AVS Forum banner

1 - 20 of 36 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I have been saving for a sub and I am getting close to my budget of a $1000. I really am strugling between diy and ID sub. I do not know how to model a speaker enclosure but woodworking is something that I am good at. I do not care to go thru the hassle of design and build if at my price point the ID subs are close performance wise. I would appreciate some opinion if someone who has experience with both could point me in the right direction.


history

I currently have polk psw505 which I think works well. Its 95% for HT. I would like more down low but mostly I feel that i need more because of what i read on here. My reciever is Onkyo RC180 running audyssey; sub to the lfe channel.


Specifics

living room is 16x12 8' ceilings. one large 6' opening to a 12x20 room and a 3 wide opening to a stairway. Needs to have decent WAF. I only have one place to put it per the wife (No multiples) front of soundstage in the corner of room approx. 9' from main listening position. I would rather go up than wide. If it came in less than 18" wide would be great.


I was thinking 2 TCsound 12" epiks front firing and front ported in the same box powered by a inuke nu3000dsp amp. Although i dont know how big the box would need to be. Would a DA 15 outperform the TC 12?? For ID I was considering the HSU VTF15.


Thanks in Advanced

volt2amp
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,645 Posts
The best thing about DIY is that you can custom build the enclosures to suit your needs. For example, if you want to use the sub as an end table, you can set the height to whatever you want that would be most convenient for setting glasses on.


As for performance, DIY rules because you can build ridiculously huge boxes which increases efficiency. Forget the 12's and aim for some 15's. No reason to sell yourself short. There's few subwoofer options right now, but the Dayton RS 15" drivers in pairs can work.


*edit*

Here's another thing to think about. If you don't have the wood working tools to build an enclosure and you have no plans on building anything else, it'll be cheaper to buy an ID sub. In order to get started you'd need a saw, router, clamps, router bits, and whatever you need to finish the sub. That can be a couple hundred bucks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,336 Posts
"Why not just copy someone else's proven design?"


where is the fun in that? :)


yeah...yeah...i know what you mean.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,336 Posts
how good are your veneering skills?


something like these (in the background 6 x 12" subs e.a.). ;-)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6

Quote:
Originally Posted by Looneybomber /forum/post/20840344


If you don't have the wood working tools to build an enclosure.

I do have all the tools, and lots of experience with woodworking.






Mpray1983 "Why not just copy someone else's proven design? "


Whos proven design?





LTD02 "how good are your veneering skills?"


Those look spectacular. But probably over my budget..




Would the 2 tcsounds 12" be better than one DA Titanic???


volt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,542 Posts
You have identified your budget and that you have the necessary woodworking tools and skills. This is good. The next step would be to take a look around your space and determine what size of subwoofer you can deal with. Assign some dimensions to it. In subwoofers bigger is better and more efficient, but everyone has some practical limits, so it is best to determine what you can live with. Otherwise you will get suggestions for huge subwoofers that may be unreasonable for your application.


I would suggest building 2 separate enclosures if you can that can be placed in different locations. This will usually smooth out the bass response throughout the listening area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,163 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,645 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1
LTD02 is on the money. An array of 4 Dayton RSS390HF-4 15" woofers in a 18"W x 72"H x 26"D box, being driven by a Behringer EP2000 in bridged mode (1100 watts) should get you 115db at 21hz, with xmax being reached at 13hz. The woofers and amp would come in under $1000, leaving you enough for a couple sheets of MDF at least.
For just $20 more bucks, I'd upgrade to the EP4000. Not for the power gains, but for the energy and heat savings going from a class AB amp to an H.
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-EP40.../dp/B001U5JFNM
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
574 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21,336 Posts
"Those look spectacular. But probably over my budget.."


alpine makes some good 12"s. maybe not 8 for the budget, but perhaps 6. :)


good luck whatever you choose! post a build thread in any case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
oh yes, I am spending my time learning winisd. Winisd is really starting to help me understand how tune and box size make a difference. Really hard to find a variety of home theater specific drivers that are actually in stock. Also really has me considering about tearing out a some walls to make space for a sub.


I have alot to ponder...



No one really stated any thoughts about the ID crowd though. ??? Do they compare?? I mean could I expect to get HSU VTF-15 performance with a 15" dayton driver and a 500 watt bash amp in a LLT build?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,512 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by volt2amp /forum/post/20868886


oh yes, I am spending my time learning winisd. Winisd is really starting to help me understand how tune and box size make a difference. Really hard to find a variety of home theater specific drivers that are actually in stock. Also really has me considering about tearing out a some walls to make space for a sub.


I have alot to ponder...



No one really stated any thoughts about the ID crowd though. ??? Do they compare?? I mean could I expect to get HSU VTF-15 performance with a 15" dayton driver and a 500 watt bash amp in a LTT build?

No, because that HSU is a ported sub. The RSS390HO would basically give you equivalent performance in a ported box that size though
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,476 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by volt2amp /forum/post/20868886


No one really stated any thoughts about the ID crowd though. ??? Do they compare?? I mean could I expect to get HSU VTF-15 performance with a 15" dayton driver and a 500 watt bash amp in a LTT build?

In normal times when drivers are available DIY has a HUGE advantage because we use Pro audio amps (more power less $$$) and we have less box restrictions. Sadly the DIY subwoofer marketing is going through a tough period right now.


I have not modelled the 15" dayton driver but I would assume it should compare well to the VTF-15 in a ported design with similar power. The VTF-15 is around $900 so with that $900 you can get a Berhringer EP4000 (go with pro amps over plate amps) and 2 15" Dayton drivers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,519 Posts
I'm sure the dayton HF (if that is the one he is talking about) will model much bigger than the VTF-15 subwoofer. From memory isn't it around 10 cu ft optimum. Sorry poxy winisd don't run on a mac so cant double check.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I hope i am not making a mistake but I think I will order an ID Sub. An Svs Pc-12nsd to be specific.


The selection of available drivers on the market today is what really makes my decision.


volt
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,512 Posts

Quote:
Originally Posted by volt2amp /forum/post/20881262


I hope i am not making a mistake but I think I will order an ID Sub. An Svs Pc-12nsd to be specific.


The selection of available drivers on the market today is what really makes my decision.


volt

You do realize you could build 2 ported 12" subs with a DSP pro amp, for the cost of that single SVS right?
 
1 - 20 of 36 Posts
Top