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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
4 x Sealed Dayton Audio Ultimax UM18-22 18 (Build Thread)

Hey Guys,

Thought it would be fun to create a build thread for my new crazy build which will consist of 4 x Dayton Ultimax 18" in sealed enclosures. The dimensions of each enclosure is 560mm (height) x 560mm (wide) x 548mm (deep), technically a traditional cubic style sub which is just over 4cu feet (could be slightly larger), which is the recommended sealed enclosure size for this driver.

I have been extremely happy with my Mini Marty for the past (almost) 2 years, however as you guys know you can never have enough bass so I have been on the hunt for something new and also I needed something to build anyway so this was an excuse in a way too :D

Now as per my previous thread I was in two minds whether to go for 2 x larger ported 21" B&C subwoofer design or 4 x smaller sealed Dayton Ultimax 18" subwoofer design. In the end I decided to go ahead with 4 slightly smaller sealed subwoofers which I believe and hope will give me more controlled and consistent bass in my room. My room is 6.5m deep and approx. 4m wide. Initially I will be placing two upfront and two behind my seating area, however things may change and I may re adjust my screen wall to accommodate all four subs to be placed directly under my screen.

I will need to read up on REW and MSO in order to learn how to time align and integrate all four subwoofers into my system. I would really appreciate any tips and tricks along the way.

I will try to update this thread with pictures on a regular basis as and when I start and proceed with the build. Thank you in advance for all your support, help and advice :)
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Couple of pics. The build has started. Fingers crossed will go all well but definitely a challenge as I have 4 to build :(

Got delivery for my remaining 3 subs and couple of other bits this morning :)
 

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OK guys I decided to start making my double front baffle for my 4 x Ultimax 18s. I have attached some pictures for reference. Tomorrow I aim to make my internal bracing in a similar fashion ;)
 

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I had to get really creative when deciding on how I was going to build the bracing. I decided that I was going to build interlocking bracing for maximum strength and stability. This was actually a much harder task then yesterday when building the double front baffles. It is very time consuming and really had to put my brain to work lol calculating the shape and design of the bracing. I always enjoy doing these things but today was a bit too much :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I finally finished the bracing for all four boxes. I had an idea last night that I wanted to use pocket hole screws for my bracing along with wood glue to make it extra strong. Again, a very time consuming process yet was worth in the end. All four boxes bracing complete and I can now proceed to glue on the double baffles :)
 

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This is looking great. Thank you for the detailed pictures and commentary. Everything looks very precise and to have gone together well. None of my builds have had such precision :). I saw on one of the baffles there was a router gouge, did you end up filling that? I ask because I have done the same thing and had to fix it to prevent air leaks around the driver.

I did an UM18 flat pack build a few years ago and ended up doing a triple front baffle to recess the driver. Turned out ok, but I like the look of the double baffle better. These UM18's should be on display.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
This is looking great. Thank you for the detailed pictures and commentary. Everything looks very precise and to have gone together well. None of my builds have had such precision :). I saw on one of the baffles there was a router gouge, did you end up filling that? I ask because I have done the same thing and had to fix it to prevent air leaks around the driver.

I did an UM18 flat pack build a few years ago and ended up doing a triple front baffle to recess the driver. Turned out ok, but I like the look of the double baffle better. These UM18's should be on display.
Thank you for your kind words. Your build also looks lovely :)


That is not a gouge it is a burn mark from the router. It hasn't penetrated the wood as I use the routers stopper but it did mark it.. there is no hole and even if there were it wouldn't really matter too much as that is the lip and directly under that is the 18mm thick first baffle which will be sandwiched onto , glued and clamped but thank you for bringing that to my attention, I appreciate it :)

I do have a question though.. My screws for the baffle are 32mm long and the MDF is 18mm + another 5mm for the lip on the top baffle so total of 23mm. This means the screw will be penetrating into the box by 9mm .. Would this be ok? or shall I cut small 18mm thick blocks and glue them directly under where I will be screwing in the driver so the screws will be going into 18mm+5mm+18mm = 41mm thick MDF? or better yet I may be able to make some plywood blocks to glue under where the screws will screw into? Any thoughts would be appreciated .. thank you :)
 

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Thank you for your kind words. Your build also looks lovely :)


That is not a gouge it is a burn mark from the router. It hasn't penetrated the wood as I use the routers stopper but it did mark it.. there is no hole and even if there were it wouldn't really matter too much as that is the lip and directly under that is the 18mm thick first baffle which will be sandwiched onto , glued and clamped but thank you for bringing that to my attention, I appreciate it :)

I do have a question though.. My screws for the baffle are 32mm long and the MDF is 18mm + another 5mm for the lip on the top baffle so total of 23mm. This means the screw will be penetrating into the box by 9mm .. Would this be ok? or shall I cut small 18mm thick blocks and glue them directly under where I will be screwing in the driver so the screws will be going into 18mm+5mm+18mm = 41mm thick MDF? or better yet I may be able to make some plywood blocks to glue under where the screws will screw into? Any thoughts would be appreciated .. thank you :)


Screws penetrating into the box isn’t a problem at all. However, adding plywood blocks behind will give you greatly improved holding power and strip resistance.

Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Screws penetrating into the box isn’t a problem at all. However, adding plywood blocks behind will give you greatly improved holding power and strip resistance.

Chris


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thank you Chris, would MDF blocks behind be sufficient? or would you recommend plywood? thank you :)
 

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Congrats on the Quad build ! I’ve been using (4) “Sealed” 15’s for the better part of 15 years, been quite happy with their performance it my two last houses.

As you know they require more power to get where ur going, did i miss how you were gonna power them. I use QSC 1450’s bridged and fan modded :0)

With great luck im about to disconnect my MiniDSP2x4 because i found a great location for all (4) which requires no EQ.

Looking forward to your completion and setup !!!
 

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Congrats on the Quad build ! I’ve been using (4) “Sealed” 15’s for the better part of 15 years, been quite happy with their performance it my two last houses.

As you know they require more power to get where ur going, did i miss how you were gonna power them. I use QSC 1450’s bridged and fan modded :0)

With great luck im about to disconnect my MiniDSP2x4 because i found a great location for all (4) which requires no EQ.

Looking forward to your completion and setup !!!

Thank you so much for your kind words and wishes :) I am also looking very much forward to finishing and actually integrating them into my system :)


I am going to use 2 x inuke NX 6000 with miniDSP 2x4HD. I hope this will be sufficient to power these beasts!
 

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Two 6000 inukes should do well. In terms of backing blocks, like Chris said, solid hardwood > plywood > mdf. I have used all three and oak blocks work a treat.
 

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Congrats on the Quad build ! I’️ve been using (4) “Sealed” 15’️s for the better part of 15 years, been quite happy with their performance it my two last houses.

As you know they require more power to get where ur going, did i miss how you were gonna power them. I use QSC 1450’️s bridged and fan modded :0)

With great luck im about to disconnect my MiniDSP2x4 because i found a great location for all (4) which requires no EQ.

Looking forward to your completion and setup !!!

Thank you so much for your kind words and wishes /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif I am also looking very much forward to finishing and actually integrating them into my system /forum/images/smilies/smile.gif


I am going to use 2 x inuke NX 6000 with miniDSP 2x4HD. I hope this will be sufficient to power these beasts!
You should have no problem with that power and four 18’s in ur 21’x13’ room. Mine are at the 1/3rd point in the room and the best i’ve ever seen em measure. I use an OmniMic with the newer multich disc.
 

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You should have no problem with that power and four 18’s in ur 21’x13’ room. Mine are at the 1/3rd point in the room and the best i’ve ever seen em measure. I use an OmniMic with the newer multich disc.

Your room looks really nice :cool:
 

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