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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm trying to figure out why the 3803 is $400 more MSRP than the 2803 when the 2803 has more wattage (125 vs. 110) and seems to support the same standards, e.g., up to 7.1. I know I'm missing something, so can someone summarize the primary differences?


Thanks! :)
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by goombawa
I'm trying to figure out why the 3803 is $400 more MSRP than the 2803 when the 2803 has more wattage (125 vs. 110) and seems to support the same standards, e.g., up to 7.1. I know I'm missing something, so can someone summarize the primary differences?


Thanks! :)
Here is the features chart from Denon.

And you better check it again. As the 2803 puts out less power than the 3803, not more power.

It is the 4802R that puts out the 125 watts, and not the 2803, which is 90 watts. And the 3803 is 110 watts.

Also, the 4802R is more money than either the 2803 or the 3803 is.

http://www.usa.denon.com/catalog/pdf...t%20092203.pdf
 

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Also the 3803 has better DACs (Burr-Brown) and processors. But eventually it all comes down to sound and if that makes any difference to you and if the price difference of $400 can be justified. I'd save the $400 to buy a good used 3 channel amp to power the front three speakers and let the 2803 handle the rest. That would be my preference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Interesting...if you look at another section of their site, it states 125 *and* 90. Can you say typo? ;)

http://www.usa.denon.com/catalog/products.asp?l=1&c=2


90W is plenty for my room so that's actually better for me anyway. However, I may want to route my HD cable/DVD via component through my receiver so I wonder if the electronics in the 2803 are good enough not to erode the signal.
 

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Be careful how you read specs. 90wpc is at 8ohms and 125wpc is at 6ohms. Always compare power numbers at the same ohms. If the impedance isn't defined, ignore the wattage number completely.



Bill
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by goombawa
Interesting...if you look at another section of their site, it states 125 *and* 90. Can you say typo? ;)


90W is plenty for my room so that's actually better for me anyway. However, I may want to route my HD cable/DVD via component through my receiver so I wonder if the electronics in the 2803 are good enough not to erode the signal.


The 90W rating is for 0.05% THD. It can do 125, but at 0.7% THD.


Additionally, the component video switching has 100MHz bandwidth which is far more than necessary for essentially loss-less switching (supposedly 40-50 MHz is sufficient for HD)


...Just ordred my 2803 last night....


Shrugger
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by goombawa
Interesting...if you look at another section of their site, it states 125 *and* 90. Can you say typo? ;)

http://www.usa.denon.com/catalog/products.asp?l=1&c=2


90W is plenty for my room so that's actually better for me anyway. However, I may want to route my HD cable/DVD via component through my receiver so I wonder if the electronics in the 2803 are good enough not to erode the signal.
Well that only works if you read the specs for the 2803 for 6 ohms, and the 3803 for 8 ohms. Like you must have done. As it shows the same 8 ohms specs as the comparison chart does.


There is no typo, you just did not read the equal specs right, by comparing a 6 ohm spec to a 8 ohm spec.


Also the 100mhz video switching they both have, should be way more than enough. So I would not worry about that being a problem with either the 2803 or the 3803.
 

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If you go thru the comparison chart, the 3803 does offer a few more features and has some better parts in it's digital and surround sections. But the key difference is the amp section. The 3803 weighs almost 8 pounds more and this is all about the amplifiers. If you use your setup in a large room, use speakers that are less sensitive than normal, or just flat out like it loud, then the 3803 would be the better choice.


That said, I use my 3803 as a pre/pro only and if the 2803 had been available at the time I was ready to buy, I would have bought the 2803. IMO, it compares very well to it's bigger brothers...
 

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power rating specs are WAY overrated for receivers. You can't trust them. There have been countless posts on this exact topic. This is why you can find 100w amps (separates) that are 1000 dollars by themselves.


I wouldn't worry about the power ratings of either. They are both adequate. It is the other features that make the difference.


the 3803 will convert composite and s video to component (kind of a nice feature).


the 3803 also has some switching for it's back speakers.


slightly better remote (lights up)


all in all very small differences. there is 8lbs though and that should give you an idea of the build quality. It is a little better with the 3803, but not so much that it makes it an obvious choice.


if the added features aen't a must then get the 2803. It's a great receiver for a great Price.
 

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I did a side by side between the 3803 and the 2803 using Def Tec speakers. I adjusted the tone controls to "0" and set everything else the same.

I was hoping that they would sound the same, or that I couldn't tell the difference, then I could save some money, but the 3803 was noticeable better IMO. So that's what I plan on buying.

~ Jay
 

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Ciao,


I'm usually active in the British avforums and there everyone is talking about the very important feature 3803 has, namely, the master audio delay adjustment, to adjust lip-sync problems which mainly derives from dodgy soundtracks (either generally bad lip-sync throughout the film or maybe some particular scenes where the editing was not too clever) or during the progressive processing either in the dvd player or in the video source, e.g. plasma or projector.


2803 doesn't have that feature and that alone swings many to choose 3803 over its competitors and cheaper brothers (despite the price difference).


Maybe it isn't a important feature in the US market?


Doraemon
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by ntode
the 3803 will convert composite and s video to component (kind of a nice feature).
Is it correct to say that this feature does not affect PQ, but only the number of wires you have to run?
 
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