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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK POSTED THIS IN THE WRONG SECTION, HERE IS ATTEMPT 2


Long time troller first time poster because I actually have something to post about!


Dumb luck has found me staring at an 8350 new in box, a recently drywalled basement and an offer for free professional painting (with sprayers and all) help!!!


Here are the specifics:


Room Size: 16' wide x 19' deep (open on one end) (minimal to no ambient light (no direct and none in the room, 4' egress window about 40' away from screen that could easily be blacked out)) (9 dimmer controlled can lights in room on 3 separate circuits, 1 circuit on the high ceiling and 2 circuits under the soffits)

8' ceilings (painted flat black, dark gray walls)

seating distance 13'

Projector lens to screen 15' (that is the furthest I can do)

Trying for 110" diagonal 16:9 screen

Ceiling mounted 8350

primary for watching prime time tv, sports on directv and bluray movies


I'm 99.9% sold on doing a paint on drywall screen (especially with the painter's help and tools).


Here is my issue: I was sold on the Silver Fire mix but my painter has told me he has access to free Goo Systems screen paint.


I did a search of the archives and any relevant Goo System searches all come up from many years ago and all related to the cost of the Goo System and its difficulty in applying (both of which I have solved or so I think).


Maybe Mississippi Man or another member can give me their 2 cents worth on Goo Systems VS MAXXMUDD VS Silver Fire in this circumstance?


As for my personal preference, I just want a nice bright popping image that will make people say WOW. I don't have a real good eye!
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Hi.


RS-MaxxMudd "Standard for moderate ambient light" is your ticket.


GOO? Crazy expensive and a three step process. Primed Wall - Base Coat (x2) - Finish Coats (x2)


But "Free GOO?" Hmmmm.....free anything is hard to resist. If it's sprayed on I'd be remiss to simply tell you not to consider it. If it's their "High Contrast Gray"...that decision must fall on your shoulders. However if it's "CRT White"...fergitabowdit.


Gosh....I got started on AVS by coming up with viable "GOO Alternatives" that eliminated a lot of steps and about 85% of the cost of Paint.


RS-MMud and Silver Fire are the eventual improvements /refinements that effectively have shunted GOO paints to "also-ran" status. I do own that stuff for my inspiration.....and the consternation that led me to go down the path I tread today.


I'd suggest however that you not depend entirely on what you can "Not see" on the Primed Wall. It's well worth applying 1-2 coats of a light Gray Primer to make defects pop out....fix 'em, the re-coat with White Primer. This would be true no matter what High Contrast paint you go with. Nothing is worse than applying a couple perfect coats of Screen Paint and then seeing a couple Nail / Screw bumps or some other Scratch / Gouge that was hidden by the bright white "Flatness" of a Primer.


Fer instance....you pay $300.00 for a GOO kit, and after two coats of Top Coat you then notice some nastiness?


Not Good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE ADVICE! I have my painter getting me the specs on the GOO SYSTEM.


I've read on a few other threads that moving the projector closer to the screen is the ticket on these 8350s. I like what someone said(maybe you) on the projector calculator optimum distance for this projector vs. the HD20.


I might be able to get it to 12' and be right over my head? Is that a good idea in this instance?
 

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the 8700 which is virtually the same projector is what Im looking at and with the vertical and horizontal shift, you MAY depending on the application be able to offset it a bit so its not in the exact center of the room. im in the process of working this out and will let you know my findings
 

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DIY Granddad (w/help)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newB24
THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE ADVICE! I have my painter getting me the specs on the GOO SYSTEM.


I've read on a few other threads that moving the projector closer to the screen is the ticket on these 8350s. I like what someone said(maybe you) on the projector calculator optimum distance for this projector vs. the HD20.


I might be able to get it to 12' and be right over my head? Is that a good idea in this instance?
OK...but he has to prime, sand, apply the Base Coats (x2) the the Top Coats (x2) via Spraying.


As I said before, done right, and done fir free, you'll have to live a very unlucky existence to not be happy in a dark room situation.


12' Throw Distance is cool, as it gets you a lot of lumens allowing you to still have a "wowser" bright image on the Cinema modes or on Low Lamp.


The HD20 cannot be spoken of in the same context as the 8350. As far as I'm concerned it's net value has dropped to that of being a PJ worth under $800.00 next to the 8350.


Now the HD1080.....? OMG.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, paint he has available is not the right one....so on to the maxxmudd (for moderate ambient light)


based on this I think I will move the screen up to about 14', that way I can still have all my wires hidden and clean install without patching too much drywall.


Hopefully I can paint the first prime gray coat this week pending wifey's holiday plans.


I reread the shag thread on painting so I think I am ready.


I probably misspoke, I was just recalling a thread where someone said the optimum throw distance on the calculators is not really the optimum for the 8350, someone said the 8350 benefits from going a bit closer compared to the HD20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As I posted over at expertmech...



I'm confused on this priming requirments:


I plan on


Gray Primer

Patch and repair

Gray Primer

(probably patch and repair again)

Killz Latex Primer (I'm back to spraying this, so 2 dusters and 2 full coats)

Then the final top Coats (2 dusters and 2 top coats)



In my scenario, would I benefit from the Eggshell finish?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by newB24 /forum/post/19639484


As I posted over at expertmech...



I'm confused on this priming requirments:


I plan on


Gray Primer

Patch and repair

Gray Primer

(probably patch and repair again)

Killz Latex Primer (I'm back to spraying this, so 2 dusters and 2 full coats)

Then the final top Coats (2 dusters and 2 top coats)

"3" full Top coats. I mentioned "2" Top Coats when referring to the GOO because that's the most you'd be able to get from a standard GOO Kit.


Quote:
In my scenario, would I benefit from the Eggshell finish?

If your referring to the Top Coats of SF, absolutely NOT!


White Primer? That's OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again...many thanks MM.


I'm sticking with the kilz primer and doing 3 full coats!


and then 2 dusters and 2 full coats of the MAXXMUDD!!!!


It is starting to come together Pepper, starting to come together.
 

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Thanks very much for posting the above information, very helpful. Completing the basement and painting the screen for my 8350.


One question I had was, can the Maxx Mudd be rolled on? If not what is the best alternative to roll on for this setup?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by sled_ride /forum/post/19646033


One question I had was, can the Maxx Mudd be rolled on? If not what is the best alternative to roll on for this setup?

The RS-MaxxMudd LL can, check it out over in the Official Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1139061


I'd advise you on getting a sprayer though. The "No Name" Graco/Earlex HVLP 2900 Spraystation for ~$60 shipped is a steal and EASY to use. I'm a klutz and even I figured it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike 01hawk /forum/post/19646663


The RS-MaxxMudd LL can, check it out over in the Official Thread:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1139061


I'd advise you on getting a sprayer though. The "No Name" Graco/Earlex HVLP 2900 Spraystation for ~$60 shipped is a steal and EASY to use. I'm a klutz and even I figured it out.


I will second this bit of advice, after hours and I mean HOURS of reading, spray your heart out!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Well, wall was lightly sanded last night, I took some photos, will post them later, going with a coat of gray primer and doing some repairs. Will take pics of that.


Got the killz paint and painter is bringing over his sprayer so we can knock out the base coats. He feels confident he can spray this out!


crosses fingers...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
OK first picture is with the 1st coat of gray primer (rolled on with a foam roller)


2nd picture is of the skimmed wall, sanded the bejesus out of it.


3rd picture is my attempt at a macro picture of the first coat of gray



So I have a bit of a dilemma, screen is 54" x 110" x 96" and is off centered on the entire back wall by 6"


I think I am going to go to the 120" diagonal screen, cheat the screen over 3" and only have a 3" off center.


Will hang the projector down 12" from ceiling, so bottom of projector and bottom of soffit will be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I know, I should have bought a gallon of the gray.


I tried to center it on the soffits and I think it looks out of whack and small on that wall!


I'm nervous about how high to go up to that soffit in the front, should I just go as high as possible and leave just 3" for the velvet trim?


I am also afraid of the right side soffit coming out and grabbing that image if I go too far right!
 

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Re: Image location.


That's why I didn't permanently mount my projector/screen until I had 'acclimated' to the room for a couple weeks.


I too wanted to center it between the door and wall, here's my first attempt:



Finally I let my OCD cave and realized the screen, while centered, looked like crap from a viewing position (it was WAAAAAY to far right and up). So now I'm about 2 feet to the left. Also 1/3 of the screen should be below eye viewing level. So I'm also 1.5 feet down or so. Looks 100 times better now from my couch.


My recommendation


1) Put that 8350 on a step ladder and play with screen size. Don't worry about image blocking at this point.

2) Once you realize how big you want to go. THEN try to approximate (via just holding the projector above your head) where the projector will finally be mounted and see if you have anything blocking the image.


The 8350 w/ it's lens shift is a very versatile projector. I highly doubt you'll have ANYTHING blocking your image depending on how you mount it and how much you lens shift.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
AH-HA...good points indeed.


I figured my sitting eye height was about 4'. I tried to keep the screen level at at least 1/3.


Going bigger will help keep me at 1/3 if not more centered.


Wonder if it would look bad if I ran my picture up closer to that black painted soffit and ran my velvet boarder right at the soffit height.



I might as well just spray the whole darn wall at this point!
 
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