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Right, which I did, I’m trying to decide about after the fact ;)

I assume you leave DTM off for all of the sets you calibrate in HDR cinema?


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Yes. Once you calibrate a specific PM with DTM off you can always turn it on if you want after. The calibration benefits the PM with DTM off or on.
 

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It’s the only way to get 120hz out of the Xbox one X
No. No game on Xbox One X runs above 60hz. Additionally, on Xbox the game only ever runs at settings set by the developer and in the game's menu. If you lower your resolution in the console settings you're only downsampling the 4K to a lower resolution.
 

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HDR Cinema, DTM on or off? What’s everyone’s preference now that they have had their 2020 oleds for a while now?


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I keep it on. I think it adds just enough to be worth using. I can’t see any downside but I don’t have a trained eye
 

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yeah that didn't solve it, but it does seem like it's CEC / eARC related.
So throwing down some more info. Searching the thread a bit I see other people are having issues and Denon receivers seem to come up here a lot too esp in conjunction with the Sharc.

So LG CX 77
SHARC -> AUX2 into Denon, eARC/HDMI2 out from CX
Denon 4300H -> HDMI4 on CX

All devices are plugged into the Denon right now, I haven't routed any consoles directly.

I moved my HDMI out from the Denon to Monitor 2 (no ARC) and completely unplugged the SHARC. This seems to allow me to turn the TV off or switch inputs without issue or losing my inputs.

Thinking this was maybe preventing the Denon ARC->HDMI4 -> eARC -> AUX2 -> Denon loop of some kind of CEC issue, I went ahead and plugged the SHARC back in.

Instantly had the problem and had to factory reset again. Pulled the SHARC out.

For now I think I'm going to run without the sharc and see if I run into this issue just due to the DENON communications, as that seems to be a common link. I also e-mailed the SHARC folks to ask if they've run into this.

Fun times. 😞
 

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Hey guys!
I'm about to buy the CX, but I have a few concerns, question. I'm so sorry if these are already addressed (I have red OPs post!), but I'm still unsure.
  • VRR gaming and gamma levels: I'm buying this TV mostly for gaming, especially next gen gaming (4K, 120Hz, HDR On, VRR/Gsync). I have seen a couple of youtube videos of VRR/Gsync changing the gamma and turning it into grey-ish, washed out. Is this an actual concern? I'd really like to enjoy 4K HDR VRR gaming, and not leaving either of the features out.
  • My other question is connectivity.. I know this is just party related to the CX, but I can't figure out how to solve this. I have a PS4, but let's talk about the 5, because that is one of the reasons why I'm having trouble. I'd like to play 4K/120Hz/HDR/VRR games on it. I also have an older LG LHB745 home theater setup, which is perfectly fine for my room. Right now my PS4 is connected via HDMI to the TV and via Optical to the home theater. I play Netflix and other media files on my PS4, picture goes to the tv, sound goes to the sound system. But, with the TV changing to the CX and the console being swapped out to PS5, I have a whole set of problems.
    • There is no optical out on the PS5, so I can't connect this to the sound system.
      • Should I connect the PS5 to the CX and than the CX to the home theater via ARC? Note: only ARC (no eARC) is supported because of my sound system. Will the CX pass the sound of the PS5 to the home theatre, in lossless mode? Won't the lack of DTS support stop the CX passing through the PS5 sound? I think couple of the games are DTS based, that is why I'm concerned.
    • CX does not support DTS, so I can't always use it's internal player. But I can't use the home theater as a player either, as it won't play 4K, just 1080p. Currently I have no idea how I would play 4K files with DTS.
    • I'd like to use the PS5 as an UHD BR player, will the CX pass the lossless sound (apart from DTS and DTS HD I guess?) via ARC to the HT?
I have a feeling this won't work and I'll have to replace my home theater with an HDMI 2.1 compatible one, so it can play any 4K content, even with DTS and it can also take the sound from the PS5 while passing the video to the TV. Or is there any alternative?

Thank you guys, and sorry if this was somewhat offtopic. At least the first question is not, for sure. :)
Based on what I tested on HCFR and games with Reshade, Freesync and Gamma work fine in both HDR10, scRGB and SDR.

I know of a bug with nVidia drivers where color mode (limited vs full) was wrongly selected based on what the TV reports. Can be worked around by going into specific resolution and choosing full range manually. This was also allegedly helped with the latest TV firmware update 3.11.25.

ARC works well on this TV and so does optical. DTS and other Dolby audio is not supported, even passthrough, but the games and applications should downgrade to PCM automatically.

Caveat emptor: I don't actually have a PS5 to verify.
 

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Hey guys,

I can’t shake the feeing that my blacks are getting completely crushed on my unit. I’m really sensitive to blacks getting crushed and I hate watching dark scenes on this unit.

Are there any HDR/Dolby Vision test patterns that I can download/stream somewhere to check the black levels? Want to make sure I’m not going insane.
Thanks!
Make sure you have HDMI black level set correctly to "High" and output set to preferably RGB Full range or YCbCr. The naming is counter-intuitive on this TV.
Dolby Vision actually has blacks boosted on the TV and it's a known issue. HDR10 does not.

("Auto" should also work. nVidia cards vs older TV firmwares have a problem where wrong range can be selected, esp. if Instant Game Mode is on.)

Correct Contrast and Brightness setting on the set is generally 50, if you messed with it then you can get some crush. Tune OLED Light instead or TrueMotion setting to change brightness esp. in SDR mode. HDR modes tend to work best with max OLED Light, and you can use the manual 1113111 options on Picture Settings to select what the TV reports as HDR range, especially when HGIG is involved. TV is only truly supporting up to about 600 nit (and especially accurate when tuned manually up to 570 nit, unless calibrated with Calman/Lightspace), it will compress brightness hard beyond that; but it reports 1500 nit range by default, while supporting that only for like 6 pixels at most.
Dynamic Contrast and Dynamic Tonemapping sigmoidize somewhat, there dropping Contrast a bit could be required to have accurate brightness curve. They won't get you any better brightness. Dynamic Tonemapping "Medium" is useful for games that try to use bad non-HGIG mapping and output full BT.2020. DCI-P3 reporting mode is broken and does not do anything unfortunately, but you can cheat on PC with CRU. You can choose DisplayP3 content mastering mode and it will affect Dynamic Tonemapping functionality.

For games, MaxFALL should be 400 (or even lower but TV does not have the setting, it can do essentially 300), MaxCLL 700 or 540. Many games get graded to DisplayHDR 600 or 800 non-TrueBlack so the brief 700 minor compression should be fine by reducing total brightness a bit while not showing pumping artifacts like the defaults. If the game has brightness-reducing tonemapping, you can get away with a bit higher MaxCLL.
 

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Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. I'm really enjoying the tv and can't wait till I can get everything connected and get my first movie night in. One question I have is, the tv leans back on the included stand and wanted to know if that's something that is normal? All the screws in the stand are tight and so are the screws attaching it to the tv.
Mine does this too. I read that it is common with this set. While I'm not convinced I have it perfectly screwed into the stand, I inspected it and it's stable enough that I decided not to mess with it. I folded some cardboard and put it under the stand. Just a few millimeters made a big difference...



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HDR Cinema, DTM on or off? What’s everyone’s preference now that they have had their 2020 oleds for a while now?


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Off, HDR10 to me is already brighter slightly than Dolby Vision, DTM brightens picture more, thus showing details that should not really be seen.
I rarely watch much in hdr10 though, 99% of HDR content is in Dolby Vision for me.
 

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@saiyanzzrage I asked D-Nice after he calibrated my set, and he didn't even hesitate to say to leave it off.
Yeah I spent a half hour last night watching content and toggling it on and off. I decided on off.

DTM has more pop, but it washes colors out a bit. Thanks bud


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Off, HDR10 to me is already brighter slightly than Dolby Vision, DTM brightens picture more, thus showing details that should not really be seen.
I rarely watch much in hdr10 though, 99% of HDR content is in Dolby Vision for me.
Agree.

Well I think I’m withdrawn from my qled finally. I even went as far as turning DTM off in hdr game mode, something I thought I would never do. As macmane mentioned way back in this thread, when I did the ps4 hdr calibration, with DTM off I could actually dial it in like it is supposed to...with hgig or DTM on, I could never get the logo to be barely seen...it was either on or off

I think I was used to the searing brightness in hdr and not accuracy. Especially after spending the time with autocal, I want accuracy :)


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Yeah, that's kind of what I figured. I'm really enjoying the tv and can't wait till I can get everything connected and get my first movie night in. One question I have is, the tv leans back on the included stand and wanted to know if that's something that is normal? All the screws in the stand are tight and so are the screws attaching it to the tv.
Correct that is normal. Some folks are putting something under the stand to straighten it out.
 

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I've searched and searched for these answers but haven't found anything.y apologies if my Google skills have let me down.

Is it recommended to enable Freesync premium with Xbox One X (it's ALLM, right)

With HDR & DV, the OLED light goes to 100. Is that ok? I watch in a fairly dark room and have backed it off a bit. Some people I found recommended keeping it at 50 for both which is way too dark for my liking.

Yesterday, randomly, my PS4 Pro said that my HDCP connection to the tv was 1.4. Later on that evening, I went to watch Edge of Tomorrow through my Apple TV and it wouldn't play. The error said that my cables or devices do not support HDCP. I fooled around with everything, swapping cables, rebooting, everything I could think for 30 minutes before I just unplugged everything for a few minutes. Is this a known issue? I saw some others dealing with it randomly, but is it widespread?
 

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So throwing down some more info. Searching the thread a bit I see other people are having issues and Denon receivers seem to come up here a lot too esp in conjunction with the Sharc.

So LG CX 77
SHARC -> AUX2 into Denon, eARC/HDMI2 out from CX
Denon 4300H -> HDMI4 on CX

All devices are plugged into the Denon right now, I haven't routed any consoles directly.

I moved my HDMI out from the Denon to Monitor 2 (no ARC) and completely unplugged the SHARC. This seems to allow me to turn the TV off or switch inputs without issue or losing my inputs.

Thinking this was maybe preventing the Denon ARC->HDMI4 -> eARC -> AUX2 -> Denon loop of some kind of CEC issue, I went ahead and plugged the SHARC back in.

Instantly had the problem and had to factory reset again. Pulled the SHARC out.

For now I think I'm going to run without the sharc and see if I run into this issue just due to the DENON communications, as that seems to be a common link. I also e-mailed the SHARC folks to ask if they've run into this.

Fun times. 😞
I ran into this as well. I just abandoned earc and returned the SHARC to Amazon. If the company responds, I'd be interested in knowing. I have a 6300h
 

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Fun Fact about burn in, burn in is rare, especially considering the amount of 77" effected, I will admit there are more then a few past client who have gotten free screens from LG on 55" and 65" but only 1 single complaint on the 77" over here..... I am sure you know LG is swapping screens for burn in >>> Click here <<<
There is also a fraction of customers compared to the number buying 65 and 55 inch sets. Sample size is completely different my friend. I’m sure you know this from selling them. If it’s many bought a 77 inch set as there were the 65 inch, and then I’m sure we would see a higher count. Hence why I bought the BB warranty. Don’t even need to be concerned with it.
 

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So throwing down some more info. Searching the thread a bit I see other people are having issues and Denon receivers seem to come up here a lot too esp in conjunction with the Sharc.

So LG CX 77
SHARC -> AUX2 into Denon, eARC/HDMI2 out from CX
Denon 4300H -> HDMI4 on CX

All devices are plugged into the Denon right now, I haven't routed any consoles directly.

I moved my HDMI out from the Denon to Monitor 2 (no ARC) and completely unplugged the SHARC. This seems to allow me to turn the TV off or switch inputs without issue or losing my inputs.

Thinking this was maybe preventing the Denon ARC->HDMI4 -> eARC -> AUX2 -> Denon loop of some kind of CEC issue, I went ahead and plugged the SHARC back in.

Instantly had the problem and had to factory reset again. Pulled the SHARC out.

For now I think I'm going to run without the sharc and see if I run into this issue just due to the DENON communications, as that seems to be a common link. I also e-mailed the SHARC folks to ask if they've run into this.

Fun times. 😞
In case you were unaware, there are different firmware options on TheNAudio site. Don't know what it ships with currently. But I think it is up to V1.5. Note, higher ones were introduced to address older AVR/AVP issues.
 

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How I Stopped Worrying about HDR and Learned too Love the OLED

This is a post about our journey and transition from many years of running a projector in our Home Theater, the associated frustrations, and finding a solution in a new 77" OLED from LG.

We updated an old 46" Sony h929 in our family room with the 55cx. The improvement was so astonishing, I found myself rewatching much of the Marvel catalog.

We had a JVC DLA-x990 (same as RS640) projector in our HT bat cave on a 128" 2.35 1.3 gain fixed screen. This is a CIH setup, where I would zoom the image larger to have scope format movie content fill the screen, and zoom out to have 1.78 16x9 content presented with pillars to the left and right of the image. For those that follow projection, the JVC 4 & 5 e-shift seriers were and are still an outstanding benchmarks in contrast performance, some of the best with 1080 SDR, but like all consumer projectors, struggle to get HDR right.

I had reached the point where I was ready to pull the trigger on something new, but what?

I had tried the full range of HDR solutions with the x990 including, a range of ST2084 in projector settings, custom HDR curves (by ChadB), the OPPO 203, the Panasonic UB820, running a HD Fury Vertex and Vertex 2 to spoof the EDID for DV LLDV playback from a Sony x800m2 and ATV4K, and last but not least a pinnacle of HDR performance running DTM on the Lumagen Radiance Pro. And while this list truly represents a continuum of HDR performance benchmarks, besides the significant added expense of some of these projection HDR solutions, none of them could not hold a candle to the HDR and complete viewing experience delivered by the new LG 55cx.

Then another AVS member planted the seed of replacing the projector with a 77cx. In addition recommended mounting the 77cx on a roll around stand, to be able experiment with display position and forced image size perspective.

I was intrigued and tempted. The first step was to put the JVC x990 up for sale. The projector sold very quickly and at a great price, being such a benchmark in the JVC family of products.

My wife was concerned with the notion of switching to a Big TV. You hear this same sentiment expressed by many over in the projection forums, where size of the image is the preeminent consideration. I had doubts, but I was committed to the change.

Fast forward a few days, and I had ordered and was waiting for our local Best Buy to get the LG 77cx OLED ready for curb side pick up. The 77cx box just barely squeezed into our SUV. We brought the unit home and inspected for any physical damage while we waited a couple more days for the stand to arrive.

Our 25'x16' HT is a bat cave in the front half of the room, and a dark color theme in the rear. A perfect setup to maximize the front projection experience. Also a perfect setup to test what others had reported about using a panel display in a bat cave HT environment.

The first thing I noticed was how easily the 77cx disappeared into the dark environment, when showing a full screen black out or when the screen had the black format bars above and below 21:9 scope format movie content. And while the JVC x990 manual lamp iris could be setup for outstanding black level performance, it was never as good as the OLED, and the bright daylight scenes were compromised by the reduced mid and high end luminance range and never quite felt real, if you know what I mean. While on the 77cx, the daylight scenes, jumped out as if you are sitting on a bench in the movie scene, and the darkets material faded into the total darkness of the room.

THAT is what I was looking for. THAT is what HDR is supposed to look like.

My biggest fear with the switch to the smaller 77" panel display, was the dramatic reduction in screen size, from the projection setup. Our front row of seating was positioned 10' from the 128" 2.35 screen. I initially positioned the 77cx at 8' from the front row. This position provided a forced 16x9 perspective, equal to a 16x9 image on the scope projection screen. If I moved the 77cx closer to 6', the forced perspective is as wide as a 2.35:1 movie image zoomed to fill the scope projection screen.

With the 77cx mounted on the mobile stand, it was time to fire up the display, and begin the new paradigm.

1st movie was Aquaman 4k UHD DV disc played on the Panasonic ub820. WOW

Aquaman mixes presentation formats, switching between 16x9 and 21x9 through out the film. First of all, with a projection screen, movies like this are a problem. Even with active masking on the projection screen, you are either masking out part of the projected image, or you have persistent visible bars either above/below, or to the sides of the movie image. Not so on the 77cx OLED. All that can be seen is the 16x9 image or 21x9 image floating in darkness. So, this makes for an incredibly impactful and immersive experience when the movie switches formats. As I said above... WOW

When I consider the warning about the reduction in image size adversely impacting the viewing experience, I found I was not at all distracted by the smaller image size. The raw image performance upgrade of OLED, over the very best I could squeeze out of the JVC x990, is nothing short of astonishing. THIS, even before I take a deep dive into fine tuning the calibration of the 77cx.

When I consider the cost the LG 77cx and accessories, what I have bought and sold trying to get better projection HDR performance, and what I was about to spend on a projector upgrade, it feels like I have dodged a bullet. And the money recouped and saved also paid for the 55cx in the family room as well as some new furniture, while also leaving significant $$$ left over for the future. ;)

I do not see anything affordable on the consumer projection horizon that can compete with the total experience of OLED. As we see even larger OLED panel sizes introduced in the price range of the LG CX series, the technology will only become a more compelling alternative to front projection.

I understand many of our projection friends will disagree and prefer to maximize presentation image size. Particularly those who have larger home theaters.

My wife shared her concerns early on in this transition. After watching Knives Out as our first film together on the 77cx, she is now a true believer. :)

Anyone with a desire to take their HT experience to the next level, the LG 77CX or other Big OLED TV, are viable alternatives worthy of your consideration.

Happy HT Trails

Ps... PS4 Pro gaming on the 77cx has also been an unbelievable upgrade. I am so looking forward to new games headed our way (Cyberpunk 2077, Mass Effect remaster) as well as replaying some older games.

Pss... as of the writing of this post, Disney and Marvel have made a significant announcements and commitment to OLED. Follow these links for more info.

Disney and Marvel throw weight behind OLED

Disney and Marvel to equip more production studios with OLED
 

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100% agree with the above, I struggled with the same decision for a LONG time and thought about getting a TV to replace my Epson 5040UB. It wasn't until I saw the 77" CX in Costco that absolutely blew me away, but I was still worried about going from 120" to 77". I echo what you say though about the picture quality blowing everything I've ever seen out of the water and can't wait to get my PS5 to pair with this TV.
 

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I too, was in the same camp. Had a 135" projector and a BenQ HT5550. The more I've used the 77" CX, the more I see what I've been missing! I'm still trying to figure out a dual-room solution, but lately am only using the projector for football Sundays with multiple games on screen. Content in Dolby Vision is amazing, I even noticed colors that the CX was able to display that my BenQ couldn't.

The difference in size is noticeable, but I don't feel that the 77" is "small". It is a couple feet off the wall and closer to our seating distance than the projector however.
 

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I've searched and searched for these answers but haven't found anything.y apologies if my Google skills have let me down.

Is it recommended to enable Freesync premium with Xbox One X (it's ALLM, right)

With HDR & DV, the OLED light goes to 100. Is that ok? I watch in a fairly dark room and have backed it off a bit. Some people I found recommended keeping it at 50 for both which is way too dark for my liking.

Yesterday, randomly, my PS4 Pro said that my HDCP connection to the tv was 1.4. Later on that evening, I went to watch Edge of Tomorrow through my Apple TV and it wouldn't play. The error said that my cables or devices do not support HDCP. I fooled around with everything, swapping cables, rebooting, everything I could think for 30 minutes before I just unplugged everything for a few minutes. Is this a known issue? I saw some others dealing with it randomly, but is it widespread?
Freesync is a version of VRR. Variable refresh rate. It allows the TV to match the refresh rate to the on screen action of a game. The TV can drop the refresh rate as low as 40hz so that there are no dropped frames, lower lag in the games, and no screen tearing to present the smoothest possible experience. It’s different than ALLM which is automatic low latency mode that offers the ability for a device to tell the TV to switch to game mode when a video game is detected. I would use both.

OLED light is set to 100 so that HDR content is able to present the video with the proper brightness levels for bright highlights.
 
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