[PAP]

I built a wooden hushbox for my DLP projector. Lined it with Sonex and bought the high transmission glass pane at atlanta scientific as posted here earlier.


Overall the thing is great - it is almost totally silent now in my room (the fan on my DISH JVC VCR is louder than the projector) and the image is great


BUT


Heat seems to be a problem http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif The way mine is installed, it is "straddled" over two joists overhead. That is to say, the front few inches (where the air intake on the plus is) is right below one intra-joist span, and the back part is under another. I have about 10 inches of space where the fan blows out the hot air to the side of the hushbox, and basically the entire top of the thing is open to the joist space above.


I had assumed that given hot air rises... and that I had the front part of the projector in an area where cool air could come into the box that I would get some natural air circulation and it would suffice. However, after running a whole movie, if I open it up, all the cables are fairly warm and I think it is too hot (although it has never shut down due to heat).


I have seen those of you with super fancy installs of bathroom fans, etc. However, while I appreciate your approach, lets just say my construction skills are not quite up to that level plus I have tried to make minimal inpact to my house.


I can get some 12V radio shack fans that I could place above and have air blowing into the hushbox, or I could even run a bathroom vent fan from about 10 feet away and run the intake hose back into the hushbox. I'm not sure which would work better.


The big problem, however, is I have no idea how to switch either one of those so that they come on when needed and off when not. Either some sort of temperature sensor, or something related to power draw from the projector, but either way I'm clueless. I can do wiring and basic electrical, but when it comes to relays and switching I'm out of my element.


Could anyone help with this problem? How can I switch a fan on/off as needed without manual control?


------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen

 

[Jungle]

PAP,


Do a search of the Theater Construction forum for "hushbox" (or maybe "hush" and "box"). You will find some threads with info about a device which you plug in to a wall socket that does exactly what you want. The device has an outlet on it that switches on when the temperature gets past a certain point and turns off after it cools down. You could simply plug the fans in to this thing and it would turn them on and off for you as needed. I think it was only about $50 or so. I can't remember who makes it or exactly what it is called (not much help, huh?), but you should be able to find it with a search.

 

[Art Lloyd]

Pap,

Go to Sears and checkout a $20 switch made to turn on lights and vac when one turns on a powersaw, etc. May wourk out. Art

 

[PAP]

You guys have helped with suggestions about switching but the problem is I have no information about exactly what to buy to do this.


The suggestion about a switch from Sears I'll look into, but basically that is exactly what I want - something that switches the power on when the projector powers up. The problem is where to find one! The local radio shack guy was totally clueless when I asked this question to him http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif


I don't usually require such bottle-feeding of information, and I apologize, but I've spent time asking and trying to find what I want, and although I understand the concept of what we're talking about, actually implementing it is something else.


The other thing is that due to the space constrictions of my room and design, I was not able to put any filtration at all in place. I did take my 200 MPH commercial gas powered blower down into the basement and let that thing blow the heck out of the cavity above the ceiling tiles a couple days before I put the projector in. I figured after that, the low speed fan from the projector shouldn't be stirring much up! http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif My wife thought I was nuts, by the way and man what a racket that thing makes inside http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/eek.gif


Anyway, look forward to solving this problem with your help guys. And if I ever get a digital camera, I might even take some pics of my hushbox just to show that not all are as fancy as the ones in most threads here....




------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen

 

[pcostanz]

PAP, You need to purchase about 25' of ROMEX wire. It's basically 2-way + ground housewire. It has a white (hot) black (neutral) and a bare copper wire (ground). You need to wire this into an existing power circuit in your house, preferably a nearby wall plug or light switch.


You need to purchase a "light switch". Now, lutron makes some good wide toggle switches, but the difference is the way it looks, you simply are buying a wall light switch. That's it. You wire this up with a new wall plug that will be specifically for your projector. If you need further help, ask the guy in the electrical section of HOME DEPOT or your local hardware store, not Radio Shack.


Hope this helps.



------------------

-Peter

 

[pcostanz]

PAP, "Heat seems to be a problem"... Uhm, this & noise have been my two greatest foes that I have been battling for the past few months. I run a DLS8 projector in a hushbox and it has really shut the noise out, until I added a decently powered fan, now I hear the fan. The solution is to buy a 100.00 bathroom fan. Wire it into the same power as your projector and make it switched. That way you can be assured that the fan is on when the projector is on. I have yet to do this, so I leave the fan on 24/7, but the air is filtered with a 3m micron particle filter so this is ok. Also, the fan I use is a cheap $15.00 2.0 sones lutron bathroom fan.


The last problem I need to resolve after upgrading my fan and putting it on at switch is the install a thermostat or temperature probe with an alarm, so if the temp ever does get to hot and the fan gives out, I get a warning. Anyone know how to do this?


You can see my hushbox at http://home.columbus.rr.com/baba/HT/HT.html


------------------

-Peter

 

[Gary P. Gibbs]

Quote:

Originally posted by PAP: The local radio shack guy was totally clueless when I asked this question to him http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif

This reminds me of their motto "You've got questions. We've got blank stares"



------------------

Gary


STOP DVI/HDCP!

DVI/HDCP! ~= HD-DIVX!!!

DO NOT SUPPORT JVC or anyone else who supports this!

 

[Patrick Bennett]

For my g-11, I've got about 15-20 ft of 6" flex-duct going from the back of

the hush box, up through the ceiling, and out through the side of the house via a dryer vent. About 5 ft prior to the outside of the house, I've got a 250cfm inline fan that is wired to a 115v relay. I've then got regular thermostat wire from the relay to a standard thermostat inside the hush box. I simply set the temperature on the thermostat that I want the fan to turn on (ie: Cool mode, temp at 76 - if it's hotter than 76, the thermostat will complete the circuit to the relay). Woila - I've got ventilation from my hushbox only when necessary (the thermostat is inside the enclosure that the exhaust from the projector is routed to the duct).


There are a few pics of the theater at: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/Album...654&a=12500765

I think there are some hushbox pics there.

 

[PAP]

OK, so now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Let me ask a couple questions here:


1) where does the thermostat get power? Don't most of them take 12 or 24V current?


2) Is a 115V relay something I can walk into radio shack and ask for or can order online?


With what you are describing, think I've got a chance here http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/smile.gif


Jungle - that ductstat thing looks interesting, but I'm afraid it will be too big the limited space I have in my hushbox. IT looks pretty big.


Gary - blank stares indeed. Gone are the days when the guys in Rat shack actually knew something about electronics. that is for sure. Pretty much like the salesmen in audio stores that used to know something about audio... I think all these people made millions on the net and are down in the carribean somewhere....





------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen

 

[Patrick Bennett]

OK, so now I feel like I'm getting somewhere. Let me ask a couple questions here:
Quote:

1) where does the thermostat get power? Don't most of them take 12 or 24V current?

It's just a standard digital-display thermostat which takes batteries.

Quote:

2) Is a 115V relay something I can walk into radio shack and ask for or can order online?

I'm not sure - I'm not an electrician. You just need something to complete a low-voltage circuit (ie: a standard themostat) and use that to turn on power to a separate hard-wired 110 device (like an in-line duct fan).


For the fan you get, just make sure it can handle a bit of static pressure. The first fan I bought was down to 80cfm at 0.05 SP. The fan I have now is 250 at 0 sp, and is only down to 180 at 0.5 SP. 0.5 SP is supposedly the kind of pressure a ventilation system would see for an entire 'average house'.

 

[Mark Hoy]

A LCD Remote thermostat could also be placed into a hush box so that

you could remotely monitor the interior temp of the box.


------------------

JVC G1000 DILA

Stewart Greyhawk

Sony: SAT-B3, DTC-100,STR-DA777ES Receiver

Toshiba: SD-3109 DVD

Proscan 27" TV

B&W: DM601, CC6, DS6B, 800ASW speakers

 

[PAP]

LOL, I already ran the wiring to the projector and am quite familiar with the "light switch" concept http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/wink.gif


The problem with that approach, however, is that if someone hits the switch before I power down the projector, the fan cuts out with a hot bulb and this is not good on the projector. The projector needs constant power, and the fan does not. While I could easily run a switched circuit to the fan, that means one more task when trying to watch a movie, and if it gets forgotten then the projector overheats. Thus the desire to have it automated...




------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen

 

[woodworker]

PAP:

I just got back in town and saw your thread. I, too, juggled many different ideas for handling heat in my hushbox. Rather than mess with a thermostat setup, I used a single fan switched on by a Sears switch that turns the fan on whenever the projector is on (even when the lamp is off = cool-down mode). The Sears part number is 00924031, cost is $19.95.


I found this solution to be simple and effective. And I don't have to remember to turn on a switch (or worry about forgetting to turn one off).


Look at my website to see a pick.


Hope this helps...



------------------

Perry
www.woodht.homestead.com

 

[Jungle]

OK, I figured out what I was trying to tell you about early. The product is called a DuctStat and can be found online or at Home Depot for about $40. Do a web search and you will find out more info on how it works, but I think that this is pretty much what you need.

 

[PAP]

Woodworker - this is EXACTLY what I wanted! I think this is what Art was talking about earlier, but local sears folks are clueless (small town, not a big store) so with the part number provided I'm looking good!


The only question I have is: is the current draw that trips the switch adjustable? If not, can I assume that the low amount of current the projector draws when on "standby" is not enough to keep the switch open? Only when it is running I assume.


Calling Sears right now! I owe you one.


Oh, btw, nice website and great pictures. I admire your woodworking ability - my corners are never square and my doors never line up with less than an 1/8" gap http://www.avsforum.com/ubb/frown.gif


------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen


[This message has been edited by PAP (edited 04-24-2001).]

 

[woodworker]

PAP:


I was worried about the current draw, too. It is not adjustable. However, I can tell you that it works for several different projectors. I have helped others with this problem and I haven't heard of a projector that triggers the switch in "standby" mode.


With my DILA, the switch is triggered in "active" mode and during cooldown (lamp off), but not in standby mode, so it works well. It's at least worth a try. At worst, you can return the switch.


Also, notice that two outlets are "switchable". One AVS forum member used his extra outlet to control lighting as well. I'm sure it can also be used to trigger a remote control screen, audio epuipment, etc.


By the way, I live in a metro area of 1.2 million. None of the Sears stores here knew of this switch. They told me there was no such thing! Then, when I supplied the part number, they realized they had it in stock!




------------------

Perry
www.woodht.homestead.com

 

[PAP]

Well, the store even had it in stock! I now have this thing in hand and just have to find a fan to go with it. Do you think blowing IN air or sucking air OUT of the hushbox is a better idea.


I was thinking of putting a flexible tube run to a fan and putting it right next to the output of the projector, thus "sucking" the hot air away. I'm not sure how I can wire a bathroom type fan to a regular plug that can plug into this switcher, or whether there are 110v plug in fans that would do the same thing.


BTW, for anyone who would come across this thread in the future, www.sears.com has the item under search if you put in part number 00924031 as supplied by my main man Woodworker. Shows a picture as well.


Patrick - where did you get your inline fan?



------------------

Lex MC1/Sunfire CG/Hales Rev3's x3/M&K SS150 tripoles/Quadscan/Plus UP1100/Homemade screen

 

[woodworker]

PAP:


Good job!


Because my hushbox is open to a space measuring 1 foot by 25 feet by 12 feet (size of the room x 1 foot drop ceiling), I used a 4" standard dryer hose connected to a radio shack fan (110v wired directly to a Home Depot plug terminal) to blow air in (inlet is from about 10 feet away through louver in drop ceiling).


If my space were more confined (i.e., just the size of the hushbox) I would blow and suck, both. (just to head them off at the pass, no lewd comments needed...)


------------------

Perry
www.woodht.homestead.com

 

[Jeff Beaver]

Pap,


This may not be of help, but I have a similar problem. I've got two Radio Shack 12V fans that I want to turn on when the projector is running. My solution was pretty low tech, but at least it didn't cost much. I bought a small power strip -- the kind with an illuminated on/off switch -- and mounted it on a closet wall next to my equipment rack. The fan transformers plug into the power strip and the power strip plugs into a switched outlet on the back of my Yamaha receiver. The fans go on whenever I turn on the receiver. Can't watch a movie without the receiver being on.


One advantage of DC fans is that when they get less than the design voltage they run slower, but also much quieter. In my case they do the job at 6V and are almost completely silent.


One other thing. When I first installed the projector I decided to exhaust it into a storeroom behind the closet wall where the projector is mounted. I got some dryer duct, fitted it to the exhaust port on the back of the projector, and proceeded to cut a hole in the wall. Well, it was a dark and stormy night and a window was open in the theater room. I shut the door to the room -- leaving my hole and and the window the only way for air to get in or out of the room. To my dismay a strong current of air started blowing through the hole, into the room, and out the window. The wind blowing over the house had apparently created a pressure gradient between the theater room and the other side of the house -- where a window was also open. If the projector had been hooked up to the hole, the wind would have blown through the exhaust of the projector and out the intake, depositing airborne dust on the inside surface of the intake air filter!! The solution might have been to install a filter on the store room side of the hole, but this would have restricted the exhaust flow and given me another filter to clean -- and I don't completely trust filters. Probably doesn't apply to your situation, but it may be worth thinking about.


Jeff