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Got the 55" CX. It is my first OLED. Most of my viewing is in pitch black (bedroom with no windows or light) and holy crap....all I can say compared to LCD. Love not having grey blacks and I no longer get headaches from watching for 2+ hours.

My only problems with it so far after 200 hours use is not being able to disable that horrid pointer (or is there?) when you move the remote and that the remote itself is a bit clunky.

I use PLEX a lot and it is very fast compared to my old Roku player. ALL the apps I used on my old Roku player load faster and are much more responsive on this TV (Prime, Netflix etc).

The TV this replaced was an old Sony 55" W802a which I think was a 2014 TV or somewhere around that time haha. Rest in peace old friend.
 

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Got the 55" CX. It is my first OLED. Most of my viewing is in pitch black (bedroom with no windows or light) and holy crap....all I can say compared to LCD. Love not having grey blacks and I no longer get headaches from watching for 2+ hours.

My only problems with it so far after 200 hours use is not being able to disable that horrid pointer (or is there?) when you move the remote and that the remote itself is a bit clunky.

I use PLEX a lot and it is very fast compared to my old Roku player. ALL the apps I used on my old Roku player load faster and are much more responsive on this TV (Prime, Netflix etc).

The TV this replaced was an old Sony 55" W802a which I think was a 2014 TV or somewhere around that time haha. Rest in peace old friend.
The magic remote cursor is very sensitive I agree!

Coming from a B6 I must say the CX does a wonderful job of HDR highlights, so much more pop, and when the picture needs to be bright, for example the sun in the backdrop or sun reflecting off water it really stands out. Cant imagine wanting it to go any brighter, it burns my eyes at times.
 

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The magic remote cursor is very sensitive I agree!

Coming from a B6 I must say the CX does a wonderful job of HDR highlights, so much more pop, and when the picture needs to be bright, for example the sun in the backdrop or sun reflecting off water it really stands out. Cant imagine wanting it to go any brighter, it burns my eyes at times.
Yeah for sure! Brightness a non issue for me as well. Not that I need it because the room is as dark or light as I want it to be. This is my first time watching HDR outside of a showroom and it is awesome.
 

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Let me start by saying I likely will not get a professional calibration, however I do like to make the picture a little better than out of the box. In looking at D-Nice;s settings in post 504, I have a couple questions.

1. He set filmmaker mode with the settings. Where do the other modes come in, such as ISF bright or dark?
2. How important is it to go through all the settings? I went up to the 2 point, but when it got to the 22 point, I backed off.

My first impression of the TV was wow. I put 4 hours in watching and setting up yesterday. It was not until later in the evening when I thought I should check out some scenes from a favorite I have seen many times. The Lord of the Rings trilogy made my jaw drop at the difference from my old set to this CX. It was near like watching a new movie with more detail and color. My room has ambient light coming in. Not real bright but no where near dark. I was really impressed with how well I was able to see the picture with the OLED light setting turned down to under 320 following D-Nice's settings after reading all the dark room talk.
 

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1. He set filmmaker mode with the settings. Where do the other modes come in, such as ISF bright or dark?


2. How important is it to go through all the settings? I went up to the 2 point, but when it got to the 22 point, I backed off.
1. You do not have to use Filmmaker mode. You can use ISF Dark in a dark room and ISF Bright in any environment with lighting. Both are for SDR only. HDR10/HLG and DV should use the Cinema PM.

2. I do not recommend using any of the white balance settings. Not even 2 point. These settings are unique to the panel they were measured and created for. Turning off or disabling processing options in the PM is recommended for purists.
 

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1. You do not have to use Filmmaker mode. You can use ISF Dark in a dark room and ISF Bright in any environment with lighting. Both are for SDR only. HDR10/HLG and DV should use the Cinema PM.

2. I do not recommend using any of the white balance settings. Not even 2 point. These settings are unique to the panel they were measured and created for. Turning off or disabling processing options in the PM is recommended for purists.
Thank you. Google has such a variation of answers it makes it difficult to discern where to start.
 

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Let me start by saying I likely will not get a professional calibration, however I do like to make the picture a little better than out of the box. In looking at D-Nice;s settings in post 504, I have a couple questions.

1. He set filmmaker mode with the settings. Where do the other modes come in, such as ISF bright or dark?
2. How important is it to go through all the settings? I went up to the 2 point, but when it got to the 22 point, I backed off.

My first impression of the TV was wow. I put 4 hours in watching and setting up yesterday. It was not until later in the evening when I thought I should check out some scenes from a favorite I have seen many times. The Lord of the Rings trilogy made my jaw drop at the difference from my old set to this CX. It was near like watching a new movie with more detail and color. My room has ambient light coming in. Not real bright but no where near dark. I was really impressed with how well I was able to see the picture with the OLED light setting turned down to under 320 following D-Nice's settings after reading all the dark room talk.
D-Nice is a colleague of mine and it's nice that he posts settings but you have to remember most panels are different do to manufacturing variations so using his settings may or may not improve your PQ. What i can say is most or all of the 2020 LGs and Sony's are pushing blue OOTB so using the posted 2Pt is a safe way to fix or improve that. But again most sets i've measured will have different amounts of elevated Blue. Filmmaker PM is just another PM preset with all of the picture processing turned off except Real Cinema. But we calibrate it vs ISF Dark so if one day that PM trigger is ever implemented, you can use it to automatically put the set in FM PM. You can also turn off the trigger in the user menus so either way you are covered. If you are a home calibrator and have the time you can calibrate as many or as few of the expert PMs as you want.
 

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The magic remote cursor is very sensitive I agree!

Coming from a B6 I must say the CX does a wonderful job of HDR highlights, so much more pop, and when the picture needs to be bright, for example the sun in the backdrop or sun reflecting off water it really stands out. Cant imagine wanting it to go any brighter, it burns my eyes at times.
I find using two hands on the remote makes it easier to use.
 

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D-Nice is a colleague of mine and it's nice that he posts settings but you have to remember most panels are different do to manufacturing variations so using his settings may or may not improve your PQ. What i can say is most or all of the 2020 LGs and Sony's are pushing blue OOTB so using the posted 2Pt is a safe way to fix or improve that. But again most sets i've measured will have different amounts of elevated Blue. Filmmaker PM is just another PM preset with all of the picture processing turned off except Real Cinema. But we calibrate it vs ISF Dark so if one day that PM trigger is ever implemented, you can use it to automatically put the set in FM PM. You can also turn off the trigger in the user menus so either way you are covered. If you are a home calibrator and have the time you can calibrate as many or as few of the expert PMs as you want.
Thank you. I wont be home calibrating. I think it makes me want to adjust a little because the possibility is there. This is the first higher end set I ever bought and it so blows away anything else I have owned.
 

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What about multichannel PCM doesn't work? It's been working for me since I bought the TV about a month ago.
It hasn't been working properly for me and others. For me, it sometimes. It's never worked for my Nintendo Switch, occasionally (messing with connections and settings, disconnecting and reconnecting, turning settings off and on) with my PS4 Pro, and most of the time with my Apple TV (with the occasional disconnect and reconnect of the HDMI cable that goes into the HDMI2 eARC input of the TV, and most of the time with my PC (granted I had to use CRU, otherwise it would have not recognized the 5.1/7.1 capability).

I asked about the correct settings you should have in your TV for it to work properly before, but no one answered. I'm guessing not a lot of people care or know about MC-LPCM. Would you tell me what settings you use to pass MC-LPCM through the CX?

HDMI Audio Input: PCM, Bitstream?
Audio Output: Auto, PCM, Pass Through?

I know I've tried all combinations before, I just wanna know what I should have it set for when and if the new firmware update comes out and somehow updates the flaky PCM passthrough. Thanks!
 

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It hasn't been working properly for me and others. For me, it sometimes. It's never worked for my Nintendo Switch, occasionally (messing with connections and settings, disconnecting and reconnecting, turning settings off and on) with my PS4 Pro, and most of the time with my Apple TV (with the occasional disconnect and reconnect of the HDMI cable that goes into the HDMI2 eARC input of the TV, and most of the time with my PC (granted I had to use CRU, otherwise it would have not recognized the 5.1/7.1 capability).

I asked about the correct settings you should have in your TV for it to work properly before, but no one answered. I'm guessing not a lot of people care or know about MC-LPCM. Would you tell me what settings you use to pass MC-LPCM through the CX?

HDMI Audio Input: PCM, Bitstream?
Audio Output: Auto, PCM, Pass Through?

I know I've tried all combinations before, I just wanna know what I should have it set for when and if the new firmware update comes out and somehow updates the flaky PCM passthrough. Thanks!
I asked about this too. 5.1 PCM is not working properly for me. I tried everything back when I was on 03.00.45 (which is the firmware where multichannel PCM was fixed, according to page 1 of this thread), and I've tried everything now that I'm on 03.00.60. PC requires me to use CRU for it to work, and consoles set to send out PCM will result in 2 channels, not 6 (5.1).

Is there anyone out there that just connects their PC to the TV and gets 5.1 and 7.1 PCM? ...and more importantly, never loses it and has to play with it to make it work again?
 

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Mount, Power Cable & Recessed Box

Hi, I'm considering the 77 GX but want to make sure I can get it flat against the wall at a reasonable height.

According to the manufacturer's diagram the recessed box needs to overlap with the area directly where the power cable exits the unit. Is there any reason why you can't run the power cable up the cable track channels and have it enter a recessed box further up the unit?
 

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Has the 48" CX started showing up at any of the tv retailers in the US? Value Electronics, etc? I think the one that was listed on the LG site was wrongly listed as it's no longer there and hasn't been there for several days. I noticed it did already come out in the UK on May 11th, but there seems to be nothing online (that I can find) of anyone picking one up. But the retailer Curry's is selling them.
 

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CRU users: are you Importing hdmi-bitstream.dat? If not, what audio format(s) do you use? Are you changing the video EDID, too? If so, to what?
 
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