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Discussion Starter #1
50/50 music movies in a kitchen/living room cabin setup no larger than 24'x24'.

I've just built a pair of Paul Carmody's Swope MTMs for a friend and have the bug
 

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I've been looking at the 1099s for LCR with a set of Volt 10s and a pair of UXL Full/Mini Martys (if I can get in a group buy) but what do I know
 

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If you want all out get in on he UXL spillover and and/or build dual gallajhorns (sp). Basically anything SEOS-wise will be advantageous with all of that bass- and the 1099's are certainly one of the most popular- though the Fusion or Alchemy will have you wanting for little either.


via Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If you want all out get in on he UXL spillover and and/or build dual gallajhorns (sp).
I guess I forgot to mention that 24x24 room will be 50-75% of my living space for the next few years and those badboys weigh in at over 300lbs. Just a wee to big for my taste I think
 

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I have a few questions...
What do you mean by no larger than 24'/24' cabin? Do you have a log cabin?


What does the 5K include?


Speakers and boxes and crossovers obviously...
Amps?
AVR?
Electrical subpanel for the equipment rack?
TV/projector?


What are your expectations?
Do you want concert volume or louder?
Do you have an adjacent attic or basement you can put subs in? IB?
Any size constraints?
Can you build a false wall?
TV or projector?
Do the boxes need to be beautifully finished, or just painted black?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a few questions...
What do you mean by no larger than 24'/24' cabin? Do you have a log cabin?


What does the 5K include?


Speakers and boxes and crossovers obviously...
Amps?
AVR?
Electrical subpanel for the equipment rack?
TV/projector?


What are your expectations?
Do you want concert volume or louder?
Do you have an adjacent attic or basement you can put subs in? IB?
Any size constraints?
Can you build a false wall?
TV or projector?
Do the boxes need to be beautifully finished, or just painted black?
Log cabins in Alaska and they're generally 24x24 (or smaller) with either a full loft of half loft for a bedroom.
5k would include everything sound. Speakers, subs, amps, receivers.
Subpanel? How much power does this stuff usually draw? It's something I could run dedicated circuits to if necessary.
Just a TV. No projector as of yet and no false wall.
I'd finish with either duratex or a nice paint job. No veneer or laminate for this guy
Loud is good and living in the woods usually means no neighbors.

My expectations aren't anything ridiculous I think. I just want something that sounds good and is relatively loud that can handle movies and the occasional house party
 

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You seem to be on the right track.​




Speakers: I think you are spot on with these.​
1099 with flat packs x3 $1329
volt 10LX with flat packs x4 720
UXL 18 x2 800
3 sheets of wood for 2 full martys $150
$2999


Inuke 6000dsp $350


AVR
denon x4000 $629 I was shocked at the price of this...I think it was $400 more a few months ago when I was looking at AVR's.

$500 for misc stuff and finish.


$4478 total


Give the sub amp its own 20A circuit. Ideally run 2 while you're at it so you can give the avr its own, or upgrade to 2 sub amps later.


other options:
Get 4x uxl's and tune lower than the full marty +$1300
cv5000 amp with a minidsp if you want a "heavy iron" amp +$575
Some other receiver that will do atmos. and 4 more ceiling speakers. +?
Outboard amps for the front 3 channels. +?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You seem to be on the right track.​




Speakers: I think you are spot on with these.​
1099 with flat packs x3 $1329
volt 10LX with flat packs x4 720
UXL 18 x2 800
3 sheets of wood for 2 full martys $150
$2999


Inuke 6000dsp $350


AVR
denon x4000 $629 I was shocked at the price of this...I think it was $400 more a few months ago when I was looking at AVR's.

$500 for misc stuff and finish.


$4478 total


Give the sub amp its own 20A circuit. Ideally run 2 while you're at it so you can give the avr its own, or upgrade to 2 sub amps later.


other options:
Get 4x uxl's and tune lower than the full marty +$1300
cv5000 amp with a minidsp if you want a "heavy iron" amp +$575
Some other receiver that will do atmos. and 4 more ceiling speakers. +?
Outboard amps for the front 3 channels. +?
So this is what I was thinking. Now, what would you build?
 

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So this is what I was thinking. Now, what would you build?
I wonder how shipping to Alaska impacts things, especially for the smaller companies like DIYSG or Stereo Integrity/iST/etc.? That may or may not impact your decisions.

I personally like to purchase parts that are easier to obtain and there's a reason the 1099 is elusive and the UXL is a group buy as big as it is. I also would want smallish speakers given the total living size...unless you're just planning to sit around and watch movies 24/7.

3 - Fusion 10
2 - Volt 6
2 - SI HST-18 sealed
 

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I can tell you first hand that shipping charges completely change everything, ESPECIALLY when it comes to heavy items like subs. If I remember right a RS 15" from PE was $90 for shipping. I bought 30 lb 15" car audio subs off of Amazon because shipping was free. The guy with a $5k budget might not care as much, but I think loading up on sub drivers available with free shipping is the $mart move.

I think I remember Erich telling me shipping was pretty bad from his end to AK. Cant remember what I was looking at buying a few years ago though.

Shipping smaller drivers and crossover parts from PE or Madisound wasnt that crazy.
 

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So this is what I was thinking. Now, what would you build?
Here's a novel for you:


Take this with a grain of salt, as I haven't heard the SEOS. I have some 1 off homebrewed line arrays.


Limiting this to diysg speakers in your price range:
I would build fusion 15's over the 1099 for the front 3 due to its lower crossover frequency with the bigger waveguide and simplicity of a 2 way/2 speaker box, just like notnyt said. But, I have a projector and an acoustically transparent screen.


Do you have $ into a TV already that you want to use? I have less than $900 into a benq 1070w and a 130" diy fixed frame millliskin spandex screen, I can't see myself having a TV again.


The volt 10's seem like a great surround speaker.


Not much difference in what I said before, or your initial thoughts. 1099 would work better with a TV with the horizontal center only being about a foot tall so you can tuck it tight under the screen. But speakers should be vertical, if someone was using 3x 1099's with an AT screen they should all be vertical.


Going out of your budget, and mine. What would I WANT? A seos24/dual AE TD18H+ with the Apollo upgrade for the front 3 basically lukeamdman's build and the same speaker with a single 18 for surrounds. Or from diysg 3x 1899's and 4x fusion 15's.


Subs:
Out of budget:32x fi IB318 with each sub getting about 250W and no high pass.


In budget:
(DISCLAIMER-While lots of power on a couple voice coils seems to work fine for many people... I don't consider my listening habits average, YMMV, to each their own.;)) Personally, I wouldn't go for the high power low speaker count subwoofer route. I listen to a lot of dubstep and like it LOUD: Skrillex, Bass Nectar, Excision, Knife Party, etc. A lot of the bass lines are like test tones that want to melt your subs. For this reason I have gone the opposite direction with lots of cheaper speakers with way less power per sub. Like 85W-150W per sub, not 1800W per.


I also chose class H amps that are inefficient compared to class D, heavy, and will churn out watts on a continual basis without shutting down (I haven't used an inuke). I chose multiple ep4000's 650Wx2 so I could spread the load across multiple amps on multiple circuits. 20A circuits provide 2400W continuous and the amps draw 1800W continuous without tripping their 15A internal breakers.


What would I do is easier to answer for the subs:
Here is the build I should have finished today. It is the same external dimensions as 2 full martys. 16x 1260W's cost me $863, nearly identical to the cost of 2 uxl's. I have another 16 of these subs waiting for boxes, and ultimately plan on having all 32 in MASSIVE ported boxes (400cuft net total) tuned to 9hz and getting about 85W-100W per driver. The sealed box is just for fun, comparison to the ported.
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/1917921-16-x-12-sealed-sub-cabinet.html


Here is a comparison of 16x sealed 12's blue, 16x ported 12's green, and 2x full marty with UXL18's red. All 3 with 3,600W (an inuke6000). The sealed and uxl have the same box size, the ported graph is 2x the box size of the uxl's both are tuned to 17hz.


 

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I'm pretty green when it comes to DIY audio, but with $5k to spend, doesn't mean that you need to in order to achieve your goals. Although $$ adds up fast without even thinking about it! I'll give you a few more designs you can look over here. From those I've built the Nat P's, and a RS150 center. Powered from my AVR (older Onkyo), with great sound quality (to me at least) and decent output. Now I'm building a new center, and the Kahnspires for mains, Nat's will be rears. LCR+ rears will now be powered from an Outlaw 7500, which should provide enough power to each speaker for me. 2 SI HT-18's in ported sonotubes off EP-2500 will replace the 2 12" sealed JL's. I just did a quick tally and I'll probably be into mine for roughly $4200-$4500 Canadian. (AVR $800, Kahns $850, center $450, Nat's $500, subs $650, sub amp $350, 5 channel amp (used) $800) That said there are SO many different opinions on which route to go. Find some designs you like, research them the best you can and go from there.
 

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Definitely go for a nu6000DSP: https://www.parts-express.com/behri...ightweight-power-amplifier-with-dsp--248-6710
one of these: http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=115&cp_id=11509&cs_id=1150902&p_id=4777&seq=1&format=2
two of these: https://www.parts-express.com/neutrik-nl4mpr-speakon-connector-4-pole-round-chassis-mount--092-054
two of these: https://www.parts-express.com/pyle-ppss30-speakon-type-speaker-cable-30-ft--248-4626

Typically for a music-source people use a computer with HDMI out, and a cheap $70 bluray player from walmart (or Igloo-mart in Alaska :D).
If your computer is slightly old and doesn't have HDMI don't worry, just about every bottom shelf nvidia graphics card has one these days ($30).

How much power does this stuff usually draw? It's something I could run dedicated circuits to if necessary.
When not cranking it, it will draw less than 15amps (TV+AVR+subwoofer amp).
If cranking it, you'll want the AVR and TV on a 15amp breaker shared, and the subwoofer amp on it's own 20amp breaker.

Two 15amp breakers goes a long ways for starters...

Loud is good and living in the woods usually means no neighbors.
My expectations aren't anything ridiculous I think. I just want something that sounds good and is relatively loud that can handle movies and the occasional house party
Define loud?
The Fusion 15 and 1099 will both get as loud as a jackhammer if you power it with one of these: https://emotiva.com/products/amplifiers/xpa-5
Powered with just an AVR you lose about 4-9db, but that is still louder than MOST people can tolerate...

If you can't get dual UXL-18's, I wouldn't lose any sleep going with a pair of UM-18's or SI-18's instead. Only a supreme-basshead would notice a difference.

Polar bears love to eat bass.
 
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