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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've owned a 600m for 6 months, and have some questions about the set. I'm sure the answers are around here somewhere, but my searches haven't yielded them. The non-elite Kuro thread has over 13,000 posts, so please forgive me for not reading the whole thing!



- Calibration settings. Here are settings from coconutgrove, credited to elite-home. Are these the best settings for general use on a set which hasn't been professionally calibrated?


- Picture modes. There's a lot of talk about the various modes available. Is one mode good enough for most viewing? If not, are there best modes for movie viewing (BD), television shows (HD cable), and gaming (Wi//XBox 360)?


- Break-in. Should I run a break-in if the TV has been used for half a year? If so, should I use the FAQ's 500m break-in settings?


- Patch. I'm a little confused by this. Is this a patch to install ControlCal, to enable ISFccc calibration options, or something else?


- Smudge. I only clean my screen with the provided microfiber cloth. However, the screen has developed a smudge which I cannot remove. It is not usually visible, only when there is a lot of ambient light in the room. What's the best way to remove the smudge?



Thanks in advance for your help!
 

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I basically use D-Nice's settings with some slight modification for my KRP-500


Various modes - just use Pure mode. If you got the set for picture accuracy this is your best bet. I never notice any lag with it in games. Make sure to turn on Orbiter 2 if you're gaming to reduce chance of IR. If you're gaming or watching in a dark environment it's also a good idea to switch into Save2 mode which is more suitable for a dark environment (although can work in a mildly lighted one as well).


Break in is at the very beginning when you get your set because the phosphors age much faster at the beginning and slower as they get older. At your stage there'd probably be no benefit for running break-in. Settings most likely won't be accurate at this point.


The patch enables ISFccc calibration. If you can calibrate yourself, it's a good option. If not, just pay someone to calibrate it for you.


The smudge sounds like the AR filter somehow disintegrated in that location. If you've only been using microfiber and no chemicals it sounds like a defect in the AR coating. Since you're under warranty, I might contact Pioneer to get it taken care of for you. Of course, you could just play with your lighting environment to work around it, but you shouldn't have to. I would also be worried that if there's something wrong with the AR coating that it might continue to disintegrate and the affected area could increase. Sounds like a warranty is in order.
 

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Orbiter 1 is all you need for games.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover /forum/post/18131989


I basically use D-Nice's settings with some slight modification for my KRP-500

You're using the 500m settings on your 600m?

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Various modes - just use Pure mode. If you're gaming or watching in a dark environment it's also a good idea to switch into Save2 mode which is more suitable for a dark environment.

Awesome, I'll compare Pure and Save2. Thanks!

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Settings most likely won't be accurate at this point.

How inaccurate? Since break-in is used to age the screen's pixels evenly, wouldn't breaking my set in now cause the less-used pixels to "catch up", and have no effect on the rest?

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The patch enables ISFccc calibration. If you can calibrate yourself, it's a good option. If not, just pay someone to calibrate it for you.

Are instructions available online? Can I use someone else's settings and tweak accordingly? Eg, here ?


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The smudge sounds like the AR filter somehow disintegrated in that locationSounds like a warranty is in order.

I've tried to take a picture, but photographing a smudge is impossible. Is there anything I can try before contacting Pioneer?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by knite /forum/post/18132045


I've tried to take a picture, but photographing a smudge is impossible. Is there anything I can try before contacting Pioneer?

I would think that you could use a drop of distilled water on the micro fiber cloth but don't try that of course. I would call Pioneer and have them walk you through steps then if they think it is an issue with the panel they could set you up for service.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover /forum/post/18131989


I basically use D-Nice's settings with some slight modification for my KRP-500

Those settings weren't designed for use on a 600M. The Elite-Home settings that knite found were from D-Nice's calibration of Pure Mode on one display, and, while never claimed to be "reference settings," are much more likely to be appropriate for his 600M than any of D-Nice's 500M settings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dlplover /forum/post/18131989


The patch enables ISFccc calibration. If you can calibrate yourself, it's a good option. If not, just pay someone to calibrate it for you.

The patch also enables the ISFccc Day, Night and Auto video modes and for users to input others' settings without using calibration tools. There aren't any reference settings available here for those modes on a 600M, but at least one set of post-professional calibration 600M ISFccc Day and Night settings has been posted over on the Pioneer section of the ControlCal forum in the User Settings thread. From what I understand there tends to be more variance in 600Ms than in the 500M, and in any event to get the best results you need to obtain the services of a great professional calibrator like D-Nice.


And your smudge sounds to me like it might just be an aggressive oily fingerprint. As mentioned, use some distilled water on a corner of the supplied microfiber cloth and try to rub it off. Use a circular motion and don't be afraid to apply a little pressure. You may have to do several repeat applications of distilled water on different spots of the cloth to get rid of it completely, but I'd try that before calling Pioneer.


There is also a 500M/600M Kuro FAQ contained within the dedicated Official Pioneer 9G North American KRP-500M / KRP-600M Owner's Discussion thread. That thread is your best bet for future questions.
 

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Also, using power save functions alters the picture beyond merely dimming it and is generally only used when buzzing is an issue. I've never heard D-Nice - or any of the other respected calibrators who post here - recommending using anything other than normal power settings with these displays.
 

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You're right. It also changes the gamma and possibly some other things, which is suitable for low-light environment. It can also be used in normal light. Many people are not bothered by this, but if you have discerning eyes you will see the difference. But you are right, Pio did more than just including a dimmer. The power save options are optimized for different lighting levels.


Standard mode is optimized for max brightness to stand out in a brighter room.
 
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