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Since there is no way to measure Shadow Detail in Game PM, you want to set all the user parameters the same as HDR Cinema or your equivalent SDR PM so the Shadow Detail should be the same or close enough. So that said, just recalibrate your game modes. At some point i'm sure someone will figure out how to measure Shadow Detail in Game mode so you can then you can verify.
You can play the test patterns off a usb stick plugged in an external UHD player, which is connected to the TV via HDMI. All external HDMI sources allow Game picture modes.
Similar to Saiyanzzrage's approach.
 

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When using a custom meter profile for the X-rite i1 display, profiled using the Bodner Method for OLED using a pro2, do I need to set Display Type to "OLED" or do I leave it at "Raw XYZ" in the setup for the calibration workflow?
Always use Raw XYZ when creating a meter profile, especially when using the Bodner method. You should only ever use an EDR if you do not have access to a Spectro to create a profile, and even then, the OLED EDR is not for use with WRGB OLED and should never be used on these LG OLEDs

Does it make a difference if I used the 2020 iTPG for profiling but plan on using the 2019 iTPG for DV calibration or do I need to create a new profile using the 2019 iTPG?
It doesn't matter, all you are doing is displaying 4 patches (RGBW) and measuring them with both meters to create the meter correction. These patches can come from anywhere, such as the iTPG (either one), an external TPG or even a blu-ray disk. There is nothing special about them, they are just 100% RGBW (or 94% when using LightSpace/ColourSpace to prevent clipping).

But for LG OLED there are some extra steps that prove beneficial.
  • Set OLED Light to give an output of approximately 100 nits prior to creating the meter correction for best/consistent results. WRGB OLED's are unstable at high luminance, so do not attempt to do it in HDR/DV mode.
  • Disable all internal processing/image enhancements/eco modes etc, just as you would if you were performing the calibration.
  • Ensure the panel is in its native gamut (Wide) first also. You can do this by either manually selecting wide in the user menu, or by connecting to your TV via DDC and performing a Full DDC Reset. Only do the Full DDC Reset if you plan to use AutoCAL though. If you plan to attempt either skipping the 1D LUT or doing a Manual Calibration, never press the Full DDC Reset button.
Doing the above will correct the full gamut when performing a 3D LUT or HDR/DV calibration (luminance correction will scale). Obviously it is taken for granted that correct meter setup (warm up, placement/alignment) is also done beforehand.
 

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Always use Raw XYZ when creating a meter profile, especially when using the Bodner method. You should only ever use an EDR if you do not have access to a Spectro to create a profile, and even then, the OLED EDR is not for use with WRGB OLED and should never be used on these LG OLEDs



It doesn't matter, all you are doing is displaying 4 patches (RGBW) and measuring them with both meters to create the meter correction. These patches can come from anywhere, such as the iTPG (either one), an external TPG or even a blu-ray disk. There is nothing special about them, they are just 100% RGBW (or 94% when using LightSpace/ColourSpace to prevent clipping).

But for LG OLED there are some extra steps that prove beneficial.
  • Set OLED Light to give an output of approximately 100 nits prior to creating the meter correction for best/consistent results. WRGB OLED's are unstable at high luminance, so do not attempt to do it in HDR/DV mode.
  • Disable all internal processing/image enhancements/eco modes etc, just as you would if you were performing the calibration.
  • Ensure the panel is in its native gamut (Wide) first also. You can do this by either manually selecting wide in the user menu, or by connecting to your TV via DDC and performing a Full DDC Reset. Only do the Full DDC Reset if you plan to use AutoCAL though. If you plan to attempt either skipping the 1D LUT or doing a Manual Calibration, never press the Full DDC Reset button.
Doing the above will correct the full gamut when performing a 3D LUT or HDR/DV calibration (luminance correction will scale). Obviously it is taken for granted that correct meter setup (warm up, placement/alignment) is also done beforehand.
Thanks, that's helpful.

To sum up:
I always select Raw XYZ with the i1 Display?

How long is the warm up period? Do I just use the TV for regular content during that time?

I used a meter position marker and a tripod to set up the devices and to make sure they measure the same spot for the Multi Pass measurement. Is there anything else to keep in mind when it comes to meter position/alignment?

For the record, I tried the Calman R2 Beta and Shadow Detail Control has worked wonders for my DV autocalibration. No more raised near-black greys. Thanks Tyler, @WiFi-Spy.
I was also able to use the 2019 iTPG as a source and connect as a 2020 TV to avoid black crush but make use of the Shadow Detail control at the same time. Thanks @ConnecTEDDD for the input.
 

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Something to add:

Ted has also suggested to target a whitepoint of 0,312 and 0,3356 for use with the i1 Pro. After creating a profile for my i1 Display, is it recommended to use this alternative white point?

D-Nice has yet another alternative, he uses a whitepoint target of x0.3095 y0.3290.

Or do I just go with the preset 0,3127 and 0,329?
 

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Thanks, that's helpful.

To sum up:
I always select Raw XYZ with the i1 Display?

How long is the warm up period? Do I just use the TV for regular content during that time?

I used a meter position marker and a tripod to set up the devices and to make sure they measure the same spot for the Multi Pass measurement. Is there anything else to keep in mind when it comes to meter position/alignment?.
There is a dedicated meter profiling thread that contains tips for best practices. Although it is focused on FCMM meter profiling, the same rules apply when using the Bodner method


However, very interesting recent experimentation by user @thoth has revealed that the distances that were previously recommended may not be correct for the i1d3/i1Pro meter combo.


Something to add:

Ted has also suggested to target a whitepoint of 0,312 and 0,3356 for use with the i1 Pro. After creating a profile for my i1 Display, is it recommended to use this alternative white point?

D-Nice has yet another alternative, he uses a whitepoint target of x0.3095 y0.3290.

Or do I just go with the preset 0,3127 and 0,329?
The white point Ted has recommended above is actually my white point. This was derived from an initial perceptual match to a plasma using the same/very similar methods that D-Nice uses while using a 5nm Jeti Spectro. I actually arrived at the same white point (+- xy 0.004) as D-Nice, so most users that have a 5nm Spectro or a meter profiled to one will use the coordinates provided by D-Nice.

I then measured the perceptually matched white point simultaneously with the Jeti and an i1 Pro 2 (which has since been sold to another forum member). So it it is up to you if you use it or not, bearing in mind X-Rites Inter-Instrument Agreement (meter variability).

Always shoot for D65 first. If it looks wrong to you, then try a different white point, allowing a week or more for your eyes to adjust and get used to it.
 

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The white point Ted has recommended above is actually my white point. This was derived from an initial perceptual match to a plasma using the same/very similar methods that D-Nice uses while using a 5nm Jeti Spectro. I actually arrived at the same white point (+- xy 0.004) as D-Nice, so most users that have a 5nm Spectro or a meter profiled to one will use the coordinates provided by D-Nice.
Indeed and the key take-away which I missed at first, is that you should not use those specialist 5mn-spectro white points, if your goal is to use an AWP to combat metamerism and end up with white looking like D65, unless you also are profiling your meter to a high-res (at least 5nm) Spectro yourself (or have paid someone to create you a profile with such a meter).

If you only have a 10nm spectro, or you have no spectro at all (so you're using an EDR instead, never ever use an EDR as well as a spectro correction!) - in those cases, you cannot use any 5nm-derived Alternative White Point and also expect it to give you the correct end result if your goal is to use an AWP to combat metamerism and end up with white looking like D65 to your eyes (You can do it for fun of course, but it can't achieve the accurate metamerism-corrected D65 "look" you were shooting for, you'll get something else). That's the whole reason why some very helpful users (you!) have also provided a 10nm spectro reading which was performed at the same time: different set of co-ords, reading the exact same patch at the exact same time.

Obviously every time you change a target white point, regardless of meter, it's going to change the whole calibration and the "look" of the end result. I think what might be happening with many users making this innocent mistake is that they first use D65, then they use the wrong 5nm-derived AWP (without ever realising that they shouldn't). It then looks different to before (of course) and the placebo effect takes over from there.
 

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you cannot use any 5nm-derived Alternative White Point and also expect it to be accurate. (You can do it for fun, but it won't be accurate).
What does the WP have to do with the measuring device since the white point an xy coordinate?
 

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What does the WP have to do with the measuring device since the white point an xy coordinate?
I've edited my post to clarify, thanks :)
 

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What does the WP have to do with the measuring device since the white point an xy coordinate?
A 5nm Spectro and a 10nm Spectro do not read white (the mixture of RGB) in the same way. There is actually a difference in how the two read white on the Plasma (albeit small difference), but on a wide gamut display with narrow bandwidth primaries this difference is much larger, hence why the Jeti 1501 5nm Spectro and the X-Rite i1 Pro2 10nm Spectro read the exact same patch on the exact same display differently when being measured simultaneously.

This is why I did the experiment at the time whilst I still had both meters in my possession and provided the alternate xy coordinates for i1 Pro2 users to try. All the while making the disclaimer that X-Rites Inter-Device Agreement (meter variance) was published as an Avg of 0.4 dE94 with a Max of 1.0 dE94, so they may, or may not work for all or any user at all. However, I know several users that have i1 Pro2 meters that have measured those precise coordinates (xy 0.3120/0.3356) and consequently measured with an i1d3 OEM/Retail while using the FSI created EDR, and those measurements have all come back within the same tolerance levels of i1d3 meters I myself have personally measured. So it can be concluded that the i1 Pro2 AWP coordinates are "in the ballpark"

The only way for anyone to know for sure is to perceptually match to a different display themselves. But many do not have an alternate display to try this (or just can't be bothered) so they are either stuck with D65 or they can try one of the two that has been provided.

Hope that clears it up.
 

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A 5nm Spectro and a 10nm Spectro do not read white (the mixture of RGB) in the same way. There is actually a difference in how the two read white on the Plasma (albeit small difference), but on a wide gamut display with narrow bandwidth primaries this difference is much larger, hence why the Jeti 1501 5nm Spectro and the X-Rite i1 Pro2 10nm Spectro read the exact same patch on the exact same display differently when being measured simultaneously.

This is why I did the experiment at the time whilst I still had both meters in my possession and provided the alternate xy coordinates for i1 Pro2 users to try. All the while making the disclaimer that X-Rites Inter-Device Agreement (meter variance) was published as an Avg of 0.4 dE94 with a Max of 1.0 dE94, so they may, or may not work for all or any user at all. However, I know several users that have i1 Pro2 meters that have measured those precise coordinates (xy 0.3120/0.3356) and consequently measured with an i1d3 OEM/Retail while using the FSI created EDR, and those measurements have all come back within the same tolerance levels of i1d3 meters I myself have personally measured. So it can be concluded that the i1 Pro2 AWP coordinates are "in the ballpark"

The only way for anyone to know for sure is to perceptually match to a different display themselves. But many do not have an alternate display to try this (or just can't be bothered) so they are either stuck with D65 or they can try one of the two that has been provided.

Hope that clears it up.
Interesting, i didn't know that about the Spectro's. Thanks!
 
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My final keeper 77CX (had to swap out 2 before this one due to near-black uniformity issues) has finally reached 200 hrs, and I am getting ready to do a calibration.
I am most familiar with using HCFR, SDR & HDR patterns from avshd and masciola, and my EODIS3 (i1 Display) meter.
I plan to calibrate ISFBright, ISF Dark, and Cinema Home (for HDR) PMs.

Few questions:
1. Can i still achieve accurate SDR & HDR PM calibrations using HCFR rather than using the Calman for LG autocal?
2. Should I run one full pixel refresh (the one that runs every 2000 hrs or whatever) before starting my calibration or am I good to just jump right in?
3. What is the best starting point for PM setting adjustments to enter BEFORE I commence measuring grayscale patterns? Or do I just leave it all at defaults? I'm asking here more on the non-RGB slider settings.
4. I heard i should be setting OLED Light for getting 100 nits off of a 100 IRE pattern - is this for all PMs I want to calibrate or only the Cinema Home one for HDR?
 

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It varies with the calibrator and the number of color spaces/inputs/PMs you wish to have calibrated. You may want to start by finding calibrators here and contacting them for estimates:
 

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It varies with the calibrator and the number of color spaces/inputs/PMs you wish to have calibrated. You may want to start by finding calibrators here and contacting them for estimates:
It varies with the calibrator and the number of color spaces/inputs/PMs you wish to have calibrated. You may want to start by finding calibrators here and contacting them for estimates:
Agreed, plan on at least $450-$600 depending on how many Picture Modes you want calibrated.
 
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Something to add:

Ted has also suggested to target a whitepoint of 0,312 and 0,3356 for use with the i1 Pro. After creating a profile for my i1 Display, is it recommended to use this alternative white point?

D-Nice has yet another alternative, he uses a whitepoint target of x0.3095 y0.3290.

Or do I just go with the preset 0,3127 and 0,329?
I only have one AWP.... x0.309 y0.3290. It works on all 48/55/65” WRGB OLEDs regardless of brand.
 

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It varies with the calibrator and the number of color spaces/inputs/PMs you wish to have calibrated. You may want to start by finding calibrators here and contacting them for estimates:
It also depends on 3DLUT calibration or not. I highly recommend 3DLUT calibrations for LG OLEDs. I’m not talking about 1000 point patch set 3DLUT calibrations either.
 

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It also depends on 3DLUT calibration or not. I highly recommend 3DLUT calibrations for LG OLEDs. I’m not talking about 1000 point patch set 3DLUT calibrations either.
That's a good cue:
What is a reasonable amount of points for creating the 3D LUT?
 

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is there a section where some members posted the setting for calibration?
The majority of people here in this thread are using 3D LUTs for calibration, and those can't be shared for various reasons. Try rtings.com and cnet.com. Both sites publish settings when they test a set. BTW, using someone else's calibrated settings does not mean your display is then calibrated. The accuracy of those settings depends on the state of the display they are tested and developed on, and yours could be different enough to actually make it worse, not better.
 
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