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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good afternoon all!

I've entered the SW portion of my DIY HT project! The Volt 8" LX surrounds are complete and I'm in a holding pattern waiting for the 1099 L/C/R to show up and so its time to stay busy with SW builds!

I requested the help of LTD02 to design me a build for HT and music use. He was willing to help and has been great answering all sorts of questions behind the scenes. I'm not that far along but already have to thank him sincerely for his willingness. I have roughly $1,200 to spend and lots of room with 9'h ceilings. The subs as well as L/C/R will be hidden behind a false wall and AT screen. LTD02 presented me with the following design:



The driver to be used is the PA 460 - http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa460-8-18-pro-woofer--295-036

I almost pooped myself realizing my eyes had not deceived me and LTD02 was suggesting 6 ENCLOSURES/SUBS. With a natural disposition of overdoing everything I enjoy I decided the time was now to start building 6 enclosures!

First one is well on its way - this one is to serve as my prototype. I do not have a nail gun so I used glue and (2-3 per panel) 1.25" coarse thread wood screws countersunk to fasten the panels.



I'll finish this one up this week and then buy panels for the remaining 5 and build the rest of them concurrently. ITS GOING TO TAKE SOME TIME but I will check back with updates/comments and would appreciate suggestions/comments from you all!

I would welcome names for this build; going to pick my favorite of the communities suggestions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Added bonus is that you can add 2 more, and not need another amp.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Glad you mentioned that; the amp LTD suggested is the inuke 3000 DSP. To my surprise this one amp will provide sufficient power for this design. Can I add two more and still stay with this amp? I'm fresh out a room that would be the first obstacle to overcome lol
 

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Glad you mentioned that; the amp LTD suggested is the inuke 3000 DSP. To my surprise this one amp will provide sufficient power for this design. Can I add two more and still stay with this amp? I'm fresh out a room that would be the first obstacle to overcome lol
Yes, an inkuke 3000dsp is 2 ohm stable on each channel. That particular speaker is 8ohms, so you can 4 subs off of each side for a 2ohm load vs the 2.6ish you're getting with 3 subs on each side.
 

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I really love how this is probably the only site in existence that can 'see' how building 6 18" drivers, all in separate boxes, equates to a 'budget' build . :eek:

It's like ... go BIG, so you can STAY home !! Just say NO to $10 popcorn !!

Looks like a great build ! and great fun !!

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, an inkuke 3000dsp is 2 ohm stable on each channel. That particular speaker is 8ohms, so you can 4 subs off of each side for a 2ohm load vs the 2.6ish you're getting with 3 subs on each side.
Over my head mike but I trust you thanks for the info. Prob is I am out of room and mdf haha. Figuring the six will create enough output that I don't need more but I'll have to wait and see.

From researching prior avs sub builds it is a non traditional design IMO; anxious to hear how it turns out and really enjoying the build!
 

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Digitaur

Diglitaur

Diglitorus

Diglitorus 6

Diglitorus Rex

Diglitorus Wrecks ?

or even Diglitorusex

or Dyslegtoresix

Digsrexus? OK, I'll stop there... I like this one... I was just typing out different versions, that included your Screen name, somehow.


or.... Rexus ... "the Rexus sub" sounds good
 

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on this one, the budget was very tight and the o.p. mentioned that a good chunk of the time will be spent on concert blu rays and other music.
he had plenty of space to work with, so we took advantage of it all. :) i figured that in this case it was worth it to go for a little higher sensitivity speaker for upper/midbass performance. even with only 6mm coil overhang, six of those driver will produces over 123db on the low end, so not exactly a slouch for movies either (and the drivers have usable excursion past overhang, obviously). the large cabs and high sensitivity drivers are super efficient--about 100db/1w1m at 50hz before room gain (and that is with cabs tuned just under 20hz). this allowed use of the low cost amp. an additional 2 driver will only provide 2db more output and would have gone over budget, hence the decision to go for six. the cab volume is slightly less than in the spec document (o.p. noted it is about 10.2 cu ft and that is closer than my back of the envelope quick calc). even at 'war volume' the required VA of the amp is only 350 which then gets spread over 6 drivers and together with the oversized ports (air velocity is under 10 m/s) there shouldn't be much compression if any.


**also big props to @mtg90 for finding this value driver and providing the initial experimentation and driver measurements. without those, this system wouldn't exist.
 

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on this one, the budget was very tight and the o.p. mentioned that a good chunk of the time will be spent on concert blu rays and other music.
he had plenty of space to work with, so we took advantage of it all. :) i figured that in this case it was worth it to go for a little higher sensitivity speaker for upper/midbass performance. even with only 6mm coil overhang, six of those driver will produces over 123db on the low end, so not exactly a slouch for movies either (and the drivers have usable excursion past overhang, obviously). the large cabs and high sensitivity drivers are super efficient--about 100db/1w1m at 50hz before room gain (and that is with cabs tuned just under 20hz). this allowed use of the low cost amp. an additional 2 driver will only provide 2db more output and would have gone over budget, hence the decision to go for six. the cab volume is slightly less than in the spec document (o.p. noted it is about 10.2 cu ft and that is closer than my back of the envelope quick calc). even at 'war volume' the required VA of the amp is only 350 which then gets spread over 6 drivers and together with the oversized ports (air velocity is under 10 m/s) there shouldn't be much compression if any.


**also big props to @mtg90 for finding this value driver and providing the initial experimentation and driver measurements. without those, this system wouldn't exist.
LTD thanks for the great explanation! 123db on the low end will get your room moving and shaking in all the right ways.
Would you be able to share the max output graph for this system?
 

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Power handling, output, and excursion right off the bat I would assume.
Would yield better results at covering larger areas.

For modest sized HT setup, you might as well step into the UM-18 to get much better usable LFE output/extension below the tuning point of that PA driver.

But it's the application that determines which subwoofer driver is needed.
EX: I would rather have a UM-18 in my setup, but I would rather have that PA465S you mentioned in a gym, or party outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I really love how this is probably the only site in existence that can 'see' how building 6 18" drivers, all in separate boxes, equates to a 'budget' build . :eek:

It's like ... go BIG, so you can STAY home !! Just say NO to $10 popcorn !!

Looks like a great build ! and great fun !!
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The PA 460 seems really popular right now and for the price you can' t beat it.

Would going to the next model up at PE be worth the extra money?
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pa465s-8-18-pro-subwoofer-4-vc-8-ohm--295-042
Its a great question you ask Jake. It would put me well over the budget but it wouldn't be the first time haha

What would the biggest advatage be? I need to dig in a bit more and understand the difference between the two speakers.

If its primarily higher SPL I think I may have enough but am up for conversation on it. If its a sound quality issue that may be different. Here is modeled SPL LTD02 provided me for the design.



He mentioned the he will flatten it out with DSP down to around 16hz...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Power handling, output, and excursion right off the bat I would assume.
Would yield better results at covering larger areas.

For modest sized HT setup, you might as well step into the UM-18 to get much better usable LFE output/extension below the tuning point of that PA driver.

But it's the application that determines which subwoofer driver is needed.
EX: I would rather have a UM-18 in my setup, but I would rather have that PA465S you mentioned in a gym, or party outside.
I appreciate your perspective on this. I need to consider this viewpoint as well...
 
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