just leave HDR active in Windows and look at the banding in de gradient.
There are several bugs with the NVIDIA control panel at this time (I saw you came across some of them earlier), one of them not showing all possible color formats. So if the missing format is the one that's active at the time, it results in an empty selection of the dropdown. But if you check the TV HDMI diagnostics screen, you will see that the format is indeed YCbCr instead of RGB.
Duuuuude!! YCbCr 4:4:4 with dithering and HDR looks amazing on netflix, no more black crush, and dithering looks good too :D

My phone doesn't do it justice.

IMG_20200803_225419.jpg
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HDR should be switched on permanently in Windows. There is no reason whatsoever to switch it off.
Windows thinks the CX has a 100% SDR brightness of 1499 nits, so I set HDR/SDR brightness balance to 10% for ~150 nits. This is close to an OLED Light of 35 in SDR mode.


Switch Screen Shift off. It zooms the image in addition to panning, destroying 1:1 pixel mapping and making everything blurry.
I set Logo Luminance Adjustment to High but did not see any difference.


I set OLED Light to 35 / 100 for ~150 nits in SDR.
Sharpness should be 0 / 0.
Color should be 50 / 50.
Dynamic Tone Mapping should be HGIG or Off (with Mastering Peak set to 1000 in the HDMI Signalling Override menu - you need to override this because there is no HDR metadata from the PC). DTM set to On is inaccurate, and there is no situation where this is the correct setting when you have access to the HDMI Signalling Override menu. If the image is too dim, AI Brightness is a better option.
Color Temperature should be Warm 2.
I appreciate the response:
#1: I set Windows 10 SDR brightness to 10% and set the CX to HGIG mode, Mastering Peak to 1000 in HDMI Signalling Override menu, and AI Brightness On but image appears very dim.
#2: Do you prefer Warm 2 for color accuracy? To me, Medium/Cool provide a subjectively better picture for general PC use.
#3 Does running PC in HDR mode increase risk for temporary image retention? I experienced this previously when I was running PC in HDR (but had SDR brightness maxed as well).
 

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Is anybody considering the Denon S960H to pair with this TV ? It's HDMI 2.1 VRR enabled etc...
 

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Got my lossless audio to pass perfectly using the DP to HDMI cable that was suggested here. Whilst also maintaining 120hz + Gsync and instant response.

Now I can finally use just one input to both play my games and movies. Thanks to those who helped! Still wish eArc passed DTS but this will do for now.
Im planning to buy LG CX and connect my PC ( I7&GTX1080 ) to it to play games and movies (kodi,downloaded) and streaming apps . I'm also planning to buy the denon avrx6500h which supports HDMI 2.0 and EARC . Is it safe to assume that i can connect my PC to the the LG CX directly with a 25 ft HDMI and connect my pc to the x6500h with another 25ft HDMI (from GPU or motherboard ) so i can benefit from the of the LG CX features (Gsync ,vrr,4k120) and also get lossless uncompressed audio from movies and games with no delay or issues?

how about consoles in the future ? lets say the games use DTS format ,if i connect the console directly to the tv for the benefits of HDMI 2.1 as my avr only supoport HDMI 2.0 ,would using sharc (or other products ) between the LG CX and the AVR give me DTS back ? if not ,is there a work around ?

thank you
 

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As to your first question, you should be fine. As to your second question
Im planning to buy LG CX and connect my PC ( I7&GTX1080 ) to it to play games and movies (kodi,downloaded) and streaming apps . I'm also planning to buy the denon avrx6500h which supports HDMI 2.0 and EARC . Is it safe to assume that i can connect my PC to the the LG CX directly with a 25 ft HDMI and connect my pc to the x6500h with another 25ft HDMI (from GPU or motherboard ) so i can benefit from the of the LG CX features (Gsync ,vrr,4k120) and also get lossless uncompressed audio from movies and games with no delay or issues?

how about consoles in the future ? lets say the games use DTS format ,if i connect the console directly to the tv for the benefits of HDMI 2.1 as my avr only supoport HDMI 2.0 ,would using sharc (or other products ) between the LG CX and the AVR give me DTS back ? if not ,is there a work around ?

thank you
to your first question yes it should work fine. As to your second question I am not 100% sure but I feel like games will be able to pass either DTS or Dolby or PCM but somebody else will have to confirm that.
 
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overall the picture quality for the switch and ps4 pro in game mode is a bit disappointing to me. I was expecting it to look a bit more vibrant and bright like it does with hdr content in standard mode when watching videos.
I see what you mean. Standard/Vivid look nicer to me than Game mode. However, if you select Cool/Medium temperature under Game Mode, it looks almost as good.
 

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Sweet! I will test it as soon as you have a new version out. I still urge you to put it on Github as open source so others can contribute and it's easier to track releases. Thanks for making the software, I think it will turn out to be very useful.

I run at 125% scaling because it is a more comfortable text size for me. The app is definitely blurry if I do that. It might be just some build flag that needs to be set to make it scale correctly depending on what you use there.
I've uploaded version 1.0.2.0 here: Maassoft
With this version you can add all digits of the remote (0-9) to the steps. As an example, with these steps you can open the HDMI diagnostics screen directly:
Code:
LEFT, LEFT, DOWN, DOWN, RIGHT, RIGHT, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1:800, RIGHT, ENTER
Additionally, I've tried to enable better scaling in the app, but it's not working correctly yet. Some controls (ListViews) don't seem to scale at all. At least it's not blurry anymore :p
 

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In rtings.com review they mention AMD FreeSync only works up to 4k60 but not 4k120. First of all, how did they output at 4k120 and has this been addressed by LG?
 

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I appreciate the response:
#1: I set Windows 10 SDR brightness to 10% and set the CX to HGIG mode, Mastering Peak to 1000 in HDMI Signalling Override menu, and AI Brightness On but image appears very dim.
You can set HDR / SDR brightness balance to whatever you want. 200 nits is common in a living room, but will trigger ABL on OLEDs when maximizing white windows etc. ~150 nits (10% HDR / SDR brightness balance) will avoid triggering ABL.

#2: Do you prefer Warm 2 for color accuracy? To me, Medium/Cool provide a subjectively better picture for general PC use.
HDR10 is an absolute standard. Anything other than Warm2 (D65) is wrong. While D65 is also recommended for SDR (and thus for sRGB content within BT.2020), it isn't a hard requirement like with HDR.

#3 Does running PC in HDR mode increase risk for temporary image retention? I experienced this previously when I was running PC in HDR (but had SDR brightness maxed as well).
It's the same as running SDR with high OLED Light.
 

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Just picked up my 55CX today and have been playing around with it and getting things figured out. Haven't touched the settings much, but just out of the box the picture is stunning! I also picked up a Denon S960H for the newer consoles coming out. I'm struggling with one question that I have on this set. In the attached pic, it's showing 2 HDMI inputs with one labeled PS4. Why does the set have 2 HDMI inputs? Is one for the PS4 and the other the Xbox X (that's also what I have hooked into the receiver that I have powered on). It's the only thing that makes sense to me. Did I miss setting something up wrong? I feel like I did, but now sure if it's Tv side or Receiver side.


Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

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Just picked up my 55CX today and have been playing around with it and getting things figured out. Haven't touched the settings much, but just out of the box the picture is stunning! I also picked up a Denon S960H for the newer consoles coming out. I'm struggling with one question that I have on this set. In the attached pic, it's showing 2 HDMI inputs with one labeled PS4. Why does the set have 2 HDMI inputs? Is one for the PS4 and the other the Xbox X (that's also what I have hooked into the receiver that I have powered on). It's the only thing that makes sense to me. Did I miss setting something up wrong? I feel like I did, but now sure if it's Tv side or Receiver side.
The HDMI 2 is the receiver and the HDMI 2-Playstation 4 is the PS4 attached to the receiver.

The TV can detect devices connected to the receiver via HDMI-CEC, the Xbox does not support HDMI-CEC which is why it is not listed.The HDMI 2 is whatever input is active on the receiver.
 

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I've uploaded version 1.0.2.0 here: Maassoft
With this version you can add all digits of the remote (0-9) to the steps. As an example, with these steps you can open the HDMI diagnostics screen directly:
Code:
LEFT, LEFT, DOWN, DOWN, RIGHT, RIGHT, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1:800, RIGHT, ENTER
Additionally, I've tried to enable better scaling in the app, but it's not working correctly yet. Some controls (ListViews) don't seem to scale at all. At least it's not blurry anymore :p
Awesome work!

I just tried it out and was able to enter the hidden menus. On the CX 48":

HDMI diagnostics (direct to the HDMI submenu):

Code:
DOWN:500, DOWN, DOWN, RIGHT:500, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, RIGHT:500, ENTER
HDMI override menu:

Code:
RIGHT:500, RIGHT, 1, 1, 1, 3, 1, 1, 1
Scaling also seems to work definitely better. list views look fine at least at 125% scaling apart from the columns not sizing correctly.

BTW where does this save its settings? I assume somewhere in registry? Would be nice if they could be saved to a file so you can transport it easier. Alternative a .reg export from the app would do.
 

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You can set HDR / SDR brightness balance to whatever you want. 200 nits is common in a living room, but will trigger ABL on OLEDs when maximizing white windows etc. ~150 nits (10% HDR / SDR brightness balance) will avoid triggering ABL.
I found that in HDR mode even at 8% slider setting ASBL seemed more aggressive than it is in SDR mode. Or maybe it just dims the image less. I had to disable it via service remote because it was getting too annoying for me (even in SDR where it can trigger just while typing a forum post).

I did some measurements with a Spyder 5 Pro and Displaycal when HDR mode is on and different SDR slider settings are used. LG WOLED correction was used in DisplayCal but I don't know if that matters until the actual calibration phase.

Settings used:
  • TV contrast and OLED light both at 100.
  • Picture preset Game (HDR mode version).
  • Warm 2 color preset.
  • Dynamic tone mapping HGIG (looks same as Off on desktop).
  • Otherwise default picture settings.
HDR/SDR brightness balanced slider value (percentage) - Measured nits (rounded)
  • 100 % 605 nits
  • 75 % 487 nits
  • 50 % 352 nits
  • 25 % 220 nits
  • 20 % 192 nits
  • 15 % 166 nits
  • 10 % 139 nits
  • 8 % 128 nits
  • 7 % 124 nits
  • 6 % 119 nits
  • 5 % 115 nits
  • 4 % 108 nits
  • 3 % 105 nits
  • 2 % 98 nits
  • 1 % 93 nits
  • 0 % 87 nits
EDIT: Table did not work for some reason.

Note that this is without calibrating the display. When I adjusted Green to -4 and Blue to -2 on the TV to correct color balance, I get 119.5 nits at 7% setting which is right on point for the 120 nits I am aiming for. After this small calibration 0% is equal to ~85 nits. So there will be some deviation on your individual panels and their calibration. These may vary with better calibration devices for all I know so don't take those numbers as gospel.
 
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