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I picked my 77" C1 and just got done setting it up. Sadly, the amount of vertical bands is extreme....I mean really bad. There are streaks all over the screen with some brighter ones on the left and right side of the screen. I am going to run the set for a few hours and do a pixel refresh, but initial impressions of the 77" is god awful. Probably one of the worst uniformity sets I have even seen. Hopefully it can clear up...because the image is great when on a bright seen and the banding is not visible except for the very strong one on the left side of the panel.
 

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It’s tough, isn’t it? Because what you perceive is a combination of what the TV is capable of, the specific piece of HDR you are watching, and the tone-mapping that gets applied…

Next time you’re watching some over-1000-Nit-mastered content with bright highlights including fully-saturated highlights, that’s the content to try G-mode again.
That's funny you mention this, as I checked it on both Interstellar and Zero Dark Thirty.
 

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The only one coming out is the Sony XR-75Z9J
Nope. TCL 8k 75" 6-Series. But it's a distant 2nd right now to the 77" C1. TCL says they want to beat the Q90A/Q95A. Basically will be 8K version of the Q95A. Will be announced for U.S. market by June 22. Probably in stores by July. I'll take a look... But the 77" C1 seems quite fantastic.
 

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With my new 77" having very poor uniformity I am running the pixel refresher. Can someone let me know how long it takes for this to complete? Also a few other quick questions:

1.) How do you turn off the LG logo thing when you power off the TV? It was posted in the thread, but can find the answer.

2.) Where do you to turn off the Live stuff?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4,148 ·
What do you mean by ‘actually work’?

It’s been proven to increase output levels but if you mean ‘get G1-level output from a C1’ I don’t believe anyone has done a comprehensive comparison.

It would be great to see Vincent Toh do one of his famous HDTVTEST videos with 65G1 vs. 65C1 vs. 65C1-in-G-mode, but I’m fairly certain that’s not going to happen (Vincent is warning C1 owners against using G-mode on LGE’s advice).

But I think you’re asking the wrong question. The correct question is not whether G-mode has been proven to actually work but rather whether trying out G-mode has been proven to be safe?

If you know it’s safe to try out G-mode then you can give it a try on your 77C1 and decide whether you see enough of a difference to justify using G-mode all the time.

If the result of that ‘trial run’ is NO, you can safely fall back to C-mode knowing you’re not missing much.

And if the answer is YES, then that brings up another important question which is ‘does continued use of G-mode result in damage to the WOLED TV?’ (to which you’ll never get a negative response from LG or any other authoritative source so, assuming continued lack of any C1 owners reporting negative consequences from using G-more, you’ll need to draw your own conclusion and decide whether the benefits justify the risks you determine…).
Yeah I was driving my ole lady crazy switching back and forth and she couldn't see anything. I will acknowledge that she isn't a great reliable source though🤣
Without doing a side-by-side comparison, it’s going to be almost impossible to pick out a 10% or even 20% difference in peak luminance…

Honestly, the only way you might be able to tell is to pick out specific HDR scenes such as those used by Vincent Toh to show where tone mapping translates to some loss of near-white detail.
In my opinion, the switch probably won't be noticeable because of the way the LG measurements top around 10%. So only in scenes without HDR highlights will any brightness increase be noticed. If the very very small highlights could push more than it would be more noticeable.
I picked my 77" C1 and just got done setting it up. Sadly, the amount of vertical bands is extreme....I mean really bad. There are streaks all over the screen with some brighter ones on the left and right side of the screen. I am going to run the set for a few hours and do a pixel refresh, but initial impressions of the 77" is god awful. Probably one of the worst uniformity sets I have even seen. Hopefully it can clear up...because the image is great when on a bright seen and the banding is not visible except for the very strong one on the left side of the panel.
This is typically the case that we've seen many times and I'm pretty sure they all have cleared up after some break-in slides and a manual pixel refresher.
 

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In my opinion, the switch probably won't be noticeable because of the way the LG measurements top around 10%. So only in scenes without HDR highlights will any brightness increase be noticed. If the very very small highlights could push more than it would be more noticeable.

This is typically the case that we've seen many times and I'm pretty sure they all have cleared up after some break-in slides and a manual pixel refresher.
Yeah, I hope it does. I have the 65" C1 as well and damn what a jump in screen real estate this 77" is. I kept the 65" because uniformity is incredible, one of the best i have ever seen. If the 77 does not pan out I will try another and if that one is a dud I will just refund and keep the 65". My wife is almost thinking of of keeping the 65" for one of the bedrooms.

Also thanks for providing the break in slides. I just downloaded them to a thumb drive and will be running them soon. Just waiting for the pixel refresher to finish to see if it has improved a bit.
 

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In my opinion, the switch probably won't be noticeable because of the way the LG measurements top around 10%. So only in scenes without HDR highlights will any brightness increase be noticed. If the very very small highlights could push more than it would be more noticeable.
But isn’t the increased brightness available across the entire ABL curve?

If a 10% field is ~20% brighter in G-mode than C-mode, that should translate to greater near-white detail in certain content.

Comparing a C1 against an A90J is a different question, and it may well be that +20% brightness down to 10% and a +20% brightness level across a flat 0-10% is less impactful than getting an additional 10-20% bump for smaller highlights at 3% or 1% (ie: A90J or even A80J may deliver a greater impact than C1 G-Mode versus C-mode).

But just comparing a C1 in G-mode to a C1 in G-mode (or a C1 to a G1), the +20% increased brightness level available from 10% down to 0% (flat) should translate to modified/reduced tone mapping in the content that needs it…
 

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Discussion Starter · #4,151 ·
But isn’t the increased brightness available across the entire ABL curve?

If a 10% field is ~20% brighter in G-mode than C-mode, that should translate to greater near-white detail in certain content.

Comparing a C1 against an A90J is a different question, and it may well be that +20% brightness down to 10% and a +20% brightness level across a flat 0-10% is less impactful than getting an additional 10-20% bump for smaller highlights at 3% or 1% (ie: A90J or even A80J may deliver a greater impact than C1 G-Mode versus C-mode).

But just comparing a C1 in G-mode to a C1 in G-mode (or a C1 to a G1), the +20% increased brightness level available from 10% down to 0% (flat) should translate to modified/reduced tone mapping in the content that needs it…
Yes but to me I'm saying a 700nit tiny HDR highlight being changed to a 750-760nit HDR highlight will be hard to tell.
On the Sonys they keep pushing as it gets smaller. If the LGs did that as well, it's speculation, but I would think the G1 or G1 mode would be able to have a larger percentage increase in small areas, if it were allowed to do so. Based on the A80J being similar to G1 across the board except 5% and smaller is why I wish LG would have let it push more in smaller areas.
That's all I was trying to say, though poorly.
When pushing the A80J the difference in highlights from 700 to 900 is quite noticeable.
 

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Yes but to me I'm saying a 700nit tiny HDR highlight being changed to a 750-760nit HDR highlight will be hard to tell.
On the Sonys they keep pushing as it gets smaller. If the LGs did that as well, it's speculation, but I would think the G1 or G1 mode would be able to have a larger percentage increase in small areas, if it were allowed to do so. Based on the A80J being similar to G1 across the board except 5% and smaller is why I wish LG would have let it push more in smaller areas.
That's all I was trying to say, though poorly.
When pushing the A80J the difference in highlights from 700 to 900 is quite noticeable.
That’s what I thought you might be trying to say ;).

But while a G-mode able to push above 900 Nits for sub-10% highlights might make even more of a difference, a +20% increase across-the board in 0-10% levels reaching 800-850 nits in G-mode instead of ~700 nits in C-mode ought to still have a noticeable impact (on the right content)…
 

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Picked up my G1 yesterday and set it up a few hours ago and right off the bat 1080p content in film maker mode looks amazing, will be trying both the ps5 and series x later on but expect it to be better than c9
 

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poopy.. still waiting on the G1 77. Are people seeing them around?
I got some new speakers (bigger than i thought they'd be) and moved everything around.. including moving the AV cabinet 8" to the right.. but the C9 77 is still in the same place. The wife is unhappy. (but she'd be unhappy with the speakers right up on the wall too.. so.. no winning for me till the new TV. )
The A90J came the next day after i ordered that for the bedroom :( (Wife is going to be unhappy for calibrating that this weekend.)
I'm sure i'll get my g1 when it is time to send my Denon x8500H in to be upgraded. haha. :)
 
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Good news....Pixel refresher on my 3 hours old 77" C1 cleared up almost all of the screen uniformity issues. Prior to this it was one of the worst screens with vertical streaks going up and down all over the screen...it was really bad. It also had a very bright/strong band on the left side about 2" in from the left side of the screen that was even noticeable during a bright scene (which is not good at all). But just turned it back on and it is pretty much all gone. Still going to runs the color slides to break it in. For gaming, which this set is going to be used for mainly, Sea of Thieves is like a torture test for any TV especially when the game is in the dusk/night time of day and it looks pretty clean with some very faint bands after the pixel refresh..prior it looked like someone took a rake and imbedded lines all over the screen.

Lastly..for those with the C1 77" is there is a slight tilt back of the screen when using the included stand? My 65" does not lean, but there is a slight lean towards the top where it leans back slightly with the 77".
 

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Good news....Pixel refresher on my 3 hours old 77" C1 cleared up almost all of the screen uniformity issues. Prior to this it was one of the worst screens with vertical streaks going up and down all over the screen...it was really bad. It also had a very bright/strong band on the left side about 2" in from the left side of the screen that was even noticeable during a bright scene (which is not good at all). But just turned it back on and it is pretty much all gone. Still going to runs the color slides to break it in. For gaming, which this set is going to be used for mainly, Sea of Thieves is like a torture test for any TV especially when the game is in the dusk/night time of day and it looks pretty clean with some very faint bands after the pixel refresh..prior it looked like someone took a rake and imbedded lines all over the screen.

Lastly..for those with the C1 77" is there is a slight tilt back of the screen when using the included stand? My 65" does not lean, but there is a slight lean towards the top where it leans back slightly with the 77".
Glad to hear this cleared up, had me worried. This is my first OLED, any tips for using one? What is this break in period I hear about? Any content I shouldn't run out of the box?


Also, anyone here familiar with the 2014 Samsung HU8700 65 edge lit LED I am upgrading from? Can I expect more brightness from the C177 given the gap in time\tech?
 

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Glad to hear this cleared up, had me worried. This is my first OLED, any tips for using one? What is this break in period I hear about? Any content I shouldn't run out of the box?


Also, anyone here familiar with the 2014 Samsung HU8700 65 edge lit LED I am upgrading from? Can I expect more brightness from the C177 given the gap in time\tech?
If you plan on getting it calibrated then there are slides here to break in tv...sorry can't provide link. If not just turn on and enjoy. The panel will brighten within the first 100-200 hrs. I tend to watch full screen content for first 100hrs but thats just me. Don't over think it!

As far as the tv you are coming from...I'll just say you won't stop smiling for a while!
 

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Glad to hear this cleared up, had me worried. This is my first OLED, any tips for using one? What is this break in period I hear about? Any content I shouldn't run out of the box?


Also, anyone here familiar with the 2014 Samsung HU8700 65 edge lit LED I am upgrading from? Can I expect more brightness from the C177 given the gap in time\tech?
There are break in slides on page 1 of this thread. You download the slides to a USB drive then watch the video that is provided in that same post on how to set up the tv to run the slides.

OLED's tend to get better after a break in time frame. I have had several OLED's where I had uniformity issues but they cleared up after using the TV for a bit or using the Pixel Refresher. My new 77" had the worst and I was worried that a pixel refresh would not clean it up well enough, but I was wrong. Also OLED's do get bright after the first 100+ hours or so of use.

You don't have to use slides though..this just achieves the 100+ hours faster. I typically will just use content...so watching movies, TV and playing games. When I need to walk away to do something for 2 hours or so, I would put a movie on that is full screen (no letter bars) to put more hours on the set. With slides, you can just start it and it will keep running until you turn it off...I know many use them because it is the fastest way to get a lot of hours in quickly.
 
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Good news....Pixel refresher on my 3 hours old 77" C1 cleared up almost all of the screen uniformity issues. Prior to this it was one of the worst screens with vertical streaks going up and down all over the screen...it was really bad. It also had a very bright/strong band on the left side about 2" in from the left side of the screen that was even noticeable during a bright scene (which is not good at all). But just turned it back on and it is pretty much all gone. Still going to runs the color slides to break it in. For gaming, which this set is going to be used for mainly, Sea of Thieves is like a torture test for any TV especially when the game is in the dusk/night time of day and it looks pretty clean with some very faint bands after the pixel refresh..prior it looked like someone took a rake and imbedded lines all over the screen.

Lastly..for those with the C1 77" is there is a slight tilt back of the screen when using the included stand? My 65" does not lean, but there is a slight lean towards the top where it leans back slightly with the 77".
The impact of the first pixel refresh cycle on a new WOLED screen is pretty much mind-blowing…

That’s the reason I generally advise not to even look at a 5% field until after the first pixel refresh cycle has been completed.
 

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I don’t know if there’s a faster way to get there, but…

Home Button->Home Dashboard->[three dots on the top right]->Edit->Edit Inputs->[select the input you want and change it’s name to PC]
Not sure if there's any other setting at play but I can't edit my hdmi to pc on my G1 65 either, with the pc connected to a denon receiver and using a cable/input with earc enabled.
 
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