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Lost all settings and Internet connection is flaky. Over the weekend we had a power outage, just a flicker. I just noticed that all my settings are gone, and my internet connection to the receiver is flaky. It says "completed" on connecting to WiFi, but then when I go out of that menu and go back it's like it is not connected, Music cast cant connect either. Can't get on internet to do a restore either. Anyone have similar experience? Suggestions? besides returning the unit? Yamaha RX-V6A.

Thanks for any intel
 

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Lost all settings and Internet connection is flaky. Over the weekend we had a power outage, just a flicker. I just noticed that all my settings are gone, and my internet connection to the receiver is flaky. It says "completed" on connecting to WiFi, but then when I go out of that menu and go back it's like it is not connected, Music cast cant connect either. Can't get on internet to do a restore either. Yamaha RX-V6A.

Thanks for any intel
Sorry to hear about that. I highly recommend that all valued electronics be connected via a reliable uninterruptible power supply (UPS). My preferred brand is Cyberpower, but there are others as well that are well regarded, such as APC and Tripp Lite.

You might want to try the factory reset procedure that I mentioned in my previous reply to another poster ("Setup" > "Function" > "Initialization" > "All" in the case of the RX-V6A). If you had saved your previous settings, you can then restore them after the reset.

OTOH, if the power outage caused damage to the AVR's circuitry your only real recourse is going to be a warranty repair.
 

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I just got the TSR-700 and have used it for a few days with no issues. It’s a lot to get used to coming from a budget Denon but I like it more and more as I get used to how Yamaha does things. I don’t use ARC so no issues there.
Today, I received a Parasound NewClassic 200 Integrated amp, which I was going to use in Home Theater Bypass mode for L/R/Sub when using sources on the Yamaha. The preouts were actually my whole reason for getting the Yamaha. However, I find that when switching sources on the AVR or even while I have a source playing sometimes, I get a fairly loud pop/thump in the right channel only. I called Parasound and they thought it was probably one of the HDMI sources on the Yamaha causing the problem. I didn’t have this issue when I had the Yamaha on its own. Has anyone else had this issue with the preouts? I feel like it’s probably not the Parasound since it’s just sending along whatever it gets from the preouts. It sounds great on its own and doesn’t have any issues with sources directly connected to it.
 

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Has anyone been able to watch any Dolby Vision content through the TSR-700? I just got mine today and tried playing Dolby Vision content from Netflix and Disney+ using my 2019 Shield TV. It will start playing and the Dolby Vision badge will show up on my TV but there's just a black screen with the audio playing as normal from the receiver. It doesn't seem to be a Shield issue since it works fine if I plug the Shield directly into my TV's HDMI port.
Had same issue and called Yamaha. Waiting for level tech to call back.

I did figure a way to temp fix this by turning off HDMI control off. When I do this I can play Dolby vision via Firestick 4k which is plugged into TSR-700. No more black screen/no video.
 

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Had same issue and called Yamaha. Waiting for level tech to call back.

I did figure a way to temp fix this by turning off HDMI control off. When I do this I can play Dolby vision via Firestick 4k which is plugged into TSR-700. No more black screen/no video.
I ran everything to the TV and use eARC for the audio
 

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Had same issue and called Yamaha. Waiting for level tech to call back.

I did figure a way to temp fix this by turning off HDMI control off. When I do this I can play Dolby vision via Firestick 4k which is plugged into TSR-700. No more black screen/no video.
I ran everything to the TV and use eARC for the audio
I’m asking if anyone does. I do not.
Oh I see that. Sorry missed the second question mark
 

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If I understand correctly, you have all seven of your external devices connected via HDMI to the AVR and the only connection between display and AVR is the one HDMI cable in the designated ARC/eARC port on each device?

My first question is why you need to use ARC in the first place. Can you not access those same apps on one or more of your other external devices? Or is it more a matter of wanting to ensure that you can take full advantage of the advertised features of this AVR (which is my own OCD-directed position) or a desire for redundancy of streaming app access?



When the AVR displays "Decoder Off" it is simply indicating the absence of an input audio signal, so there will naturally be no sound produced through the attached speakers. This can mean that there was an interruption or pause in the audio and does not necessarily indicate a connection problem.



I am not sure what you mean by this. Is the AVR conveying the TV audio over digital optical or simply showing this input (Audio1) as the current setting?



I suspect that the issue lies with your TV, but since I have no experience with LG displays I can not offer any suggestions on that end except to point out that each CEM implements CEC a bit differently on their models and that some are more quirky than others in combination with gear from other manufacturers. The ARC/eARC functionality itself can be hinky to the extent that some experienced troubleshooters have long suggested that if ARC is not working consistently, the user should simply revert to relying on a digital optical (Toslink) connection instead. Have you experimented to see whether Toslink works for you?

In my case, using a Sony XBR-55X950G display, I have found eARC to be mostly reliable. Occasionally I have had to reboot the TV to get the audio back to the AVR and in at least one case--that being a DTS:X stream in an .MKV file--I have been unable to get it to work at all. I can get the same DTS:X files to play back on my TSR-700 over an HDMI external input (e.g., on a BDP) whether streamed from my networked PC or on a USB thumbdrive in the BDP (see photos 1 and 2 below), but neither means works over eARC from the TV. At the same time, I have no problem with Dolby Atmos playback over eARC (see photos 3 and 4 below) so it is not a bandwidth issue. Since I do not typically rely on the TV for anything other than as a video display, my only real concern is OCD-related as mentioned above.

It could well be that the Yamaha's eARC processing is in need of debugging, and if that is the case, there is no way we users can address the deficiencies. One other quirk that I have encountered is that every so often shortly after launching a Scene for some reason the AVR will revert to a different input (in my case it has always been the Amazon Fire TV Stick 4K on HDMI3). So if you are not getting the expected video or audio, you might want to double-check whether the input has changed.

Otherwise, you can try tinkering with the settings on your LG TV, resetting the HDMI connections, rebooting devices, et al. It goes without saying that you should ensure that your cables are up to snuff; at the very least they should all be Premium High Speed Certified or Ultra High Speed Certified and, if at all possible, none should be longer than 15 feet at the maximum with six feet being optimal. Unless the cables you are using carry the HDMI.org's certification you can not be certain that they meet the specification standards. And even then, cables can go bad or, in very rare cases, have manufacturing defects. It is also essential to ensure that they are properly seated at both ends and that the pins have not been bent. One rather elementary troubleshooting step in this regard is to unplug each cable (after having powered down the components) and reverse the ends while visually inspecting the plugs and ensuring a tight fit in the port. I am not implying that your issue to due to the cabling, but that is a factor that can not be ruled out entirely.



Again, I'm sure sure what you mean by this. Are you saying that you can not enable ARC from the Setup menu ("HDMI" > "ARC" > "On") or that you are not getting the return audio to convey? If ARC is no longer working at all for you, you might want to resort to a factory reset of the AVR ("Settings" > "Initialization" > "All Initialization"). You can save your current savings first to a USB thumbdrive and then restore them after the initialization.

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Thanks for the reply...

Resident apps on the TV yield the highest quality video, not hindered by bandwidth and signaling limitations of the STB to the TV. So, this is why Arc is important. It’s not OCD for the most part (well...just a little! Lol!)

also..Toslink optical does not support Atmos and DD+.

thanks for the tip about reinitialization! I will give this a try! Jim.
 

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Hi guys, recent owner of V4A here and of course I have ARC issues (weird issues).

The ARC works allright, Samsung TV controls receiver power and outputs DD or DD+ if available, all is ok.

However, it only works for one day :)) The next morning, when I turn on, receiver says Decoder Off and there is no sound from the TV.

So I know this sounds ridiculous, but I have tested this 4 days straight: when I go to bed everything works ok (I test it by turning all off and then back on), but in the morning it does not work :)

Disabling and re-enabling the ARC option in the receiver solves it, but this is unacceptable....

So, did anyone have this kind of problem and if yes, did you find a solution? I could not find anything similar here, but it is a long topic so appologies if already discussed.

both the receiver and the TV have the latest firmware (1.31 for the yamaha)

Neither device is unplugged etc during the night, so i's weird that I get these handshake issues in the morning.

receiver configuration:
HDMI control = ON
Standby through = AUTO
ARC=ON
Standby Sync = AUTO
4K Upscaling = OFF

thank you
 

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Thanks for the reply...

Resident apps on the TV yield the highest quality video, not hindered by bandwidth and signaling limitations of the STB to the TV. So, this is why Arc is important. It’s not OCD for the most part (well...just a little! Lol!)

also..Toslink optical does not support Atmos and DD+.

thanks for the tip about reinitialization! I will give this a try! Jim.
Agreed, Netflix, amazon prime video etc... All look better on my LG C9's internal apps, I have it wired with cat6 fwiw. Fortunately eARC has worked flawlessly with the TSR 700 for me
 

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Thanks for the reply...

Resident apps on the TV yield the highest quality video, not hindered by bandwidth and signaling limitations of the STB to the TV. So, this is why Arc is important. It’s not OCD for the most part (well...just a little! Lol!)

also..Toslink optical does not support Atmos and DD+.

thanks for the tip about reinitialization! I will give this a try! Jim.
Several of the external devices you have connected to your AVR's HDMI inputs also provide streaming apps. Why are you not using them for this purpose?

I have no experience with LG displays but I find it hard to believe that their internal apps have any special sauce that would improve the video quality over the same app streaming via the AVR.

If none of your current devices are up to snuff you could replace one of them with something better and/or more up to date for a relatively small outlay. For example, if you subscribe to Netflix, the "Chromecast with Google TV and Netflix bundle" costs just $6.05 (plus sales tax) net once you factor in the bundled $83.94 Netflix credits that come with the $89.99 purchase price. And if you wanted to retain all of your current devices you could even add an HDMI switch to allow you to augment the HDMI inputs on your AVR which you say are all occupied at present.

Finally, here's another troubleshooting tip that has sometimes worked for me in resolving HDMI syncing problems: A cold boot of the TV. If you are not getting the audio from the display to the AVR via ARC, turn off the TV and unplug it from the AC outlet, wait about 30 seconds, then plug it back in and turn it back on. If that measure restores the audio it might not resolve the problem permanently, but it should be an indication that the issue resides in the TV's failure to properly negotiate the HDMI syncing protocol.
 

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Several of the external devices you have connected to your AVR's HDMI inputs also provide streaming apps. Why are you not using them for this purpose?

I have no experience with LG displays but I find it hard to believe that their internal apps have any special sauce that would improve the video quality over the same app streaming via the AVR.
LGs internal apps are all top notch and often are better than chromecast apps in terms of dolby vision and dolby atmos support, last i checked Chromecast with Google tv didn't support Disney+ in dolby vision and atmos, i don't think there's any lg app that has less than the best available from that platform.The place Chromecast is better is in overall app quantity, the big missing one on LG is HBO Max, which supposedly has an exclusive with Samsung for tv manufacturer specific app. Shield gets a leg up cause it can decode lossless audio from mkvs, but the YouTube on that isn't HDR and Hulu isn't in 4k.
 

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LGs internal apps are all top notch and often are better than chromecast apps in terms of dolby vision and dolby atmos support, last i checked Chromecast with Google tv didn't support Disney+ in dolby vision and atmos, i don't think there's any lg app that is worse than Chromecasts version.The place Chromecast is better is in overall apps, the big missing one on LG is HBO Max, which supposedly has an exclusive with Samsung for tv manufacturer specific app.
They really aren’t.

TV’s, dongles and sticks are all in the underwhelming and underpowered camp, for the most part, so comparing them is somewhat futile.

Once someone has used a truly dedicated and powerful streaming box, like an ATV or Shield, etc, there is no comparison when coming from apps on a TV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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They really aren’t.

TV’s, dongles and sticks are all in the underwhelming and underpowered camp, for the most part, so comparing them is somewhat futile.

Once someone has used a truly dedicated and powerful streaming box, like an ATV or Shield, etc, there is no comparison when coming from apps on a TV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Love the LG apps compared to any tv, Apple TV, Samsung tv apps. Been thoroughly impressed with the LG coming from a high end 2015 Samsung. LG is a streaming beast. Beautiful picture while streaming and audio is awesom. Some lip sync issues with hulu but not in any other apps.
 

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Hi guys, recent owner of V4A here and of course I have ARC issues (weird issues).

The ARC works allright, Samsung TV controls receiver power and outputs DD or DD+ if available, all is ok.

However, it only works for one day :)) The next morning, when I turn on, receiver says Decoder Off and there is no sound from the TV.

So I know this sounds ridiculous, but I have tested this 4 days straight: when I go to bed everything works ok (I test it by turning all off and then back on), but in the morning it does not work :)

Disabling and re-enabling the ARC option in the receiver solves it, but this is unacceptable....

So, did anyone have this kind of problem and if yes, did you find a solution? I could not find anything similar here, but it is a long topic so appologies if already discussed.

both the receiver and the TV have the latest firmware (1.31 for the yamaha)

Neither device is unplugged etc during the night, so i's weird that I get these handshake issues in the morning.

receiver configuration:
HDMI control = ON
Standby through = AUTO
ARC=ON
Standby Sync = AUTO
4K Upscaling = OFF

thank you
I have the exact same problem. I have a Samsung Q6 from 2019. What I have to do is unplug the TSR-700 for about 15 seconds then plug it back in. Then the e-arc starts working again.
 

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They really aren’t.

TV’s, dongles and sticks are all in the underwhelming and underpowered camp, for the most part, so comparing them is somewhat futile.

Once someone has used a truly dedicated and powerful streaming box, like an ATV or Shield, etc, there is no comparison when coming from apps on a TV.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
So you've watched the apps on a LG OLED?
 
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