[SanderG]

It absolutely should not take 6 hours to perform a 4913 point display profile (plus 1000 point pre-roll) in ColourSpace.

Not even with a 1000 point verification included should it take anywhere near that long.

Measuring the total of just under 7000 points, using an i1 Display Pro should take less than 4 hours, and that’s including pre-calibration checks, meter profiling, generating and uploading the LUT, volumetric verification, etc.

And even if I does take 6 hours on average (which it most certainly doesn’t if done correctly), then you can’t compare the time it takes to perform that kind of measurement profile to another that does a simple 21 point automatic greyscale calibration, and 101 points for colour correction. Two completely different types of calibration

I think Ted explained why mine took so long. I guess it will have to do for now

One other thing (I've also e-mailed Ted about this, but I think it would be relevant to all). I see these Youtubers claiming that the LG OLEDs can be perfectly calibrated through the WB Service menu only, resulting in amazing dE.

I'm curious about you guys opinion about this. Someone said that, if with a 10-point calibration the numbers are good, there's no way the values in between will be completely off. I'm very curious if this argument actually holds up.

 

[liberator72]

I'm curious about you guys opinion about this.

I do not comment on the contents of YouTube videos. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion.

As you have the tools and software at your disposal to experiment and analyse all aspects of any display, you have the capability to draw your own conclusions and opinions yourself.

 

[munich85]

Can someone maybe please give me an advise?

The mainboard on my 77CX has been exchanged last week and the LG technician guy just changed the mainboard and did not copy any White Balance settings or the correct UTT from my old mainboard.

I already contacted them but it seems they do not really know what to do and LG does not care.

Does that mean that I need to hire a professional calibration service to get the White Balance correct again for my panel?

Also, are they really not able to correct the UTT time? At the moment it shows 7 hours but that is of course totally wrong and I am afraid that the Pixel Refresher will start too late now.

Sorry for those questions, I am really frustrated at the moment and have not a really good knowledge about calibration etc.

 

[Jakob D.]

hi, since only the mainboard and not the panel have been replaced, you don't have to do anything with the white balance. Your factory settings will remain, do not worry. However, when the technicians replace the panels, nobody fits the white balance for the new panel, so you have to lend a hand yourself or offer someone who knows what he is doing in order to calibrate correctly!

 

[rv112]

As I wrote in the other thread, I have a huge problem with Dolby Vision content. Sometimes the whole DV content is way too dark and has washed out colors. It looks a bit like LOG footage. I can do whatever I want, only restarting TV helps. Here is a comparison between the bug and after TV restart. Could this be something related to calibration?

 

[miretski23]

Hello guys i,m new in the world of calibration and a proud owner of LG CX 65". I will like to ask when you calibrate with X-rite i1 HDR Game mode did you calibrate with HGIG turn ON or turn OFF. Thanks

 

[Guz911]

Since hgig is tone mapping it should be turned off during the calibrating procedure.


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[miretski23]

Since hgig is tone mapping it should be turned off during the calibrating procedure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, i will try

 

[papamiraculi]

For HDR, use 2 Point controls only from within the user menu, checking between 20/30% and 60/65/70%. Usually a minor adjustment to 65% only will be enough.

Thanks again for your reply, but I want to do this right and have to ask again to clarify:

For HDR I first do a SM WB calibration, at OLED Light 100.
Next I adjust 2 Point values only in the user menu and check 20/30% stimulus for low and around 65% for high.
This is how I understood your post, please correct me if I'm wrong.

I have two questions:
Ted advised against using 2pt SM in combination with any 2pt user adjustment. As I understood him it is either or, not both. Is that only true for SDR? Or is that negligible when only doing a minor adjustment?

Afaik the two point controls in user menu refer to80% (high) and 30% (low). Do I still use the High (Gain) values but display a 65% pattern to do the adjustment you recommended?

 

[liberator72]

Thanks again for your reply, but I want to do this right and have to ask again to clarify:

For HDR I first do a SM WB calibration, at OLED Light 100.
Next I adjust 2 Point values only in the user menu and check 20/30% stimulus for low and around 65% for high.
This is how I understood your post, please correct me if I'm wrong.

I have two questions:
Ted advised against using 2pt SM in combination with any 2pt user adjustment. As I understood him it is either or, not both. Is that only true for SDR? Or is that negligible when only doing a minor adjustment?

Afaik the two point controls in user menu refer to80% (high) and 30% (low). Do I still use the High (Gain) values but display a 65% pattern to do the adjustment you recommended?

Ted's recommendation is based on SDR because he is talking about pre-calibration for a 3D LUT calibration, in which case you do not want any TV processing from the user menu adjustments to be active at all.

You do not have to touch anything in the user menu for HDR after a SM WB calibration, but if you do then the tweaks should be as minimal as possible.

The 2 Point controls in the user menu are not tied to any fixed point at all. They are basic High/Low end adjustments. 65% is recommended as it is just before the point internal tone mapping is applied.

Don't overthink it. If you are not sure, just use your SM WB precalibrated white balance and leave the rest. Or just simply use AutoCAL.

 

[Carlo46]

So, yesterday I tried to do a White point calibration from the SM, I reset the Filmakermode to do this calibration.
I used an i1d3 pro plus with correction matrix.
Ho inserito l'SM nel PUNTO DI BIANCO, ho usato un pattern TED per il 100% di bianco nella finestra del 10% per la lettura del punto di bianco, sull'SM sono andato al valore di CALDO e ho toccato solo la lettura di Verde e Blu da Calman Home per LG il punto di bianco

When I completed the white point in WARM, I copied the same values to MEDIUM and COLD as explained in the youtube video.

The results don't look like the video to me, but they are still very interesting.
Below I will set the default Filmaker mode:

Now place the same reading after setting the WHITE POINT in the SM

It is already a very interesting result as a starting point having only adjusted the white point in the SM, even colorcheker with medium error 1 is not bad.

After that, I worked directly on the 22pt. in manual also to adjust the gamma (I love the bt.1886) and on the CMS and I arrived at an excellent result, as maximum brightness I set 100cd / m2

Obviously before modifying the SM I took the photos at the Green and Blue settings of WARM MEDIUM and COLD to be able to go back if needed.

 

[Jin-X]

Ted's recommendation is based on SDR because he is talking about pre-calibration for a 3D LUT calibration, in which case you do not want any TV processing from the user menu adjustments to be active at all.

By this you are just referring to the WB/CMS user menu only? For example we know game mode by default is with a very cool color temperature, but we would want that at warm 2 (warm 50 for the C8) prior to doing any LUT, correct?

 

[liberator72]

By this you are just referring to the WB/CMS user menu only? For example we know game mode by default is with a very cool color temperature, but we would want that at warm 2 (warm 50 for the C8) prior to doing any LUT, correct?

The part of my response to another user that you have quoted was to clarify there is a slight difference in recommendations between what to do when performing a 3D LUT calibration for SDR, and manual "tweaking" for HDR.

In the case of manually tweaking HDR, it is perfectly fine to make minor adjustments to the 2 Point White Balance of your pre-calibrated colour temperature.

If you are asking for recommendations or advice on what to do when performing an SDR LUT with CalMAN, it would be better if you ask other CalMAN users (which I am not).

 

[papamiraculi]

Ted's recommendation is based on SDR because he is talking about pre-calibration for a 3D LUT calibration, in which case you do not want any TV processing from the user menu adjustments to be active at all.

You do not have to touch anything in the user menu for HDR after a SM WB calibration, but if you do then the tweaks should be as minimal as possible.

The 2 Point controls in the user menu are not tied to any fixed point at all. They are basic High/Low end adjustments. 65% is recommended as it is just before the point internal tone mapping is applied.

Don't overthink it. If you are not sure, just use your SM WB precalibrated white balance and leave the rest. Or just simply use AutoCAL.

I followed your recommendations for HDR with very good results. SM WB adjustment did most of the work, I only had to do a minor 2pt correction (Green Gain -1) to get DeltaEs well below 1, apart from 70% stimulus, which shows a little dip in luminance, which I can't explain but it is still good enough for me.

Some more problems/questions I ran into, if I may ask:

Dolby Vision Cinema
This PM seems to be crushing blacks ootb, and I haven't been able to do anything about it. In Masciola's Black Clipping Pattern DV Cinema is unable to show as many steps as say DV Cinema Home and DV Standard. Is the pattern wrong, is this reference PM really this dark (even for a dark room), or is it me?

Calibration with BFI (OLED Motion Pro) enabled
Since the black crush when enabling BFI hasn't been solved by LG to date, I'd like to calibrate a PM with BFI enabled. Do I just enable it and go through the motions, or is there anything else to pay attention to?
For HDR, with BFI enabled, pre-calibration readings are down in the dumps, even off the chart. To bring them back up I'd have to heavily adjust RGB Balance (+20 and more). Any tips on how to proceed?

 

[liberator72]

I followed your recommendations for HDR with very good results. SM WB adjustment did most of the work, I only had to do a minor 2pt correction (Green Gain -1) to get DeltaEs well below 1, apart from 70% stimulus, which shows a little dip in luminance, which I can't explain but it is still good enough for me.

The deviation in luminance tracking is because that is where tone mapping begins to happen and is normal. It is why it is suggested to adjust below that point (65%) when checking 2 Point High.

Dolby Vision Cinema
This PM seems to be crushing blacks ootb, and I haven't been able to do anything about it. In Masciola's Black Clipping Pattern DV Cinema is unable to show as many steps as say DV Cinema Home and DV Standard. Is the pattern wrong, is this reference PM really this dark (even for a dark room), or is it me?

Have you ever performed AutoCAL on Dolby Vision Cinema? Where do the steps stop?

R.Masciola's patterns are Full Range, when played via the Internal Media player I can just about see down to Code 8 - 0.8% (~0.002 Nits) by eye with my nose to the screen. Code 4 - 0.4% (~0.0006 Nits) is going to be impossible to see with any ambient light whatsoever, including that from the surrounding flashing bars. Generally speaking, if you can see down to Code 12 - 1.2% (~0.0042 Nits) easily, then you are probably not crushing blacks.

Calibration with BFI (OLED Motion Pro) enabled
Since the black crush when enabling BFI hasn't been solved by LG to date, I'd like to calibrate a PM with BFI enabled. Do I just enable it and go through the motions, or is there anything else to pay attention to?
For HDR, with BFI enabled, pre-calibration readings are down in the dumps, even off the chart. To bring them back up I'd have to heavily adjust RGB Balance (+20 and more). Any tips on how to proceed?

I do not use BFI, I am sensitive to the flicker. I've not personally tested how it affects calibration for this reason.

 

[papamiraculi]

Have you ever performed AutoCAL on Dolby Vision Cinema? Where do the steps stop?

R.Masciola's patterns are Full Range, when played via the Internal Media player I can just about see down to Code 8 - 0.8% (~0.002 Nits) by eye with my nose to the screen. Code 4 - 0.4% (~0.0006 Nits) is going to be impossible to see with any ambient light whatsoever, including that from the surrounding flashing bars. Generally speaking, if you can see down to Code 12 - 1.2% (~0.0042 Nits) easily, then you are probably not crushing blacks.

Yes, I used Autocal for DV.

DV Autocal is behaving erratically.
Is the 2020 iTPG STILL bugged? It is crushing blacks for me.

In addition, it happened to me frequently that the colors were completely off after the DV Autocal, for all DV PMs, not only the one I calibrated. After power cycling the TV they were fine again.

Also tone mapping changes to DV Cinema-Home did not revert after a reset of the PM.

I'd try calibrating DV manually, but I think there is no way to do this in Calman Home.
Guess I'll live with the black crush then.

 

[rv112]

I have the same experience with DV and autocal.

 

[liberator72]

Yes, I used Autocal for DV.

DV Autocal is behaving erratically.
Is the 2020 iTPG STILL bugged? It is crushing blacks for me.

In addition, it happened to me frequently that the colors were completely off after the DV Autocal, for all DV PMs, not only the one I calibrated. After power cycling the TV they were fine again.

Also tone mapping changes to DV Cinema-Home did not revert after a reset of the PM.

I'd try calibrating DV manually, but I think there is no way to do this in Calman Home.
Guess I'll live with the black crush then.

I know all about the sporadic issues with DV AutoCAL which is why I asked. Some of these issues can not be fixed by performing a simple Picture Mode reset. I tried to speak about them briefly in the past but I was fobbed off (basically told I didn't know what I was talking about), so I have given up trying to explain it.

I also find it quite funny that one of the issues that was only just recently fixed (relating to the DV CFG file) was something I have been doing myself manually since the 2017 series LG OLEDs with DV calibration.

All of this is why I gave up with DV AutoCAL long ago and only ever manually calibrate it. There are two ways to easily and fully calibrate DV manually in CalMAN Home, I have done it myself in the past, and it works better than AutoCAL in my opinion.

But I say again, I do not use CalMAN at all anymore, so for guidance on how to do it I suggest that you ask CalMAN users.

 

[WiFi-Spy]

Yes, I used Autocal for DV.

DV Autocal is behaving erratically.
Is the 2020 iTPG STILL bugged? It is crushing blacks for me.

In addition, it happened to me frequently that the colors were completely off after the DV Autocal, for all DV PMs, not only the one I calibrated. After power cycling the TV they were fine again.

Also tone mapping changes to DV Cinema-Home did not revert after a reset of the PM.

I'd try calibrating DV manually, but I think there is no way to do this in Calman Home.
Guess I'll live with the black crush then.

Next week we are releasing the shadow detail test patterns including the Dolby Vision version so you can use the shadow detail control in Calman. If you are using the DVS test patterns they are full range so they are not appropriate to validate shadow detail in DV after Calman DV calibration.

We have worked with Spears&Munsil to create the shadow detail test patterns.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[dauger]

In addition, it happened to me frequently that the colors were completely off after the DV Autocal, for all DV PMs, not only the one I calibrated. After power cycling the TV they were fine again.

You might be able to avoid this by disconnecting the display and the meter from within the Calman UI before viewing content. I was having this problem in the past and I think that worked for me, but I could be misremembering.