AVS Forum banner

2101 - 2120 of 2212 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
Switching the FiosTV One DVR box with the mini box from another room seems to have resolved the problem with the display changing to 480p. Will monitor and let everyone know in a week
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
536 Posts
I'm new to the HT/Audio world and tomorrow I'll be adding a subwoofer to my newly built system. I've been reading these forums for many hours over the last few nights, particularly this Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
yet can't find exact answers to a few things. ( I'm sure I missed it )

1. It's my understanding that you want to set the gain levels on your subwoofer so that upon calibration, the AVR sets a sub trim level of - 9 or -10, which gives you headroom to adjust up to - 5 as needed.. but MY Yamaha receiver only goes down to - 6, so I was going to shoot for calibrated - 6 and then adjust to -3 ( not going higher than -3 ) .. or is there a better way to do this?

2. If i go into settings --> Speaker --> Level. I have control over the output level of all my speakers, so should I leave the trim alone at -5 and add +Db to my subwoofer from here? what's the difference between this setting and the trim level setting?

3. Under configuration I have " Extra Bass " option, is this safe to use? or is this Yamahas version of LFE + Main? which is ill-advised.

Again I'm new to all of this, I would love for some of you experts to weigh in on the matter.


My system currently.
  • Yamaha TSR-700 ( Costco version of the RX-V6A )
  • Polk Audio Signature S60 fronts
  • Polk S30 Center
  • Polk HTS 12 inch Subwoofer
( I know I know.. SVS Sub.. But I got this sexy looking guy for $ 220 Open box from Adorama :) )

Thanks.
Hello and welcome. Full disclosure, I do not own this AVR but I am helping a friend with his. My own set up is a 7.4.4 system with 4 SVS subs and the Andrew Jones designed Pioneer Elite speakers and Pioneer Elite SC-99 AVR. Nonetheless I've spent enough time around gear to answer some of your questions.;)

1. the goal of the subwoofer to integrate with your speakers in a manner that it makes the speakers seem like bigger speakers ( but not sound like small speakers plus a subwoofer). When it is properly setup, the subwoofer should not be localizable, if you can tell where the subwoofer is located, then it is not properly set up. This means that the volume and crossover of the sub(s) should transition well from sub to speakers. When you first setup the system you want have the sub's gain knob set to around 50% ( loud enough for the calibration mic to detect it). Once the auto calibration runs it's course, you will want to check where the sub channel gain level of the AVR was set. if it is in the (-) range but not at the max (-) then you will be ok. If instead it is at a (+) level, then that means you need to turn up the gain knob on the sub. The goal is to have enough headroom in the AVR gain setting to allow the sub to play at a good dynamic range. This means that when you turn up your system to enjoy a movie, the AVR has enough room in the gain to push the sub without it capping out. If the gain level in the AVR is in the (+) range, that means it is already close to capping out, that is why you want to have the result be on the negative side.

2. see above reply.

3. Extra bass is the same as LFE+Main. There is some debate about this feature, but as you mentioned, it is I'll advised (especially for movies). Here are two (there are more) quick reasons why this is ill advised: First, If your speakers don't have the proper design and capability, you will be asking them to work outside of their efficiency range. The AVR will also strain since it will have to put out more power to try to reproduce those lower frequencies. That can lead to overdriving the AVR and possibly clipping. Second, when you properly place and subsequently time align a sub(s), you get consistent bass at all time because it is coming from one source. But when you have the subs and/or Mains switching lower frequency duties, the bass can end up being inconsistent from scene to scene. Therefore, if you have a competent subwoofer in your setup, it is best to allow it to do the heavy lifting when it comes to lower bass frequencies, so that your speakers and AVR are then allowed to work without strain, which will lead to a cleaner sound.

Good luck with your setup. I hope you get the best out of it. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
I have parsed through this thread but not have been able to find a solution for the forced “TV Input” problem using a Samsung UN55JS8500 and a One Connect Mini.
  1. Harmony settings for the Samsung are Input HDMI 4 (with HDMI 1, HDMI 4 active). This is the only setting that worked.
  2. As suggested in this thread, I changed Scene 1 to TV watching with these settings: HDM Control <Enable> and Input <Enable> and used this as the Yamaha input. (The Harmony can only select Inputs 1-4.)
48 seconds after the Harmony turns the system on correctly, the Samsung will force the Yamaha to switch to the TV input.

If I turn off Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) Control on the Samsung, I can no longer control volume with my TiVo remote (used by my better half), but it does avoid the TV input problem.

If I change HDM Control to <Disable> in the Yamaha’s Scene 1 settings, it predictably still switches to TV input because it’s the Samsung that is sending the offending command.

Any ideas? 🤔
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Does anyone has tried connecting Boss Bluetooth wireless head phone to this AVR? if you did, will you please explain step by step how to do this. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Dolby Surround or DTS Neural:X.
Think you're right.
Setting Surround Decode to Auto, letting it decide between Dolby Surround and DTS NeuralX, seems to work well.
From what I can hear, expansion from 5.1.0 to 5.1.2 is clean for both. According to the Dolby website they've upgraded Dolby Surround to provide support for non-Atmos 5.1.0 tracks when played on 5.1.2 systems. Guess DTS has done the same. And even when playing Dolby Atmos blurays, all 5.1.2 channels seem to be passed thru without issue. IOW Surround Decode Auto sounds as good as Straight Decode from what I can tell.

Also went back to my cd collection and compared Surround Decode Auto (Dolby Surround by default) to All Channel Stereo (my previous favourite) and think I'm hearing a better instrument separation with Dolby.

But making comparisons are difficult because volume levels can change when switching. Maybe I'll change my mind next week. o_O
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Hi, I’m new here, I got tsr-700 from Costco and connect it with Apple TV 4K.
I found CEC/HDMI has problem, in most of cases, I use Apple TV remote controller to wake up Apple TV, the receiver won’t wake up, then I manually turn on the receiver, the display shows device name “Player”. There is no sound at all, but I have video.
I have to go to receiver menu, turn off HDMI control and turn it on again, then the sound is back and I can use Apple TV remote controller to tune the volume and turn off receiver with Apple TV.
It’s very annoying, is it a known issue? Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
54 Posts
I have parsed through this thread but not have been able to find a solution for the forced “TV Input” problem using a Samsung UN55JS8500 and a One Connect Mini.
  1. Harmony settings for the Samsung are Input HDMI 4 (with HDMI 1, HDMI 4 active). This is the only setting that worked.
  2. As suggested in this thread, I changed Scene 1 to TV watching with these settings: HDM Control <Enable> and Input <Enable> and used this as the Yamaha input. (The Harmony can only select Inputs 1-4.)
48 seconds after the Harmony turns the system on correctly, the Samsung will force the Yamaha to switch to the TV input.

If I turn off Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) Control on the Samsung, I can no longer control volume with my TiVo remote (used by my better half), but it does avoid the TV input problem.

If I change HDM Control to <Disable> in the Yamaha’s Scene 1 settings, it predictably still switches to TV input because it’s the Samsung that is sending the offending command.

Any ideas? 🤔
Honestly, that sounds like an HDMI CEC issue. I'm experiencing the same situation with Harmony, where I'm fine controlling everything through the phone app, but the SO likes using the physical remote, so I still have CEC on, and it messes with certain activities. From what I've heard, its best to just turn off CEC and just use Harmony entirely (I just have the hub, should probably get physical Elite remote or something)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
65 Posts
From what I've heard, its best to just turn off CEC and just use Harmony entirely (I just have the hub, should probably get physical Elite remote or something)
Thats exactly what I did. Works great. Except this receiver still has a mind of its own and switches back toMy Fios box.
 

·
Registered
55" LG CX, Yamaha TSR-700, Mirage Nanosat and Yamaha VXS1MLW in 5.1.2
Joined
·
29 Posts
Thats exactly what I did. Works great. Except this receiver still has a mind of its own and switches back toMy Fios box.
Sounds like the Fios box has HDMI-CEC enabled? You should be able to disable it in its settings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
I have parsed through this thread but not have been able to find a solution for the forced “TV Input” problem using a Samsung UN55JS8500 and a One Connect Mini.
  1. Harmony settings for the Samsung are Input HDMI 4 (with HDMI 1, HDMI 4 active). This is the only setting that worked.
  2. As suggested in this thread, I changed Scene 1 to TV watching with these settings: HDM Control <Enable> and Input <Enable> and used this as the Yamaha input. (The Harmony can only select Inputs 1-4.)
48 seconds after the Harmony turns the system on correctly, the Samsung will force the Yamaha to switch to the TV input.

If I turn off Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) Control on the Samsung, I can no longer control volume with my TiVo remote (used by my better half), but it does avoid the TV input problem.

If I change HDM Control to <Disable> in the Yamaha’s Scene 1 settings, it predictably still switches to TV input because it’s the Samsung that is sending the offending command.

Any ideas? 🤔
I had this problem with my LG CX. When I powered everything on the Yamaha switched to TV input when I wanted the cable box. I turned on standby sync in the Yamaha menu and the problem stopped. Occasionally the receiver doesn’t turn on depending on what remote I use but the automatic switching to the tv input has stopped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
686 Posts
I have parsed through this thread but not have been able to find a solution for the forced “TV Input” problem using a Samsung UN55JS8500 and a One Connect Mini.
  1. Harmony settings for the Samsung are Input HDMI 4 (with HDMI 1, HDMI 4 active). This is the only setting that worked.
  2. As suggested in this thread, I changed Scene 1 to TV watching with these settings: HDM Control <Enable> and Input <Enable> and used this as the Yamaha input. (The Harmony can only select Inputs 1-4.)
48 seconds after the Harmony turns the system on correctly, the Samsung will force the Yamaha to switch to the TV input.

If I turn off Anynet+ (HDMI-CEC) Control on the Samsung, I can no longer control volume with my TiVo remote (used by my better half), but it does avoid the TV input problem.

If I change HDM Control to <Disable> in the Yamaha’s Scene 1 settings, it predictably still switches to TV input because it’s the Samsung that is sending the offending command.

Any ideas? 🤔
My Harmony is showing all 7 inputs for the receiver when I set up an activity. I agree though that it's CEC that's causing the problem. I don't know why turning off CEC on the Samsung would affect the volume control on the TiVo remote. I don't have CEC activated on either of my two TVs and the remotes for my TiVo Bolt and Premiere both still control the TV volume. The volume control on TiVo remotes is set up by selecting the TV brand remote code and I believe has worked since before CEC became a feature on TVs.

You can of course add (under "Customize this Activity") a 50-second delay to the start up of your Harmony activity followed by the command for the input you want, but I personally wouldn't want to wait that long for an activity to start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I'm new to the HT/Audio world and tomorrow I'll be adding a subwoofer to my newly built system. I've been reading these forums for many hours over the last few nights, particularly this Guide to Subwoofer Calibration and Bass Preferences
yet can't find exact answers to a few things. ( I'm sure I missed it )

1. It's my understanding that you want to set the gain levels on your subwoofer so that upon calibration, the AVR sets a sub trim level of - 9 or -10, which gives you headroom to adjust up to - 5 as needed.. but MY Yamaha receiver only goes down to - 6, so I was going to shoot for calibrated - 6 and then adjust to -3 ( not going higher than -3 ) .. or is there a better way to do this?

2. If i go into settings --> Speaker --> Level. I have control over the output level of all my speakers, so should I leave the trim alone at -5 and add +Db to my subwoofer from here? what's the difference between this setting and the trim level setting?

3. Under configuration I have " Extra Bass " option, is this safe to use? or is this Yamahas version of LFE + Main? which is ill-advised.

Again I'm new to all of this, I would love for some of you experts to weigh in on the matter.


My system currently.
  • Yamaha TSR-700 ( Costco version of the RX-V6A )
  • Polk Audio Signature S60 fronts
  • Polk S30 Center
  • Polk HTS 12 inch Subwoofer
( I know I know.. SVS Sub.. But I got this sexy looking guy for $ 220 Open box from Adorama :) )

Thanks.
Thanks for that link. Incredible amount of info there. (have only read a bit).

He does suggest that the powered subwoofer's internal gain be set so that after calibration on Yamaha the Setup/Speaker/Level is about -9.5 (-10 is the min) giving lots of headroom for a +3 adjust.

That's what I just did and it seems to be working well with some Bach organ music.

Dunno what Option/Volume Trim/Subwoofer Trim is about. I've left mine at zero. And have not felt the need for Extra Bass so far.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
Just for fun, ran REW with and without "extra bass". Blue is extra bass, red is without.Speakers are Ohm 5015, which have subwoofers in their base.
This is with speakers set to "large".
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: brulaz

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
This one, orange is speaker set to "small", crossover 60 hz.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: brulaz

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I have a few questions.. anyway to get on screen volume with Apple TV 4K Dolby. My setup is lg cx Oled and kef speakers.
Next I have outdoor speakers connected with unpowered and I want airplay to default to zone 2 every time? Is that possible? The app is difficult to use compared to my older onkyo.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
Honestly, that sounds like an HDMI CEC issue. I'm experiencing the same situation with Harmony, where I'm fine controlling everything through the phone app, but the SO likes using the physical remote, so I still have CEC on, and it messes with certain activities. From what I've heard, its best to just turn off CEC and just use Harmony entirely (I just have the hub, should probably get physical Elite remote or something)
Turning off CEC all-together did fix the problem, but here’s why I went back to using the Samsung One Connect Mini with Yamaha HDMI control and Samsung Anynet+ turned on:
  1. Default “TV” input now works correctly
  2. So, I deleted the extra Harmony step that chose Scene 1, which selected HDMI 2 STB-connected TiVo.
Two observations:
The Samsung One Connect Mini supports HDR on the ATV4K without any need to change settings, the Yamaha does not. Irritating. I know others have noted that this can be fixed by screwing with settings, BUT:

Content looks less soft when signals are directly routed to the Samsung, even with the Yamaha’s 4K upscaling turned on. Another disappointment. I hope a fix will address these two shortcomings. 😏
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
862 Posts
Thanks for that link. Incredible amount of info there. (have only read a bit).

He does suggest that the powered subwoofer's internal gain be set so that after calibration on Yamaha the Setup/Speaker/Level is about -9.5 (-10 is the min) giving lots of headroom for a +3 adjust.

That's what I just did and it seems to be working well with some Bach organ music.

Dunno what Option/Volume Trim/Subwoofer Trim is about. I've left mine at zero. And have not felt the need for Extra Bass so far.
As Weldun stated above, extra bass is the misleading name for subwoofer + main for bass; depending on your speaker set up this may or may not improve your frequency response.
For my Ohm 5015's, they work better with this setting on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
I had this problem with my LG CX. When I powered everything on the Yamaha switched to TV input when I wanted the cable box. I turned on standby sync in the Yamaha menu and the problem stopped. Occasionally the receiver doesn’t turn on depending on what remote I use but the automatic switching to the tv input has stopped.
I tried all three settings: Off, On and Auto and the result was the same. According to the manual, "Standby Sync sets the unit to standby mode when the TV is turned off." I don't see how this would influence CEC. 🤔
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
413 Posts
My Harmony is showing all 7 inputs for the receiver when I set up an activity. I agree though that it's CEC that's causing the problem. I don't know why turning off CEC on the Samsung would affect the volume control on the TiVo remote. I don't have CEC activated on either of my two TVs and the remotes for my TiVo Bolt and Premiere both still control the TV volume. The volume control on TiVo remotes is set up by selecting the TV brand remote code and I believe has worked since before CEC became a feature on TVs.

You can of course add (under "Customize this Activity") a 50-second delay to the start up of your Harmony activity followed by the command for the input you want, but I personally wouldn't want to wait that long for an activity to start.
Exactly, that's way too long to wait and user unfriendly. The TiVo remote is programmed to control the Yamaha's volume and mute functions. I'm guessing that without Anynet+ turned on, the Samsung TV does not pass the command on to the Yamaha.
 
2101 - 2120 of 2212 Posts
Top