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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,


Was wondering if someone could help me. I am about to begin framing on my basement and HT room. As you know, the cost of lumber has really went up. I painted my cinder block walls with Drylok. My walls will be about an inch from the walls. I was at Lowe's today pricing lumber and I saw 2x3x8 studs (never heard of that). They are almost $1 cheaper than the 2x4x8 studs. Would it be acceptable to use 2x4s for my header and base plates, while using the 2x3s for the studs? Because the walls will sit out about an inch from the wall, I won't have to worry about not having room for electrical boxes.


Pros and Cons??
 

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2x3's will work fine. Just understand that they won't be as stiff as 2x4's and will act slightly differently acoustically.


I have no idea what you're talking about using 2x4 for base and cap and 2x3 for studs. That won't make diddly difference for elec box clearance.
 

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If you're pulling permits, you might want to see if 2x3's are up to code.


Also, consider that off-the-shelf interior door jambs are made to ideally fit a 2x4 wall with 1/2" of drywall on each side....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks.


I believe I will use 2x4 studs for the walls with doors because of the very reason Mr. Squid stated. I will use 2x3s on the two long walls along the cinder block where I will have no doors.
 

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if you opt for that, do you mean using 2x3 staggered studs on a 2x4 plate?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I plan to use 2x4x8s for the header and base plates. Yes, the base plate will be pressure treated. For the perimeter walls (anything parallel to the cinder block), I will use 2x3x8s as they are almost a $1 cheaper. The walls that will require doors, I will use 2x4s.


The HT room will consist of this:


Front, right and back wall (1 inch from cinder block wall) will be 2x4 top and bottom plates with 2x3 studs. The left wall will have a door, so that wall will be 2x4 top and bottom plates with 2x3 studs.


I was thinking of using staggered studs, but I"m not. I will place the 2x3s so that they are flush with the front of the 2x4s for the drywall to mount. I'm not too concerned with sound in the basement. Trying to keep as much from going upstairs as possible, but I am very limited as the height is very low in the HT room. I'll be using a drop ceiling, but with dry wall as the tiles, with insulation above. Not the best, but will help some.
 

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Drywall instead of ceiling tiles..interesting idea.Any experts car eto comment on how well this might work?Most definitely would be cheaper.WHATEVER color you wanted, and texture in wanted to boot..Curious about this one.


brickie
 

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There have been others here that did the drywall squares in place of ceiling tiles in a drop ceiling.
 
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