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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2x sealed Dayton Ultimax UM18-22 build thread [img heavy]

Yes, it's another one of those, not very exciting. But, I figured I'll throw up some pictures because why not - and, to give people an idea of what that Duratex paint looks like.

I bought two flat pack + UM18-22 kits from PartsExpress a couple of months ago. The lack of an amp (research here) and no dedicated build space meant the project was left idle. Also, the current HSU Research ULS15-MK2 was doing a really good job, especially paired with a MiniDSP.

Now that we've in a house, I have some space, so decided to finally assemble / build the boxes.

I made two mistakes.

The first one was the severe / serious one. In my haste, I figured I could balance an enclosure on top of a trolley to be able to paint all sides at once. It worked, until it didn't... with a loud bang heard from the living room, the box fell down on the concrete floor in the garage and dented a corner. Upon closer examination and knocking on the walls, it appeared one wall had gotten unstuck from the rest of the enclosure as the note was much deeper when knocking on it.
I decided to, instead of trying to take it apart, add glue on the seams wherever possible and use L brackets and screws to secure it in place. Now it sounds much better, we'll see how it actually works once I start testing.

The second mistake I made was installing the driver without any stuffing in the box. I thought I was all done, looked around and saw a bag of white fluff... great.

From my experience:

Pros
  • Looks really sleek when finished (I used a roller for the paint)
  • Paint dries super fast
  • The cones on the subwoofers have a nice carbon fiber look without a dust cap
  • The boxes aren't that much bigger than the HSU. They are a bit taller, yes, but not much wider.

Cons
  • It would be nice if Parts Express sold a complete kit, with the screws, glue, terminals, speaker wire, paint etc. for a bit of a discount if you buy a complete kit
  • The finished boxes are quite heavy
  • ... but the driver itself is not that heavy

How does it all sound? I don't know. My amplifier is not here yet (I hope it makes it before Thanksgiving...!). I ordered it from BH Photo Video on 10/20, and it still says back ordered. Crest Audio Pro-LITE 7.5 Professional Power Amplifier (7500W, 2RU)

Once it arrives, I'll pair it up with MiniDSP and follow the guide(s) out there on how to properly EQ two subs. Then post graphs, obviously!

For now, a quick graph from the current HSU setup will have to do. The signal chain is Marantz SR5010 AVR > MiniDSP 2x4HD > sub. Ignore the sub running hot compared to the mains, I know!




Now the Dayton build pictures. Scroll past these to see the measurements (yes, the amp arrived!)








































Measurements



Left sub only - no EQ (followed by group delay)




Right sub only - no EQ (followed by group delay)






Both subs EQ'd individually with REW one by one (not using MSO, still learning), followed by GD graph. No Audyssey.






As above, but with Audyssey, followed by GD graph.



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! They Duratex paint is quite good, I recommend it if you're looking for this kind of finish. 2 coats are on here.
looks like they turned out great despite jumping off the handcart.
Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
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Nice job!

Fackamato do you know the approximate weight of each of these bad boys?

I guess I never realized these aren't complete! Does their website / somewhere list the stuff you need to add to finish the assembly? (screws, glue, terminals, speaker wire, paint etc.)

Keep us posted as the amp arrives & your cat explodes etc. etc.
:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Fackamato do you know the approximate weight of each of these bad boys?

I guess I never realized these aren't complete! Does their website / somewhere list the stuff you need to add to finish the assembly? (screws, glue, terminals, speaker wire, paint etc.)

Keep us posted as the amp arrives & your cat explodes etc. etc.
:rolleyes:
They are complete! I just meant it'd be nice if there was a complete kit, not just drivers and cut MDF.

As soon as I unpack the scale I'll weigh them. Bit rough math puts them at around 106lbs plus paint, stuffing, screws, wood filler, cables, connectors... Probably 110lbs or so each.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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looking good...!!!
 

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How is that amp doing powering the UM18s?


I currently have two UM18s sealed (basically the same exact setup as you) with an inuke 6000DSP. I want to add two more UM18s but I need moar powah! Thinking of the Crest you bought or a speakerpower 6000HT plate amp to power all 4 and ditch the inuke.
 

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follow up

Post an update once you get your amp!

FWIW my inuke 6k fried three UM18s once the inadequate 15 amp breaker that kept tripping was replaced with a dedicated 20amp circuit.:mad: And played sub torture tracks. Loud. And long.

(I now have Ficar Audio SSD neo 18s instead.)
 

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Yes, it's another one of those, not very exciting. But, I figured I'll throw up some pictures because why not - and, to give people an idea of what that Duratex paint looks like.

I bought two flat pack + UM18-22 kits from PartsExpress a couple of months ago. The lack of an amp (research here) and no dedicated build space meant the project was left idle. Also, the current HSU Research ULS15-MK2 was doing a really good job, especially paired with a MiniDSP.

Now that we've in a house, I have some space, so decided to finally assemble / build the boxes.

I made two mistakes.

The first one was the severe / serious one. In my haste, I figured I could balance an enclosure on top of a trolley to be able to paint all sides at once. It worked, until it didn't... with a loud bang heard from the living room, the box fell down on the concrete floor in the garage and dented a corner. Upon closer examination and knocking on the walls, it appeared one wall had gotten unstuck from the rest of the enclosure as the note was much deeper when knocking on it.
I decided to, instead of trying to take it apart, add glue on the seams wherever possible and use L brackets and screws to secure it in place. Now it sounds much better, we'll see how it actually works once I start testing.

The second mistake I made was installing the driver without any stuffing in the box. I thought I was all done, looked around and saw a bag of white fluff... great.

From my experience:

Pros
  • Looks really sleek when finished (I used a roller for the paint)
  • Paint dries super fast
  • The cones on the subwoofers have a nice carbon fiber look without a dust cap
  • The boxes aren't that much bigger than the HSU. They are a bit taller, yes, but not much wider.

Cons
  • It would be nice if Parts Express sold a complete kit, with the screws, glue, terminals, speaker wire, paint etc. for a bit of a discount if you buy a complete kit
  • The finished boxes are quite heavy
  • ... but the driver itself is not that heavy

How does it all sound? I don't know. My amplifier is not here yet (I hope it makes it before Thanksgiving...!). I ordered it from BH Photo Video on 10/20, and it still says back ordered. Crest Audio Pro-LITE 7.5 Professional Power Amplifier (7500W, 2RU)

Once it arrives, I'll pair it up with MiniDSP and follow the guide(s) out there on how to properly EQ two subs. Then post graphs, obviously!

For now, a quick graph from the current HSU setup will have to do. The signal chain is Marantz SR5010 AVR > MiniDSP 2x4HD > sub. Ignore the sub running hot compared to the mains, I know!




Now the Dayton build pictures:







































How much Polyfill did you use?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How much Polyfill did you use?
Ended up being different for each box. Maybe 2-4lbs in the first one, and around 2lbs in the second one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now with graphs added to the first post.

Still using REW only - haven't mastered Multi Sub Optimizer yet...
 

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I must say the point the kits should include glue, stuffing etc is a great one. They do offer closer to that with an amp included but not many want that.

It is a pain figuring the connectors, terminals, stuffing screws and glue when you do a first build. That feedback is good enough imo you should suggest it to PE.

They sell everything needed...but dont specify it all even though it is a straightforward sealed kit. Very good points.


And nice build. Everybody makes a few mistakes...admitting it to others reflects a very good personality imo. Nicely done.
 

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Now with graphs added to the first post.

Still using REW only - haven't mastered Multi Sub Optimizer yet...
Dont worry about MSO or integration yet.

The biggest changes to sub response (better and worse) comes from moving the subs to new positions.

Great positioning will reduce the
variations in response far more than eq.

It's a long process if u do it but well worth it.

Even if positioning is limited, a foot or two in any direction can dramatically change the response.

When u find it...its audio nirvana.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
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This is a great thread. Thanks! Waiting on delivery of the first UM18 and flat pack now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
This is a great thread. Thanks! Waiting on delivery of the first UM18 and flat pack now.
Nice! What amp? Do you have access to EQ/DSP?
 

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Post an update once you get your amp!

FWIW my inuke 6k fried three UM18s once the inadequate 15 amp breaker that kept tripping was replaced with a dedicated 20amp circuit.:mad: And played sub torture tracks. Loud. And long.

(I now have Ficar Audio SSD neo 18s instead.)
Many companies make their car subs have an impedance peak near 60hz to help avoid from being burnt up by teenagers putting them in their boomer cars with multi-kilowatt amps.

Heat is proportional to: current
and to a lesser extent: watts

Since most music is >40-200hz it makes sense to have a giant peak in there to reduce current. They think it is 1-2ohms but it's actually closer to 4-30ohms in some cases. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing. ;)

data-bass measures the impedance of all drivers tested.

Sounds like you need to be using 8-16 18's given your desired playback SPL...
To get loud you need lots of coil-area to prevent the magic-smoke from coming out. The extra cone-area helps lots too! ;)

Keep in mind the UM-18 is 88db/w/m... just like pretty much all car/HT subs.

It's no array of 98db/w/m pa-woofers... that extra 10db of headroom can make a difference in watts, and thus current and thus heat. PA woofers are a nominal 8-ohms which helps further reduce current draw through the coil wires.
With 8-ohms nom and 98db/w/m they are MUCH harder to burn up in general,
and their impedance peak is even higher still, often 16-60ohms etc.
 

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Many companies make their car subs have an impedance peak near 60hz to help avoid from being burnt up by teenagers putting them in their boomer cars with multi-kilowatt amps.

Heat is proportional to: current
and to a lesser extent: watts

Since most music is >40-200hz it makes sense to have a giant peak in there to reduce current. They think it is 1-2ohms but it's actually closer to 4-30ohms in some cases. Which isn't necessarily a bad thing. ;)
@BassThatHz- you know it it your fault I blew all those subs. make the car go boom, Bass I love you, etc. Without those....I would not have the SSD neos :)
 
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