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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I've had four UM18-22 Ultimax subs sitting on my shelf just waiting for the day to come when I would build them proper enclosures for my dedicated theater. Well, that time has finally come. I was originally thinking of just going with a full marty design, but didn't want the port firing into the back of my screen, so I decided to reach out to @eng-999 for a customized design. He had just designed some um18-22 boxes for @Oklahomie that seemed well-suited for my application as well, so after talking with him about what I was wanting, it seemed like reusing that design would work. I'll be running them off an LG FP14k clone amp and wiring each pair of them to present a ~2ohm load to each of the two channels of the amp. My receiver is a Denon 4520 but I also have a mini DSP 2x4. Since the Denon has dual sub outputs, do I even need to use the miniDSP? I am not sure if I can set the proper filters needed for a ported enclosure without the minidsp. Is there a way to do it in Audyssey? My mains are DIYSG 1099s powered by an Emotiva XPA5 and surrounds are volt 10s. The room is roughly 12x26x8ft and is a room within a room construction with sealed doors (link to room build thread in my sig).

Now the fun stuff.

I took the measurements provided by eng-999 and built them in sketchup so I could visualize how they needed to be built:



This is how they will be stacked behind my screen:

With the 1099s:


Cutlist:


Pile of wood:


Measurements from eng's modeling:
Four ported boxes vs two sealed boxes. These winisd charts show there total output.
 

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Oh man, this is a sweet setup. Isn’t eng-399 the best? Yes, with the clone amp, you still need the mini dsp. Get the WiFi module and you’ll be loving it. When you get to that point, ask for help. Its not too hard. I used to use both sub outs from my x6300, but Audyssey messes up on the distances and now only use one to the mini dsp.
Subbed and I can’t wait to see how you love this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was making pretty good progress on the first box tonight, but rushed it and ended up breaking it. The glue wasn’t quite dry enough for me to move the clamps to another panel. One of the panels fell off completely and another one loosened up quite a bit, so I had to re glue and re clamp it. It frustrated the crap out of me and it was getting late, so I quit for the night. Here are a couple pics of how far I got before it fell apart:



 

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I was making pretty good progress on the first box tonight, but rushed it and ended up breaking it. The glue wasn’t quite dry enough for me to move the clamps to another panel. One of the panels fell off completely and another one loosened up quite a bit, so I had to re glue and re clamp it. It frustrated the crap out of me and it was getting late, so I quit for the night. Here are a couple pics of how far I got before it fell apart:
Yeah, that's the frustration of having a limited number of clamps, I feel your pain! I've had to call it a night earlier than planned just because I didn't have enough clamps on hand.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, that's the frustration of having a limited number of clamps, I feel your pain! I've had to call it a night earlier than planned just because I didn't have enough clamps on hand.


I’ve seriously considered buying a bunch of clamps so I could knock these all out in a shorter time frame, but then I’d run out of room in my garage really quick. If it wasn’t winter and snowing all the time I’d leave the cars in the driveway for a couple nights until I was finished. I guess I’m going to change my strategy and build one at a time from start to finish. It will be hard resisting the temptation to drop in a driver and hook up the first one I get done.
 

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Call me crazy, but I glue, pre drill, countersink and screw all my cabs together. Yeah it leaves holes to fill, but it makes the build fast. Coarse drywall screws, 1 1/2 length work for me.
 

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@Jk7.2

I swear his setup is identical to what I was talking about doing in my room (and almost the same dimensions)! I've not start cutting anything yet and this is a perfect match for my room hah...

@sassuki

Thanks for sharing this, subscribed and probably copying you ;) have you put any thought into bracing for this?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for sharing this, subscribed and probably copying you ;) have you put any thought into bracing for this?

Glad I could help in some way, since I too am copying Aaron’s subs that Mike came up with.

I have been thinking about bracing and am planning on using a bunch of 3inch strips I already cut down while the table saw was set to cut the port rails. I’m thinking of using a piece of plywood behind the driver cutout for mounting the driver bolts. I’ll attach the 3 inch strips to that edge perpendicularly and do some sort of intersecting pattern of strips on the back side. I’ll add some pictures when I get to that point, or I might add it in the sketchup model to see if it translates from the thoughts in my head.
 

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Glad I could help in some way, since I too am copying Aaron’s subs that Mike came up with.

I have been thinking about bracing and am planning on using a bunch of 3inch strips I already cut down while the table saw was set to cut the port rails. I’m thinking of using a piece of plywood behind the driver cutout for mounting the driver bolts. I’ll attach the 3 inch strips to that edge perpendicularly and do some sort of intersecting pattern of strips on the back side. I’ll add some pictures when I get to that point, or I might add it in the sketchup model to see if it translates from the thoughts in my head.
I'm getting quotes for doing the cuts today on this by a local lumber yard, so if I go this route I'll probably chime into your thread a bit. I've got all my parts sitting in the basement minus the MDF and am ready to get building.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Call me crazy, but I glue, pre drill, countersink and screw all my cabs together. Yeah it leaves holes to fill, but it makes the build fast. Coarse drywall screws, 1 1/2 length work for me.


Thanks. I used to drill and screw everything back in my car audio days, but then the internet was invented and convinced me that gluing and clamping was just as strong... I’m just too impatient for that approach I guess. Considering these are going behind a screen I’m not too concerned about screw holes.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I'm getting quotes for doing the cuts today on this by a local lumber yard, so if I go this route I'll probably chime into your thread a bit. I've got all my parts sitting in the basement minus the MDF and am ready to get building.

Here is what I’m thinking of doing for the bracing. Nothing too fancy but it should do the trick:
 

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I had planned on using some of these threaded inserts into the inner baffle and cutting the outer baffle wider so the subs are flush mounted, and skipping the extra piece of plywood in there. Not sure if there is a benefit of going one route vs the other.


As for bracing I had kinda contemplated on using the normal window type ones that people throw in mini-marty's but maybe add something front to back as well across them.. Being that these are not as deep, guess I need to take that into consideration and perhaps what you've outlined is enough bracing.
@Jk7.2: When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)
 

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I had planned on using some of these threaded inserts into the inner baffle and cutting the outer baffle wider so the subs are flush mounted, and skipping the extra piece of plywood in there. Not sure if there is a benefit of going one route vs the other.





As for bracing I had kinda contemplated on using the normal window type ones that people throw in mini-marty's but maybe add something front to back as well across them.. Being that these are not as deep, guess I need to take that into consideration and perhaps what you've outlined is enough bracing.


@Jk7.2: When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)


When I use drywall screws, I just cover them with wood filler, If the boxes aren’t going behind the screen. My boxes behind my screen aren’t finished all the way around. Couldn’t let that get between me and my bass! I’m just impatient. My nearfield boxes are finished. And obviously all the speakers I’ve built. I just countersink them so the heads are about 1/8” sunk, then fill.
You still need clamps with brad nails. But they help hold panels in place.
 

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When I use drywall screws, I just cover them with wood filler, If the boxes aren’t going behind the screen. My boxes behind my screen aren’t finished all the way around. Couldn’t let that get between me and my bass! I’m just impatient. My nearfield boxes are finished. And obviously all the speakers I’ve built. I just countersink them so the heads are about 1/8” sunk, then fill.
You still need clamps with brad nails. But they help hold panels in place.
Sounds like screws are in my future then ;) these are all going behind the walls anyways.... and screwing will help make this go mucho faster...
 

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@Jk7.2: When you do those screws, what are you filling with? I don't have tons of clamps and have thought I'd go the screw route instead... (or maybe just brad nails from my air gun, but worry those may work their way out with vibrations)
I've used 18Ga brad nails in all my sub builds. They aren't going anywhere, the glue holds the panels together. The brad nails are basically replacing clamps, holding the panels in place while the glue sets.

Glue, nail in place, move on to the next panel. Easy and fast.
 

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I've used 18Ga brad nails in all my sub builds. They aren't going anywhere, the glue holds the panels together. The brad nails are basically replacing clamps, holding the panels in place while the glue sets.



Glue, nail in place, move on to the next panel. Easy and fast.
Same here. From sheets of MDF to three complete 24x48x20 enclosures took about 5-6 hours. Patience is not my strong suit. Ha.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Same here. From sheets of MDF to three complete 24x48x20 enclosures took about 5-6 hours. Patience is not my strong suit. Ha.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

That sounds ideal. I’m breaking out the nailer for the rest of these bad boys. Maybe I’ll be able to get them done this weekend after all.
 

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That sounds ideal. I’m breaking out the nailer for the rest of these bad boys. Maybe I’ll be able to get them done this weekend after all.
yup, brad nailer for the win! at least 20 boxes built that way.
 
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