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first time OLED person here and i went with the 55" CX. I have read all 132 pages in this thread and i am afraid to do any kind of grayscale tests. Anyone else refuse to do the greyscale tests?
I'm with you. Loving the picture with every source thrown at it, and don't want to wake a sleeping bear. I've even had the YouTube app open twice and resisted the urge.

I have watched several movies/shows that are dark, and have yet to see any banding issues in gray areas, even when actively looking for it.

Let your eyes tell you if it's good enough. If you haven't seen any issues, why go looking? Unless you want an excuse to return/exchange the set.

It is just important to keep this forum in context...
 

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Interesting observation from my comment about black panther having the flickering in letterbox issue in hdr. I watched it on my movies anywhere account in hdr and no flickering at all on default 50 brightness. I wish I had a code for wonder woman to test that one out because that campfire scene is so annoying

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Interesting observation from my comment about black panther having the flickering in letterbox issue in hdr. I watched it on my movies anywhere account in hdr and no flickering at all on default 50 brightness. I wish I had a code for wonder woman to test that one out because that campfire scene is so annoying

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I saw flickering in DV in captain marvel, avengers, and thor...the flickering was in the letterboxes, not the actual movie itself.

Setting brightness to 49 gets rid of the flashing? I thought that was only for raised blacks? Im def not seeing raised blacks though
 

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So I’ve read that black level should always be set to low, always set to auto, never on high. What is actually the correct setting then? I’ve read auto works sometimes but if going through AVR usually not so err on side of caution and set to low, but then I’ve read that causing issues also with colors. Man, gone are the days of simple tv setup and settings. It’s all too overwhelming now. 100’s of different settings and options and now all those doubled because of HDR. I don’t even know where to start haha.
 

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saw in another thread someone suggesting the CX is so bad that they think it'll get recalled lmfao
Must be the same guy I saw that posted it in the shootout chat...i saw that and was like...wtf?
 
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I saw flickering in DV in captain marvel, avengers, and thor...the flickering was in the letterboxes, not the actual movie itself.



Setting brightness to 49 gets rid of the flashing? I thought that was only for raised blacks? Im def not seeing raised blacks though
Yes 49 gets rid of the flickering as well in the letterboxes as well as raised blacks

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So I’ve read that black level should always be set to low, always set to auto, never on high. What is actually the correct setting then? I’ve read auto works sometimes but if going through AVR usually not so err on side of caution and set to low, but then I’ve read that causing issues also with colors. Man, gone are the days of simple tv setup and settings. It’s all too overwhelming now. 100’s of different settings and options and now all those doubled because of HDR. I don’t even know where to start haha.
For me I haven't any issue with the auto setting when gaming going directly to the tv itself. I cant speak on connected avr devices

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Folks, for those who watched the VE CX vs A8H yesterday via the live stream, please be aware we didn't know that the LG looked slightly red on the stream. When I got home and looked at the stream I was shocked. In person, the two sets looked almost identical. We will have to figure out why that happened for next time. But I hope you enjoyed the commentary and the surprise visit by D-Nice. I tried to touch on all the subjects that have been discussed on this thread and it was good to bring in D-Nice to talk about his experience and testing as well.
I don't know if anyone noticed this, (maybe not because I'm VERY sensitive to it), but I noticed that the Sony had considerably more of a 3d depth than the LG. My brain could actually calculate the distance of things in the background, whereas with the LG, I could not. (If this was brought up in the video and I missed it, please no worries).

It's sort of like the difference between closing one eye while viewing your tv or this youtube video and watching with both eyes open.

Having said this, I actually prefer this flatter look for film based material. I've noticed that when a tv exhibits this sort of depth, it will retain this characteristic no matter the viewing application. It's great for sports and real life viewing. But for me, it "competes" with the flatter look of film that I so desperately try to maintain.

As the tech keeps changing, I often feel that it is a "losing" battle.
When confronted with the choice between two tvs, and one looks more "impressive", I have to stop and really weigh the pros and cons.

Again, I'm VERY sensitive to depth. As I have said before, I have noticed changes in my tvs depth when activating a setting that has nothing to do with it. Most people on these thread do not notice this. From personal experience, when I show such things to friends I have over, most will see NO change while a few will find it quite OBVIOUS. Because of this, I have "learned" to "forgo" talking about such things most of the time on here because those who can't perceive depth in this way actually find it all quite ABSURD. But I have concluded that depth perception for humans runs along a continuum between those who have this sensitivity and those who do not.

Anyway, that was the main difference that jumped out to me regarding these two tvs while watching this video. It was interesting how, even with it all being processed and going through youtube, it was still quite obvious - to me.
 

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I've had good experiences with Best Buy, so I hope you do too. They brought me three C9's with unbearable coil whine coming from the PSU during bright and colorful scenes, and they let me upgrade to the CX more than a month after I first bought the C9. Fortunately this CX has absolutely no coil whine. Crossing my fingers for you too
Were the returns handled under the standard warranty or under extra cost BB's extended warranty?
 

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I don't know if anyone noticed this, (maybe not because I'm VERY sensitive to it), but I noticed that the Sony had considerably more of a 3d depth than the LG. My brain could actually calculate the distance of things in the background, whereas with the LG, I could not. (If this was brought up in the video and I missed it, please no worries).



It's sort of like the difference between closing one eye while viewing your tv or this youtube video and watching with both eyes open.



Having said this, I actually prefer this flatter look for film based material. I've noticed that when a tv exhibits this sort of depth, it will retain this characteristic no matter the viewing application. It's great for sports and real life viewing. But for me, it "competes" with the flatter look of film that I so desperately try to maintain.



As the tech keeps changing, I often feel that it is a "losing" battle.

When confronted with the choice between two tvs, and one looks more "impressive", I have to stop and really weigh the pros and cons.



Again, I'm VERY sensitive to depth. As I have said before, I have noticed changes in my tvs depth when activating a setting that has nothing to do with it. Most people on these thread do not notice this. From personal experience, when I show such things to friends I have over, most will see NO change while a few will find it quite OBVIOUS. Because of this, I have "learned" to "forgo" talking about such things most of the time on here because those who can't perceive depth in this way actually find it all quite ABSURD. But I have concluded that depth perception for humans runs along a continuum between those who have this sensitivity and those who do not.



Anyway, that was the main difference that jumped out to me regarding these two tvs while watching this video. It was interesting how, even with it all being processed and going through youtube, it was still quite obvious - to me.
That 3d depth look is exactly the best way I can describe the picture on the cx when I compared it to the c9s I've had. I just couldn't figure out the word for it lol

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That 3d depth look is exactly the best way I can describe the picture on the cx when I compared it to the c9s I've had. I just couldn't figure out the word for it lol

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ABSOLUTELY!

I don't own the CX, but that was the FIRST thing I also noticed between these two sets as well.
Very life-like and breathtaking.

Over the years I've noticed tv tech going in this direction. The latest offerings by Sony and LG really demonstrate this.
 

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ABSOLUTELY!

I don't own the CX, but that was the FIRST thing I also noticed between these two sets as well.
Very life-like and breathtaking.

Over the years I've noticed that tv tech is going in this direction. The latest offerings by Sony and LG really demonstrate this.

So we are really going to make comparisons and pass judgement off a video via you-tube downloading to a PC or some other device with God only knows has what settings and/or other processing. Judge for yourself, people still have trouble admitting the Lucky Goldstar makes videophile displays. You know things are crazy when the Vizo fanboys start venturing into the OLED threads :eek:
 

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I have a 77" CX and while I can't speak to all your concerns, I can tell you that the Xbox One X can deliver Atmos to my Anthem MRX 1120 receiver, which doesn't support eARC, via an HDFury Vertex2, which does accept eARC and sends it on via a regular HDMI audio output. The Xbox is connected directly to HDMI 3 on the CX so that VRR and all other video enhancements can be enabled, and the Vertex2 is connected to HDMI 2.

The Vertex2 isn't cheap ($400), but it will do what you want, and it effectively gives any HDMI-compatible receiver eARC functionality. The firmware is updated regularly and the developers are very responsive. I imagine they'll be releasing an HDMI 2.1 version at some point in the future.

As others have also testified, it is possible to send audio to your receiver from your PC via either your graphics card (using a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter if necessary) or from your CPU's integrated graphics HDMI port. That way you'll get G-Sync on the CX and optimal sound from your receiver (up to and including Atmos).
Do you know if there's a cheaper solution for just passing through HD audio and MC-LPCM to a non-eARC AVR? I don't need the video scaling that this device does, and wasn't clear their other products fit my needs.
 

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So we are really going to make comparisons and pass judgement off a video via you-tube downloading to a PC or some other device with God only knows has what settings and/or other processing. Judge for yourself, people still have trouble admitting the Lucky Goldstar makes videophile displays. You know things are crazy when the Vizo fanboys start venturing into the OLED threads :eek:
 
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