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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
You need to post two photos where the camera is perfectly level and centre of the screen.

If you tilt the camera like you have with the Kuro photo, you get perspective distortion, which makes a comparison impossible. Look how much bigger the top of your Kuro looks compared to the bottom.

But looking at both photos, they are showing identical images. If your Sony is bigger, then the image as a whole is bigger. I think you're the victim of an optical illusion.
 

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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
It seems like if you measured the active area of both displays, the H/W ratios would be different with the Kuro having higher H to W than the Sony.

Edit: also looks like the kuro isn't using the full width either, there's blank space on both horizontal ends.
 

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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
I don't see a difference.
 

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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
I cycled back and forth repeatably just focusing on her face and they are the same size. The only way the picture would be larger is if the picture is zoomed in on one of the TVs.
 

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So I got the A8H in. I'm coming from a projector that was 16fL with a fresh bulb so coming back to 30fL territory is :cool:

I faced my fears and looked at a 5% page. Compared to the numerous OLED phones and small displays I've done characterizations on for the last 15 years or so at work, this A8H is pleasantly acceptable. Kinda forms a very faint H with the middle bar only visible in peripheral vision. It's a keeper for me in that regard.

The combination of my Mac with my receiver doesn't want to let me choose a UHD resolution; limit is 1080P max. Connecting the Mac directly to the A8H does do UHD. PS4 Pro and Apple TV all do 4K/UHD through the prepro so the problem is unique to the Mac/Lexicon MC-10 interaction. EDID problems suck. Any suggestions besides the go to power everything down and bring up in sequence?
 

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I cycled back and forth repeatably just focusing on her face and they are the same size. The only way the picture would be larger is if the picture is zoomed in on one of the TVs.
Yes. I think it is an optical illusion of some sort, maybe having to do with the bezel on the KURO extending out further from the screen. But this, it would seem, would make the KURO image look smaller -- not larger. So I don't know. They look the same to me.
 

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Take this to another thread this is for A8H owners thread.
You’re correct. I bounce a lot between the A9G and the A8H threads and didn’t realize. Thx.
 

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Thanks for nothing on talking me down...A8H coming on the 4th to replace the Defective G I had. Still not sure if it’s the TV or the ATV, but not worth it to chance if I’m within the return policy.
 

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Query about how to setup separate SDR & HDR configurations for internal streaming and 4K Blu-ray player.

This is all based upon on BFI being beneficial for SDR (best turn it on) and not for HDR (best turn it off). So we need 2 settings for these formats (beyond just BFI).

How are folks dealing with the internal streaming apps sometimes emitting SDR and sometimes HDR (e.g Netflix on Android TV), likewise for 4K Blu-ray players whilst maintain two separate calibrations for SDR and HDR.

I recall reading earlier in the thread that the recommendation was to configure one HDMI input for SDR and another for HDR. Is Android TV just an overlay on-top of any HDMI input? If so, that makes sense.

However my AVR only has 1 output, hence for my 4K Blu-ray player, which HDMI input do I assign it to, the SDR or HDR one? I need both depending on the disk playing. My brain can't figure this out.

Can a single HDMI input have 2 calibrated profiles assigned to it which are easily switchable? I suspect not?

So what are folks doing about this issue of separate SDR and HDR settings especially for 4K Blu-ray players.

I would hate to be forced to fiddle picture settings every time I switch between an SDR and HDR disk.

Help?
 

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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
I noted that BOTH pics/panels show virtually stinking identical on color ! My Panasonic plasma has numerous "sizings." "Just", "Full", etc. and they are very close. Is it possible that these two different panels are simply slightly sized differently or you have one on a slightly different "sizing"??
 

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I noted that BOTH pics/panels show virtually stinking identical on color ! My Panasonic plasma has numerous "sizings." "Just", "Full", etc. and they are very close. Is it possible that these two different panels are simply slightly sized differently or you have one on a slightly different "sizing"??
*This will be my last response since I didn’t realize that this should be in the A9G or some other thread.

Colors are amazingly similarly. Both sets were calibrated by Jeff Meier but 4 years apart from each other.

Overscan was turned off for both sets. You can tell by looking all around the edges of the images I posted . Both sets are same.
 

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Query about how to setup separate SDR & HDR configurations for internal streaming and 4K Blu-ray player.

This is all based upon on BFI being beneficial for SDR (best turn it on) and not for HDR (best turn it off). So we need 2 settings for these formats (beyond just BFI).

How are folks dealing with the internal streaming apps sometimes emitting SDR and sometimes HDR (e.g Netflix on Android TV), likewise for 4K Blu-ray players whilst maintain two separate calibrations for SDR and HDR.

I recall reading earlier in the thread that the recommendation was to configure one HDMI input for SDR and another for HDR. Is Android TV just an overlay on-top of any HDMI input? If so, that makes sense.

However my AVR only has 1 output, hence for my 4K Blu-ray player, which HDMI input do I assign it to, the SDR or HDR one? I need both depending on the disk playing. My brain can't figure this out.

Can a single HDMI input have 2 calibrated profiles assigned to it which are easily switchable? I suspect not?

So what are folks doing about this issue of separate SDR and HDR settings especially for 4K Blu-ray players.

I would hate to be forced to fiddle picture settings every time I switch between an SDR and HDR disk.

Help?
In general folks use AVR passthrough which means that all AVR picture related processing needs to be turned off. If it is a 4K HDR capable AVR i guess it will passthrough everything up to 4K HDR. The TVs HDMI goes to the Output AVR. Inputs AVR goes to receivers..each of those inputs can get its own settings in TVs menu. So using a SDR receiver in a input and a HDR receiver in another input with their own settings would work, also changing from one set of settings to another set of settings would be an option. Sony used to have stuff like THEATRE button on remote control for a specific set of settings.

In the past there was stuff like DVDs and Blu-rays playback on Blu-ray receivers which was a similar problem. I rarely read about it...
 

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Here’s a quick shot of an image from both TVs at a measured 7’ away. The image on the left is the 65” A9G and on the right is the Kuro 60” plasma. Even though the images don’t 100% show the differences, you can still see her head is larger on the Kuro 60”. Easier to see if viewed on something larger than a cell phone.
I'd take that Sony over the Kuro based on those 2 ... crisper IMO.
 

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This is another instance where I miss a comprehensive manual. The A8H comes with 3 USB ports, and I believe all remain on even when the TV is off. I think they have an on/off cycle they may or may not go through, but they never turn fully off. Is this correct? Thanks.
 

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I think they have an on/off cycle they may or may not go through, but they never turn fully off. Is this correct? Thanks.
Correct. Sony Bravia TVs (continuing for years now) turn the USB port on and off every 10 seconds when the TV is turned off.
 

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In general folks use AVR passthrough which means that all AVR picture related processing needs to be turned off. If it is a 4K HDR capable AVR i guess it will passthrough everything up to 4K HDR. The TVs HDMI goes to the Output AVR. Inputs AVR goes to receivers..each of those inputs can get its own settings in TVs menu. So using a SDR receiver in a input and a HDR receiver in another input with their own settings would work, also changing from one set of settings to another set of settings would be an option. Sony used to have stuff like THEATRE button on remote control for a specific set of settings.

In the past there was stuff like DVDs and Blu-rays playback on Blu-ray receivers which was a similar problem. I rarely read about it...
If I understand you correctly your suggestion appears to be to connect devices directly to the TV then use audio-return-channel to route sound back to the AVR?

Then assign different picture settings per connected device? BFI to the SDR sources and not-BFI to HDR sources.

But how do folks deal with a single SDR & HDR device such as OPPO 203 4K player which can emit HDR or SDR? If I have HDMI-1 for SDR sources and HDMI-2 for HDR sources which do I connect the OPPO to? It needs to be connected to both depending on the disk being played.

This all started when I read this post:

I always try to recommend for my clients to send SDR content to one input and HDR to another whenever possible. There are a few settings that only are beneficial to SDR that you either change or lose out on when everything runs through one input. This recommendation is regardless of TV brand.
If my AVR had dual outputs I could figure this out.
But it only has one ouput.

It seems to me that to solve this BFI-only-for-SDR (but not-for-HDR) issue I need to assign all SDR sources to one HDMI input and all HDR sources to another HDMI input.

Since my OPPO 203 only has a single video output, same for my AVR, the only way to solve this would be to treat the 203 as a SDR only device and then purchase another 4K player and connect it to the HDMI input with HDR settings?

Or am I missing something very obvious here?

Can I define SDR & HDR setting for a picture mode AND then quickly flick between those modes on the remote? My understaning is that won't work since BFI is a universal setting independent of picture mode?

Question about Android TV streaming on the TV, is it an overlay that can run on any HDMI input? So if I am on HDMI-1 (SDR settings) I can run Sony's Android TV in SDR mode, whilst if I flick to HDMI-2 (HDR settings) and can stream HDR content correctly? Currently I have a Panasonic plasma with no smart system, so I am not sure how inbuilt streaming works, whether it is a separate input or an overlay on any input.

I quickly looked at HDMI splitters, and it looks a mess.

Help?
 

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If I understand you correctly your suggestion appears to be to connect devices directly to the TV then use audio-return-channel to route sound back to the AVR?
A AVR is for interconnect and audio. A AVR in general has one HDMI output (MONITOR OUT) because that is all you need. One connects it to the TVs HDMI input. Stuff like satellite receiver, UHD player etc... one connects to AVR HDMI 1/HDMI 2 etc... inputs. On the TV you can give those their own settings that is why you only need one AVR HDMI output. If you want a AVR with a few HDMI outputs those are for sale. If you own a AVR with only one HDMI input, i suggest you buy a AVR with several HDMI inputs. Also TVs these days are capable to have seperate SDR and HDR settings in one single picture mode.

Incase stuff like BFI applies to all inputs then your only option is to turn it on/off each time you switch between SDR/HDR content. In case BFI can be set per input but not on one specific input then you can chose between using two devices, one for SDR and another for HDR, or turning BFI on/off each time you switch between SDR and HDR.

I would not reconnect HDMI cable each time you switch between SDR and HDR. Don't go there!
 

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I've owned my 65" Panny GT30 since 2012, and I had my mind set on a larger screen (75" min.) for my next purchase. Really, my 20Lx16W entertainment room called for it. But when I went looking last year, the prices were higher than I was willing to spend, but more importantly, I also had a lot of misgivings about the technology. The number of posts on this forum and other places reporting problems caused me to think twice about buying the larger screen at this time. So, I went for the 65". I still have concerns about potential problems, but after looking at the LG line for the vast majority of the time, and with the arrival of the A8H, I went with the Sony because I saw far fewer complaints than I did with the LG line. While they all have pluses and minuses, I feel more comfortable with my decision. Maybe the next time I'll get that larger screen I've been dreaming about.

I've included a couple of pics.
 

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