[audimushroom]

I've got a low hr 1208/2 with clean tubes good output.


We got a good focus, 960p @72hz showed scanlines so thats good...

or is this really too high to be stable?

Next day after all gone cold, I fired up and let the PJ warm up for a while.


I did notice that there had been a shift of about 1cm to the right, I thought it would sort it itself out when it was fully warmed up, nope still there 1hr later, I adjusted the PJ Horizontal Phase and that appeared to fix it, I went out and PJ was turned off.. Later I returned and the right shift had come back as if I had not adjusted it earlier

When it was re-adjusted the change did not appear to stick, as soon I come out of the barco menus the shift resumed, why would this be?

? Also why would it change so much from when it was setup.

Also when its adjusted back to the left I notice a bright line appears yet I am nowhere near the raster edge any ideas?


Also would you expect the black in the source to be same level as the black in the background of the barco menus? Such as when movie credits are rolling...


There is also a kink in the convergence, I've read this may not be due to a convergence board fault but can be something else bandwidth related, comments please.


I also have the DVI board from Greg and this is fed from a Lumagen HDP with DVD, Blu-ray and HDDVD.


PJ has been professionally ISF calibrated


comments on all the above would be most welcome...

 

[zGman]

Well I know it's unlikely, but that sounds similar to a fun

experience I had with a machine that had the "orbiting"

board installed and enabled, and set to "slow"


There's some good Barco set-up tips at this link...

http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...r=asc&&start=0


G

 

[none74]

I had a 1208s/2 for a while, mounted it on the ceiling and everything. What I found was that it drifted a LOT until I did a very good mechanical setup. There are a lot of ways to get Barco's dialed in without using the electronic controls. Raster centering, raster sizing, and physical placement of the projector are very important for stable operation in Barco's.

Its been years since I had a Barco, so I've forgotten the specifics of the baseline setups, but if you're doing it all with electronic controls, that's your problem...

 

[Ile]

Sometimes Barco can sync to some old memory block if there is some near new one and that could have different raster centerings. Remove all unused blocks.


Use always genlock patterns or source for adjustments, these two use actual timings from source. Internal patterns have different timings what your source and picture is going to be in different place.


It could also be problem from source (pc), if you had different timings in first time. For example Nvidia drivers custom resolution timings wont always save properly and picture is moved when you turn pc on next time.


Use 50/50 raster centerings for R/B from menu and use v/h pots from boards.
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout2.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout3.shtm

 

[audimushroom]



Quote:
Originally Posted by none74 /forum/post/15401872


I had a 1208s/2 for a while, mounted it on the ceiling and everything. What I found was that it drifted a LOT until I did a very good mechanical setup. There are a lot of ways to get Barco's dialed in without using the electronic controls. Raster centering, raster sizing, and physical placement of the projector are very important for stable operation in Barco's.

Its been years since I had a Barco, so I've forgotten the specifics of the baseline setups, but if you're doing it all with electronic controls, that's your problem...

Thanks for ideas, there has been an excellent mechanical setup with all settings set at 50/50 and there is not a great deal of electronic control been required hence my query

 

[audimushroom]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ile /forum/post/15402572


Sometimes Barco can sync to some old memory block if there is some near new one and that could have different raster centerings. Remove all unused blocks.


How would I know which is safe to delete, I don't want to lose any settings.


Use always genlock patterns or source for adjustments, these two use actual timings from source. Internal patterns have different timings what your source and picture is going to be in different place.


Yep only used source for adjustments...


It could also be problem from source (pc), if you had different timings in first time. For example Nvidia drivers custom resolution timings wont always save properly and picture is moved when you turn pc on next time.


Right my source is a Lumagen Scaler with a PS3(set to 1080i) a Toshiba EP35 HDDVD Player and a Denon 2900 SDI DVD player, the Lumagen output is set to 960p @ 72hz, this has been the same right from the start of setup.


Use 50/50 raster centerings for R/B from menu and use v/h pots from boards.
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout2.shtm
http://www.curtpalme.com/Barco808_Layout3.shtm

Yep this was done...

Yep this was done...

 

[MadMrH]

Hi,


Do you mean the conv. is still good but the picture has shifted over about 1cm....


The Lumagen you can adjust the output - shift it......


At a guess this might be it, could be that a "save" was missed - easy to do when you have lots to setup.....



Black in source - I need to look into this some time as well, my Blu Ray player has a higher black level than my HD DVD I notice......


Post a pic of the kink in the conv. Often you see this on the left hand side,

 

[Ile]



Quote:
Originally Posted by audimushroom /forum/post/15404390


How would I know which is safe to delete, I don't want to lose any settings.

Press text button with movie and compare values to block list.


I read your first post again and got idea. For some reason raster was moved, arching or tube short can cause raster to move or drifting in some of hsift board component. Convergence board does not adjust raster centerings, just other zones. Then you used Hphase for moving raster and that leaves side blankings to original positions.


When you are at Hphase adjustment mode blankings are disabled, because you have to see whole raster to make this adjustment correctly. Then you exit from Hphase and blankings are enabled and it appears that picture haven't moved at all, because edge is blanked.


Adjust picture with Hphase little to right from raster center, this helps with left side convergence with high resolutions -> beam have more time to stabilize. Then adjust side blankings correctly and finally center picture to center of tube with raster centering. Converge if needed...


What black level settings you have in source and scaler? Standard or TV setting (16-235) could cause elevated black. Some cards works better with computer color space (0-255), it could be enhanced or monitor in menu.

 

[MadMrH]



Quote:
Originally Posted by Ile /forum/post/15411571


Adjust picture with Hphase little to right from raster center, this helps with left side convergence with high resolutions -> beam have more time to stabilize. Then adjust side blankings correctly and finally center picture to center of tube with raster centering. Converge if needed...

Totally agree with the concept of avoiding the non stable start of the beam .

 

[none74]



Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMrH /forum/post/15404451


Hi,




Black in source - I need to look into this some time as well, my Blu Ray player has a higher black level than my HD DVD I notice......

This is one maddening aspect to the new HD format players.


I've noticed that it seems as if ALL players put out some kind of signal much of the time, even when there is no video present, yet the level of that signal seems to vary quite a bit between the players.


I have a buddy with a G90, we tried to do a universal setup for HD from BD/HD DVD and ended up having to compromise on a black level which allowed him to adjust brightness up or down a few clicks to compensate for the WIDELY varying differences in the "no signal" level from his various HD players.

Funny thing was, when you watch the players through the projectors during the players boot up cycle, you can see there is a point at which it starts to send a "blank" signal which then is the baseline of a "no video" condition, yet that condition clearly has an elevated black level from the real *no signal* condition which occurrs before it is fully booted up.


To me it appears there is just no standard with these HD players, just like every disc appears to be mastered at different black levels...quite frustrating...

 

[MadMrH]

I will look into the black level issue some more when my Boards arrive back........


Currently my Blended 909's have most boards on Greg's workbench undergoing some mods - 1.3 HDMI inputs for my 909's, power smooth, neck upgrades, video chain upgrades other bits.............my dream system.............


Once back black level will be looked into - "IF" I can just offset inputs to the TVONE units then great, but I think it will be more than that..........Sad but in general it seems Blu Ray players have a higher black level than HD DVD - Just my experience with nearly all HD DVD players, XA1,XA2,XE1,EP35,EP10 might of had a couple of others.....

vs Samsung 1000, Sony S1, Pana BD30, Denon 3800 couple of others along the way.......



Any more news on this 1208/2 ????

 

[audimushroom]

Thanks for all suggestions

The answer was....

A combination of wrong block I had 2 blocks at 72hz and blanking, so it had'nt drifted at all...which is good news.


I've also found that the Lumagen was set for Video level which is not as low as PC level, if I toggle between these there is a small but noticable difference, If I go for the PC level that crushes the blacks, would need to be re-calibrated I guess...


There is a difference in input black level between HD DVD and Blu-ray as Andy said...I'd be interested in any progress on this...


I have a couple more questions on the 1208.


I have gregs board as DVI input and thus have lost a low level input(input 1 is disabled), to set Astig the manual states it must be done at 15khz, is there an alternative that is acceptable? It has been tried at 72hz but it was difficult to defocus and see the dot change shape, one possible option is to remove the DVI board, reinstall standard and sort out asting, would this work, will changing the RGB switcher and Port 3 card change the astig settings or are they stored seperately and be unaffected? I know not to use the barco astig because the dots are not round...


Setting the G2, the article says I need extension boards, are these available?

I guess this is because that pot is not accessable without..

has anyone done G2 successfully without extension boards?