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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my 75U the other day (love it) now looking to ceiling mount it. I have been looking at the cheif mounts and they look nice, I also think I could make a nice diy one as the projector just needs to sit flat and doesn't need all the fancy roll, yaw, and pitch stuff.


So, does anyone know what tread ratio the mounting holes are and how long the screws can be? I looked in the manual and can't find any info.


Also does anyone know anything about the image shift feature. It seems to move it a bit but does it degrade picture quality? If it doesn't it is a nice feature to move the projector a little closer to the ceiling.


Thanks

Josh
 

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Screws - Let me try based on how I did my 75U:


a) length - 1" (more or less, just used a toothpick to mark depth)

b) screw specs - #6-32 machine screw, as I got from Home Depot.


Sorry, I have not been able to take a picture of the setup yet. But basically attached an Omnimount speaker (nothing too fancy, the AB2 8-lb rated is good enough) to the underside of a shelf cabinet. I decided for this to allow the adjustments on yaw and pitch etc but able to fix the setting when I am happy. Just a little action on the allen wrench and I am done.


The speaker mount is then screwed to an acrylic plate and the plate has four points of screw attachments to the reversed 75U. I actually used thumb screws for easier dismount when I need to.


The cabinet has a transparent door which can be opened and slides on top. I always open it for ventilation during use, but the dust is minimized greatly with the door closed other times.


Good Luck
 

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I used 4mm bolts, about an inch long, driven into some female thumbscrews.


Image shift feature? Do you mean the V-Pos adjustment? If so, that just moves the image in the physically projected space. If you're only going to display 16:9 material, it could be of some use wrt mounting closer to the ceiling. For 4:3 though, it doesn't do you much good.


If you know of another lens-shift type feature I'm missing, please tell - I would love to be able to raise my 75U at least a few more inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the info about the screws I'll probably do something similar with 1 1/2 pipe, I may go smaller as having the cables outside isn't much of a concern.


Yes I was talking about the VPos menu item. I am using a 16:9 screen so it would be of some benefit for me. For 4:3 I'll probably use the S4:3 mode as any 4:3 source I blew up to 92' wide would look like crap. I wish this thing had a lens shift but the only one I've seen with one is the VT45.


Josh
 

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Josh...


A bit off topic here.


I remember you were interested in the NEC VT45 a couple months back. Was wondering what made you go with the 75U instead?


-ed
 

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Quote:
Originally posted by LateComer
Screws - Let me try based on how I did my 75U:


a) length - 1" (more or less, just used a toothpick to mark depth)

b) screw specs - #6-32 machine screw, as I got from Home Depot.


Sorry, I have not been able to take a picture of the setup yet. But basically attached an Omnimount speaker (nothing too fancy, the AB2 8-lb rated is good enough) to the underside of a shelf cabinet. I decided for this to allow the adjustments on yaw and pitch etc but able to fix the setting when I am happy. Just a little action on the allen wrench and I am done.


The speaker mount is then screwed to an acrylic plate and the plate has four points of screw attachments to the reversed 75U. I actually used thumb screws for easier dismount when I need to.


The cabinet has a transparent door which can be opened and slides on top. I always open it for ventilation during use, but the dust is minimized greatly with the door closed other times.


Good Luck
LateComer,


Using the Omnimount, how far down did your projector end up from the ceiling, and how far down is the image from the ceiling. Did you need to angle the projector down at all, or is it perfectly horizontal?
 

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I am at this stage of my HT project too. I am going to use the Omnimount as well. Ant shots of a 75U using the omnimount setup would be apreciated.
 

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Hi-


I purchased the Chief mount (RPA-055) for ~$160 and it was definitely worth the investment! I wound up needing to make a *slight* yaw adjustment which would have been very difficult without the mount. Also, I can pull it down and take it with me if I ever want.


However, I almost bought the CMA-110 ceiling plate but luckily they were out of stock! It is a $160 flange!!! I went to Home Depot and got a 1.5" flange, (4) 3" screws (I forget the exact size), and a 1/2"x5"x5" wood spacer for $7! The CMA-110 doesn't even come with the 1.5" pipe you need to connect it to the mount.


Anyhow, I highly recommend the mount, but would say skip the ceiling plate.


-Zak
 

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Discussion Starter #9
There were a lot of little reasons that added up.

* 75U in econo mode is silent

* extra lumen's is a help since I'm projecting on a 92' wide screen

* XGA is nice since I'm only sitting back about 1.7x screen width

* Positivie comments from this forum and projectorcentral


I think the biggest thing was in the past I have always gone cheap and figured I could tweak or work on it and get it better, in some cases I did, other's I failed misserably, I figured the extra money was worth it to have a good projector that will last me for a while.


Josh
 

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I made a more simple mount. Here's my home brew recipe:


8.5" X 11" 3/4" birch plywood

6" X 8" 3/4" birch plywood

8 rubber cone washers

4 4mm X 50mm hex head bolts ( 6X32 is not the proper thread)

2 2" x 1 1/2" PVC pipe reducers

1 1 1/2" PVC threaded male fitting

1 1 1/2" PVC threaded female fitting

6" 1 1/2" PVC pipe


First I marked the locations of the four mounting holes on the projector on the larger piece of plywood and drilled the holes. I also marked the center of that piece of plywood and drilled a 2 1/4" hole for one of the PVC reducers. The reducers I got have a hex end so I chiseled out a corresponding pattern on the underside of the plywood to get the fitting to fit flush with the surface. I then painted the plywood, inserted the PVC fitting ( I didn't glue this in as I made the hole slightly smaller than the pipe diameter and got a good friction fit)and attached the wood to projector using the 4 bolts with the rubber cone washers double stacked between the wood and the projector. ( more on that later).

Next I drilled a 2 1/4" hole in the center of the small piece of plywood and again chiseled out for hex head on the PVC fitting. I painted this as well and inserted the fitting.

Next, I cut the PVC pipe into two sections and glued a male fitting onto to one piece and the female onto the other. I glued one piece into the fitting on the small piece of plywood and the other to the fitting on the large piece of plywood.

I mounted the small piece of plywood to the ceiling and then screwed the male and female fittings together!


There is enough threads on these fittings to adjust about a half inch up or down. Not a lot so you need to be pretty accurate with your pipe lengths. I can make small up/down left/right tilt adjustments by tightening the 4mm bolts and compressing the cone washers. It just takes a small wrench and can be done easily after putting up the projector.

I can easliy take the projector down by unscrewing to the half's of the mount.

I haven't taken any pictures but I would be glad to try to explain better to anyone who asks.
 

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I have decided that I wanted the peerless mount for my PJ. It was not cheap ($170) but after saving money on a DIY screen I decided it was money well spent. However, I have the speaker mount that I was orginally going to use to make a DIY mount. If anyone wants it I will sell it for $10 plus appropriate shipping. I also have the directions in a word doc that details the procedures. It is well done but I just ran out of patience. Send me a PM if interested.

Speaker Mount link

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