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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wanted to start this thread to compare numbers for people that have had their Aboards replaced. It seems with the THX fix available to download, I'm not sure if it is going to be required for us that have had our boards replaced. Also people have been reporting different varients of LSI data for various TVs.

I want to see if Replacement Aboard values are the same across the board for the Same model TVs or not as well as factory color settings.


Please try and get as much info as possible and use the same format as below.


Here is my Info:


Model: TC-P50V10

Replacement Aboard 1/4/2010, Factory Firmware: 1.24

Upgraded online to Firmware 1.28


Peaks Soft 1.280

Peaks EEP 01.02.0697

Peaks Boot 1.00

LSI Data 0.00.0f

Stby Soft 1.00.00

Stby EEP 1.15.21

Stby ROMCOR 1.04.00

PDP Soft 02.51 (new value 02.52)

PDP EEP 51.61 (new value 51.63)

PDP FPGA 51.06 (value unchanged)

PDP PDROM 51.24 (value unchanged)

Ajax_CE 0.5.3


SM Factory Color Values on Replacement Aboard:

Cool

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV FA


Normal

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV D9


Warm

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F0

B-DRV A1

Update Note 1/30/2010:

I flashed my firmware using the THX fix and it didn't do anything. All SM settings remained the same and I don't notice any THX color difference. It just reset my menu settings back to default.

Update Note 2/20/2010:

I flashed my firmware using the Scan Board fix. Updated values are now in ( ) above.

Update Note 3/1/3010:

Updated firmware over vierracast to 1.29


If you have manually updated any other firmware such as the newest THX fix, please post your results as well.
 

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Here is my information on the new A-Board if anyone is interested.



Model: TC-P42G10

Replacement Aboard Factory Firmware: 1.24

Upgraded online to Firmware 1.28


Peaks Soft 1.280

Peaks EEP 01.01.0485

Peaks Boot 1.00

LSI Data 0.00.03

Stby Soft 1.00.00

Stby EEP 1.15.27

Stby ROMCOR 1.04.00

PDP Soft 02.51

PDP EEP 31.56

PDP FPGA 51.06

PDP PDROM 31.43

Ajax_CE 0.5.3


SM Factory Color Values on Replacement Aboard:


Cool

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV FA


Normal

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV D9


Warm

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F0

B-DRV A1


I hope this information is useful to someone.
 

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Many thanks this info has proved invaluable on my UK V10 amd has made quite an improvement even without the aboard being changed. I have not dared to run the updates though as these have not appeared on the uk support site + the version number is different 2.013uk against 1.28us
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update Note:

I flashed my firmware using the THX fix and it didn't do anything. All SM settings remained the same and I don't notice any THX color difference.
 

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Model: TC-P50G10

Replacement Aboard Factory Firmware: 1.28


Peaks Soft 1.280

Peaks EEP 01.01.0487

Peaks Boot 1.00

LSI Data 0.00.06

Stby Soft 1.00.00

Stby EEP 1.15.27

Stby ROMCOR 1.04.00

PDP Soft 2.51

PDP EEP 51.58

PDP FPGA 51.06

PDP PDROM 51.43

Ajax_CE 0.5.3


SM Factory Color Values on Replacement Aboard:


Cool

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV FA


Normal

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F8

B-DRV D9


Warm

R-CUT 80

G-CUT 80

B-CUT 80

R-DRV FC

G-DRV F0

B-DRV A1
 

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For those of you that have replaced your a boards are most of you happier with your new sm defaults or have you returned to your old sm settings and prefer them. I have been wondering what effect these new sm values would have on your panels since they are now not calibrated to panasonic factory standards. If your not satisfied I think I would call panasonic and get them to send out a calibrator on the basis that these a boards contain values that are not calibrated to your panels.


The only problem i see with this idea is you would have to explain how you knew what your SM values were.


Incidently I have an oct build tcp54v10 with sm values that are closer towards these values then alot of others who have posted there values. When comparing these values to alot of others we have higher blue and greens. I wonder how this effects our PQ and Color?
 

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Please read the caption of the picture as well as the note/comments inside the pic. My gamma is a flat 2 for some reason. Other results are very similar to what is found here


Luminance was actually a bit worse ON MY SET and was so even after THX calibration BEFORE the new SD f/w.


I am getting ready to meter the new firmware soon.




Calibrated THX (pre-FW from SD update)

R Cut = 82

G Cut = 7F

B Cut = 80


R Drv = FF (Maxed out in SM)

G Drv = EA

B Drv = B3


For some reason, they capped the R Drv a bit too much. As you can see, the THX issue is its RED DEFICIENT.


I could adjust B & G to compensate R a bit. But Green is spot on and so is blue. In THX after small adjustments to R & B only.




>>>>> POST SD update results coming up....

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Since these new aboards had 1.24 or 1.28 from factory w/ the applied thx fix, I would advise to post your AFTER THX fix. Other modes made have been affected as well that may result in better readings after the THX fix.

Thanks
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiotitis /forum/post/18042812


[snip]


Calibrated THX (pre-FW from SD update)

R Cut = 82

G Cut = 7F

B Cut = 80


R Drv = FF (Maxed out in SM)

G Drv = EA

B Drv = B3


For some reason, they capped the R Drv a bit too much. As you can see, the THX issue is its RED DEFICIENT.


I could adjust B & G to compensate R a bit. But Green is spot on and so is blue. In THX after small adjustments to R & B only.


[snip]


Don't be reluctant to reduce green and blue. The green will stay at 100%.


Larry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/18043917


Don't be reluctant to reduce green and blue. The green will stay at 100%.


Larry

I will retry it, thanks. Previously, I had got all 3 of them together adjusting green (see attachment) but they were not absolutely flat. But almost. The latter result where red is deficient in the grayscale by a tiny bit - It seemed to make a positive difference with regard to skin tones (which is where I found it noticeable). It was minor. But things that looked very slightly off/saturated were now looking awesome. I checked my primaries and secondaries in both Custom & THX. Both have very high deltaE's. Red being the highest delta of 65. I tested it with a small window of 100% red. Outside of the SM of course.


I am going to recheck my Custom. I got great results with everything in Custom except for the primary & secondary deltas. They were still very high. Primaries were about 40 for 2 of them.


As I understand it, w/b means mixing the perfect ratio of R/G/B. And color is layered on top of that. However, each color must be pure. IF my red (& others) are that off, then it may produce a vibrant image. I am wondering if for eg, Red has oversaturation in the primary, then reducing it just a bit in the grayscale would compensate. Also, for Custom, my color is set at 26 and anything above 30 will produce unrealistic tones. However, some are setting them higher. A reason, I suspect is that their primaries are not being oversaturated.


This could be wrong. But I also feel that people with the new a-boards are not going to have such high deltaE's for the primary (& secondaries). And it may have fixed something else - like color decoding for eg. So if some of us have higher deltas for primaries, then we will most likely not have the most accurate color. Backing the color down will fix one issue of but it will come with a tradeoff to other colors.


Any comments/suggestions ?
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackal2001 /forum/post/18043494


Since these new aboards had 1.24 or 1.28 from factory w/ the applied thx fix, I would advise to post your AFTER THX fix. Other modes made have been affected as well that may result in better readings after the THX fix.

Thanks

That was my intention. But the TV is not reading the SD card with just those 4 files on it. I formatted it with their SD formatter as well. And even set Play SD automatically to off/on. When I put a jpeg on it, the green led would light up and it would show that pic from the card. I am a bit frustrated. Hope to retry with another card and formatted with another machine. Will post POST results after that.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiotitis /forum/post/18045190


That was my intention. But the TV is not reading the SD card with just those 4 files on it. I formatted it with their SD formatter as well. And even set Play SD automatically to off/on. When I put a jpeg on it, the green led would light up and it would show that pic from the card. I am a bit frustrated. Hope to retry with another card and formatted with another machine. Will post POST results after that.

i did the new thx upgrade with a Polaroid SD Card
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by magdielito /forum/post/18045250


i did the new thx upgrade with a Polaroid SD Card

I got the fw to load now. Was a problem with my laptop drivers. I will post back information soon.


Btw, you are not accepting private msgs. So I could not respond to your msg.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiotitis /forum/post/18045180


I will retry it, thanks. Previously, I had got all 3 of them together adjusting green (see attachment) but they were not absolutely flat. But almost. The latter result where red is deficient in the grayscale by a tiny bit - It seemed to make a positive difference with regard to skin tones (which is where I found it noticeable). It was minor. But things that looked very slightly off/saturated were now looking awesome. I checked my primaries and secondaries in both Custom & THX. Both have very high deltaE's. Red being the highest delta of 65. I tested it with a small window of 100% red. Outside of the SM of course.


I am going to recheck my Custom. I got great results with everything in Custom except for the primary & secondary deltas. They were still very high. Primaries were about 40 for 2 of them.


As I understand it, w/b means mixing the perfect ratio of R/G/B. And color is layered on top of that. However, each color must be pure. IF my red (& others) are that off, then it may produce a vibrant image. I am wondering if for eg, Red has oversaturation in the primary, then reducing it just a bit in the grayscale would compensate. Also, for Custom, my color is set at 26 and anything above 30 will produce unrealistic tones. However, some are setting them higher. A reason, I suspect is that their primaries are not being oversaturated.


This could be wrong. But I also feel that people with the new a-boards are not going to have such high deltaE's for the primary (& secondaries). And it may have fixed something else - like color decoding for eg. So if some of us have higher deltas for primaries, then we will most likely not have the most accurate color. Backing the color down will fix one issue of but it will come with a tradeoff to other colors.


Any comments/suggestions ?


You are getting very confused between grayscale color temperature and primary color accuracy. For the purposes of this thread, the two should be considered totally separately -- the two are very different items. I suggest that you do some serious study of the Kal's "Greyscale & Colour Calibration For Dummies." A link is in my sig.


Larry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/18050067


You are getting very confused between grayscale color temperature and primary color accuracy. For the purposes of this thread, the two should be considered totally separately -- the two are very different items. I suggest that you do some serious study of the Kal's "Greyscale & Colour Calibration For Dummies." A link is in my sig.


Larry

+1

Don't look at your colors until you get the greyscale done. Lowering blue will increase your red. If you end up at 99 instead of 100 big deal. If your DE is under 3 it is not noticeable to the human eye anyway. The reasons we all strive to get under 1 De is because we all strive for the perfect set and it is fairly easy to get there on these sets.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnymac51 /forum/post/18050119


+1

Don't look at your colors until you get the greyscale done. Lowering blue will increase your red. If you end up at 99 instead of 100 big deal. If your DE is under 3 it is not noticeable to the human eye anyway. The reasons we all strive to get under 1 De is because we all strive for the perfect set and it is fairly easy to get there on these sets.

I was doing the grayscale first. All I was saying was if there were high deltas (like 20+) in the colors, then I wonder if reducing that ratio of that color in the grayscale by a very tiny percentage would kind of compensate. I realize lowering/increasing color reduces the color deltas to some degree.
 

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Can you'll please post to this thread PLUS the decoding thread (more active) if & when Panasonic sends you'll a new update - possibly again done by a tech.


Per this thread http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=1617


If they make more refinements, you'll guys who have been test subjects will need to get them too. If Panasonic updates the firmware (minor) revision # or some relevant data, then all of us that have 1.28 (Viera cast/ manual SD update with a diff 1.28 / new a-boards ) should all get their changes. I hope they do the latter.


Please keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I haven't heard anything at all from Panny on a newer THX firmware. That firmware that we all applied was had a release date of 1/20/2010. It takes time to get it out to the techs, etc. I don't think there will be another THX fix.... If I understand what you are saying correctly.
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Audiotitis /forum/post/18051506


I was doing the grayscale first. All I was saying was if there were high deltas (like 20+) in the colors, then I wonder if reducing that ratio of that color in the grayscale by a very tiny percentage would kind of compensate. I realize lowering/increasing color reduces the color deltas to some degree.


It doesn't work that way. You are still confusing grayscale color temperature with color accuracy.


You need a color management system to adjust color accuracy. The Panasonics have no CMS.


Larry
 

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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryInRI /forum/post/18057871


It doesn't work that way. You are still confusing grayscale color temperature with color accuracy.


You need a color management system to adjust color accuracy. The Panasonics have no CMS.


Larry

Thanks Larry. I was just speculating. But you've cleared it up. Yes I know a CMS is to be used for color calibration. I was not trying to say color could be calibrated this way.


If only it were affordable, one could purchase an external product like AVS Foundry (if I remembered right) to do this.
 
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