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You got pictures showing your doing [email protected] regardless if it is G-sync or not? I have Asus 2080Ti so your able to select in the Nvidia menu for resolutions for [email protected] on cards that are 2.0?

Yes. You have to select the 4K res from the PC list and it will enable 120HZ
I have an RTX 2070 and it works.
Screenshot for your reference:
 

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Do you mean LG is correct or the one who made the error?

I was wondering why LG labeled the 48â€Â (CXPUB) differently than the other sizes in the same series (CXPUA).
See here for a description of the model numbers of LG TVs.
The "B" in comparison to the "A" indicates that these models have a different design, e.g. a different stand.

Everything behind the "CX" always describes the variants of a model.
Gotcha thanks.

I'm looking to get the 48CX as a desktop monitor for my parents (my family mostly uses Surface Books and MacBook Pros). If it does have a new stand, hope it won't interfere with desktop use.

Basically I want to try one first to see how they like it... great PQ/price value compared to high end monitors, but borderline too big. And using a TV means giving up on some monitor features:

- adjustable height/tilt/pivot out of the box
- different aspect ratios like 16:10 (or 21:9 if that's your thing)
- USB-C for DP video/audio, hub, 100W USB PD charging
- even Thunderbolt 3 (or USB 4 later)
- or at least traditional DisplayPort


P.S. To use as a TV I'd want a bigger size as well as ATSC 3.0 tuner.
 

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Had 65CX TV up now for just 48h... initial non-technical thoughts from OLED noob. I’ve upgraded from a 2014 LED, I’m also used to watching a family member’s C9. In summary, staggering upgrade for me, well worth it. Even the Mrs says she sees a difference, which is unusual as she doesn’t even notice TV is on SD not HD res LOL. Maybe because she its at side angle and my old LED washed the colours out.

Would I upgrade from C9? No, looks same. Do I regret not buying s substantially cheaper end C9? No, good to have latest features for future-proofing aside from the DTS/48GHz... Now need to find time to enjoy and tweak it. Then wait for 2.1 AVRs...

- Setup: wall mount, upgraded to 4x HDMI 48GHz cables in wall, 5.1 yamaha AVR, Xbox One X wired to TV & AVR via optical, all else via AVR (Yamaha supports 4K HDR not 2.1, basic ARC)
- Physical: how thin in that? Apart from the electronics mobo. Makes my old TV look like a heavy brick.
- Size: 65” is sweet spot for me, had 58” before, sit about 3m away, 77” would be sensation but take up most of the wall and also I hope it includes a divorcee lawyer calling card. Love the thin bezel.
- Layout on back: WTF! Why are there loads of rear-facing ports??? I’ve had to buy 90 degree bends for all the connections. And use a spacer on my otherwise super-this wall mount (Sanus VLT16).
- Picture: Wow, just wow, why didn’t I buy on OLED years ago? Even SDR, compared to my old LED the contrast and blacks are stunning. HDR sparkles, some Donby Vision 4K HDR test content on YouTube is staggering. In quite a bright room during the day (big west facing window perpendicular to screen, has blind). No issues with it being too dark. Left it on standard OLED settings for the moment.
- Motion: normal TV sport I can see slight motion judder but only if you “look for it”, not tried playing with settings yet
- Interface: is fantastic LG vs Panasonic (2014 mind)
- Colours: Standard mode for cable TV seems quite blue, I’ve switched to ISF Expert Bright, seems good, not tweaked yet - from posters settings here (thank you all!)
- Anomalies: Some artefacts at 5% grey on first start up (before any auto-comps) bit of dark patch left side, very slight oval shape, not really noticeable by eye also no impact on actual content. Will re-do captures and post on the OLED thread. Not perfect out of box but not worrysome. Edit: good news, pretty much zero tinting. Oval gone. Dark areas on left remain but moved a bit I guess due to auto-comp. not planning to do manual comp unless it becomes noticeable in content.
- Apps: no Flickr! Bummer. Have to use Apple TV unless there’s a better way, but I’ve only got an old 1080p box.
- Clever notice of source name psssthrough from AVR to TV, didn’t know you could do that
- Few weird issues with CEC(?) where TV somehow manages to keep changing by AVR’s source to one I don’t want (not cable), not during watching just on switch on, not sure why
- No issues so far with silent DTS, just ‘cos I’ve not forced it
- 48GHz-gate: No issues with missing 12-bit mode needing 48GHz from devices I don’t have to send to a panel that is 10-bit anyway (surprise LOL)
- Smell: no weird TV smells


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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Any news on whether dts passthrough would be enabled in a future firmware update?? I am only getting dolby digital on my avr with my ps4 connected to the tv.
 

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Trying to research differences between the 77" C9 and CX and seeing conflicting reports. Has LG confirmed that only the CX might get 120 Hz BFI, and the C9 will not? Or will neither get it?
 

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Any news on whether dts passthrough would be enabled in a future firmware update??
Rhetorical question: Why do people think this would change, such that there's a need to keep checking for "news"? :eek:

I am only getting dolby digital on my avr with my ps4 connected to the tv.
That's because it can't do it, and you may not (clearly not, sadly) have read the million posts about it, but it won't be changing in a future firmware update, no. It's the same as when Samsung removed DTS many years ago, and a number of their customers went nuts, but it clearly didn't harm their sales because they didn't reverse back on it in the next year.
 

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thanks for the quick end to my misery.I dont need to do more research now. Shouldve saved 400 bucks, gone with the C9...

time to look for and spend more money soon on an avr that can pass through hdr,dolby vision and maybe 4k 120hz..but is there one....
 

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Cinema for me, although I think Cinema Home looks much better.

Cinema Home doesn't let you change true motion (no idea why...), and I cant stand watching content with it. Really the only reason I don’t it.

If you go under settings general then AI services and turn of Auto Genre selection you can then change the true motion.


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A couple of things.

I'd throw in a 50% and a 100% slide too.

The other thing is that these are ALL very bright. They all look far brighter than the percentage they are trying to show.

Yes, I've seen other people post slides that are say, 10% slides and. they DO show irregularities (if they have them), and they are bright like these. But I've also seen many like mine I took that have a luminosity that MATCHES the percentage of the slide itself.

For me, I'd rather get CORRECT camera exposures that actually match the darkness of the slides so that what the camera is picking up more closely matches at least what the slide actually looks like to the eye. If the exposure is this way off, it's hard for me to have confidence that the captures are ALSO correctly revealing the perceived extent of the panels uniformity. Some might say it makes no difference. But why take such a position that is so far removed from what the eye is seeing in the first place? Does this make sense?

Yes, they are all increasing in brightness as the percentage goes up, but it all should begin with much much darker slides - my 5% slides are almost black.

At least tell me, your dark slides aren't bright like this - right? If so, the only important thing is what you are perceiving with your EYES at home.

The first two slides have some banding throughout and some color uniformity issues - pink hues on the right. The rest look better. I've seen better and I've seen much, much worse. These overly bright captures ARE revealing uniformity problems and strengths, so it might not matter.

Check for it in content with Arrival (the chopper panning scene) and the snowy Revenant. If this doesn't show up in actual content, you are GOOD.
Is your CX this uniform?

Perhaps others can weigh in here.
In the spirit of this being a CX thread, I reconnected the CX and set the picture mode to ISF dark room, with oled light set to 35. Room is pitch black. Had a hell of a time getting my pixel 2 camera to focus, so I hope these are better than the c9 pics I posted earlier. The smudge on the left and right side of the screen is not visible to the eye, its my camera.

How do these look compared to the c9? First oled, so again, i am not sure what to look for. Any comments would be appreciated, thank you. Did 5-50, as well as 100%

https://ibb.co/vx86KsP
https://ibb.co/9n9cqw0
https://ibb.co/fS4YR4X
https://ibb.co/BNJzLJP
https://ibb.co/Gp7dZg9
https://ibb.co/cwM0cTP
https://ibb.co/r2cbzbv
https://ibb.co/z4cp8tN
 

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Its very good, I am using it on 1080p sdr games on ps4 on my 65 cx. Buttery smooth
What setting? Anything higher than low makes the pic significantly dimmer for me
 

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In the spirit of this being a CX thread, I reconnected the CX and set the picture mode to ISF dark room, with oled light set to 35. Room is pitch black. Had a hell of a time getting my pixel 2 camera to focus, so I hope these are better than the c9 pics I posted earlier. The smudge on the left and right side of the screen is not visible to the eye, its my camera.

How do these look compared to the c9? First oled, so again, i am not sure what to look for. Any comments would be appreciated, thank you. Did 5-50, as well as 100%

https://ibb.co/vx86KsP
https://ibb.co/9n9cqw0
https://ibb.co/fS4YR4X
https://ibb.co/BNJzLJP
https://ibb.co/Gp7dZg9
https://ibb.co/cwM0cTP
https://ibb.co/r2cbzbv
https://ibb.co/z4cp8tN
Ran this test on the cx, and I do see some slight banding in the lower grayscale range. Also saw some on a panning scene in Westworld season 3 episode 2. I think this seals it...the cx is going back. Going to use the 700 savings on an Atmos soundbar.

Really didn't want to go down this rabbit hole, seeing as my q8fn had uniformity issues (dse) but I think this all but seals the cx's fate for me...now that I've seen it I can't unsee it

 

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Hate to quote myself, but any chance a cheap quadro/expensive rtx card would somehow circumvent the 10bit output handicap?

Is the panel true 10bit or 8+FRC.

What video card on the planet will drive 120hz 4k anyway? My 2080ti in good rtx games can’t hit 60!

If you send it hdr with rgb full 8 bit windows 10 does the 10bit dithering for you giving you 10bit (8+FRC).
 

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Is the panel true 10bit or 8+FRC.

What video card on the planet will drive 120hz 4k anyway? My 2080ti in good rtx games can’t hit 60!

If you send it hdr with rgb full 8 bit windows 10 does the 10bit dithering for you giving you 10bit (8+FRC).
The assumption is it is a CX OLED. I would be shocked if 3XXX cards (or 2080ti for some games) from Nvidia cant break the 60 FPS barrier. I am not interested in 8bit plus dithering.

Again, if the consumer RTX cant hit 10bit due to Nvidia restrictions, there may be a way to take a cheap Quadro SLI and output it to 10bit.
 

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Trying to research differences between the 77" C9 and CX and seeing conflicting reports. Has LG confirmed that only the CX might get 120 Hz BFI, and the C9 will not? Or will neither get it?
C9 only has the option to turn BFI on or off. The CX gets multiple levels of BFI, but I am not sure if any of those are 120 Hz BFI. At this point in time, I doubt they are going to change anything about the BFI on C9.
 
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