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ok, well I opened the C9...I dont have a splitter so I couldnt do the CX and C9 side by side.

I can honestly say I dont see a difference between the 2. The CX may be...brighter? Other than that, nothing jumped out at me. I dont have any measurement tools or anything...

At this point, I think the CX is going back. I dont see a reason to have paid 700 more for it?
 

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I take it there is no need to get newer hdmi cables (up to 48gbps) for the CX yet?

I currently have certified high speed cables, I'm guessing up to 18gbps.
No. Wait until the Ultra High Speed certifications start happening. Otherwise you may get lucky, or you may end up with cables that don't do what you hoped/need.
 
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I don't see why Optical is considered a "settle" option. It should work as well as HDMI pass-through.
Optical can't do Dolby Digital Plus so no Atmos. So slightly worse that ARC and not even close to eARC.
While this is true, I highly doubt most soundbars would reveal any, let alone a significant, difference between DD and DD+.

Regarding atmos, it's a soundbar. Without discrete channels in the ceiling the chances of having a real atmos experience are slim at best.

I am not trying to demean soundbars, some offer very good sound, and all are substantially better than any built-in speakers. However, the benefits of higher quality audio sources can only be realized with equipment that can properly resolve that additional detail. Optical will likely provide perfectly good source quality for the capability of most any soundbar.
 

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While this is true, I highly doubt most soundbars would reveal any, let alone a significant, difference between DD and DD+.

Regarding atmos, it's a soundbar. Without discrete channels in the ceiling the chances of having a real atmos experience are slim at best.

I am not trying to demean soundbars, some offer very good sound, and all are substantially better than any built-in speakers. However, the benefits of higher quality audio sources can only be realized with equipment that can properly resolve that additional detail. Optical will likely provide perfectly good source quality for the capability of most any soundbar.
There are Atmos sound bars. They either use upwards firing speakers or an array of speakers to make a virtual 3D sound field, kind of what is done with Atmos headphone tech. Using optical with an Atmos sound bar defeats the purpose of having an Atmos sound bar.

That being said, nothing beats a proper Atmos setup with surround and ceiling speakers.
 

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While this is true, I highly doubt most soundbars would reveal any, let alone a significant, difference between DD and DD+.

Regarding atmos, it's a soundbar. Without discrete channels in the ceiling the chances of having a real atmos experience are slim at best.

I am not trying to demean soundbars, some offer very good sound, and all are substantially better than any built-in speakers. However, the benefits of higher quality audio sources can only be realized with equipment that can properly resolve that additional detail. Optical will likely provide perfectly good source quality for the capability of most any soundbar.
While we're on that subject; is a:
- Sennheiser Ambeo soundbar
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer


better than a:
- QAcoustics 3020i (FL & FR) set
- QAcoustics 3090ci center channel
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer
- Marantz NR1510 receiver


?
 

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So what does increase burn in potential then if OLED light does not? Or do you men OLED light with ABL kicking in when needed?
All I knw is for hdr 100 is the recommended and correct light to use if im not mistaken but on things like sdr with high oled light along with static logos on the screen for several hours or hdr gaming with huds for extended periods of time news channels etc. can increase the chance of burn in but with most people it would take a long time for something like that to happen but it has been some people who wasn't so lucky. I've had several oleds and I game alot but I also mix my content alot as well and I've never had an issue wit burn in. I keep oled light for HDR 100 but on sdr I keep it low at 25

Sent from my SM-G986U using Tapatalk
 

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ok, well I opened the C9...I dont have a splitter so I couldnt do the CX and C9 side by side.

I can honestly say I dont see a difference between the 2. The CX may be...brighter? Other than that, nothing jumped out at me. I dont have any measurement tools or anything...

At this point, I think the CX is going back. I dont see a reason to have paid 700 more for it?
(Ahem...) Our friend won't be available for posting at this time, because he IS:mad: checking the UNIFORMITY!:D
 

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While this is true, I highly doubt most soundbars would reveal any, let alone a significant, difference between DD and DD+.

Regarding atmos, it's a soundbar. Without discrete channels in the ceiling the chances of having a real atmos experience are slim at best.

I am not trying to demean soundbars, some offer very good sound, and all are substantially better than any built-in speakers. However, the benefits of higher quality audio sources can only be realized with equipment that can properly resolve that additional detail. Optical will likely provide perfectly good source quality for the capability of most any soundbar.
While we're on that subject; is a:
- Sennheiser Ambeo soundbar
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer


better than a:
- QAcoustics 3020i (FL & FR) set
- QAcoustics 3090ci center channel
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer
- Marantz NR1510 receiver


?
I haven't shopped for new audio equipment for over two years, and have been out of the system design game for ten. I have always seen svs get amazing reviews for their subs. Overall, sennheiser has a great reputation, but we all what reputations are worth.

The sub is the easier part of the solution. For home theater and gaming purposes most decent subs will do fine. I would think even base svs would be superior to many other options. That said, if I had to portion the budget, I spend more on a soundbar and less on the sun in general.

Pm me if you want and we can discuss some options. Not appropriate to go further in an oled thread.
 

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Synomenon; While we're on that subject; is a: - Sennheiser Ambeo soundbar - SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer better than a: - QAcoustics 3020i (FL & FR) set - QAcoustics 3090ci center channel - SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer - Marantz NR1510 receiver ?[/QUOTE said:
Just did some reading on the Ambeo... Gets some fabulous reviews. If it's in your budget, seems like it would be a solid choice. And, based on its quality, sending it higher quality audio would likely provide real benefits. Hard to imagine a svs that isn't 'good.' I think you'll be very happy with that combination.

For now, can use soundbar as hdmi hub for higher quality audio. In future, route hdmi through TV to take advantage of higher bandwidth video sources and earc for high quality audio.
 

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Man dolby digital looks awesome but really dim fo. Rmr.

Also noticed i cant change tue motion to anything while in dolby digital. Its stuck in soap opera affext.
 

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While we're on that subject; is a:
- Sennheiser Ambeo soundbar
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer


better than a:
- QAcoustics 3020i (FL & FR) set
- QAcoustics 3090ci center channel
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer
- Marantz NR1510 receiver


?
This really should not even be a question. Separates are always better than a soundbar— doesn’t matter who makes the soundbar.
 

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Hi All,

Planning to get a CX with sonos arc. A bit confuse about the passthrough problems that i read early in the thread.


Will the CX be able to passthrough Atmos trueHD to the Arc and the Arc will be able to transcode atmos truehd?
 

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While we're on that subject; is a:
- Sennheiser Ambeo soundbar
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer


better than a:
- QAcoustics 3020i (FL & FR) set
- QAcoustics 3090ci center channel
- SVS PB12-NSD subwoofer
- Marantz NR1510 receiver


?
This really should not even be a question. Separates are always better than a soundbar— doesn’️t matter who makes the soundbar.
While generally I agree with you, in this case, I would think I top end soundbar may be more dynamic than a set of relatively low end bookshelf speakers....at least based on the reviews I read quickly.

Plus, one concern that was mentioned was a young child. The marantz 1510 is ok, but not great, and will not send hdmi 2.1 signals to the TV, which means when the new gaming systems are released he will need to use earc anyway (or run dual hdmi outs from. Sources which will make the system more difficult for the family to use.

If separates are what he wants, he could go for wall mounted fronts (maybe something like the goldenear supersat 60's), with a cheaper receiver like a nr1501 that can easily be sold and upgraded when hdmi 2.1 models are released. Adding a sub would be easy.

Then he could also add additional channels in the future. Not sure a center channel would add much for his scenario. Better to invest in better fl/fr based on his needs.
 

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No stuttering from my X1X via the Vertex2, but I think you might be right about the CX not putting out lossless audio via eARC, at least with my setup. The MRX 1120 doesn't give detailed info, so I went back to my PC with the Vertex2 and eARC enabled. Only the Dolby sound formats were listed by Windows (no DTS, which is not surprising, but I couldn't get LPCM to show up either, although I believe it did in the past—I'll have to double-check my settings). I downloaded some test files and lossy Dolby soundtracks play, but not lossless ones. Can anyone else confirm whether the TrueHD, Atmos (both lossy and lossless), and PCM soundtracks play from this page via eARC ?

https://thedigitaltheater.com/dolby-trailers/

You could try the DTS page too for DTS-HD MA and DTS:X, but I don't hold out much if any hope there...

https://thedigitaltheater.com/dts-trailers/

Still not sure why the MRX 1120 reports the Game of Thrones season 1 Blu-ray as lossless Atmos via eARC. That's the only exception to what I've written above, but the MRX 1120 doesn't distinguish between TrueHD and Digital+, so I can't be certain what's going on. And I'm still unclear as to whether the Atmos output by the X1X in the system GUI and games (not the Blu-ray app) is based on TrueHD or Digital+.
Thanks for confirming the lack of lossless audio playback over eARC from your end as well. Re DTS - yes I experienced the same, any of my 4K Blurays containing regular DTS, DTS-HD or DTS-X using the Xbox One X's Blu-ray player tracks won't play all due to the CX's inability to send that audio onto the AVR for decoding (I get a message on the bluray playing saying pretty much that). The fact that LG Australia's website (and in some other countries as well) still lists the CX as supporting DTS isn't a good look for them.

Deactivating AVR decoding in the Bluray player's settings on the Xbox One X yields no audio at all which I'm guessing has to do with the fact that the CX still has issues in passing through MC-PCM audio (I'm on the latest firmware 03.00.45). It means that I can no longer use my Xbox One X as my 4K bluray player since half of my collection of discs use DTS-HD not to mention that in its current state it is unable to playback uncompressed Atmos based on the DolbyTrueHD container. Unless of course I instead connect the console directly to the AVR as opposed to the TV, bypassing eARC altogether, but then I lose out on ALLM and VRR.
 

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Not sure what I am looking for, how does this look? Did 5-25% I can go higher if you want me to.

https://ibb.co/18csCR7
https://ibb.co/GkzVykL
https://ibb.co/DWzbN5F
https://ibb.co/886W95F
https://ibb.co/r0QS4DH
https://ibb.co/CvGMVyk
A couple of things.

I'd throw in a 50% and a 100% slide too.

The other thing is that these are ALL very bright. They all look far brighter than the percentage they are trying to show.

Yes, I've seen other people post slides that are say, 10% slides and. they DO show irregularities (if they have them), and they are bright like these. But I've also seen many like mine I took that have a luminosity that MATCHES the percentage of the slide itself.

For me, I'd rather get CORRECT camera exposures that actually match the darkness of the slides so that what the camera is picking up more closely matches at least what the slide actually looks like to the eye. If the exposure is this way off, it's hard for me to have confidence that the captures are ALSO correctly revealing the perceived extent of the panels uniformity. Some might say it makes no difference. But why take such a position that is so far removed from what the eye is seeing in the first place? Does this make sense?

Yes, they are all increasing in brightness as the percentage goes up, but it all should begin with much much darker slides - my 5% slides are almost black.

At least tell me, your dark slides aren't bright like this - right? If so, the only important thing is what you are perceiving with your EYES at home.

The first two slides have some banding throughout and some color uniformity issues - pink hues on the right. The rest look better. I've seen better and I've seen much, much worse. These overly bright captures ARE revealing uniformity problems and strengths, so it might not matter.

Check for it in content with Arrival (the chopper panning scene) and the snowy Revenant. If this doesn't show up in actual content, you are GOOD.
Is your CX this uniform?

Perhaps others can weigh in here.
 

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Not sure what I am looking for, how does this look? Did 5-25% I can go higher if you want me to.

https://ibb.co/18csCR7
https://ibb.co/GkzVykL
https://ibb.co/DWzbN5F
https://ibb.co/886W95F
https://ibb.co/r0QS4DH
https://ibb.co/CvGMVyk
A couple of things.

I'd throw in a 50% and a 100% slide too.

The other thing is that these are ALL very bright. They all look far brighter than the percentage they are trying to show.

Yes, I've seen other people post slides that are say, 10% slides and. they DO show irregularities (if they have them), and they are bright like these. But I've also seen many like mine I took that have a luminosity that MATCHES the percentage of the slide itself.

For me, I'd rather get CORRECT camera exposures that actually match the darkness of the slides so that what the camera is picking up more closely matches at least what the slide actually looks like to the eye. If the exposure is this way off, it's hard for me to have confidence that the captures are ALSO correctly revealing the perceived extent of the panels uniformity. Some might say it makes no difference. But why take such a position that is so far removed from what the eye is seeing in the first place? Does this make sense?

Yes, they are all increasing in brightness as the percentage goes up, but it all should begin with much much darker slides - my 5% slides are almost black.

At least tell me, your dark slides aren't bright like this - right? If so, the only important thing is what you are perceiving with your EYES at home.
The first two slides have some banding throughout and some color uniformity issues - pink hues on the right. The rest look better. I've seen better and I've seen much, much worse. These overly bright captures ARE revealing uniformity problems and strengths, so it might not matter.

Check for it in content with Arrival (the chopper panning scene) and the snowy Revenant. If this doesn't show up in actual content, you are GOOD.
Is your CX this uniform?

Perhaps others can weigh in here.
Agreed. Those pics are bright. These are the settings you should be using when taking pictures of 5%-20% grey slides

ISF Dark
OLED 35
Contrast 85
Brightness 50
Gamma BT.1886

This is according to the Oled Uniformity Thread here and I find that the OLED Light setting of 35 is key. Any higher than that and you are not seeing the panels true uniformity (or lack thereof) and masking the flaws. I saw some minimal vertical banding on those pics and I can say it will probably stand out more with these settings but at least you'll know.
 
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