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Neither does a fanciful claim that the 800T can be had for the same price as the 90T.
Please keep it on topic, if you don't have information to contribute or report relating to questions/findings then keep it in pm's, vs getting upset and assuming things ur more than welcome to PM about things, the question was based ON the fact of similar pricing which I was attempting to get information from owners that were lurking and those considering both sides. I didn't make a claim that people can go grab it for cheaper, I said I can GET it for the same price and that is the REASONING behind me grabbing one to test, since prior it was out of the price range, and since this isn't actually posting links or anything it doesn't adhere to ur statements (which if posted would go against the thread policy, which you're attempting to break for w/e reason vs the options above so I'm kindly reminding you of the reasons and giving you options since that's all you seem to be focused on for w/e reason ) I've asked this several times on the thread, and merely pointing out the direction I'm going w/ this now to see for myself since there is a lack of information at this point, so I"m attempting to fill that gap for anyone having similar questions ( similar to the person prior w/ the OLED / QLED ownership )
 

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Please keep it on topic, if you don't have information to contribute or report relating to questions/findings then keep it in pm's, vs getting upset and assuming things ur more than welcome to PM about things, the question was based ON the fact of similar pricing which I was attempting to get information from owners that were lurking and those considering both sides. I didn't make a claim that people can go grab it for cheaper, I said I can GET it for the same price and that is the REASONING behind me grabbing one to test, since prior it was out of the price range, and since this isn't actually posting links or anything it doesn't adhere to ur statements (which if posted would go against the thread policy, which you're attempting to break for w/e reason vs the options above so I'm kindly reminding you of the reasons and giving you options since that's all you seem to be focused on for w/e reason ) I've asked this several times on the thread, and merely pointing out the direction I'm going w/ this now to see for myself since there is a lack of information at this point, so I"m attempting to fill that gap for anyone having similar questions ( similar to the person prior w/ the OLED / QLED ownership )

Well then, I'm looking forward to your comparison.
 

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This is my first Samsung qled. I have a 85 inch Q95t. What is the best way to calibrate the tv for sport, gaming And Netflix.
 

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Those running Q soundbars, what configuration are you using for best sound? Currently running HDMI cable through HDMI Out on soundbar into ARC port on the TV. And is there a specific setting on the Xbox One X to better take advantage of the speakers?
 

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If I remember correctly, the Q90R made some changes to the ultrawide viewing angles filter in PC mode, is this true for the Q90T as well?

Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
 

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Unfortunately, Netflix HDR stuff really needs it though, way too dark and it’s not the TVs fault.
As well as Prime, Disney Plus, and other sources. I feel HDR is kind of broken all the way around, and I wish Samsung would have built more adjustment tools (like some other manufacturers) for us to better compensate for these issues.

On my Q90R, I typically have to crank the gamma up to 3, CH to high, and LD to high to compensate for the "way too dark" HDR titles.
 

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If I remember correctly, the Q90R made some changes to the ultrawide viewing angles filter in PC mode, is this true for the Q90T as well?
IRRC, I believe they turn off the "sub pixel rendering" in game mode. I don't think the Q90T panel even has the SPR feature built in, as I never see it mentioned.
 

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Hi everyone.

As I’m planning to buy both the PS5 and the Xbox Series X at the end of the year, and knowing that the Q95T has only one HDMI 2.1 port, I thought about how I can plug both the consoles at the same time as well as any future device that will be compatible with HDMI 2.1

The obvious answer is to you use either a switcher or a receiver/soundbar. Since I’m willing to buy a soundbar whenever a new one with multiple HDMI 2.1 IN ports and an HDMI 2.1 out will be available. Then I can connect the devices with the soundbar and then the soundbar with the TV.

My questions are :
1) Is the HDMI 2.0 eARC port the only way to connect a soundbar to the TV ? Or can I connect the soundbar to the TV through the TV’s HDMI 2.1 port (called gaming) ?
2) If I can do so through the HDMI 2.1 (gaming) port, will I be able to send 4K 120hz video from the soundbar to the TV and at the same time receive the audio from the TV to the soundbar ?

I hope to have an answer as early as possible.

Thanks everyone !
 

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IRRC, I believe they turn off the "sub pixel rendering" in game mode. I don't think the Q90T panel even has the SPR feature built in, as I never see it mentioned.

AFAIK, all Samsungs VA panels have subpixel rendering so I would be surprised if that had suddenly changed. The ability to turn it of though might have gone as so much else seem to have fron 2019 to 2020 4K models...
 

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Huge finding on the inverse ghosting front a way to play without game motion plus and no ghosting as well a way to play outside game mode with minimal lag, it all involves output settings on the Xbox One X.

I’ll be posting a detailed video about it hopefully by late tomorrow if you guys are still interested?

I don’t wanna get anyone’s hopes up so just know this is not going to allow you to play outputting 4K 60hz outside game motion plus.

You have to untick allow 4K (otherwise games will override it) in Xbox one x settings, set the console to 120hz 1080p you’ll have no ghosting also input lag seems to be a ton better too (outside game mode also try it out)

I know your thinking eww 1080p but this tv up scales 1080p so good it’s hard to notice the difference also keep in mind Xbox one x games are usually just 1440p upscale to 4K or 4K checkboarding. Try 1080p tweak some picture settings cause for whatever reason 1080p color is way off but once it’s fix it’s superb looking. I still love 4K 60hz with game motion plus but this is alternative for those that don’t want it. Also this gives me hope for hdmi 2.1 doing 4K 120hz with no ghosting.

BTW for those wondering my version in the back says FB03, it’s a 65 inch US version and I have inverse ghosting issues at 1080p 60hz and 4K 60hz. (Tested Xbox one x and Nintendo switch)
 

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Huge finding on the inverse ghosting front a way to play without game motion plus and no ghosting as well a way to play outside game mode with minimal lag, it all involves output settings on the Xbox One X.

I’ll be posting a detailed video about it hopefully by late tomorrow if you guys are still interested?

Yes, please post. Samsung also informed that they would patch this i read.
Strange is that some games do not have the issue. Like Seikiro or tetris.
Hopefully this all is solved with HDMI 2.1
 

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Ok, I am looking at both the Samsung 65 inch Q80T and Q90T for the replacement of my 5-year-old Sammy JU7100. Let me state I am NOT a gamer and have no interest in adding such features and cost to the device. Also, I am NOT interested in any enhanced internal audio features as everything will be routed through my Yamaha AVR, 4kATV and Atmos system. That being said is the 90T that much better in PQ and non-gaming functions to command a large step up in price? Would I just be paying for features not to be used? The bottom line for me is GREAT PQ for a reasonable price. Thanks for the input.
90T is the better set. Sometimes the more expensive model is not a whole lot better then the model below, in this case their is a difference.....
 
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