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I’m starting to believe it’s the new Fios TV one boxes that are the issue. I’m have the same no input detected problem on a Sony A9G. Also had it on my prior TVset after upgrading the Fios box.
I had a similar problem with my C9 and Fios one box . I replaced both devices and the issue was resolved . I would have Verizon replace the box . I had some other issues with the C9 so that was replaced . My Directv and Tivo boxes never had any problems with the LG OLED tv .
 

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While we are on settings, is the general consensus that using 2.2 for the gamma is more accurate than 1886?
No. Luckily, on this issue, we definitely don't need to vote, or ask for a consensus of people's opinions, to know which gamma is "more accurate". We have facts. It's 2.4. Modern SDR content is mastered at gamma 2.4 for viewing in dark surroundings at 100 nits. Anything else is not "reference".

On an OLED, gamma 2.4 is exactly the same as BT.1886 because the later has a "correction" in the very dark near-black area for crappy LCDs which can't do blacks properly. But on an OLED, BT.1886 and gamma 2.4 are the exact same curve. You should tell your LCD-owning friends to use BT.1886 instead of gamma 2.4 for their night viewing.

Separately, you might have a brighter room, or want to watch more stuff during the day. This is fine. You can choose gamma values lower than 2.4 (which "come out of black" more quickly) such as 2.2 or even 1.9. This is the whole reason TV manufacturers give you an ISF "day" and ISF "night" modes. You are supposed to choose 2.4 for the night and 2.2/1.9 for the day.

Or you may have family members that refuse to have the room dark enough at night for 2.4 to be properly visible. That's fine, you can choose something else - but it's not "accurate" which was your question.

This picture is nicked from https://color.viewsonic.com/explore/content/Accurate-Gamma_4.html which is a very nice article on the subject.
 

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I had a similar problem with my C9 and Fios one box . I replaced both devices and the issue was resolved . I would have Verizon replace the box . I had some other issues with the C9 so that was replaced . My Directv and Tivo boxes never had any problems with the LG OLED tv .
I’m starting to believe it’s the new Fios TV one boxes that are the issue. I’m have the same no input detected problem on a Sony A9G. Also had it on my prior TVset after upgrading the Fios box.
Interesting, yeah I have the one box as well....and it didnt do this on my QLED, and I havent touched the shield settings.

I did another test, switching from ps4 to fios and it was fine. Then did shield to something else and sure enough, it shut off...
 

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I am coming from a VIZIO M602i-B3 (2014). Will a CX have same, better, worse bright room performance? Both brightness and glare.

I presume the increase from Vizio 240 nits to over 800 nits on the CX will be markedly better.

I don't watch sports. TV, broadcast news, Games 95% of use

I just switched from a M602i-B3 myself (it's in the bedroom now). The LG is far and above anything the Vizio delivers. Brightness, clarity, colors, etc ... Everything about this TV is markedly better than the Vizio, including the brightness.
 
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Ok, so it is 100% the shield that is the issue. It seems the CX is having an issue detecting what it is?

On initial TV setup, it auto recognized it as "NVIDIA". I tried playing with the settings on the shield, and the shutoff when switching inputs from the shield still happened.

I restarted the shield, and now the TV is showing 2 devices on HDMI3, NVIDIA and SHIELD. I cant for the life of me figure out how to delete the NVIDIA input. Can anyone tell me?

See screenshot showing 2 inputs for HDMI3, where the shield is plugged in. Sorry for all the posts, this is frustrating the living heck out of me...
 

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Ok, so it is 100% the shield that is the issue. It seems the CX is having an issue detecting what it is?

On initial TV setup, it auto recognized it as "NVIDIA". I tried playing with the settings on the shield, and the shutoff when switching inputs from the shield still happened.

I restarted the shield, and now the TV is showing 2 devices on HDMI3, NVIDIA and SHIELD. I cant for the life of me figure out how to delete the NVIDIA input. Can anyone tell me?

See screenshot showing 2 inputs for HDMI3, where the shield is plugged in. Sorry for all the posts, this is frustrating the living heck out of me...
Make sure you send the bug report to LG or it won't get fixed.
 
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Make sure you send the bug report to LG or it won't get fixed.
sure, id love to do that. Can you please let me know how to do that? Thanks.
 

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CX77 cal

I did a 2pt white balance and ran color checker and have a question. Display CX77 warm2, bt1886, all processing off, Lumagen pro, Calman & C6. I also did a 3d lut and why does all the points above ten on the color checker remain. Particularly the blue error.
 

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Don't crucify me guys. I'm just trying to provide a very GENERAL overview.

If you read the first page of this entire thread, you will see that there are MANY changes.
But when all is said and done, the general viewing experience difference is as follows:

According to D-Nice - Virtually nothing.

According to jrref - The CX has slightly better motion handling that is finally just right.

According to the flatpanelshd review - the CX has more in common with the C9.
https://www.flatpanelshd.com/review.php?subaction=showfull&id=1585020920

There is an improved black frame insertion option that, from what I have read on here, is "close but no cigar".
You can read posts on this thread about an audio output omission or change to the CX and how to address this in your audio system.

The CX has more than a couple of "glitches" that need and will get firmware updates. But what new tv doesn't have that? (Kind of the price you pay to be one of the first to get the "latest and greatest").

There are some "tasty" motion improvement options for gammers.

From what I have been reading, you can't go wrong with either set.
I'm sure those who have the CX or both sets can provide you with a more accurate and much more robust conclusion.

I would encourage you to take the time to read through these posts. In this way you will hear from "those in the know" who have spent time with both sets. A treasure trove of details and real world experiences awaits!
The technology, right now, has gotten to the point where any changes are going to be subtle and not dramatic. The CX actually has a couple of improvements in motion, upscaling, i'm going to say color accuracy and i'll talk about this at some point since this is a whole discussion on it's own, and the dithering for near black was improved. Also many of the improvements are with the AI functions that many might not use here and the OS. The new OS is actually pretty cool and much smarter. Also for those who calibrate their own sets with Calman, the internal pattern generator has been changed so now you can do a verification where last year the placement in the pipeline didn't allow for that. All this said, you need to look at the set yourself to see which "tweaks" are important to you or not. The bottom line is 2019 sets aren't going to be available much longer so it's going to make choosing one set vs another moot.
 

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I hope some can help. Hopefully this is simple. I did the firmware update .45 and a few hours later after turning the tv off and back on I had no access to any inputs. I had to do a full reset on the tv to get my inputs back. I had to set everything back up again. Reinstall all my settings and apps. When I first started, I had game mode set on HDMI 3 for the PS4 and it had a game mode I can access. I then started setting up the other inputs. I got to HDMI 2 (Apple TV) set it up and saved those settings to all inputs. When back to PS4 (HDMI 3) and lost game mode. How can I get game mode back without having to do a full reset on the tv? Thanks in advance. I just had a serious battle with COVID19 and have been out of this thread for a while. Please excuse me if this has already been covered.
 

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Ok, so it is 100% the shield that is the issue. It seems the CX is having an issue detecting what it is?

On initial TV setup, it auto recognized it as "NVIDIA". I tried playing with the settings on the shield, and the shutoff when switching inputs from the shield still happened.

I restarted the shield, and now the TV is showing 2 devices on HDMI3, NVIDIA and SHIELD. I cant for the life of me figure out how to delete the NVIDIA input. Can anyone tell me?

See screenshot showing 2 inputs for HDMI3, where the shield is plugged in. Sorry for all the posts, this is frustrating the living heck out of me...
Not sure if this is related to your issue or not ... but yesterday I was making some adjustments in my UMC-200 audio processor, and have HDMI connected from it to HDMI #2 on the LG for eARC. While moving through the UMC-200 menu's, I noticed an EDID error being reported. Maybe it's due to the UMC-200's implementation? not sure ... But if something's not right in the LG EDID, couldn't it cause your issue?



 

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I am still using D-Nice's recommended setting on my Pioneer Kuro from 12 years ago... Definitely better than the OTB settings were...
Yep you can try anyone's settings, if you do not like them, change the setting back ;)
 

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How do I get Game mode back? My only options are
Vivid
Standard
APS
Cinema
Sports
HDR effect
Filmmaker mode
ISF bright
ISF dark
No game mode to be found

Am I going to have to do a full reset on the tv again to get hame mode back? Very confused 🤷*♂ my B6 was so straightforward when it came to simple stuff like this.
 

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Not sure if this is related to your issue or not ... but yesterday I was making some adjustments in my UMC-200 audio processor, and have HDMI connected from it to HDMI #2 on the LG for eARC. While moving through the UMC-200 menu's, I noticed an EDID error being reported. Maybe it's due to the UMC-200's implementation? not sure ... But if something's not right in the LG EDID, couldn't it cause your issue?



played around a bit more unplugging the shield hdmi, messing with the CEC settings on the TV and shield. At one point the TV got stuck in a loop of switching back and forth constantly between HDMI1 (fios) and HDMI3 (shield), and the only way to get out of it was to shut the TV off.

What I just did was shut off CEC on the TV, and now switching inputs from the shield is fine, no issues. I even have sleep shield when switching inputs set to on in power settings and its not shutting off.

Moral of the story here is it seems its the TV that was causing the issue. I really liked the convenience of CEC, and it worked flawlessly on my QLED without touching anything.

Since I havent heard of anyone else having this issue, do you think the TV is defective and I should exchange it? I am on the latest firmware.
 

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Is there a way to change the discovery settings on my TV and see which devices are currently connected? I'm in an apartment complex and yesterday an iPhone tried to connect to my TV. I'd like to avoid this in the future. Also I've never bothered connecting my TV to my computer/Laptop via bluetooth. Is the soundshare the only benefit to doing this?
 

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Are CX77's in stock at big box? Feel like I see people making reference to it but I dont see it online & don't really want to leave quarantine to stand in line to see if they have anything
 

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Are CX77's in stock at big box? Feel like I see people making reference to it but I dont see it online & don't really want to leave quarantine to stand in line to see if they have anything
My vendor won't have them for 2 weeks :( Seems that they are already out but I'm not sure where.
 
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