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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I can't try it because it's not hooked up at this time but, when you hit the adjust button and select convergence, can you select the normalize feature or do you have to go into the sub-menu and normalize one at a time. And do you have to do it for each color, or is it global? Last question, for tonight anyways, I read a post about the cost of VDC rebuilds for the 9 PG Plus but can't seem to find it now. Anyone have the price off the top of their head for these?


Chip S.
 

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Hi Chip!


You can zero things out real quick if you got that pg control software to work. You still have to go through them individualy but it is quite fast with the mouse and being able to have multiple options on the screen. You can also just load the factory settings that come with the program but it will reset your CRT clock to zero.


Richard
 

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stefuel;


off the top of my head - I think the VDC tubes where $595 each. (just a guess)
 

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Stefuel,

If you have the setup remote just hit the function button then hit the normal button, select yes. Just go through each function button and do the same. Each entry needs to be done, its not global but specific to the freq you are running if you use this procedure. Doug
 

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You could reset the eeprom too, but this wipes all memory settings including inputs and hour meter. It does, however, put all the settings at zero. Ask Doug about the cautions about doing this too, I can't remember what they are, but I think there may be a reason why you wouldn't want to choose this option
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Doug,

My main interest is making sure that all "point" is gone. When I normalize point, do I have to do it 3 times (RGB) or just select point and hit normal?

Also, in the interest of useing more phosphor, is it OK to have high numbers for amplitude (H 91%)? Thanks,


Chip S.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I also just noticed this little problem this morning. About every 5 or 6 seconds the image does a little bump, about 1 scan line. Anyone got an idea what's causing that? Thanks,


Chip S.
 

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stefuel,

When clearing point you need to normalize each color of that signal or freq.


It might be easier to understand by thinking memory is specific to the entry you have running and for each color, if you change to a different freq or from RGB to video you would need to do the video input also.


If you stored a signal to default (what the projector will use) for that freq block, and you enter another signal within that freq block it will use the default to keep things close to being aligned. Keeping that in mind it will also use the point setting that was stored to default.


The problem here is you may normalize the point for the input your on but if thats not the default it will still be stored there.


A way to know for sure that this is cleared is to store the line your on to default after your done with your convergence, now you will know that the old default is overwritten.


There is also what I call corrupt memory and this is when the information that was entered into default before gets over or under corrected from a different phase and point cursor phase, this can get bad enough to cause banding or even humps that appear in the grid from memory thats been used up doing this.


I know your probably confused more now and there is a way to wipe it all out in a last ditch effort but I dont recommend this unless you cannot correct a banding issue. Its a lot safer to use each function button and normalize it that way then check your phase and cursor phase to be sure its correct, when you do this store the signal from the temporary line and not the default first then do the normalize of each function, if you take time to build a good signal entry the right way then store that to default you will know you havent over or under corrected and used the least amount of memory to do this. If you get totally lost just delete the entry and start over or delete all the RGB entries and start from scratch.


If you take time to do the mechanical set up the best you can get it, this will help you later as you are building the geometry.


Im pretty conservative on raster width and amplitude, I try to keep it about 1/2" from the edge. Others prefer a wider area for added contrast ratio. If you have a good set up and know the raster wont hit the edge when you switch inputs or hit a freq with no memory to hold it at a safe distance then this is up to you. There is a spec to follow to not over heat the horiz output. I keep it within spec and keep as much heat out of the projector as I can.


In the video input I do notice this bump but usually this is when you have the menus up, this might be what your seeing or from the internal test pattern its self. If this is the case I wouldnt worry about it. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Doug,

I just checked the input list. There are 4 video inputs and 11 rgb inputs saved. As I'll only be useing only 2 RGB, one for full screen and one for wide screen, should I delete them all and start over. Also that bump is happening while I'm watching a movie. I have not done anything with a memory location. I just used an existing RGB entry that was there on the list (RGB 93K). Perhaps the bump might be from the PJ looking for a higher scan rate? Damn, ECP's are so much easier to figure out.


Chip S.
 

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stefuel,

If you only have 2 RGBs signals entered that you use, I would delete them all and start over. After you do that shut the projector off and turn back on to see that you get the "unregistered signal message". You need to get rid of the corruption.


Because you are using two formats are these the same freq and polarity? You can check this by hitting the info button and checking each one. If they are I wouldnt store either to default. The reason for this being you would be over or under correcting from a format that had different amplitude settings if you enter more signals later.


Take your time on this and read what you can on the procedure and how each function works, after you enter the signal make sure you correct the tilt and cursor phase first then center your cursors for position and all three colors for static. Store that then correct the linearity and see where you are for the rasters being centered on the tube face. Shut off the red and blue and just work with the green, if you get good geometry on the green the others will follow later in the set up. Dont forget to back the blanking out and store that. Good luck. Doug


Depending on your freqs will determine how you do this from here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank's Doug. I've got it nailed down now. I was unaware of a bunch of signal entries way up in the 70's and 80's. I deleated everything and started from scratch. I shut off and restarted the PJ to confirm that they were all gone. I still however, have the slight bump in the image. Perhaps it's coming in from the DVDO. Another question, without going into detail, I'd like to know if the blind nuts that the feet are screwed into can support the weight of the PJ while inverted. In short, I need to devise a method of sliding the PJ forward for service. It fits up into a pocket and mounting with the correct distance will prevent opening the top all the way. Thank's


Chip S.
 

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strfuel,

The blind nuts can support the projector with ease, I have used these to lift the projectors with chain and a comealong many times, you dont have to worry about that. You can use point on the green to correct the bump if need be but try to find the reason for this, there is a "seagull" affect on the top and bottom on the XGs and that corrected with line distortion in the alignment menu. Might check your screen for a dip in the fabric. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Doug,

I think you misunderstood what I was desribing. About every 6 or 7 seconds the image quickly jumps up and down about a scan line or two. Also there is something else going on here that I can't figure out. The PJ is setup for desktop. If you look in each tube, the top of the raster is screwed up. With an internal test pattern brought up, while looking through each lens, the top horizontal line is seporated from the rest of the pattern and the top tips of the verticals are broken up and scattered around like a bunch of fireflys. It' outside the active image area so you don't see it, but something is not right here. I also noticed that while working within the adjust menu, the current action lets say for instance "keystone" will appear on the green and blue tubes but not the red. You can see where it is supposed to be as the area is blanked out where the words would be.


Chip S.
 

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stefuel,

Just out the door but let me think about this, what freq are you using? Turn the menu options to green if you have that function in the option/menu for now, some doublers have this type of test display and its normal, Ill need to know the progression of the source to the projector (how and what its going through) Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Doug,

First I'd like to say thank you for all your help so far, it's been a great help. For right now I've only tried std def sat and DVD. They both output via S-video to my Yamaha AV reciever which doubles as a video switcher. From there the reciever outputs S-video to my DVDO. The DVDO feeds an Extron RGB 108 Plus. The Extron indicates that it is recieving [email protected] The signal is sent through 50 feet of home brewed RGBHV cable made of quad shield cable and terminated with gold plated 75 ohm BNC connecters. The projector indicates that it is recieving 31.5 @61. I have two projectors in my room at this time and I can swap back and forth between the NEC and E-home with a quick cable swap. The E-home is working perfectly so I don't think it's a source or cable problem. On occasion the ECP exibits that funny bump, but through experiance have found that it's the result of to much convergence tweaking. A hard reset and start over from scratch clears it up.

This projector has fairly low total hours on it and after a long look around inside, it appears to never have been touched. It does have some text burn on the green and blue tube. If I can resolve these two (hopefully) small problems I'll feel better about ordering some rebuilt tubes for it. I am now able to converge this thing perfectly without useing any point. I've got to study up on the astig for this thing. The dots in the corners are triangular in shape. Thanks again,


Chip S.
 

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stefule,

The messed up pattern at the top I wouldnt be concerned with, this appears in some sources using the internal pattern, this part of the signal is the "information line" this is overscanned 10% and shouldnt affect the image. The DVDO I dont run into that much so I dont know their "personality", I assume the Extron 108+ is used for breaking out to a local monitor or for the BNC connection, I dont have my books here on the settings for that. Try running a test pattern from the DVD player, Avia or other test disc.


The vertical jump might be from the DVDO itself or a dip might be out on the interface, you didnt say if this just appears on the internal pattern or the image itself.


On the menu colors, in the green menu mode the red wouldnt display the information, just the green would.


The internal freq counter isnt perfect and not the best, but it will tell you if the freq is changing, the extrons is more accurate. Sounds like your getting there. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Doug,

Good call on the interface. I never looked at the DIP switches on the rear because I connected it, fired it up and it worked fine with the ECP as is. As is with me, if it works leave it alone. There are 10 DIP's on the rear and right now they are all in the "OFF" position.


1. Sync on green defeat on defeats auto sync on G

2. Serration remove on removes serration pulses

3. Auto power defeat on turns interface power on permanently

4. V. sync width on inc v pulse width to 500uS off decreases to 180uS

5. Grn mono out on gives mono comp output on green

6. Sep H. and V. out on provides sep H. and V. sync

7. Clamp on shortens H. sync time

8. Spare

9. Spare

10. Spare


I disconnected the source from the PJ and the test pattern cleared up completely. If you were to take a guess, what configuration would you have these switches in? I'll bet this resolves the rest of my problems.

Thanks,


Chip S.
 

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stefuel,

1 off

2 off Used to remove these pulses in LCD mostly

3 on

4 on Try both ways

5 off

6 on If you have 5 wires, off if you have 4 going to the projector

7 off Try both ways

8 not used

9 not used

10 not used


If it has vertical position adjust that as well as H position, If you had composite sync on during the signal entry and want to run seperate the signal will need to be re-entered. Best to run 5 wire.

The info button (projector) will tell you if your running sep sync or combined. They dont make this easy for understanding. www.extron.com has a good glossary of terms (click on the Technologies tab and look on the left under FAQs) and a good site to go through when you have time to read. Doug
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Ahhh, raster is all better now. Still have the little bump every 6 or 7 seconds though. Tomorrow I will delete the new setups that I made as they may be corrupt due to bad signal? I have a question about the white level adjustment. It includes a black level adjustment as well. What is the procedure for doing this? When I got this PJ all the white and black settings were at 0. I managed to get the white level watchable but the black level is way to low (no detail in dark areas). Thanks,


Chip S.
 

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stefuel,

You dont even want to know the reference white balance procedure. Try the Avia test disc and see what it gives you first. Sounds like the projector hasnt been touched and thats a good thing, if you move the video out pots your in for a long week and thats if you understand the procedure, try not to go there, if you moved one its to late. Best bang for the buck is to turn on the AKB in the info menu for a minute then shut off. Doug
 
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