[MCP1991]

Hey everybody, new to the avsforums, this will be my first in a couple ways, first build and first thread.
And I'd like to thank @notnyt for help with the design and spoonfeeding me answers for every question I had

Anyways, this all started out when my brother bought a projector and decided he wanted a home theater, we were originally going to use a store bought sub, but after talking with nyt and seeing his build I couldn't resist going a bit bigger with it.

At first I was going to build the sub nyt designed for berstuck, but we decided on splitting it into 2 boxes to make it more practical and have less issues with room modes and such, so he designed me a couple boxes in sketchup (thank you!) and I got to building.

Going into this as a complete noob to woodworking was a bit overwhelming at times, I even put the saw blade on backwards and was wondering why all my cuts were burned and wavy

I'll attach the sketchup and winisd files to this post so anybody else can use them if they like, the sketchup file includes build order which went almost flawlessly

The port length on the original model was slightly too long, so I shortened it up and moved a couple of the braces, the one model off to the side is the corrected one and the cutlist is updated and ready to roll.

Specs are 16hz tune, 15cuft internal, max spl 120db, ultimax 18in driver, inuke6000dsp one sub per channel

zip too big to attach so here are the files: https://u.teknik.io/dzafBz.zip

More posts to come soon

 

[BassThatHz]

I assume that since you got the dsp version that you will eventually be picking up a UMIK to measure the subs/room and set the PEQ accordingly... now or in the future.
http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1
http://cross-spectrum.com/measurement/calibrated_umik.html

 

[Samps]

What? You're first thread and no pics!

 

[notnyt]

I assume that since you got the dsp version that you will eventually be picking up a UMIK to measure the subs/room and set the PEQ accordingly... now or in the future.
http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1
http://cross-spectrum.com/measurement/calibrated_umik.html

He has a umik, response is pretty flat without much correction, but for some reason xt32 on his x4000 is seriously horked. Looks like the mic circuit has a highpass filter applied from like 1khz

Waiting for the finished pics to be posted

 

[MCP1991]

I assume that since you got the dsp version that you will eventually be picking up a UMIK to measure the subs/room and set the PEQ accordingly... now or in the future.
http://www.minidsp.com/products/acoustic-measurement/umik-1
http://cross-spectrum.com/measurement/calibrated_umik.html

Yeah, I already touched up the bass a bit with the umik, sounds great But like nyt said my xt32 bit the dust somehow, maybe ESD into the jack or something.

Anyways, may as well post pics of the completed thing then the build afterwards since we know that's what everybody wants. painted them with rustoleum 4x, it looks ok but I think duratex would have worked out better, this stuff isn't very durable which seems odd since you're supposed to walk on it.

EDIT: adding FR before and after EQ, first one is no EQ, second one is after screwing around with the dsp for a minute, third one is XT32 going bonkers and shaking my house (rip audyssey 2014-2015)

 

[notnyt]

Where's the other one?

 

[MCP1991]

Where's the other one?

Other side of the room, ignore the mess.

On to the details about construction, instead of buying a tracksaw I got a cheaper dewalt worm drive and made a guide for it, some people make guides out of all wood but I made mine half wood and half unistrut, just make sure it's straight before you screw it on there and it works great.

You can see how it works in the second pic, prob not as accurate as a full on track saw but it was a lot cheaper.

Construction went pretty easy but I did one thing different from nyt's plans, I attached the port back wall first before starting on the bracing because it would have been to difficult to get the middle vertical bracing perfectly straight up and down, and that piece connects directly to the rear port wall.

One thing I learned pretty quick during construction is that if you have all the pieces cut the exact right length, by the time everything is glued together things don't meet up very well, all the little gaps between the joints with glue in them add up and then things don't work right when it comes time for finishing.

I should have made the top and bottom piece slightly over-length and trimmed them flush with a flush-trim bit when everything was done, all those gaps kinda screwed me and there is a ledge on the bottom where they meet.

Anyways, more pics, and yeah this was done in the kitchen

 

[notnyt]

epic first venture into diy.

 

[BrokenCrank]

epic first venture into diy.

Agreed! and Congrats...

 

[FriscoDTM]

Nice job - epic indeed!