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So are others getting that popping through Earc on their Denon surround sound? Low but very noticeable crackling hitting different speakers at random.

I’m having issues with the magic remote going crazy with the volume Up and down since the update. It’s just acting odd with my receiver.

Nothing here with my x4500h. I haven’t installed the latest update for it yet that appeared last night. CX is on the latest. Should note I’m only using eARC for internal apps. All my devices go through the AVR. don’t know on the remote I’m using a harmony 950.


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Anyone have input on using cinema vs cinema home in hdr10 content? The only difference I can tell is the color temp is a different scale (and looks cooler by default vs warm2) and it allows use of AI brightness similar to Dolby Vision IQ. Just wondering which people are considering the best choice. Tried Google and it just brought up reviews no forum posts from anywhere


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Anyone have input on using cinema vs cinema home in hdr10 content? The only difference I can tell is the color temp is a different scale (and looks cooler by default vs warm2) and it allows use of AI brightness similar to Dolby Vision IQ. Just wondering which people are considering the best choice. Tried Google and it just brought up reviews no forum posts from anywhere


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Regular cinema is more accurate than cinema home
 

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Regular cinema is more accurate than cinema home

Thanks. I was thinking the same with that temp difference. Same for Dolby Vision? Or is the IQ part worth it there?


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Thanks. I was thinking the same with that temp difference. Same for Dolby Vision? Or is the IQ part worth it there?


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I use regular cinema on dolby and filmmaker mode for hdr. I don't use any of the iq stuff eventhough i like the ai pro for the sound
 

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I watch his videos along with HDTV test videos and many other youtubers reviews, I wouldn’t have even mentioned him if I knew he was this hated here on the forums.

Anyways, thanks for your suggestion.

If you watch him then there should be no confusion on why he’s so disliked among video enthusiasts. The man not only bad mouths brands with ridiculous claims, (blood orange reds, LG’s burn in quicker etc...) but he also doesn’t understand a lot of the tech he speaks on. Also the fact that he bad mouths Vincent from HDTVTest, & *real* professional calibrators who actually know what they’re doing should be the biggest red flag for you. He acts as if he’s some calibration guru, yet knows very little. While I don’t necessarily fault him or anyone else for trying to make a profit, but selling tv settings is pretty dumb and should be another red flag telling you he doesn’t understand what he’s doing as ALL tv’s are different. Bottom line is the guy’s a fraud.


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If you watch him then there should be no confusion on why he’s so disliked among video enthusiasts. The man not only bad mouths brands with ridiculous claims, (blood orange reds, LG’s burn in quicker etc...) but he also doesn’t understand a lot of the tech he speaks on. Also the fact that he bad mouths Vincent from HDTVTest, & *real* professional calibrators who actually know what they’re doing should be the biggest red flag for you. He acts as if he’s some calibration guru, yet knows very little. While I don’t necessarily fault him or anyone else for trying to make a profit, but selling tv settings is pretty dumb and should be another red flag telling you he doesn’t understand what he’s doing as ALL tv’s are different. Bottom line is the guy’s a fraud.


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Again, I watch the content of Vincent from HDTV Test, Rtings and other highly regarded content creators for the most part. I haven’t even heard of “Quantum” up until I started researching the LG CX. I consume YouTube content daily and when i researched the LG CX on YouTube about a week ago one of the first videos that came up in search was Quantum’s video where he bluntly bashed the CX which is why I came here to ask whether any of it had any merit because based on my experience AVSForum houses the true experts in the AV industry and I wanted to get insight on the matter.

I own the Lg EC9300 to this day and it has been a spectacular set, I thought about upgrading to 4k this year but i think I might wait till next year. The idea that I’ll have to also upgrade my Onkyo Nr818 AVR as it doesn’t have 4k pass through is discouraging as well because it means I’ll also need to buy a new receiver
 

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What's the recommendation for Gamut settings?
Do you leave it at Auto, Extended or Wide?
I find Wide to be more saturated and I think wide suggests more colour gamut, so why not use that as default? But then again, I don't know much about it and I prefer accuracy over popping colours where it shouldn't be.
 

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What's the recommendation for Gamut settings?
Do you leave it at Auto, Extended or Wide?
I find Wide to be more saturated and I think wide suggests more colour gamut, so why not use that as default? But then again, I don't know much about it and I prefer accuracy over popping colours where it shouldn't be.
Auto is the correct setting. Wide forces the native gamut on all content, so SDR, which isn't mastered to it looks way over saturated. Extended is DCI-P3, which is not as wide as native, but still wider than what SDR is mastered to, so it is not correct either. Auto switches the gamut to what is appropriate for each content, (Rec. 709 for SDR and Rec. 2020 for SDR) so everything will look as correct as the TV can display it. The TV can't fully cover Rec. 2020, but it will show what it can.
 

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I use regular cinema on dolby and filmmaker mode for hdr. I don't use any of the iq stuff eventhough i like the ai pro for the sound
Oh I forgot about filmmaker mode in HDR, I'll have to check that out actually.
 
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I noticed this yesterday, can see it being a bit annoying for yourself and anyone that games and watches movies on xbox. Luckily for me I only use xbox for gaming.
Unfortunately, it is very convenient. One box to do it all.

And who is quantamx? I am sorry I am new around here. I was reading through some other forums like hard av forums and they were speaking about this hevc stuff and not having 48gbps vs last yrs c9? But last years c9 did not get the freesync update? So we cannot get it all I suppose? Maybe next year 12 bit panel with full 48gbps oled?
 

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LG CX eARC issues

Hi
I've got LG 55CX few days ago. Overall it's great but I have problem with my setup. I have old AVR (Yamaha RX-V673) that does support ARC but not eARC. Because I'd like to use TV's built-in apps (Netlfix for example) I choose to make TV as a central hub that get signals from BD (Panasonic DP-UB820) and Android media box (WeTeK Play2). In order to make this work I bought shARC from ThenAudio - it translates eARC signal into normal HDMI audio. TV is set to bitstream/passthrough and eARC is of course turned on.

I have two major issues:

  1. Most of TV's built-in apps doesn't have sound if eARC is turned on. From those I tested only Netflix worked without issues giving DD. Spotify, Ipla and YouTube didn't produce any sound. RakutenTV have trailers and some of them also didn't work. Turning eARC off makes sound work but only as a stereo, including Netflix. I tried various things but non of them work. I'd like to mention here that ThenAudio was extremely helpful - I even got my hands on some beta firmware to test if it would help. :) So is there a way to fix this? It's really annoying because this isn't some budget device where I could expect some thing not to work. :/
  2. I have various BD movies that have DTS in one form of another. I know that CX doesn't support DTS decoding but shouldn't it work when bitstream/passthrough is used by feeding it directly to eARC? I tried remastered I.T. (UHD, HDR - so exactly what TV was designed for) and The Revenant - both use DTS-MA and both feed stereo to the AVR instead. This is quite ridiculous to have Hi-End device that blocks me from watching movies in a proper fashion...Is there a way to fix this? I know I could use second HDMI output from BD but that would add another, unnecessary cable and force me to switch HDMI input on AVR whenever I'd like to watch some movie. This is not solution though, this is only some dirty patching. :p
So...Any suggestions? Some tricks? Way to debug? Or better - to fix? :)
 

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Unfortunately, it is very convenient. One box to do it all.

And who is quantamx? I am sorry I am new around here. I was reading through some other forums like hard av forums and they were speaking about this hevc stuff and not having 48gbps vs last yrs c9? But last years c9 did not get the freesync update? So we cannot get it all I suppose? Maybe next year 12 bit panel with full 48gbps oled?
There is no HEVC video source played back on any device that goes above the HDMI 2.0 limit which is 18gbps. Anyone talking about HEVC and 48gbps limits is a moron.
 

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Auto is the correct setting. Wide forces the native gamut on all content, so SDR, which isn't mastered to it looks way over saturated. Extended is DCI-P3, which is not as wide as native, but still wider than what SDR is mastered to, so it is not correct either. Auto switches the gamut to what is appropriate for each content, (Rec. 709 for SDR and Rec. 2020 for SDR) so everything will look as correct as the TV can display it. The TV can't fully cover Rec. 2020, but it will show what it can.
Yes, the key point is that Auto is always the correct setting.

By the way Extended is not DCI-P3. Even in the Native (wide as it can go) mode, the TV still only covers ~97% of DCI-PI (this kind of stat is normally quoted and measured in reviews only because "71% of Rec.2020" doesn't sound as good and they don't want people to get disappointed :rolleyes: ) . Instead, "Extended" is just another middle setting somewhere between Auto (correct for rec.709) and Wide (the TV's native gamut, as much as it can cover, which is of a size which is ~97% of DCI-P3 and ~71% of Rec.2020: the exact same gamut just measured in two ways).

This means that Auto and Extended both change size based on whether the content is SDR or HDR. Extended/Wide are always the wrong settings to use. :)
 

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You don't have to. Only in a dark room I recommend it for those that care about wanting to view content as it was intended. It may be a difficult transition adjusting to if you normally view content with a higher backlight. It takes a while for your eyes to adjust. If you view content in a lighted room, then you will need to raise OLED light to compensate.
I currently have oled light at 40, in ISF dark room, and do have a side light on generally but I will be getting some bias lightning strips soon, so may drop the oled light a little more.

When I check the patterns and adjust accordingly I presume I should do it in the correct room conditions as well, so ISF dark in evening and ISF bright in bright daytime conditions.
 

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Yes, the key point is that Auto is always the correct setting.

By the way Extended is not DCI-P3. Even in the Native (wide as it can go) mode, the TV still only covers ~97% of DCI-PI (this kind of stat is normally quoted and measured in reviews only because "71% of Rec.2020" doesn't sound as good and they don't want people to get disappointed :rolleyes: ) . Instead, "Extended" is just another middle setting somewhere between Auto (correct for rec.709) and Wide (the TV's native gamut, as much as it can cover, which is of a size which is ~97% of DCI-P3 and ~71% of Rec.2020: the exact same gamut just measured in two ways).

This means that Auto and Extended both change size based on whether the content is SDR or HDR. Extended/Wide are always the wrong settings to use. :)
Based on what exactly does the TV selects the correct gamut? When I watch HDR content, and I manually switch to Wide, then I see how it all becomes saturated. So I assume that by using Auto, the TV doesn't really use the wide gamut.
 

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The MediaLight Mk2 Flex 5m draws a maximum of about 750mA, which exceeds USB 2.0, but when dimmed to about 70% it will not exceed a draw of 500mA. This is in line with the older Quads, which used about 750mA as well. With less wiring and a more efficient 2835 chip, more power goes to the chips, so we can run longer lengths with more chips (no dark corners) than found on the Quad models (an oversimplification, but still true).

However, we always recommend USB 3.0 for stability as even 5v 900mA (with up to 1500mA for dedicated charging per the USB 3.0 spec) is considered low power. You can get away with USB 2.0 with the shorter lengths, even at 100%. The Mk2 Eclipse 1m uses only 300mA but won't cover 4 sides of a 65" display.

You should use the adapter in the event that you see any flicker. It's always good to have more headroom, but I do know that people were using them with LG OLED displays during the testing process. There are Y-connectors that will combine the power of two USB ports if you really need to power from the TV and run at 100%. I've tested them, but I'd just as soon power from the wall.

edited for clarification
What is this bias lighting used for?
 
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